Quest for 40 MPG
#1
04-17-2011, 11:56 AM
Quest for 40 MPG
I've always been nipping at the heels of the magic 40 MPG, but I've never made it. Today's fillup was 38.4 (note: just got the TSB fix on the meter, but it was still optimistic by 1.2 MPG), last before that was 39.3. It's always been like that, never really under 37 or over 39 point something. My Fit has 30K miles and is mostly driven on the freeway, 60-70 MPH on the way to work and 30 to 40, or stop and go if it's bad, on the way home, for 33 miles each way, with some occasional around town errands thrown in. Anyway, I've decided I mean business about getting 40, and started this thread to document my effort. I plan on making the following changes:
1. Drive like a granny. No more fun on the on ramps. I also plan on cutting out aggressive stuff like 3rd gear passes that I barely slot into.
2. Keep below 75 MPH. I know it would be a lot more effective to stay under 65 or so, but man, I dunno if I can cut that. I might make it 70 if it doesn't work out. As it is, I occasionally pop up around 80 if traffic permits.
3. Stop tailgating. In crowded traffic on the way home, I'm always slamming on the brakes, then getting back up to speed, and repeat. If I left a little more cushion I could even it out. We'll see if this works or if people just cut in front of me.
4. Get off the clutch. The way I was taught to drive, you put in the clutch and coast to a light. It's hard to remember to leave it in gear so the injectors shut off.
5. Stop turning on my lights just out of habit. I've read in other threads that the alternator is controlled by the ECU and works dependent on load. This could save a teeny amount of gas during the day.
6. Keep my tires inflated. I checked them today and they were running at 30. So I popped them up to 32 or 33 cold. I don't plan on inflating to max sidewall or anything like that- I'd prefer not to screw with wear and handling characteristics. But I might go up to like 35 and see what happens.
7. Try different oils. My car seems to get the same mileage whether using the quick lube crap or the Valvoline DuraBlend I used 2 weeks ago when I started DIY again. But I'd like to go to Mobil 1 5W20, then see how that compares to M1 0W20. But that's a way off, since I have 100% on the MM right now.
That's about it. I also have a brand new OEM air filter, but it didn't seem to make any difference vs. the old dirty one (note: I put in the filter just before my LMS fix, so it is possible that the valve adjustment had a small negative effect negated by the new filter's positive effect, but I'll never know).
One last thing: unfortunately, I'll be handicapped by always running 10% ethanol, as it's the law here. I'd have to go 2 counties over to get 100% gas, and that would certainly burn more gas than any mileage improvement would save. I'll be interested to see the difference between winter and summer gas, though- if anyone knows when it switches over.
If anyone's interested in this little saga, I'll be checking back in about a week from now, as I just filled up this morning.
1. Drive like a granny. No more fun on the on ramps. I also plan on cutting out aggressive stuff like 3rd gear passes that I barely slot into.
2. Keep below 75 MPH. I know it would be a lot more effective to stay under 65 or so, but man, I dunno if I can cut that. I might make it 70 if it doesn't work out. As it is, I occasionally pop up around 80 if traffic permits.
3. Stop tailgating. In crowded traffic on the way home, I'm always slamming on the brakes, then getting back up to speed, and repeat. If I left a little more cushion I could even it out. We'll see if this works or if people just cut in front of me.
4. Get off the clutch. The way I was taught to drive, you put in the clutch and coast to a light. It's hard to remember to leave it in gear so the injectors shut off.
5. Stop turning on my lights just out of habit. I've read in other threads that the alternator is controlled by the ECU and works dependent on load. This could save a teeny amount of gas during the day.
6. Keep my tires inflated. I checked them today and they were running at 30. So I popped them up to 32 or 33 cold. I don't plan on inflating to max sidewall or anything like that- I'd prefer not to screw with wear and handling characteristics. But I might go up to like 35 and see what happens.
7. Try different oils. My car seems to get the same mileage whether using the quick lube crap or the Valvoline DuraBlend I used 2 weeks ago when I started DIY again. But I'd like to go to Mobil 1 5W20, then see how that compares to M1 0W20. But that's a way off, since I have 100% on the MM right now.
