Actually, offset doesn't directly affect brakes. It's all in the design of it. Different designs usually have differing spoke arches. That, in combination with the thickness of the hub from the spoke, affects brake clearance. This is why sometimes, you see topics where a wheel don't clear the brakes even though it has the same offset as stock, typically a wheel set from some older car (civic/integra) to put on the Fit.

On the other hand, if you found a cheap company that made all their wheels at the same face depth, that no matter what the offset, the front of the hub and the spok are in the same position on the rim, then offset would play a role in clearing the brakes. But, its opposite of what you think. The higher the offset, the closer to the "face" of the wheel you get, meaning the spokes and brakes are getting closer together.

50 is similar to stock, because stock is 53. And for clearance issues, 50 is better than 40. Some folks use 205/50/16 tires on stock wheels (+53) and just about clear the suspension, but more importantly stay clear of the fender. I have +43, and i have rubbed a corner of the liner completely flat. A +40 wheel with 205/50/16 should be even worse.

 

Thanks Goobers, that's a big help. I'm glad the brakes are likely a non-issue, considering the wheel designs I like. I also see now I had the offset to face relationship reversed.

Unfortunately, I got an email that the 50 version of the rim is not available, so it's 16x6.5 et +40 only. Doesn't sound good considering you have rubbing with +43 and a 205/50/16. I'm assuming your rub is "livable". Do you think the +40's, but with a 195/45/16 would be close to the same?

Thanks again for helping me understand this stuff.

 

Have you looked at the table in my original post? It lists a variety of combinations and the results...

 

I'm currently running Swifts w/ a stock wheel/tire setup, but I'm in love w/ these wheels:

Drag DR-33: 17X7.54-100/10842

1) I'm pretty new to car mods, but it seems as these should work based on the offset of those w/ 17" rims and Swifts. Would the extra 1/2" width contribute to rubbing?

2) Does it matter what tire size I get? (The people who have posted seem to have a variety of sizes)

3) Are there any lowerish profile tires that can do ok in the winter and still not rub w/ this setup?

Thanks!

 

It's the 7.5" width in combination with the +42 offset that is going to be the problem. Running Swifts gives you a little more clearance than some other springs, but I'm not sure it's enough clearance to prevent tire rubbing with a 7.5" +42 offset wheel.

Yes, a tire's aspect ratio makes a huge difference, as does the roundness/squareness of the tread shoulder. That's why you see different tire brands and sizes listed by users running similar wheel specs. Everyone is trying to figure out the correct math to prevent/minimize rubbing. Some want no rubbing, others only rub at the limits, and some guys make other adjustments (camber, fender rolling, etc.) for looks or performance.

Double check my initial post and study the examples. It should help narrow things down, and explain what offset means as it relates to wheel/tire position in the wheel well.

 

I agree. I have swifts and run 17x7 +42 with 205/40/17 Conti DWS's. I very occasionally rub on the driver's side front. I bought camber bolts, but am holding off on using them as watching my speed on crap roads and avoiding potholes is working so far.

Granted, going with a 195 width would grant some extra clearance, but the 7.5 isn't going to help.

 

Sorry to keep bothering you guys. What about: 17X7 KONIG FEATHER WHEELS 4X100MM ET40 w/ a 195 tire.

If it does rub what can I do to fix it? (roll the fenders, camber kit?)

If it's not possible at all what about: 16X7 KONIG FEATHER WHEELS 4X100/114.3MM ET40?

Thanks for your patience and help.

 

No bother, that's why we troll this forum!

Going with a 195 tire is the best starting point for the lower offsets (lower than +42ET). I think you'd be right on the ragged edge with a +40ET, but again, the 195 series is going to help keep you out of the frequent rubbing zone as long as you're still running stock springs. I can't remember if you're lowered or not, and if so, how much. Since you asked about rolling the fenders or camber kits, I'm guessing that your Fit is not running stock springs.

 

Yeah, running Swifts currently w/ stock wheels and tires (no rub)...thanks for the help. Are you refering to the 16" or 17"?

