Thats the dino price, 0W-20 syn is $64.44 a case plus shipping ($40.04 to my zip code), $8.71 a quart net. Since ExxonMobil is American Honda's OE oil supplier, the dino is probably very close to Mobil Clean or Exxon Superflo ($2.99 at Pepboys) and the syn to Mobil One ($7.99).

 

What do you mean to add a magnet to OE filters and a magnet drain plug??? Whats the benefit of doing that???

 

Inevitably in any engine there are contaminants as a by-product of operation that wind up in the oil and you want to take them out of circulation as soon as possible so they don't wind up somewhere and cause major headaches down the line.

Even in an aluminum block many parts will be ferrous. So a couple strong magnets, one of the wrap-arounds on the filter canister and another on on the drain plug or near the return galleys or pick-up in the pan can go a long way in longevity.

Many transmission come with them standard in various parts of the trans, and adding one where the drain-plug goes on both the engine and the trans is easy and cheap.

Think of it as a another form of insurance.

 

I fall in the camp that believes synthetic is a better product.
But I simultaneously believe that for most average drivers, if you are attentive to Oil Changes and use a quality Dino Oil that meets manufacturer specifications, you will be fine.

For me? I can afford it, so I had planned to change to full synthetic on my next change.

But now? I don't know if I should change to a full synthetic- 05w-20 or 0w-20? Reading the literature from Honda, sounds like they are moving all models to 0w-20 eventually.

I'm not too worried about voiding the warranty...this year has blasted by, I'm down to 2 years left...and I'm thinking if I use a top quality full synthetic, even if something did happen, I'd have a real good case "if" Honda wanted to deny...

 

Mobil 1 0w20.
When you consider the millions of miles, including over 100,000 of our cars, that racers have raced on Mobil 1, Mobil 1 is as good as any lubrication and better thamn most. If you track for an hour or more you might want to use 5W-30, but we've tracked two hybrids with 0W-20 with nary a difficulty.

Then add a magnet to your OE filters and a rare earth magnet drain plug.
A magnet oil drain plug is worthwhile.

Change your filter at least every other oil change.
Change your oil filter EVERY oil change, about every 6000 miles.
Honda like most manufacturers, prefers to have the oil pressure build up quickly by having a small oil filter depending on owners to change filters more often due to less capacity to hold contaminants filtered.

If you plan to track the car and/or boost it then consider something like Rotella 5w40.
Nonsense. There's no better lubrication than Mobil 1 by lab testing or dynomometer or track results.

 

M1 0w20 is just about perfect for 98% of the Fits on the road, no disagreement about that. Which is why I mentioned that first, and I personally have been using 0w20 (first few changes 5w20) now for a couple years on my GD and RAV4.

It's fantastic stuff.

Some cases call for a different grade of oil. That's all I am saying and it can indeed make a significant impact on wear. I don't feel like getting into an internet fight about this. As you mentioned:

Most of what I have in mind is for the guys making appreciably more than stock cylinder pressure, and maintaining track conditions for extended periods an hour would certainly count, I was thinking more on the order of WOT and high RPM for even as little as 15-20 minutes. All as a preventative measure based on what I have seen in my bearings and those of friends in the last few years. These are in engines like the Fit's with tight tolerances, PTW's, etc. and coated pistons.

And as far as the bearings and bored are concerned in this comparison note that the Rod/Stroke is actually "worse" in my Fit than on my two track motors:

L15A1 Rod/Stroke (137mm/84.5mm) = 1.621

vs.

4G63T Stock size - R/S (150mm/88mm) = 1.705
4G63T w/ 4G64 Rods & +6mm raised wristpins - R/S (156mm/88m) = 1.773

So when I turbo and track my Fit, it will also likely be getting a 5w40. I will be logging pressure at the turbo feed and the OFH so if that is too thick or just doesn't reach the 10psi/1000rpm or the turbo MFG's specs I'll switch till I find something that does.

I have complete confidence in the M1 0w20 for the beating I already gave the car for most of the last ~26k, and I will start to make my decision when I see what the bearings look like when I pop them for the first time.

Every engine has its own quirks. So we shall see.

 

I had a magnet in my 2004 Honda civic and it was always clean. Not sure its worth it for the engine. The picture DSM is from a trans and I though it already comes with a magnetic plug. At least thats what I thought.

 

For me, anything but mobil1 synthetic. I used this in my WRX fron early on and ended up with bad valve seals by 50k. I didn't drive it that hard.

I'm running valvoline synthetic but since I got screwed on the engine guarantee rebate I'll likely go to quaker state synthetic once my stock is depleted.

 

Ive noticed M1 leaks if the car is not driven. I have a van that sat for a year and I started a few times a month but now oil pours out of the valve covers. There was a little leak before but nothing like this.

 

I' have been use Mobil 1 "Synthetic" for all about 20 years now, and for me is the best oil!
i'm a technician! Mobil 1 #1.

