...the end of winter and the engine spring recall work done. Now, I have no idea how the recall fix can affect mileage, but I do know winter cold here in MN brings the mileage down about 7 mpg. However, since the recall fix coinciding with warmer temps here, I am seeing 11-12 better MPGs!!! Getting about 42 mpg mixed driving right now! (yes, I realize the computer may inflate numbers - but both before and after readings are from the same source).

It also could be the car has finally settled into it's sweet spot for mileage performance too. Whatever it is, loving this, coinciding with the gas price jumps in recent days!!!

 

It could be all those things you mentioned but probably MN has changed back to summer fuel. That would have the greatest impact on fuel mileage.

 

That's what I was thinking. Is there any rule of thumb for when in spring/fall states switch fuels?

 

No "rule of thumb" that I am aware of. Usually the change is mandated by the local or state air polution control people by regulation or statute.

 

wait for the 2nd tank before jumping out of your seat, it maybe just some computer miscalculations.

 

I thought about that but the wife drove it for the 1st tank. I just noticed the jump up for the second tank... so, still good to go there.

 

amazing!!! I get aabout 25 mpg mixed driving lol

 

Seriously, I had weeks during the winter where that was what I got. This recent development seems very unreal to say the least.

 

Same thing in MI. The combo of it warming up and the changeover to summer gasoline makes a huge difference. Just check out my monthly mileage charts on my fuelly page. You can definitely see the winter/summer difference.

 

I have averaged 34.5 per tank since January when I bought my Fit. I have close to 7,000 miles on it now.

I drive a mix of highway and city. If I ride mostly in town I average around 32. If I keep it on the highway and it isn't too hilly I can get 37+.

I compared computer readout to my own mileage/gallons calculations for the first ten or so tank fulls. Most of the time the computer calculations were right on with my own. Once or twice the computer was a mile or two optimistic and once it read a couple miles lower than my calculations.

I find that I get better mileage out of the first half of the tank than the second half. I don't know why that is.

Idling in traffic or at stop lights has a big impact on average mpg.

 

my mention of the computer wasn't to 2nd guess the computer consistency in general, but this one time due to the service.
Since the engine was adjusted, possibly the techs may have also reset the ecu or done other things that lead to miscalculations so it may take 1 tank cycle for it to get back to being consistent.

but glad it's working out for you.

 

I notice a 4-6 mpg difference between 10% ethanol and regular gas. Damn i hate that Ethanol crap

 

being in Iowa, Ive never NOT ran ethanol in mine. I scored 41.8 for the 60 miles to work today.

wind makes a huge diff. It just wont stop blowing here...

 

Are you intimating that ethanol content does not have an effect on fuel economy?

I like ethanol for high boost/high compression engines, but it is the wrong way to go for average passenger cars.

 

 

Wife's Fit has been in the 40's mpg range with about 40K on it...mine with 5k on it is usually 37-39mpg...should I expect better mpg with a few more miles on my Fit?


How many miles until engine is "broken in"?

 

Its the fuel change and warmer temps too. My experience is that mpg goes up until the outside temps get around 85 and then fall again. Probably because extra fuel is needed for knock control and more use of AC.

 

Sounds like you've only had yours during the colder months so that's why your economy is on the lower side compared to your wife's. See what it is like by the time you are at a year. Also next year's winter should be better on economy as you did break-in during the winter months (two strikes against economy) It also could simply just be your driving style vs your wife's. 4-5 weeks ago, I was running in the mid 30's for economy. At this point (more than half way through my "gas week"), the computer is over 42mpg so I'm expecting to see 40-41mpg on this tank unless I have some trips to the nearest (ahem) "city" that I have to take. (we are doing a 175 mile road trip this weekend to Burlington... so we'll see if I gas-up before the usual 1-wk interval.)

I think break-in is usually less than 1K miles. the manual usually says to drive easier for the first XXX miles. That's that's a rough estimate as to when break-in should be complete. With tolerances in manufacturing, break-in should be a lot sooner than "olden days".

~SB

 

Note: This isn't aimed at anyone here in specific, this is just a general sentiment for heavily technical matters that are often misunderstood.. like break-in, fuel economy and oil.
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I hate break-in discussions on public forums. Your engine already had the important bit done before it gets put on the boat.

If you have ever put together a new bottom end or swapped a cam or a whole new valvetrain.. its the first start and run that is critical. Usually the first half hour of run time, and you are supoosed to vary the engine speed as you let it warm up.

Then for a new bottom end you go out and do a few WOT runs back to back while doing a full load engine brake in 3rd gear in between each to force the rings up against the bores.

For a new cam you don't need to engine brake, in fact you want to be on the gas but constantly changing engine speed for that first half hour to keep oil pressure up while the rockers and everything wear-in their new grooves.

For a whole new engine, a combination of both is appropriate.

Inevitably someone will come in here and tell you that either the pistons are coated from Honda means you don't need to break them in or someone else will tell you to baby the engine as per the manual.

The truth is neither is accurate. Why should you listen to me you ask?

Between my personal experience on a several dozen hand-built engines across nearly as many platforms and those of my myriad mentors, the few engines that were babied suffered from lower dynamic compression, less power and worse fuel economy.

Break it in hard and fast with a thick, high-moly/zinc dino juice.

If your engine is going to somehow fail catastrophically from a hard break-in it was going to fail anyways.

Again:
If your engine is going to somehow fail catastrophically from a hard break-in it was going to fail anyways.

Same reason why you see big budget high power/high boost builds broken in at full-tilt on the dyno after initial warm up and some time (usually about half an hour) to wear in at varied engine speed.

I dropped in a VERY high moly and zinc content straight 30w break in oil in the lot at the dealership when I bought my GD3 (not 10w30) and never heard a peep from them about warranty or ruining the engine and this is while I was chatting with both the sales man and the Service Advisor at Muller, HP while we were discussing my plans to boost it when the warranty went up.

The main reason Honda doesn't want you driving hard? Because among other items, the brakes haven't transferred pad material onto the rotors and burnished yet, and they know most people haven't the faintest clue on how to do it. Not too mention multiple hard stops on a public road isn't the safest thing in the world and they definitely don't trust joe commuters discretion on what is safe.

Think it's BS? Then ignore me. Just don't give me a half-baked rebuttal, this is established by several premier builders and tuners.

 

As far as fuel economy:

Every single Fit even between Identical configurations of chassis/engine/running gear whatever, will return different results.

There's theory, and then there is practice. In practice, things enter a grey area that few people seem to appreciate.

The biggest things that will effect the car's economy, oversimplified for general consumption:

Engine health (fluids, seals, rings, plugs, etc.)
Transmission style (AT/MT/CVT)
Transmission health (fluids, bearing races, pre-load, shimming)
Atmospheric conditions (altitude density, humidity, etc.)
Fuel type (intended constituents vs. sediments and condensed water)
Fuel grade
Fuel age
Commute
Driver style
Overall mass
Effective gearing at the ground
Rolling friction from the tires
Aero drag
Etc.