My Conversion from Base to Sport Side Trim
#1
04-03-2011 | 08:14 PM
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 102
From: Santa Barbara, CA
My Conversion from Base to Sport Side Trim
To go with my Base to Sport front thread, this thread will detail what I did to put Sport sides on my Base.
The main issue with attaching Sport sides to a Base is that the Base lacks the 16 rectangular holes in the body where the side retaining clips go.
My fairly simple solution is as follow:
Acquire all of the parts needed to convert:
1x1 71800-TF0-J01ZK GARNISH ASSY., R. SIDE SILL *NH578* (TAFFETA WHITE)
1x2 71850-TF0-J01ZK GARNISH ASSY., L. SIDE SILL *NH578* (TAFFETA WHITE)
4x33 91503-SZ3-003 CLIP A, BUMPER
2x36 91513-SLA-003 CLIP, SIDE SILL GARNISH (UPPER)
2x37 91514-SAA-003 CLIP, SIDE SILL GARNISH (UPPER)
14x38 91514-SYP-003 CLIP, SIDE SILL GARNISH (UPPER)
4x39 91514-TF0-003 CLIP, SIDE SILL GARNISH
... or alternatively obtain all the parts from someone who has done a Mugen Side Spoiler install as they will not need these parts. (if you use used parts you will probably want to buy 2 new 91513-SLA-003 as they are adhesive tape backed and 2 of 91514-TF0-003 as the Mugen conversion requires that you re-use 2 of them.).
Modify the mounting hardware:
Drilling square holes is impracticable in this situation, lining them up would be difficult and you only have ~10mm or so of depth available beyond the outer metal body before you hit the inner body. I was first going to try using a rivnut based solution but the ~10mm of depth would be too shallow.
First clip the internal retaining portion of the mounting hardware off (the part that inserts in the square hole). Then sand flush with a sanding block or file, clean the mounting hardware thoroughly and wipe the now flat surface with alcohol.
Next place a layer of 3M VHB acrylic foam tape and cover each of the flat surfaces ... you can probably see where we are going with this...
(From McMaster Carr I used: 3M VHB Foam Tape-Adhesive Both Sides #4936, .025" Thick, 1/2" W X 5 Yards L, Gray)
Next install the modified mounting hardware into the Side trim and remove the adhesive backing.
Next clean the area the hardware will attach to with alcohol thoroughly. Then using the 2 front bolts, and rear body end points as a guide, align the side trim on the body and when it is in position press against the side trim to adhere the side trim... mark the 3 holes on each side of the vehicle so you will know where to drill the body clip holes. Remove side trim by sliding it off. Apply pressure to all side of the mounting hardware to properly set the tape.
Making things secure:
I drilled 6 3/8" holes on the underside of the car where the black plastic clips needed to go into the body then hit the edges with some touch up paint. Now with the tape and these 6 holes it might be enough to hold the sides in place, however I am pretty anal and wanted to used a mechanical fastener. There isn't enough space to put in rivnuts so I opted for pop rivets. I wanted something that wouldn't rust so I chose 1/8" #6 length stainless steel rivets, stainless can be a bit of a b**** to use with hand riveters so I used 1/8" instead of 5/32" or larger rivets. There can be some pull through issues with the stainless because the body metal is quite soft, so you may want to consider zinc plated steel rivets and covering the exposed areas with silicone or similar. You might also want to look into structural rivets to further increase the vibration resistance, you will need steel structural rivets, stainless structural rivets are too strong and will pull through.
After drilling pilots I redrilled 1/8" holes and fit the rivets in their resting places. ( I skipped the first clip on each side because of its different design )
Rivet in place, after all the rivets were in place I sealed the edges of the clips and heads of the rivets with silicone, probably not necessary but I go overboard. Putting silicone on the body paint is a commitment because you aren't going to get it off short of repainting your car!
End Result:
(thanks to TheDancingPill for the side trim and mounting hardware!)
you can see bigger pictures here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/unsped/...7625825986574/
*update*
A quick note about rivets and pulling through: The last rivet i put in (most rearward) pulled through on me ... likely because i was using stainless rivets and the body metal is soft. I was testing everything on another piece of metal but turns out it was much stronger than the body. I replaced the rivet that pulled through with a 5/32 rivet ... I had the bright idea to replace both rearward rivets with 3/16 stainless structural rivets (for vibration security and to match ... did i mention i'm ocd) ... these will pull through your body every time and leave you with a large flared hole in your body!!!
This is how I fixed it: The normal rectangle hole that is in the body is 10x13.2mm which is much larger than any pull through hole. I found where the rectangle cutout for the clip in question would lie, masked it off then using needle files expanded the pull out hole to the full 10x13.2mm size for a regular mounting hole. Now my back 2 clips are using the stock mounting method and use unmodified clips. I may convert more holes over to the standard mounting in the future but for now I'm happy as the rivets seem much more rigid than the stock mounting I will just have to keep an eye on them for loosening due to vibration (avoided with steel structural rivets doh!) and if it become and issue convert the mounts to the stock method via laborious needle filing
(which i do not look forward to due to there only being 9-10mm of space behind the sheet metal for the other locations ... lots of short strokes)
The main issue with attaching Sport sides to a Base is that the Base lacks the 16 rectangular holes in the body where the side retaining clips go.