That's about it. I also have a brand new OEM air filter, but it didn't seem to make any difference vs. the old dirty one (note: I put in the filter just before my LMS fix, so it is possible that the valve adjustment had a small negative effect negated by the new filter's positive effect, but I'll never know).
One last thing: unfortunately, I'll be handicapped by always running 10% ethanol, as it's the law here. I'd have to go 2 counties over to get 100% gas, and that would certainly burn more gas than any mileage improvement would save. I'll be interested to see the difference between winter and summer gas, though- if anyone knows when it switches over.
If anyone's interested in this little saga, I'll be checking back in about a week from now, as I just filled up this morning.
#2
04-17-2011, 12:49 PM
Good write-up.
I'll start with the way you're calculating the MPG.
To really know the numbers I would record actual miles and gallons at the pump over three fill-ups.
Reading your post it seems you might already be doing that.
For me the MM read-out is something to watch for a running average.
The MPG you're getting is really quite good for the type driving you're doing.
To break the 40 mark will take a more conservative highway driving style, which you are looking to do.
The next thing would be tire psi. I would bump it to 36 'hot'. I've started doing this and find it a slightly better approach than setting it cold.
To do this I first set it at 36 cold, then after 30min or so on the pike I pull off and bleed them down to 36.
Once set this way you can then check the cold psi and see where you need to go to get that 36 hot pressure. I've found anything over 36 hot will put a negative spin on handling.
Keeping the whole psi range under 36 has minimal effect on tire wear. My stock duns have lost 3/32 in 20K miles.
All your other points are right on the mark and will return a slight improvement as a 'package deal'.
The real killer is that 10% ethanol. Take it out of the fuel and we would all get better MPG, but somehow EPA has decided it's good for air quality.
I still haven't wrapped my head around the logic/science but I'm suspect that other interests are involved.
That's only my codger nature speaking - I really have no understanding except that it kills the MPG's.
I've never been able to break the 40 mark with any consistency. I'm at a nice 38 on summer blends and 35-37 on the winter blends.
Only time I've ever kicked 40 had a lot to do with the driving conditions and 70mph had nothing to do with it, more like under 55 on a drive across southern Florida.
Be interesting to see how this goes for you - here's hoping.
K_C_
I'll start with the way you're calculating the MPG.
To really know the numbers I would record actual miles and gallons at the pump over three fill-ups.
Reading your post it seems you might already be doing that.
For me the MM read-out is something to watch for a running average.
The MPG you're getting is really quite good for the type driving you're doing.
To break the 40 mark will take a more conservative highway driving style, which you are looking to do.
The next thing would be tire psi. I would bump it to 36 'hot'. I've started doing this and find it a slightly better approach than setting it cold.
To do this I first set it at 36 cold, then after 30min or so on the pike I pull off and bleed them down to 36.
Once set this way you can then check the cold psi and see where you need to go to get that 36 hot pressure. I've found anything over 36 hot will put a negative spin on handling.
Keeping the whole psi range under 36 has minimal effect on tire wear. My stock duns have lost 3/32 in 20K miles.
All your other points are right on the mark and will return a slight improvement as a 'package deal'.
The real killer is that 10% ethanol. Take it out of the fuel and we would all get better MPG, but somehow EPA has decided it's good for air quality.
I still haven't wrapped my head around the logic/science but I'm suspect that other interests are involved.
That's only my codger nature speaking - I really have no understanding except that it kills the MPG's.
I've never been able to break the 40 mark with any consistency. I'm at a nice 38 on summer blends and 35-37 on the winter blends.
Only time I've ever kicked 40 had a lot to do with the driving conditions and 70mph had nothing to do with it, more like under 55 on a drive across southern Florida.
Be interesting to see how this goes for you - here's hoping.
K_C_
Last edited by Krimson_Cardnal; 04-17-2011 at 12:51 PM.
#3
04-17-2011, 01:15 PM
Anyway, I've decided I mean business about getting 40, and started this thread to document my effort. I plan on making the following changes.
