What up Fit freaks?! <first post>


Recently purchased black 2010 Fit Sport M/T. loving it-

Clutch pedal...yahhhh. NOT SO MUCH. I refuse to drive automatic, so this is not my first (stick), but after driving this thing for 2 weeks now and feeling like I am 13 again! Seriously- it has GOT to go. Where does it engage/disengage? is shifting smoothly from 1st to 2nd not allowed? Not happy.

I have done my research. (i think)

do I just order the part that is available for the RSX? I read in a lot of other posts that the engine is similar or parts are similar for both. I dunno- Do I order the Civic SI one...? Anyone? anyone? ....Bueller?

thanks-

 

I feel your pain. Good luck in your search. The learning curve is rather steep for me when I go from my mt Honda Element to my mt Fitl

 

I think the only way to get used to the Fit... to FORGET how you used to drive with a previous stick.

For me, it was easy, since I hadn't driven a stick in 5 years (a BMW for 1 day, 5 more years since Amigo on/off and yet 5 more years since Escort consistently). So, I was basically relearning how to drive stick.

Even so, I'm not always pulling a smooth 1-2 shift... but I can ALWAYS do it, while in a turn (seems odd, to me).

Bueller's taking the day off, so it's just us freaks.

 

I know the GD Fits have a clutch delay valve in-line between the master and slave. Several late models from other manufacturers do this as well, and I wouldn't be surprised if the GEs come with one.

By-passing this with some -4AN stainless steel PTFE lines and a couple fittings would give you a more linear and consistent engagement.

Let me see if I can find the PM exchange I had with BlueCell on the matter..

 

"The ClubRSX kit fit perfectly. No surprise Honda used the RSX-style MC in the Fit, as they used the same front brake calipers too. You use the spacer provided, and the stainless-steel braided soft-line as well. The softline replaces the hardline that attaches directly to the MC. I used the pivot-thingie already attached to my OEM clutch MC. I zip-tied the stainless steel line in place so it wouldn't float around."

Club RSX.com: Omni-Power Clutch Master Cylinder: Acura RSX

(sold out) but I think I found one on EBay which has a different part # but it fits the same cars listed on the above mentioned.

here is the install write up also:

DIY Omni-Power Clutch Master Cylinder install in 20 steps with pics - Club RSX Message Board

REALLY want to do this!

 

Here ya go:

[quote=BlueCell]

 

Good find! Not bad at all for $150, I would be curious to see how that changes pedal feel. The delay valve delete would also be worthwhile, and cheap IMHO.

I do want to clarify though that the RSX and the Fit (GE/GD) do not have the same engine or drivetrain, but being Honda it does not surprise me that some parts are compatible!

 

anyone with experience in this matter? Do I save money and just do the Delete job, or should I spend money and change out the cylinder?

Same results either way?

 

I've done a bit of research on this, too, and it appears the CDV is in the master cylinder on the GE. According to Honda's parts diagrams there does appear to be an OEM way of eliminating the CDV. The 2001 Civic uses a virtually identical master cylinder, but it does not have a CDV. Finances have prevented me from purchasing the Civic CM to install in my Fit, but as soon as I can pick one up I'll be sure to let everyone know what I find.

 

Hum... I'll be honest, this seems like a whole lot of work...

The way I see it, many of you are trying to force the car to work to the way you have been doing it in previous cars... instead of trying to see how the car works.

I mean, it's one thing to be able to constantly pull smooth shifts AND then yank the CDV to improve on it... but another to say it's the CDV that's causing you to be unable to pull smooth shifts at all.

Honestly, if a guy that has less than 18 months total time driving manuals in 16 years, with at least 8-9 of those months being 15 years ago, can pull smooth 1-2 shifts... maybe it's not the car.

housemuzik, I can see that you take pride in your time of driving manual and not autos... i'm not telling you to swallow your pride or anything like that, but why not just pretend that you are learning to drive all over again?

Like I mentioned in my earlier post... it had been a while for me, so I didn't have to pretend... I had to learn all over again.
/rant

well, it's your time, effort and/or money.

 

My complaint about the CDV isn't with smooth shifting... thats not an issue here... but it's with the disconnected feel you get from the clutch. I've been driving 4MT & 5MT for 20+ years now and in the winter, have always used a combination of feathering the Clutch & gas to "coax" the car into doing exactly what I want on Snow-covered roads. Realistically, this is done purely by feel and the combination of the CDV & DBW systems hampers this capability. If there were some other feature that would compensate for that I'd probably not be posting but this car (and all cars today) are more "disconnected" from the road than they used to be. In some areas it's safety (DBW) but in other areas (CDV), it's to seemingly make the car easier to drive for he masses.

~SB

 

It's probably because of the limited time I've been driving MTs, but I'll be honest, I don't understand the disconnected feel you are referring to, or rather, I don't know how connected it is you want to feel.

 

Speaking for myself and what I imagine he is referring to is the seemingly inconsistent and non-linear pressure plate manipulation in the Fit..

My Laser with a light flywheel and a ceramic six puck is more "streetable" in that regard.

OP, disregard my post on the CDV, that would pertain to GDs only, as mentioned the CDV is incorporated into the GE's CMC. Sorry

 

Not sure how different the GD is... but I can tell you that I am fairly consistent in my foot "lift-off" on the clutch pedal... and the transmission catches at the same point compared to my foot movement. I won't even attempt to debate it's linear or lack of as you claim, since I know nothing about how it is in typical MTs vs how the Honda engineers might have made it.

During a typical shift change, I push all the way down and my heel lands on the floor. but my foot isn't flat with the pedal, I am pushing the pedal with my toes/ball of foot (like as if you were trying to stand on your toes). Instead of just pulling my whole leg back on the return, I lift just my toes with my heel on the floor. Just as I feel like I'm "lifting" my toes more than pushing (as if you're trying to lift your toes off the ground when standing straight)... the transmission is catching. Many times (with little to no traffic) I check the RPM with slight movement on the gas. If I'm sure it caught, then I lift my whole foot.

I'm sure that for most people it can't be the same procedure because of the different ways we move our legs.

For me, there's an advantage in the travel all the way down and then partly up... in that amount of time, I find the RPM drops just enough for the next gear (since my right foot is moving opposite of my left foot in shift change). I guess its a version of "double-clutching."

Again, it seems to me, more of a case of trying to make the Fit behave like another car, than trying to get accustomed to the Fit.

Unfortunately, my problem is... I'm too aggressive on the gas pedal as I appear to be stripping my tires bald. I take turns at higher than normal speeds and from stop... well, I've never been known to go slowly even in ATs.

 

Coming from someone who has owned mostly all manual cars for about as long, the CDV has got to go. If you park your car and push the clutch in and out next to a wall, like in a garage, you can hear the change in sound as the throwout bearing is engaged, and it's a rather slow dampened effect. It's not a matter of learning to drive it, or appreciate a new design. It's something that is implemented to save Honda money, and make the car harder to break and stall (or something like that.. who knows.) I don't want to mess with mine for warranty reasons for the time being, but I hope someone out there irons out a workable, oem replacement solution, as mentioned.