First Brake Job at 45k
#21
02-26-2011 | 01:11 AM
Best pads?
08 with 60k miles on original pads & rotors. Tech said the pads are down to 1mm, so it's probably time to get some new ones... but not paying the almost $300 for Honda to do it.
No pulsating yet, so I'm going to pad-slap it for now. Next time I'll do new rotors & pads.
But any ideas on the best pads? Probably going with ceramic pads, but don't know the best for the price. Want to stay under $50/set.
No pulsating yet, so I'm going to pad-slap it for now. Next time I'll do new rotors & pads.
But any ideas on the best pads? Probably going with ceramic pads, but don't know the best for the price. Want to stay under $50/set.
#22
02-26-2011 | 02:45 AM
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From: CA
Well if the argument is that it needs to be done on economy cars because it has been widely used in the racing world, then it is pretty weak since the differences are immense. Not to mention that during the race, there is no was to slowly break in the brake pad. I have no doubt that racing technologies are significantly different from the mainstream personal automotive industry. But again, the fit is by far not a performance vehicle, so it does not require performance oriented maintenance and service.
I am going to look at the link posted above, but i just don't see any need for the accelerated, intentional brake pad wear after the brake job. What difference does it make compared to slight use of brakes for the first lets say 250 miles?
Update: I read their instructions for SOME pads. For others they just recommend 500-600 miles od moderate driving without hard braking.
I guess in the end I would follow the brake manufacturers' instructions. If they used material that needs special treatment after installation, then be it.
Still, I say that for the majority of passenger cars, especially auto zone brake pads, there is no need for any special break in procedures... Hence it was never even mentioned at 3 brake/auto repair centers I worked at: Napa, Good Year, and 3 generations family auto repair shop.
I am going to look at the link posted above, but i just don't see any need for the accelerated, intentional brake pad wear after the brake job. What difference does it make compared to slight use of brakes for the first lets say 250 miles?
Update: I read their instructions for SOME pads. For others they just recommend 500-600 miles od moderate driving without hard braking.
I guess in the end I would follow the brake manufacturers' instructions. If they used material that needs special treatment after installation, then be it.
Still, I say that for the majority of passenger cars, especially auto zone brake pads, there is no need for any special break in procedures... Hence it was never even mentioned at 3 brake/auto repair centers I worked at: Napa, Good Year, and 3 generations family auto repair shop.
#23
02-26-2011 | 05:13 AM
Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 192
From: San Diego
08 with 60k miles on original pads & rotors. Tech said the pads are down to 1mm, so it's probably time to get some new ones... but not paying the almost $300 for Honda to do it.
No pulsating yet, so I'm going to pad-slap it for now. Next time I'll do new rotors & pads.
But any ideas on the best pads? Probably going with ceramic pads, but don't know the best for the price. Want to stay under $50/set.
No pulsating yet, so I'm going to pad-slap it for now. Next time I'll do new rotors & pads.
But any ideas on the best pads? Probably going with ceramic pads, but don't know the best for the price. Want to stay under $50/set.
#24
02-26-2011 | 10:13 AM
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,417
From: Capital Distric New York
Yes you can, as long as they're still within spec thickness and in good shape - no problem.
As far as buying them - I've always been happy with these guys: RockAuto Auto Parts
As far as buying them - I've always been happy with these guys: RockAuto Auto Parts
#25
02-26-2011 | 06:14 PM
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,462
From: Vermont
Yes you can, as long as they're still within spec thickness and in good shape - no problem.
As far as buying them - I've always been happy with these guys: RockAuto Auto Parts
As far as buying them - I've always been happy with these guys: RockAuto Auto Parts
That's where I get most all of my auto parts from. Inexpensive and good shipping rates/time.
I actually have a spare set of rotors for the fit already so i'll swap out when it is time. (They are actually my Integra GS-R rotors but when I looked up the part numbers, they're the same as the Fit rotors. Win/Win for me as I thought I was going to take a loss on selling them, now I'll just use them when it is time.)
~SB
#26
02-28-2011 | 03:28 PM
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 670
From: SF Bay Area
So not to disparage your class, but this is not something special that only "Advanced techs" know about (as the people in my class definitely were not the best and brightest).
But it seems the same conclusion of what I learned in class was reached already here, which is that it depends on the brake pad; and to defer to any specific instructions.
Don't make a blanket statement either way:
bedding in a brake that doesn't need it can lead to warped rotors,
Not bedding in a brake that does need it will not stop properly.
For OEM pads, you'd defer to the service manual if there are special instructions. But I still take the positon if nothing is said, no bed-in is needed and use moderate stops rather than agressive ones and you'll be set in a couple hundred miles.
#27
02-28-2011 | 03:41 PM
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,417
From: Capital Distric New York
raytseng levelheaded reply and observation.
Try to wrap your head around this: StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades
K_C_
Try to wrap your head around this: StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades
K_C_
#28
02-28-2011 | 03:56 PM
Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 670
From: SF Bay Area
raytseng levelheaded reply and observation.
Try to wrap your head around this: StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades
K_C_
Try to wrap your head around this: StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades
K_C_
My thoughts on that article is that they are specifically targetting stoptech's or their competitor's equivilant lines of stuff which is high performance stuff ("All high performance after market discs...")
Many OEM rotors have relatively less material, especially for econoboxes, so a bed-in procedure meant for a more massive(heatsinked) or better designed rotor will overheat the econo-rotor and will warp the disc as it cools down, no matter how careful you are with the cooldown procedure.
Last edited by raytseng; 02-28-2011 at 04:04 PM.
#29
02-28-2011 | 04:26 PM
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,417
From: Capital Distric New York
I was looking specifically at this:
The basic myth of rotor warp.
In fact every case of "warped brake disc" that I have investigated, whether on a racing car or a street car, has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. This uneven deposition results in thickness variation (TV) or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures.
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