1. Drive like a granny. No more fun on the on ramps. I also plan on cutting out aggressive stuff like 3rd gear passes that I barely slot into.
1. Drive like a granny. No more fun on the on ramps. I also plan on cutting out aggressive stuff like 3rd gear passes that I barely slot into.
2. Keep below 75 MPH. I know it would be a lot more effective to stay under 65 or so, but man, I dunno if I can cut that. I might make it 70 if it doesn't work out. As it is, I occasionally pop up around 80 if traffic permits.
3. Stop tailgating. In crowded traffic on the way home, I'm always slamming on the brakes, then getting back up to speed, and repeat. If I left a little more cushion I could even it out. We'll see if this works or if people just cut in front of me.
3. Stop tailgating. In crowded traffic on the way home, I'm always slamming on the brakes, then getting back up to speed, and repeat. If I left a little more cushion I could even it out. We'll see if this works or if people just cut in front of me.
4. Get off the clutch. The way I was taught to drive, you put in the clutch and coast to a light. It's hard to remember to leave it in gear so the injectors shut off.
5. Stop turning on my lights just out of habit. I've read in other threads that the alternator is controlled by the ECU and works dependent on load. This could save a teeny amount of gas during the day.
6. Keep my tires inflated. I checked them today and they were running at 30. So I popped them up to 32 or 33 cold. I don't plan on inflating to max sidewall or anything like that- I'd prefer not to screw with wear and handling characteristics. But I might go up to like 35 and see what happens.
OK... so about maintaining constant speed... check this out:
TRAFFIC WAVE EXPERIMENTS
It's amazing to see one of those stop again start again jams in front of you, and see just smooth-flowing traffic behind you. Kinda cool to think "Maybe I stopped someone from getting rear ended by a bimbo on a cell phone today." "Maybe I kept that motorcyclist from lowsiding while panic braking."
Last edited by Occam; 04-17-2011 at 01:21 PM.
#4
04-17-2011, 02:45 PM
Interesting link. I've only read about half of it, as I'm on lunch, but I'm ready to see what happens.
And how dare you question if it's worth it. I'm saving the ding-dang planet while your gas-guzzler Scion tips us constantly closer to catastrophe.
Just kidding. I'm actually doing this just because constantly being so close is really annoying me. I may lose on ramp fun for a while, but I get to play this interesting little MPG game instead.
And how dare you question if it's worth it. I'm saving the ding-dang planet while your gas-guzzler Scion tips us constantly closer to catastrophe.
Just kidding. I'm actually doing this just because constantly being so close is really annoying me. I may lose on ramp fun for a while, but I get to play this interesting little MPG game instead.
#5
04-26-2011, 11:44 AM
40.67 mpg!
Alright, filled up today with 9.696 gal at 394.3 miles for 40.67 MPG! (The onboard meter showed 42.0 so I knew it must be around 40) Felt awesome to make the magic number. It was a basic week of the usual commuting, with a couple of short "town" trips thrown in. As far as the above strategy went:
1. Driving like a granny wasn't TOO bad. I did discover one area in which driving for MPGs makes things more fun- I decided that slowing down much for curves is wasteful. Those posted speeds are just "recommendations" anyway, right?
2. Traffic was pretty good this week, but still usually held me down around 60-65. I had to work on Easter Sunday, and there was very little traffic. I cruised around 75 on the way to work, hitting 77 or so occasionally. The meter dipped .6 MPG in 32 miles!
3. I haven't been tailgating and, remarkably, haven't been cut off much. My speed changes have been smoothed out and reduced a bit but it's not perfect. With practice I believe this can be even more effective.
4. I've been staying off the clutch as possible but realized that, in some situations, like making it to a red light that's a way off, it's probably better to put it in so you coast longer and avoid applying gas.
5. Lights are out in the daytime. I realize the DRLs are on, but these do use less power. Perhaps more importantly, I've been minimizing use of the defroster. It's a bitch to keep turning the knob back and forth, but I hate to have the A/C compressor on.
6. I'll bet not having the tires too low helped. I'm keeping them at stock pressure, though. I thought about it, and it's not worth the extra wear to overinflate, IMO.
