2nd Generation (GE 08-13) 2nd Generation specific talk and questions here.

All Fit with lowering springs chime in please!

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  #21  
Old 03-15-2011 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by doctordoom
you don't need camber bolts, the front camber will be fine.

we have MacPherson struts in the front - camber isn't affected much by lowering. you can get a little bit of free play and camber adjustment with the stock camber bolts, close to plus/minus 1 degree.
+1

and the rear has a solid rear axle so it doesn't camber. your tires will be fine.

and for everyone trying to get an alignment, don't get suckered into paying for a 4 wheel alignment because the rear doesn't have any alignment bolts. so if they're pretending that they're aligning your rear wheels, they're not really aligning anything.
 
  #22  
Old 03-16-2011 | 06:00 AM
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Wait I thought there no camber adjustment for the front so where is exactly the adjustment at for the front? I' m assuming the two bolts at the struts.
 
  #23  
Old 03-16-2011 | 06:26 AM
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i think you might've read it wrong. there are no camber adjustments for the rear, but there are aftermarket camber bolts to replace the 2 on the strut.
 
  #24  
Old 03-16-2011 | 10:09 AM
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I got the T1Rs on my GD. I took it to the shop to have it aligned. The car definitely needed it.

10,000 miles later on new tires I don't notice any unusual wear
 
  #25  
Old 03-16-2011 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by TGIJoseph
i think you might've read it wrong. there are no camber adjustments for the rear, but there are aftermarket camber bolts to replace the 2 on the strut.
Yes no rear adjustment that we all know but from what doctordoom posted he said that there some play with the front stock bolts that can get you +/- 1 degree without the need for the front aftermarket strut camber bolts.
 
  #26  
Old 03-16-2011 | 05:08 PM
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yup! you won't need any additional parts, like aftermarket camber bolts, to get your front camber within spec after lowering.

and you're right, it's those 2 bolts on the bottom of the strut. aftermarket camber bolts are literally replacement bolts that have a thinner diameter in the middle area, so that you can adjust the angle before you tighten the bolts. there's a little bit of wiggle with the stock bolts that should give you approx. 1 degree of adjustment. (maybe more like 0.8 or so, don't quote me on the exact number lol)

if the suspension is a macpherson strut design (gd3 and ge8 fronts), camber will barely even change from lowering. it's just an inherent result of the design and geometry of these struts

the rear toe goes out of spec on gd3 fits (driver side rear on most, if not all), but it's not bad enough to have any adverse affects as long as you rotate your tires. it might be out on your ge8 also, and if you want, you can get shims to correct it.
 

Last edited by doctordoom; 03-16-2011 at 05:15 PM.
  #27  
Old 03-17-2011 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by doctordoom
yup! you won't need any additional parts, like aftermarket camber bolts, to get your front camber within spec after lowering.

and you're right, it's those 2 bolts on the bottom of the strut. aftermarket camber bolts are literally replacement bolts that have a thinner diameter in the middle area, so that you can adjust the angle before you tighten the bolts. there's a little bit of wiggle with the stock bolts that should give you approx. 1 degree of adjustment. (maybe more like 0.8 or so, don't quote me on the exact number lol)

if the suspension is a macpherson strut design (gd3 and ge8 fronts), camber will barely even change from lowering. it's just an inherent result of the design and geometry of these struts

the rear toe goes out of spec on gd3 fits (driver side rear on most, if not all), but it's not bad enough to have any adverse affects as long as you rotate your tires. it might be out on your ge8 also, and if you want, you can get shims to correct it.
Getting my alignment soon so I guess I just told them to play with the stock strut bolts to even out both front cambers. See when I install the strut I just bolt it down and that was it so now that I knew about there are some play with them and didn't feel like messing with them and adjusting it during an alignment seems to be the ideal way. I was thinking since we can only adjust the front toe I think we can get something like diy toe or camber gauges of some sort and do our own alignment rather paying for an alignment every time and since this is my daily driver, switching back between aftermarket wheels/ tires combos to stock wheels/tires would prolly change the toe because of different set of tires.
 

Last edited by 07FitSBOM; 03-17-2011 at 10:20 AM.
  #28  
Old 03-17-2011 | 10:59 AM
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RL toe on my ge8 is off spec at 0.42 vs 0.01 RR
 
  #29  
Old 03-17-2011 | 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by ThEvil0nE
RL toe on my ge8 is off spec at 0.42 vs 0.01 RR
What are you drop on and have you notice any irregular wear on your RL tires and you happen to know the readout of your F/R alignment before any adjustments.
 
  #30  
Old 03-17-2011 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by 07FitSBOM
What are you drop on and have you notice any irregular wear on your RL tires and you happen to know the readout of your F/R alignment before any adjustments.
I'm on Swift Sport. so far, no signs of irregular wearing as I still drove the new tires 17" tires on Swifts under 2K miles but will surely signs some time soon...

 

Last edited by ThEvil0nE; 03-17-2011 at 11:54 AM.
  #31  
Old 03-17-2011 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ThEvil0nE
I'm on Swift Sport. so far, no signs of irregular wearing as I still drove the new tires 17" tires on Swifts under 2K miles but will surely signs some time soon...

The front is dead on and with the drop of the swift in the rear I didn't expect the toe to change much well I guess the more drop the
More changes especially the toe only way is to rotate routinely for best tire wears.
 
  #32  
Old 03-17-2011 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Bthasht
You will eat your tires up. Its not the camber that is gonna eat your tires up its the toe. Camber will change up front, but not that bad. However your toe will change drastically. Your fronts now look like this /\. Your tires will make it about 5-8000 miles when you start to notice steel threads on inside edges. Get your front end aligned, only costs $50-$70, but well worth it.

Good spec for fit is -.50 to -1.0 front camber. With stock setting on rear as -1.3 to -1.6.
Got my alignment yesterday. I didnt get a printout or anything but I did ask the tech if it was too bad, he just said it was a little off on one corner, the other was fairly bad.

...sigh.......good call
 
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