Alignment Results and A New Discovery
#1
Alignment Results and A New Discovery
I took my friend's 2009 Fit Base to a local independent tire shop for a front brake job and while there, decided to have an alignment performed during the same visit. At the time, the car had nearly 45,000 miles on it and had been driven by many people. As a result, I was quite surprised that the alignment was still near perfect.
Here are the results to the alignment. The shop used a Hunter ProAlign machine, which is a less-sophisticated version of WinAlign system used by many big-name tire shops.
The Fit's suspension setup consists of a simple MacPherson strut setup and a twist-beam rear. More info about the setup can be found here. However, a twist-beam rear suspension means there are no factory adjustments for the rear toe or rear camber.
As shown by the printout, the LR toe as slightly out of range, most likely due to a recent accident in that area. I was lucky that the alignment tech was automatically willing to loosen the rear twist-beam assembly and "wiggle it" in an attempt to try and get the toe back in spec. We loosened and retightened bolts number #8 in this picture:
On the car, it is the bolt with blue paint:
According to the printout, this was enough to get the rear toe to a more acceptable setting. The thrust angle is now also closer to 0-- I will get the exact value soon, but I remember it being very, very close to 0. So, if your rear toe is just slightly out-of-spec, this may be worth a try.
Also, I find it interesting that the front toe was set to 0.05-- which is a slight amount of toe-in. Is this common practice for fwd cars? According to the tech, the main reason why he adjusted the front tie-rods was to center the steering wheel per the Hunter WinToe software. After the adjustment, the steering wheel feels just a hair off center and the car feels a little less stable, but it could just be in my head.
Overall, I think it was a good alignment. Whether or not the alignment was truly needed though, is something I am not sure about. What do you guys think? Any changes you guys would recommend for next time?
Here are the results to the alignment. The shop used a Hunter ProAlign machine, which is a less-sophisticated version of WinAlign system used by many big-name tire shops.
The Fit's suspension setup consists of a simple MacPherson strut setup and a twist-beam rear. More info about the setup can be found here. However, a twist-beam rear suspension means there are no factory adjustments for the rear toe or rear camber.
As shown by the printout, the LR toe as slightly out of range, most likely due to a recent accident in that area. I was lucky that the alignment tech was automatically willing to loosen the rear twist-beam assembly and "wiggle it" in an attempt to try and get the toe back in spec. We loosened and retightened bolts number #8 in this picture:
On the car, it is the bolt with blue paint:
According to the printout, this was enough to get the rear toe to a more acceptable setting. The thrust angle is now also closer to 0-- I will get the exact value soon, but I remember it being very, very close to 0. So, if your rear toe is just slightly out-of-spec, this may be worth a try.
Also, I find it interesting that the front toe was set to 0.05-- which is a slight amount of toe-in. Is this common practice for fwd cars? According to the tech, the main reason why he adjusted the front tie-rods was to center the steering wheel per the Hunter WinToe software. After the adjustment, the steering wheel feels just a hair off center and the car feels a little less stable, but it could just be in my head.
Overall, I think it was a good alignment. Whether or not the alignment was truly needed though, is something I am not sure about. What do you guys think? Any changes you guys would recommend for next time?
#2
With the "after" specs you show, the steering wheel will be slightly off center when driving straight; your front toe is equal at +.05, your rear is not equal side-to-side. If the tech performing the alignment had the wheel perfectly centered when the alignment was done your wheel should be off just enough to steer out of the rear toe. It may feel odd for a bit while the tire shape wears into the new settings, you may find cross-rotating the tires may help the wheel centering and the odd feeling.
FWIW,
B
FWIW,
B
#3
With the "after" specs you show, the steering wheel will be slightly off center when driving straight; your front toe is equal at +.05, your rear is not equal side-to-side. If the tech performing the alignment had the wheel perfectly centered when the alignment was done your wheel should be off just enough to steer out of the rear toe. It may feel odd for a bit while the tire shape wears into the new settings, you may find cross-rotating the tires may help the wheel centering and the odd feeling.
FWIW,
B
FWIW,
B
I don't know if the steering wheel was perfectly centered when the alignment was done. The front toe adjustments were done using the Hunter winalign software so no steering wheel holder was needed, or used. Wouldn't the Hunter software compensate for the state of the rear toe adjustments and make appropriate recommendations for front toe adjustments so that the steering wheel will be straight?
The tech did mention that before the alignment, the steering wheel was slightly off-center though I never noticed it.
#11
I posted my concern about toe problems here: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...-off-help.html
maybe this time a solution can be found... subscribed!!!
maybe this time a solution can be found... subscribed!!!
#13
Sorry it didn't work for you. Did you loosen the bolt on both sides? For me it was enough to give a couple hundredths of a degree which was enough to bring it back into spec.
#15
the rear toe before vs. after you unbolted the rear only changed microscopically
how much of that change is due to the way the sensors were mounted on the wheel, the settling of the rear suspension between readings, deviation of the alignment rack's readings, or a little bump/groove on one of the tires?
i've gotten more variance by just bringing my car into different alignment racks at different shops, or bringing my car into the same shop twice. a change of 0.07 degrees and 0.03 degrees is practically nothing, really.
how much of that change is due to the way the sensors were mounted on the wheel, the settling of the rear suspension between readings, deviation of the alignment rack's readings, or a little bump/groove on one of the tires?
i've gotten more variance by just bringing my car into different alignment racks at different shops, or bringing my car into the same shop twice. a change of 0.07 degrees and 0.03 degrees is practically nothing, really.
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