7. Not much to say on oil. MM is at 90%. It'll be interesting to see whether my gentler driving nets me longer MM intervals. I've traditionally went about 7500 miles before changing (at 0%).
That's all for this week. Now I'm trying for 41! I think I can get their easily by a.)continuing to hang back and practice keeping a steady speed and b.)changing my "personal speed limit" from 75 down to 70 (shouldn't be too painful. The real speed limit is 55 for my whole commute anyhow).
1. Driving like a granny wasn't TOO bad. I did discover one area in which driving for MPGs makes things more fun- I decided that slowing down much for curves is wasteful. Those posted speeds are just "recommendations" anyway, right?
2. Traffic was pretty good this week, but still usually held me down around 60-65. I had to work on Easter Sunday, and there was very little traffic. I cruised around 75 on the way to work, hitting 77 or so occasionally. The meter dipped .6 MPG in 32 miles!
3. I haven't been tailgating and, remarkably, haven't been cut off much. My speed changes have been smoothed out and reduced a bit but it's not perfect. With practice I believe this can be even more effective.
4. I've been staying off the clutch as possible but realized that, in some situations, like making it to a red light that's a way off, it's probably better to put it in so you coast longer and avoid applying gas.
5. Lights are out in the daytime. I realize the DRLs are on, but these do use less power. Perhaps more importantly, I've been minimizing use of the defroster. It's a bitch to keep turning the knob back and forth, but I hate to have the A/C compressor on.
6. I'll bet not having the tires too low helped. I'm keeping them at stock pressure, though. I thought about it, and it's not worth the extra wear to overinflate, IMO.
7. Not much to say on oil. MM is at 90%. It'll be interesting to see whether my gentler driving nets me longer MM intervals. I've traditionally went about 7500 miles before changing (at 0%).
That's all for this week. Now I'm trying for 41! I think I can get their easily by a.)continuing to hang back and practice keeping a steady speed and b.)changing my "personal speed limit" from 75 down to 70 (shouldn't be too painful. The real speed limit is 55 for my whole commute anyhow).
#6
04-26-2011, 09:20 PM
Great info on this thread. If its damp out and you do not want to use the defrosters open the window a inch. In my past experience with no AC that was the only way the windows did not get fogged.
#7
05-03-2011, 07:57 AM
Holy crap!
Filled up today with 8.973 gallons at 396.5 miles for a mileage of 44.19 MPG!!
A big surprise even though the meter was reading 45.3. Expected it to be off by more. The fuel gauge was still at about 1/8, but I decided to fill rather than really suck it dry (thinking about the long-term health of the fuel pump).
To be true, I did keep my speed at 70 or under (on "fast" days), but I feel like I actually did a slightly better job of driving for MPG (keeping a good cushion, etc.) last time. I've had a tiring week and just didn't feel as if I was concentrating as hard (then again, maybe I'm getting better at it in general). In addition, I had several non-freeway trips on the odo.
I'm thinking we may have switched to summer gas, or the ECU may have adjusted to my more conservative driving style. Or both.
So, at 44 MPG, my 64 mile commute takes 1.45 gallons. At 39, it took 1.64. If I want to fill up before the light comes on- at, say, 1.8 gallons left, I can now do that commute 6 times, vs. a little over 5.6. Since I only get gas at home (too expensive by work), this means that I can now go an extra day before filling up. Heck yeah!
A big surprise even though the meter was reading 45.3. Expected it to be off by more. The fuel gauge was still at about 1/8, but I decided to fill rather than really suck it dry (thinking about the long-term health of the fuel pump).To be true, I did keep my speed at 70 or under (on "fast" days), but I feel like I actually did a slightly better job of driving for MPG (keeping a good cushion, etc.) last time. I've had a tiring week and just didn't feel as if I was concentrating as hard (then again, maybe I'm getting better at it in general). In addition, I had several non-freeway trips on the odo.
I'm thinking we may have switched to summer gas, or the ECU may have adjusted to my more conservative driving style. Or both.