 

Both. Diameter isn't the problem, it's the +40 offset I would be concerned about. The key is using a 195 tire. I've only had feedback (to add to the list in my original post at the top) from one FF using the +40 offset, and he said it does not rub with the Swifts installed. But that's only one example. I would feel more comfortable making a firm statement if you were considering a +42.

 

I understand why offset matters after doing my homework but wouldn't a 17" diameter bring the wheel closer to the fender...I'm obviously missing something.

 

Aaaahhhh, I see. You're having trouble with the tire sizing as part of the overall circumference (or combined diameter). Here are some links that will help:

Tire size calculator

Tire Size Calculator - tire & wheel plus sizing

That should help answer the rest of your questions. The calculator on the Miata sight is pretty simple and informative.

 

Anybody in here with a AT GE8, Swifts, Stock rims with 205/50/16?

I know rla217 has a MT with no rub but he has a MT.

 

Ok I've used the calculator...forgive me if I'm being slow. Obviously a 17" wheel w/ most 195 tires is going to be a little bigger in diameter than the stock wheel/tire setup. You said diameter is not the problem offset is. So theoretically a 16" 30+ offset wheel would rub but a 17" 45+ offset wouldn't because the 16" would stick out and hit the fender but the 17" even though it's bigger in diameter would stay inside the fender? Is there any danger of the 17" in this situation hitting the top of the wheel well even though it doesn't hit the sides?

Thanks!

 

Now you're catching on. No danger hitting the top of the wheel well with the 17" +45 in your example. If anything, it would actually be with the plastic just inside the top edge of the wheel well, about the 10-11 o'clock and 1-2 o'clock position. If you look up under there, you can see how the splash shield has a couple of weird angles molded into it, and a couple of push-pin clips. Those inward projections are typically what rubs, and over time the heads on the clips get scuffed down. Nothing to worry about. Mine buzzes those spots only on aggressive full compression, or if I hit a dip too fast, and it's only for a blink. If you look at my photo thread you can see that my front tires actually look like they stick out a hair past the fender. The infrequent contact that I experience is so minor that I actually try to guess when it's going to buzz.

Scroll down to the bottom of the photo thread page and look at some of the front fender/wheel shots. It looks as if I would rub all the time during hard cornering, but it doesn't. One of those shots shows the front and rear tires rolling and the suspension really compressed - no buzzing there unless I hit a bump while at speed.

 

So...I've had the Swifts on for a few thousand miles and just noticed the other day while working on the car that one side sits a little lower than the other. (I was sliding a jack under one side then the other.) I measured and the front driver's side sits 1cm lower than the front passenger side and the rear driver's side sits 1/2cm lower than the rear passenger's side.

I called up the shop who installed them and they said they would check them tomorrow. Any ideas on what they/I should look for or what could cause this?

(Still running on stock rims for now)

Thanks for the help!

 

Uh, think about it...

How much do you weigh? Do you ALWAYS have an equal weight on the passenger side?

The simple solution is to simply swap sides.

 

Being the smart-ass that I can be at times, do you REALLY want me to answer your question?

Let's just say spring break-in. They all do it. The only way to eliminate it would be to put an equal weight (to your weight) manikin in the passenger seat at all times that you are in the car. It climbs in with you, and climbs out with you. Oooh, creepy.

 

The manakin I have I keep for personal use so that's a no go...

Sorry guys, this is my first car I've bought on my own and first that I've modded. I'm trying to be super careful with it and keep it running as well as it can as long as it can...hence my concern over minor details.

So if everything looks right upon inspection, just assume that it's my weight on the driver's side that's caused the springs to settle over there?

 

No problem - it's all in fun. At least you're being a good sport about the jabs.

Yes, your springs have settled in. I've never measured the sag on mine since I already know that there's less clearance for my floor jack when I move it to the driver side. I'm about 175lbs. I'm not sure how much that factors in. I drive my Fit really hard since the roads I follow are practically pothole free, so in the 1+ year that I've run the Swifts, I'm sure I've stressed them about as much as you can. Still VERY happy with them.