 

I was reading through this, trying to get to the comparison chart of different oil brands, when I was surprised by just how "Bible" the "Oil Bible" gets. From page 146:

...I KNOW that many of the readers of this book are viewing pornography, even Christians, and I know that it is eating them up inside and tearing their families apart (even though many may not even know it).

Pornography is EVERYWHERE these days, especially if you have an internet connection
(which makes it nearly anonymous). As men, we can’t help that we are visually stimulated.
That is how God made us, and that tendency, in and of itself, is NOT a sin.
However, our willingness to allow that tendency to draw us into viewing images of naked women who are NOT our wives IS most definitely a sin.

Etc. etc. etc.

 

I'm probably too new here to voice an opinion, but I gotta say I agree that Amsoil is multi-level marketing (Amway-ish) and the people that sell it are very Amway-ish, also. The following isn't my opinion, tho:

I found a way around this. You can use someone who is already a dealer, use their dealer #, and become a "preferred customer."

What this means is you pay $20 a year and get 20-25% off with every purchase thru their website. This way you can order EXACTLY what you want without having to deal with some pushy Amsoil guy selling it out of his garage.

I've been doing this for about 3 years and it's been great. The discount brings the cost more in line with Mobil 1. I'm not saying which is better, just hoping this helps some of you interested in Amsoil but hate the difficulty of availability.

 

I have a membership as well, i can go right to the warehouse here in Orlando to get what I need! I've been running amsoil since the car had about 6k, it now has 23k. I also have the mfactory magnetic oil pan and transmission drain plugs. I have been running the hamp filters as well. I change the oil when the oil life shows 50%. I just ordered the small hamp filters which I believe were intended for the honda insight. Part number: H1540-PFB-515

 

After 9300 miles the maintenance light finally came on. I just stayed with the M1 0W20. I had 2 quarts left and WalMart sells it by the 5qt jug now. I ended up getting the M1 filter. I top off every fillup to the edge of the neck so I know the #'s are accurate. Tires are at 40psi and 80% of my miles are driven on the freeway.

fuel economy
avg 37.38 mpg's
worst 31.98 mpg's
best 44.46 mpg's

distance between fillups
avg distance 367.72 miles
min distance 235 miles
max distance 435 miles

fillup costs
avg $33.76
min $21.66
max $39.51
total $844.02

fuel consumption
smallest 6.26 gallons
largest 11.31 gallons
avg 9.83 gallons
total 245.86 gallons

 

I hate to sound like a dick here, but my Fit will be getting whatever the dealer throws in it.
I mean seriously, a good mineral or cracked hydrocarbon synthetic blend is plenty good for these motors.
You guys are talking about motor oil like the guys in the Porsche forums I used to frequent, except that their motors cost as much as our cars. Seriously guys, its a 125hp or less 1.5 liter economy motor, you can put cheap oil in it and beat on it until the cows come home and its still going to start in the morning and perform flawlessly.
I'm going to go religiously by the meter on the dash telling me when to change it, its only 4 quarts of oil so dealer oil changes will be cheap.

 

Perhaps its because some of us are those Porsche posters. But if you think even for a millisecond that a Porsche engine is any more requiring of better lubrication then you simply don't know enough.
i've rebuilt more than a few Porsche engines as well as a few more Honda engines. There's no difference whatsoever in the lubricants needed.
If you want any kind of quality level its synthetic better than paraffin better than napethenic based lubricabnts. Makes no difference whether its Honda or Porsche or Ferrari on the dyno all will get more power, more mpg, and less engine wear the higher up the oil chain you go.
What oil you use only matters how much you value your engine performance and reliability or how much you can afford. true, all are lubricants but there is a difference in how they lubricate.

 

Hey madsedan, just make sure you tell the dealer you want 5-20. The 2011 uses 0W20 and the dealer charges a lot more for an oil change with 0W20. The dealerships out here charge about $30 for a regular oil change so for a few dollars extra, I would rather just do it myself.

 

My last 2 oil changes have been with Mobil 1 0w20 and its been great! I will say that I used to use the Mobil 1 oil filter but have since switched to the Royal Purple oil filter because its 100% synthetic compared to the Mobil 1 being a blend of synthetic media inside. My first change has the oil going a little over 9k and my recent one was 8,230 miles and it was even cleaner. I see no need to change from Mobil 1 since I've been using it for about 20 years now and with the addition of 0w oils, its even better for mileage and your car's engine

MOBIL 1 FTW!

 

I started using the 0W20 when I had my Hybrid. I remember grabbing all I could at WalMart because it wasn't something they stocked a whole bunch of and it was still cheaper than getting it at the dealership. I wonder if the service departments are going push the 0W20 on the 2011 and newer fits. Will check out at the RP filter. Based on my driving needs, I don't see any reason to change out to anything else other than M1.

 

I agree except the price. Walmart now stocks it in the big jugs. $24.50 for 5 quarts so even after adding tax you're still only $5.30 a quart. That puts an oil change at only $20 for 3.8 quarts. For only $20 I wouldn't even think about putting any other oil in it.

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