So, at 44 MPG, my 64 mile commute takes 1.45 gallons. At 39, it took 1.64. If I want to fill up before the light comes on- at, say, 1.8 gallons left, I can now do that commute 6 times, vs. a little over 5.6. Since I only get gas at home (too expensive by work), this means that I can now go an extra day before filling up. Heck yeah!
#8
05-30-2011, 11:09 PM
MM doesn't care about your driving style. AFAIK, it's programmed to go down with your miles. You can actually reset it yourself without even getting your oil changed.
#9
05-31-2011, 12:34 AM
The mm oil indicator is based on many engine variables such as temperatures, load, rpm, and more its not a timer its a sophisticated calculation that hondas engineering team as well as other car manufactures have implemented into cars these days
#11
06-01-2011, 07:22 AM
One thing I've found that helps fuel economy. Stay behind another vehicle (not tailgating but using them to create a break in the wind). The FIT is very susceptible to drag/wind resistance so anything you can do to cut down on it will greatly improve economy.
~SB
~SB
#12
06-01-2011, 11:58 AM
Staying behind close enough to make a difference will be dangerously close, unless you're following a semi.
#13
06-11-2011, 10:10 AM
~SB
#14
08-16-2011, 12:40 PM
Reasonable suggestions. I have no trouble getting 40 mpg+.
Opinions:
The thing about onramps & 3rd gear passing: The real enemy is twofold here. 1) the ecu goes from stoichiometric to power rich (around 12.5:1 give or take) at around the 80% throttle mark and 2) usually after your 3rd gear pass, are you slowing down? The mixture transition appears abrupt to me, my right foot, and my ass.
65 mph seems to be the magic number for me - combining current speed trends in my area and reasonable efficiency.
Evening out the traffic flow is MASSIVE. If you're good, this area which is typically a huge bummer for efficiency can really boost your mileage. Much slower. Just keep things steady and loaded in low rpms.
Oil: No magic. Thinner is better for mileage / performance - but offers less protection (all other things being equal) - hence the trend towards lighter weights in recent years. Also, try running a lower oil level. One would presume that the low mark is safe. I run mine a tad above the low mark. The reason? It's less oil for the crank to slosh through (think running through water at the beach). This is real enough that serious race engines use dry sump lube systems which don't store oil in the crankcase. Thing is that wet sump systems (like our stock Fits) rely on splash lubrication for the cylinder walls - so don't go ape with this unless you wanna drop serious coin on Honda's dry sump system (intended for Formula F racing).
Incidentally, I have a 2010 Sport MT. Stock tires. Hell, stock everything. Around 34,000 miles.
Opinions:
The thing about onramps & 3rd gear passing: The real enemy is twofold here. 1) the ecu goes from stoichiometric to power rich (around 12.5:1 give or take) at around the 80% throttle mark and 2) usually after your 3rd gear pass, are you slowing down? The mixture transition appears abrupt to me, my right foot, and my ass.
65 mph seems to be the magic number for me - combining current speed trends in my area and reasonable efficiency.
Evening out the traffic flow is MASSIVE. If you're good, this area which is typically a huge bummer for efficiency can really boost your mileage. Much slower. Just keep things steady and loaded in low rpms.
Oil: No magic. Thinner is better for mileage / performance - but offers less protection (all other things being equal) - hence the trend towards lighter weights in recent years. Also, try running a lower oil level. One would presume that the low mark is safe. I run mine a tad above the low mark. The reason? It's less oil for the crank to slosh through (think running through water at the beach). This is real enough that serious race engines use dry sump lube systems which don't store oil in the crankcase. Thing is that wet sump systems (like our stock Fits) rely on splash lubrication for the cylinder walls - so don't go ape with this unless you wanna drop serious coin on Honda's dry sump system (intended for Formula F racing).
Incidentally, I have a 2010 Sport MT. Stock tires. Hell, stock everything. Around 34,000 miles.
