It says on oil cap to use 5w-20 so that is what I'll use.

 

I've been using Napa 5w20 because its made by the same company as valvoline and because I buy napa oil filters (made by Wix) and napa crush washers (because they have that cool rubber ring around the middle for a good seal). So far so good.

I'd be tempted to try 0w20 but I'm not sure if I can use it with my 2007 GD. What could I gain by switching to 0w20? I do a lot of winter driving and it gets down to -15 -20 Celsius in my city. Would 0w20 perform better in these conditions?

 

I said that I would never use 0w20 but I have switched. There is not that much difference and wont effect winter driving unless it is colder than -30 degrees. I also think the lower viscosity of 0w20 allows for longer oil drain intervals too.

 

Using 0w-20 O'Reilly store brand full synthetic oil. 5 bucks and change per quart. Exact same API spec as Mobile 1 0w-20.

Some other things to factor in...

0w-20 is specified for all temperature ranges in the 2012 Fit owner's manual.

Higher weight oils have been know to create trouble codes on variable valve timing cars. Seems the actuators on some cars are driven by engine oil. Toyotas have been mentioned with this issue, although I have not heard any thing about Honda's I-VTEC system.

NASCAR teams now use 0w-5 full synthetic oils. And while the engines are rebuilt after every race, the engines must last though two practice sessions, qualifing, and then typically three or more racing hours at WOT at 9,000 rpm.

 

My 2011 Sport model came with factory recommendation of 0-20. In fact, the oil change place I use didn't even have any the first time I came in

 

0W20 is factory fill on the newer Fit so id think that's what im sticking with. Im probably going to use the 0W20 Toyota Synthetic oil since its cheap and quite highly regarded oil on BITOG

 

Mobil 1 0W-20 Advanced Fuel Economy Full Synthetic Motor Oil - Walmart.com am i aok if i use this...

 

Yes thats what I use

 

If you think 0W-20 is thin, Honda pushed for, and got approved, a new SAE 16, not 16W, 16. 0W-16 is supposed to be Honda factory fill starting some time this year. ILSAC GF-6B (new) will include a 0W-16 specification, along with the corresponding API and ACEA standards.

Here is a Chevron link https://www.oronite.com/pdfs/NOLNarticle.pdf SAE 16 is explained on page 4. Oronite is the Chevron company that makes oil additives for everyone.

And one from Valvoline http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGE&cad=rja

Its the cam area, not the main and rod bearings where you need to be concerned. Its easy to design a bearing to operate on any viscosity. There are even air bearings in some machines. Cam and lifter wear is another story.

 

I happened to run across this thread, and while this is an interesting fact, using NASCAR as a standard for cutting edge tech doesn't make sense. Their philosophy is all about traditional racing which is why they still had carburetors for so long, and no computers. one could go on and on..

Beyond the nascar philosophy, it doesn't make sense for a race car to use a multi-grade oil. They know the operating temp of their vehicle, and therefore can preheat the oil to the expected operating temp. This is what formula1 and other races do.
They are not starting their car in the middle of frozen winter. While the oil is still very exotic, my point is that the oils they use in racing or even other things they do in racing have very little carryover on technologies for your consumer car. This is more and more true as the years go on. It used to be race on sunday, sell on monday; or the tech in racing trickles down to the consumer level. That is not happening anymore as the needs of each diverge.

Along these lines, no racecar uses a standard car battery, cause they don't need cold cranking amps in the middle of winter either.

 

is that oil good?

 

Yep

 

Just use it, it's all good.