Got lucky and actially managed to get enough traction on Monday to get a 0-60 number of 7.4 seconds. It would appear that this angered the gods of vtec and boost since they rewarded my efforts with a blizzard of epic proportions. Anyway here we go,

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This pleases me. With a pinch more boost and ditching the stock catback I will be in the 6s soon.

 

nice. congrats.

 

<3<3<3 Can't wait to see the next one!

 

I see new tires in your future.

 

very nice sir, very nice

 

Get some stickier tires. Hankook Ventus RS-3 FTW!

 

25 degree weather will turn nearly any tire into a hockey puck. I just need some spring. Instead I get 20 inches of snow. Only about 1/8 of us showed up for work today. It's okay though, boss man just bought us all pizza and wings for making it.

 

I posted this awhile back...
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...nolicious.html

Scroll to the last post, best 0-60 time I got this fall was 8.4. I think 8.2 seconds would be possible with practice and patience. Eventually I want to get the WR header and a lightweight pulley. That MIGHT get me to 8 flat (or better?)...

 

I've got dynolicious and for some reason, even after calibration, it reads me faster than a stopwatch or camera it keeps saying 6.9-7.0.

Gotta remember, my poor little automatic started it's life going 0-60 in 11seconds and after ihe and injectors and fuel management it was down to 9.9 na. But look at those silky smooth shifts. If you just look at the speedometer you can hardly even tell where the shift points are. Compare that to the videos of the boosted gd3 manuals where it's like the whole car is shuddering with incredible shift shock on every shift (not that it's not good for cheap thrills)


It's fun to tell people about how my car used to be slower than a prius.

 

One or the other could be happening...either the speedo is off (and therefore your stopwatch) by a few % or the iPhone is off by a few %. The truth probably lies somewhere in between.

You think that you'll eventually take your car in for a proper tune? I'm curious to see the results.

 

Absolutely not, I can't stand the idea of letting someone else tune my car. There is something oddly sexy about knowing the survival of your engine is soley up to accuracy of your calculations.

 

Give Lyon another couple months to get his tune and his mods nailed down, he will have a "proper" tune.

The nice things about learning how to tune by yourself and then having a laptop tunable daily driver is that you can dial in an OE quality custom tune by just making tweaks over the course of a couple months once you have the basics down.

First thing is figure out your global fuel settings, like base fuel pressure, injector latency and voltage adjustment tables. Set all timing advance above idle to like 10* tapering off to 0* under load.

Then calibrate the VE table for Vacuum and up to atmospheric pressure.

Dial in your target AFRs on the un-boosted regions of the map.

Then run some rich AFR figure (10.8:1) for the whole boosted section and start to work on finding an AFR curve you car is comfortable with. Then start playing with timing. This will help you get a feel for what you can get away with on whatever control fuel you've chosen.

I usually tune 2* of spark at a time when working on advance, 2psi on boost or around 0.5:1AFR leaner/richer.

It also helps when you do groups of like cells.

The Vertical axis is Manifold pressure in kPa, ~200kPa = 14.7psi boost (1bar)

100kPa = atmospheric pressure, or WOT on an NA engine.

0kPa = 0 inches Hg = -14.7psi gauge pressure

The Horizontal axis is RPM.

The VE table is based on engine load and a well calibrated table will look exactly like the torque curve you would see on a dyno. (That torque curve is how you figure out whether or not a compressor will work well on your car)

Depending on throttle input and turbo/supercharger type you will travel through the table in all sorts of different ways. The lines I added show different throttle input:


You can get a drivable, boost-able tune made usually in a couple hours provided everything is installed and operating properly, faster with a basemap.

If it is a MAF/Karmann system with a Baro/IAT sensor (Hz = mass flow) you can make an all season tune in a week.

Not only that but if you have access to internal ECU information, especially in real-time it makes diagnosis a snap. Also allows you to modify your setup and not worry about booking some dyno time.

I keep looking at going Motec for my GD...

 

@ Lyon[Nightroad] Nice job so far with your turbo setup!

@ DiamondStarMonsters Man you seem to have a wealth of information! I won't be boosting my Fit anytime soon but I will doing research for boosting my 96 Prelude Si. (H23A1) I might have to PM you for some knowledge... I will be taking it to a shop for a proper tune when the install is done.