All Fit with lowering springs chime in please!
#21
and the rear has a solid rear axle so it doesn't camber. your tires will be fine.
and for everyone trying to get an alignment, don't get suckered into paying for a 4 wheel alignment because the rear doesn't have any alignment bolts. so if they're pretending that they're aligning your rear wheels, they're not really aligning anything.
#25
Yes no rear adjustment that we all know but from what doctordoom posted he said that there some play with the front stock bolts that can get you +/- 1 degree without the need for the front aftermarket strut camber bolts.
#26
yup! you won't need any additional parts, like aftermarket camber bolts, to get your front camber within spec after lowering.
and you're right, it's those 2 bolts on the bottom of the strut. aftermarket camber bolts are literally replacement bolts that have a thinner diameter in the middle area, so that you can adjust the angle before you tighten the bolts. there's a little bit of wiggle with the stock bolts that should give you approx. 1 degree of adjustment. (maybe more like 0.8 or so, don't quote me on the exact number lol)
if the suspension is a macpherson strut design (gd3 and ge8 fronts), camber will barely even change from lowering. it's just an inherent result of the design and geometry of these struts
the rear toe goes out of spec on gd3 fits (driver side rear on most, if not all), but it's not bad enough to have any adverse affects as long as you rotate your tires. it might be out on your ge8 also, and if you want, you can get shims to correct it.
and you're right, it's those 2 bolts on the bottom of the strut. aftermarket camber bolts are literally replacement bolts that have a thinner diameter in the middle area, so that you can adjust the angle before you tighten the bolts. there's a little bit of wiggle with the stock bolts that should give you approx. 1 degree of adjustment. (maybe more like 0.8 or so, don't quote me on the exact number lol)
if the suspension is a macpherson strut design (gd3 and ge8 fronts), camber will barely even change from lowering. it's just an inherent result of the design and geometry of these struts
the rear toe goes out of spec on gd3 fits (driver side rear on most, if not all), but it's not bad enough to have any adverse affects as long as you rotate your tires. it might be out on your ge8 also, and if you want, you can get shims to correct it.
Last edited by doctordoom; 03-16-2011 at 05:15 PM.
#27
yup! you won't need any additional parts, like aftermarket camber bolts, to get your front camber within spec after lowering.
and you're right, it's those 2 bolts on the bottom of the strut. aftermarket camber bolts are literally replacement bolts that have a thinner diameter in the middle area, so that you can adjust the angle before you tighten the bolts. there's a little bit of wiggle with the stock bolts that should give you approx. 1 degree of adjustment. (maybe more like 0.8 or so, don't quote me on the exact number lol)
if the suspension is a macpherson strut design (gd3 and ge8 fronts), camber will barely even change from lowering. it's just an inherent result of the design and geometry of these struts
the rear toe goes out of spec on gd3 fits (driver side rear on most, if not all), but it's not bad enough to have any adverse affects as long as you rotate your tires. it might be out on your ge8 also, and if you want, you can get shims to correct it.
and you're right, it's those 2 bolts on the bottom of the strut. aftermarket camber bolts are literally replacement bolts that have a thinner diameter in the middle area, so that you can adjust the angle before you tighten the bolts. there's a little bit of wiggle with the stock bolts that should give you approx. 1 degree of adjustment. (maybe more like 0.8 or so, don't quote me on the exact number lol)
if the suspension is a macpherson strut design (gd3 and ge8 fronts), camber will barely even change from lowering. it's just an inherent result of the design and geometry of these struts
the rear toe goes out of spec on gd3 fits (driver side rear on most, if not all), but it's not bad enough to have any adverse affects as long as you rotate your tires. it might be out on your ge8 also, and if you want, you can get shims to correct it.
Last edited by 07FitSBOM; 03-17-2011 at 10:20 AM.
#29
What are you drop on and have you notice any irregular wear on your RL tires and you happen to know the readout of your F/R alignment before any adjustments.
#30
Last edited by ThEvil0nE; 03-17-2011 at 11:54 AM.
#31
More changes especially the toe only way is to rotate routinely for best tire wears.
#32
You will eat your tires up. Its not the camber that is gonna eat your tires up its the toe. Camber will change up front, but not that bad. However your toe will change drastically. Your fronts now look like this /\. Your tires will make it about 5-8000 miles when you start to notice steel threads on inside edges. Get your front end aligned, only costs $50-$70, but well worth it.
Good spec for fit is -.50 to -1.0 front camber. With stock setting on rear as -1.3 to -1.6.
Good spec for fit is -.50 to -1.0 front camber. With stock setting on rear as -1.3 to -1.6.
...sigh.......good call
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