almost a year now. even drove from LA to SF at that height for WekFest '11 in the rain with no problems.

 

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...o-rubbing.html

yeah this guy is sitting on +45 with 17.75 and his front wheel pretrude a little and this rear is id say like .5 to .2 inches in.. but i still want the back to be same level as fronts

take some picss of your car man i want to see how that looks

 

I am not sure why you are telling me that.. it doesn; change any of what has been explained by others and myself. That graph is a fact of life.

The body of that post was to tell you that upgrading your brakes combined with stiffer and lower than stock suspension will make things far worse than just running stretched, poked and cambered on stock components.

You will have less contact patch and be able to less with it than you would on stock brakes and suspension.

Repeating again.. for what you are intending to do suspension and brake mods will make things worse.

What you think or feel on the subject doesn't really matter to the laws of physics... So do what you like it is your car after all, just make informed and educated choices.

You are entitled to your opinions, you are not entitled to you own "facts"

 

that is so crazyy

i guess its tire pressure and the power of the car...

i'm guessing that civic never made the tires pull the way the sti did in the other picture

 

cool story, your friend is retarded

 

i dont want to sit poke i want to sit flush

i dont need camber kits just cause i dont want to sit poke
even if i do need the camber kits, its going to be like -.2 just to clear the fender or soemthing

so i really hope even without INTENSE research, if i run flush with bigger rims and wheels, that my handling wouldnt be worse

 

so is this thread lol.

/help

 

...
your funny man..

 

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...a-flush-2.html My car is about 2/3 way down the page...

 

niceee do you plan on dropping it at all?

 

Uh.. bigger rims and tires automagically mean hampered handling performance.

The question is "how badly will it jack things up" instead of "if it will jack things up"

Would you rather go for a run wearing cleated low top shoes or steel toe boots?

More unsprung mass with less rubber/road contact added on to a tight suspension equals fail.

You are free to do what you like, and you can guess my opinion but it is your car. Just be aware that this will hurt handling significantly. There is really no way to get around that.

You haven't even considered roll center adjusters or anything like that, you are basically changing every bit of your suspension geometry among other things.

 

I have Eibach ProKits in mind, a nice moderate drop with a progressive spring, some drivers report a better ride in daily use.

 

Wow, 2 of these threads in a week.


edit: I would like to note that I have learned some stuff from this thread despite how retarded it may be. Thank you rhyneba and DSM (and anyone else here who knows what they are talking about)

 

i understand what your trying to say and that your not telling me what to do with my car and i appreciate it alot that your like telling me what's good

but how can you tell me... 215/40 with stiffer suspension is going to handle worse than 175/65 with fairly weak suspension and its like 4 inches higher than the wheel...

lower center of gravity is a plus
the stiffer suspension might cause the car to be too stiff but not to a point where its going to handle worse than stock

and i mean your telling me my stock base fit will handle better than if i had rims and buddy club coilovers? im sure if i took a 90 degree corner at like 40 the stock fit would like flip or something

 

yeah ive had those but i never even put it on just cause it isn't going to drop as low as i might like

 

Car Bibles : The Car Suspension Bible page 4 of 5

This is pretty informative stuff. This particular page supports the fact that "lowered" suspension does typically make your care handle "better"

HOWEVER. when talking about bound/rebound it does mention that TOO stiff a suspension set-up results in loss of contact with the road, and thus loss of traction.

DSM was also right when talking about unsprung mass. And I quote:
"The greater the unsprung weight, the greater the inertia of the suspension, which will be unable to respond as quickly to rapid changes in the road surface."


Obviously most aftermarket upgrades are going to enhance your vehicle. But if you dont set stuff up right, it can be detrimental.

 

yeahh i understand that stiffness can cause contact lost

but to get anotehr opinion in, im not going to set it up where its really super stiff, i am not sure how to tune it yet but maybe some of the people putting it on can help me out after some self research too.

but then im not going to install strut or sway bars so i mean daily driven do you think the car will be safe? or even worse than stock?

 

To chime in..

By the very nature of the fact you want to run "flush," you are going to have to keep it pretty stiff so you don't bottom out because you are going to run it low to get that look. Otherwise, a softer set up will require you to raise the car...and a car with gap and low offset probably isn't the look you are going for.

Proper flush fitment = very stiff ride

From other fitfreaks running buddy clubs, it seems that these are very stiff. So be ready to make that sacrifice for the look.

Your spring rate and damper setting will have far more impact on your ride stiffness than strut and swaybars.

Cheers.

 

 

for real, sacrifice performance for looks, but i its not like the car will have completely no daily driven handling. so i think its worth it, im not on a track racing my car