#15
10-11-2011, 04:07 AM
[QUOTE=SaroDude;1023593]
Oil: No magic. Thinner is better for mileage / performance - but offers less protection (all other things being equal) - hence the trend towards lighter weights in recent years. Also, try running a lower oil level. One would presume that the low mark is safe. I run mine a tad above the low mark. The reason? It's less oil for the crank to slosh through (think running through water at the beach). This is real enough that serious race engines use dry sump lube systems which don't store oil in the crankcase. Thing is that wet sump systems (like our stock Fits) rely on splash lubrication for the cylinder walls - so don't go ape with this unless you wanna drop serious coin on Honda's dry sump system (intended for Formula F racing).
Interesting… I have a 2012 Fit Sport M/T
It has about 700 miles on it, just got it last week…..
first fill up got 31, then 32 now I'm indicating 34.. I do a good mix of city HWY and I get E10 out here in SOcal….
I checked my oil level and it is FULL… maybe for break in they fill it up? I'm sure this is contributing to the low MPG as is the new engine… I hope to AVG 40 MPG here in the next couple months…
Oil: No magic. Thinner is better for mileage / performance - but offers less protection (all other things being equal) - hence the trend towards lighter weights in recent years. Also, try running a lower oil level. One would presume that the low mark is safe. I run mine a tad above the low mark. The reason? It's less oil for the crank to slosh through (think running through water at the beach). This is real enough that serious race engines use dry sump lube systems which don't store oil in the crankcase. Thing is that wet sump systems (like our stock Fits) rely on splash lubrication for the cylinder walls - so don't go ape with this unless you wanna drop serious coin on Honda's dry sump system (intended for Formula F racing).
Interesting… I have a 2012 Fit Sport M/T
It has about 700 miles on it, just got it last week…..
first fill up got 31, then 32 now I'm indicating 34.. I do a good mix of city HWY and I get E10 out here in SOcal….
I checked my oil level and it is FULL… maybe for break in they fill it up? I'm sure this is contributing to the low MPG as is the new engine… I hope to AVG 40 MPG here in the next couple months…
#16
10-11-2011, 04:13 AM
Oil should always be full. Be sure to take the factory fill oil full cycle on the Maintenance Minder. Honda prefers it that way to assure proper engine break-in.
Driving style has a whole lot to do with MPG. 36-37 should be easy for you in a few more miles.
Driving style has a whole lot to do with MPG. 36-37 should be easy for you in a few more miles.
#17
10-11-2011, 04:17 AM
And what are you running with after the intial break in oil is changed?
I usually run M1 full synthetic extended performance 15k mile interval because it is less than 30 bucks for 5 qt's and it seems to be the best oil for the money. I have noticed that Honda's tend to burn more oil with M1 perhaps because the oil is thinner… any one else notice that? I had AP2 and GSR b4
#18
10-11-2011, 10:42 AM
Most consider full cycle ends at 15%. It really is of little consequence. It's a reminder to get the oil changed. The astonishing thing to me has been getting used to 9K miles between oil changes.
The two oil changes I've had done were done by Honda - I'm soon due for the third and will be taking it to the dealer again. I'm not obsessed with oils. As long as it's the correct grade and viscosity, what ever the dealer uses. Today's oils all qualify for being very good. There is good reason to run full synthetic and I'll request it this time around.
Search the forum and find endless oil discussions ;-)
The two oil changes I've had done were done by Honda - I'm soon due for the third and will be taking it to the dealer again. I'm not obsessed with oils. As long as it's the correct grade and viscosity, what ever the dealer uses. Today's oils all qualify for being very good. There is good reason to run full synthetic and I'll request it this time around.
Search the forum and find endless oil discussions ;-)
#19
01-21-2012, 03:25 PM
From my experience, driving habits are the king to mpg. You do not have to drive like a "grand mom" (no offense here), but just easy with the gas paddle. Since getting my 09 Fit Base AT, I have developed a habit of not pushing it very hard on off ramp, stop at traffic lights with anticipation of letting go the gas paddle early so that I do not have hard stop on my brake. Once I reach my top speed on the highway, say 70+ mph, I let go the gas paddle a bit to cruise along. Doing all these, I really have an average 38 to 39 mpg around. I would get 40+ mpg if my driving was over 75% highways. I still drive almost as fast as I normally did in the old days, but not pushing as hard as I used to for pickup and stop.