So, you want to add more boost but you just don't have enough traction off the line. No worries, with this technique you'll get good launches and still be able to crank up the boost without any crazy part throttle foot work.

Step 1: Dial in your scramble boost level.

let's go with 12psi for this excercise. (note the newspaper floormats for ultimate weight reduction(!))





Step 2 - Find a worthy opponent.

As a general rule your boosted fit is still relatively slow, this is okay though. Your car is the equivalent of a female in wrestling. If a mustang gt beats you, nobody gives a shit, but if you beat the mustang, they will be shamed for life. Abuse this advantage and race everyone. Sometimes you will be supprised, like the volvo s70 I beat the other day.

However! Some opponents are better than others. In particular look for cars with 6k-10k PnP HID lights and blacked out tailights. You can safely assume that this person does not have any serious engines modifications because no self respecting tuner would ever do that shit. Show them the wrath of Lord Honda.


You have a guaranteed win against this loser.



Step 3

Once you are at a stoplight with your chosen enemy, remove your MBC from its holster.


If your fit's holster is missing its OEM Manual Boost Controller please contact the dealer to order a replacement under warranty. For some reason alot of dealers forgot to install the MBC durring the delivery inspection.



Step 4-

Race!

As you launch, hold your mbc like so:


Warning, if you drive a manual I guess you're shit out of luck.

Anyway, launch as best you can. With your finger over the exit port your fit will maintain normal boost levels



Step 5 - Unleash ultimate vtec attack !!!!!!!

Release your middle finger once full traction is acheived


(That'll teach that bobcat to f$^# with me HP>TORQUE : FWD>HYDRAULIC AWD)

boost is bled off from the wastegate actuator and your turbo is forced to produce even more boost to open the wastegate.

Epic lulz ensue as you simultaneously flick off you opponent and zoom past him with your manual scramble boost engaged.

 

Too ****in funny.

And yet again, well done! So what's it feel like to have another 35-50wtq at the flick of a finger?

I have some fun stuff for you I found tonight and I am doing some Q&D MSPaint work on the T25 comp. map...



What are your AFRs @ 12psi? I am wondering at what pressure or flow the stock fuel pump and wiring stop keeping up..

 

Okay so I had a nice post arranged and then somehow managed to delete it all.

Anyways here is most of what I wanted to show you..

Actual specs for your T25:
Turbo Size Comparison

A nifty guide for twin turbo 3.0L V6's, which means all the maps are made for only 1.5L of displacement!

So all the work here is done basically, and they are all at comparable VE too!

Turbo Selection

Here is your turbo. V2.1beta:



Compared to a GT28:
http://www.stealth316.com/images/gt28rs-62trim-jlspec.gif

Compared to the 14B I want to lend you (along with a fuel pump to support it!)
http://www.stealth316.com/images/td05h-14b-jlspec.gif

Compared to a GT35!
http://www.stealth316.com/images/gt35-48trim-jlspec.gif

Now all of the above are comparable to a Stock VE L15A:

This is what the 14B for instance looks like on an ideally modifed L15A (100% VE across the rev-range):
http://www.stealth316.com/images/td0...lspec100ve.gif

So you can see that even with a little modification you can quickly exceed the capabilities of even a 14B and start to choke on the turbo!

Your sweet spot on the T25 is going to be about 16-18psi, depending on how much any mods you have done to the engine shift your demand lines to the right. Much beyond that and from what I understand longevity suffers. That threshold is 21-23psi daily on the 14B I never ran it more than 19 routinely.

Your IC core also will effect this, among other notes in the crappy graph I made..

Please not on these last two, that even though it says on the inset 2.972L, each turbo only has 1.48L because this map was originally for a twin turbo Mitsubishi 6G72. So one turbo gets 3cyl worth 1.48L.

All these turbos will spool faster with quicker transient on our engines because they will be getting 4 exhaust pulses each instead of 3. So one explosion every 180* instead every 240*.. way more torque!

**Editing... better map on the way and links because the 316.com links were yanked oops.

 

Thanks! this is much better than the scribbles I made on a napkin when I was making sure that the t25 would work through most of the rev range.

I will be changing turbos. This is for sure. I'm just, tired of dirty work for a while. It's been... refreshing doing 'clean' work like tuning, fmic, etc. I did not water cool this chinese t25 and I have no respect for letting it cool off after shut down. I've already exposed it to overspeed (blew off a coupler and still drove it hard, unfiltered air, yummy!) and compressor surge (bov stuck closed). It will wear out eventually. Once it starts whining like a vacuum cleaner or burning oil I'll be ready to get my hands dirty again.

 

interesting.

You control your boost manually from inside?

 

All it takes is some extra vacuum/boost line or a linkage for your manual boost controller or you can do it electronically.

 

at 12psi I am at ~12.1 prior to 5000 rpms

after 5000 rpms I tuned it to hit about 11.5 as it falls out of the ideal efficency range.

It actually does not feel much faster at all @ 12psi. Probably, no certainly, because I'm still using the stock cat back. In a couple weeks I'm going back to OXBO to have them fab me up a custom 2.25 or 2.5 cat back. I'll have to pick out a muffler and resonator before then.

 

Lol, regarding your ORIGINAL comment, 90% of this is just for laughs. I don't actually use my mbc to scramble boost like this, I will use an electronically operated solenoid to do that. I just noticed what I was doing when I was playing/testing with the mbc when I first put it in and thought it would make a funny thread. In retrospect some technical knowledge is required to see the humor.

 

I think you need one of these!

 

That is all really encouraging for the GE guys actually!

So 52psi base pressure and 12psi boost (64psi over all!) on the stock pump and pump wiring can hold 11.5:1 flat to redline? Not too shabby! And you mention that you also occasionally have hit 16psi or ~250whp worth of air at this time of the year in Illinois without any real issues!

Very cool and valuable!

I may take our last couple posts and put them in your turbo thread for people who are researching if you don't mind!

And definitely go at LEAST 2.5" turbo back exhaust, the spool gains alone (think torque) would be worth it.

Then you have enough exhaust pipe to flow 375-400whp worth of air before you start choking on the exhaust again.

Not sure what your ultimate goals are for the car, but much like when buying bigger injectors... get an exhaust you won't have to upgrade again because they are expensive!


I am also pretty sure your non-segregated downpipe is creating a choke point. But I have been annoying the **** out of you about this for a while now

Also cannot wait to see what you do about a proper wastegate solenoid! Keep it up man!

 

Wait, what's so funny about this idea from a technical standpoint? I would much rather have a very low native boost that preserves my engine reliability, while being able to take it up to 10psi at the touch of a button once my engine was warmed up and revving...