My fairly simple solution is as follow:
Acquire all of the parts needed to convert:
1x1 71800-TF0-J01ZK GARNISH ASSY., R. SIDE SILL *NH578* (TAFFETA WHITE)
1x2 71850-TF0-J01ZK GARNISH ASSY., L. SIDE SILL *NH578* (TAFFETA WHITE)
4x33 91503-SZ3-003 CLIP A, BUMPER
2x36 91513-SLA-003 CLIP, SIDE SILL GARNISH (UPPER)
2x37 91514-SAA-003 CLIP, SIDE SILL GARNISH (UPPER)
14x38 91514-SYP-003 CLIP, SIDE SILL GARNISH (UPPER)
4x39 91514-TF0-003 CLIP, SIDE SILL GARNISH
... or alternatively obtain all the parts from someone who has done a Mugen Side Spoiler install as they will not need these parts. (if you use used parts you will probably want to buy 2 new 91513-SLA-003 as they are adhesive tape backed and 2 of 91514-TF0-003 as the Mugen conversion requires that you re-use 2 of them.).
Modify the mounting hardware:
Drilling square holes is impracticable in this situation, lining them up would be difficult and you only have ~10mm or so of depth available beyond the outer metal body before you hit the inner body. I was first going to try using a rivnut based solution but the ~10mm of depth would be too shallow.
First clip the internal retaining portion of the mounting hardware off (the part that inserts in the square hole). Then sand flush with a sanding block or file, clean the mounting hardware thoroughly and wipe the now flat surface with alcohol.
Next place a layer of 3M VHB acrylic foam tape and cover each of the flat surfaces ... you can probably see where we are going with this...
(From McMaster Carr I used: 3M VHB Foam Tape-Adhesive Both Sides #4936, .025" Thick, 1/2" W X 5 Yards L, Gray)
Next install the modified mounting hardware into the Side trim and remove the adhesive backing.
Next clean the area the hardware will attach to with alcohol thoroughly. Then using the 2 front bolts, and rear body end points as a guide, align the side trim on the body and when it is in position press against the side trim to adhere the side trim... mark the 3 holes on each side of the vehicle so you will know where to drill the body clip holes. Remove side trim by sliding it off. Apply pressure to all side of the mounting hardware to properly set the tape.
Making things secure:
I drilled 6 3/8" holes on the underside of the car where the black plastic clips needed to go into the body then hit the edges with some touch up paint. Now with the tape and these 6 holes it might be enough to hold the sides in place, however I am pretty anal and wanted to used a mechanical fastener. There isn't enough space to put in rivnuts so I opted for pop rivets. I wanted something that wouldn't rust so I chose 1/8" #6 length stainless steel rivets, stainless can be a bit of a b**** to use with hand riveters so I used 1/8" instead of 5/32" or larger rivets. There can be some pull through issues with the stainless because the body metal is quite soft, so you may want to consider zinc plated steel rivets and covering the exposed areas with silicone or similar. You might also want to look into structural rivets to further increase the vibration resistance, you will need steel structural rivets, stainless structural rivets are too strong and will pull through.
After drilling pilots I redrilled 1/8" holes and fit the rivets in their resting places. ( I skipped the first clip on each side because of its different design )
Rivet in place, after all the rivets were in place I sealed the edges of the clips and heads of the rivets with silicone, probably not necessary but I go overboard. Putting silicone on the body paint is a commitment because you aren't going to get it off short of repainting your car!
End Result:
(thanks to TheDancingPill for the side trim and mounting hardware!)
you can see bigger pictures here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/unsped/...7625825986574/
*update*
A quick note about rivets and pulling through: The last rivet i put in (most rearward) pulled through on me ... likely because i was using stainless rivets and the body metal is soft. I was testing everything on another piece of metal but turns out it was much stronger than the body. I replaced the rivet that pulled through with a 5/32 rivet ... I had the bright idea to replace both rearward rivets with 3/16 stainless structural rivets (for vibration security and to match ... did i mention i'm ocd) ... these will pull through your body every time and leave you with a large flared hole in your body!!!
This is how I fixed it: The normal rectangle hole that is in the body is 10x13.2mm which is much larger than any pull through hole. I found where the rectangle cutout for the clip in question would lie, masked it off then using needle files expanded the pull out hole to the full 10x13.2mm size for a regular mounting hole. Now my back 2 clips are using the stock mounting method and use unmodified clips. I may convert more holes over to the standard mounting in the future but for now I'm happy as the rivets seem much more rigid than the stock mounting I will just have to keep an eye on them for loosening due to vibration (avoided with steel structural rivets doh!) and if it become and issue convert the mounts to the stock method via laborious needle filing
(which i do not look forward to due to there only being 9-10mm of space behind the sheet metal for the other locations ... lots of short strokes)
Last edited by Dr. Unsped; 04-09-2011 at 09:25 PM.
#5
04-10-2011 | 05:59 AM
Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 96
From: San Jose, CA
Impressive. You should've told me ahead of time, I have a Sport AT (purely for the paddle shifters) but I hate all the extra plastic spoilers and such. I would've given you all my plastic sport parts if you could patch up all the holes. =)
#7
04-10-2011 | 10:14 AM
Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 428
From: Harmaston, TX
_
#8
04-10-2011 | 04:49 PM
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 102
From: Santa Barbara, CA
well, i actually had the mugen side spoilers ... and sorta felt that the fit needs to be all sport or all mugen (the sides hang lower than the sport bumper), and i didnt want to go all mugen. so i actually traded my mugen sides for sport sides + cash. also once you consider the cost for all the tabs etc... the mugen sides aren't really much more expensive.
i have also added the center console and map light, so i'm just missing paddle shifters which aren't really my thing, usb audio which everyone complains about, and cruise control ... which i don't tend to use. i may look into a progress rear swaybar and some clazzios but i think im going to keep the mods real light.
i need to make sure and tell them its a base when i drop it off for service so they order the right parts
i have also added the center console and map light, so i'm just missing paddle shifters which aren't really my thing, usb audio which everyone complains about, and cruise control ... which i don't tend to use. i may look into a progress rear swaybar and some clazzios but i think im going to keep the mods real light.
i need to make sure and tell them its a base when i drop it off for service so they order the right parts
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