yip guys.. i have 16k on my fit ... n shes not even 1yr old...

so @ this point - how often i should get my oil change + what kind of oil


btw = i do 2.5k miles per month

 

If you're asking this question, does it mean that you haven't done your first oil change yet?

Plenty of us on the forum believe in just following the maintenance minder and doing the oil change when it hits 15%-0%.

There are plenty still, that believe in the 3k or 5k oil change interval.

I only do about 1.3k a month, had mine (coming up to) 5 months, but had to do my oil change at about 6k. I rode out most of the 15% and hit 0% just on my way to the dealer.

Oh, if you didn't already know about the MM, then I suggest you go to your car soon and press the knob that changes from the trip/odo numbers until you see something about oil and a % indicator.... cause you might be WAY over (maybe).

 

i did my first oil change @ 3.5k miles

2nd- 8k miles

3rd- 12k miles or about

n with 16k ... im about to do another oil change

 

Ahh, ic ic.

Well, in that regard... if it were me, I'd stick tot he MM "schedule" and maybe switch over to synth (no reason why, "just because").

 

I had my first oil change this past Friday. The oil meter went to 15%--mileage was about 8400. The yellow wrench on the dash lit up. Brought it to the dealer--cost me $37--they also did a 40 point inspection. I had already rotated the tires @ 7k miles after a long trip.

 

Why did you do your first change so early?

 

cause like i said " im doing almost 3k miles per month - ... so even though the monitor says 30& oil life , etc...

i felt like my "fit" was asking me for new oil --------- n yip i went to the honda dealer 3x.


i dont wanna go this time , cause i just upgrade my intake --> PRM ... so i know if they c it , they will take my warranty out ...

 

Must be a lot of stop and go driving.

 

Is there something about new Fit owners that causes them to
avoid reading the owners manual at all cost?
Honda puts a special break-in oil in at the factory. The Honda engineers
intend for you to leave it there so it can do its job.
Here, from the owners manual (page 198) about proper break-in.

●
Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid
acceleration.
Avoid hard braking for the first 200
miles (300 km).
Do not change the oil until the
scheduled maintenance time.

Emphasis is mine.

Why on earth would anyone ignore the manual and the MM and change the oil at a time dictated by.. dictated by what? Their Karma? The car "felt like" it wanted the oil changed?

"i know if they (the dealer) c it (modified air intake), they will take my warranty out"

Yeah, and if they find out you didn't follow break-in procedure, they can "take it out" also.

"@ this point - how often i should get my oil change + what kind of oil"

You should get your oil changed when your Fit computer tells you to. If those 16k miles were mostly highway, you are nowhere close to needing your second oil change yet.
After 20+ years of using Shell Rotella T oil I have never
experienced any engine failure or oil burning.

Yeah, yeah, I know Rotella is formulated for diesel use, but the chem engineers say it is great for standard engines because it is so good at keeping particulates in suspension.

However, Mobile One synthetic oil is recommended by Mercedes engineers, and they are a hard group to argue with.

Basically, if you want to keep the car for less than 10 years, I say use
the Rotella.

If you are in a lifetime relationship go with Mobile One.

In either case, the car will wear out before the engine does,
so just follow the MM.

 

I'm almost at 7k miles in 3-1/2 months.. and my oil indicator still says 50%! I'll probably change it around 8-9k miles and switch to synthetic. Then do my sythetic changes every 10-12k miles.

love my fit!

 

10-15K miles or whenever the computer reaches 15%. The computer is well set up to keep track of cold starts, Trip times, operating temperatures, WOT durations, etc. and etc. It keeps track of how you drive.

It DOES NOT measure oil levels, nor does it simply count miles like an odometer. I have seen post on the internet that claim this is the case.

Not true at all.

DO NOT follow the tenants of antique shade-tree "experts" who claim that you should change oil every 1,500 miles or some such.

The last decade has seen great advancement in oil composition, filter quality, metallurgy, and engine computer sophistication. Mercedes has been using a computer to measure oil change intervals for the last 10 or more years, and state that any of their engines using these change intervals and Mobile One synthetic oil will, at 100,000 miles, have closer engine tolerances than any new General Motors Automobile.

My wifes E Class has required changes at between 13,000 to 15,000 miles.

My very experienced mechanic says that we should not have to go into
the engine until around 300,000 miles at which point he will want to inspect the timing chain.

The 1500 mile oil change guys are still living in the 1950's, and are wasting oil by the gallon.

 

You're going to have 4 oil changes by 16K miles? You're not listening to Honda/manual/recommended service intervals, so why would you come on here, ask a bunch of strangers, and listen to them, over Honda?

At exactly one year (365 days of ownership) I had 29,872 miles on my 2009. I just did oil change #4 on this Fit, and its currently around 33,400.

By the time you get to my mileage, you'll have spent over twice as much money on motor oil/filters (way more than that, because I do my own oil changes, and you've been taking your car to Honda). Something to think about.

 

I love Shell Rotella T6. In my race car I use the 20w50 in the summer, and 5w40 in the winter. The Fit sees 0w20 year round.

It also keeps my oil pressure up to spec for my cylinder heads HLA requirements and journal bearing diesel turbo, since I have removed the balance shafts and turned the bearings.

 

syn for cold weather, else any major brand 5w20 oil will suffice, just change the dang oil with something,
I changed mine at 7k miles, here in MI I see temps around -18F in Jan/Feb, so I will go syn for the winter months and switch to dino in spring/summer/fall

 

Do not switch back and forth between synthetic and dino.

Pick one, stick with it.

Especially as your engine gets older. You will blow past seals and create all sorts of problems for yourself in the form of leaks. This goes for gear oils too.

There are other reasons as well if those aren't enough, including the fact that there are different friction modifiers and different concentrations to keep in mind with dino v. syn oils, as well as the dramatically different spectrums for viscosity over a given temperature range as well as different specific heats, different molecule size which affects particle suspension etc. and so on.

So go on and ignore me or tell me I am wrong like so many are prone to do, but this is your investment, and this is one of the easiest things you can do to marginally or significantly extend the life of your investment.

Also, and this too may be controversial for some.. while the computer can gauge the rate of oils decay/wear/fouling to an extent based on the ECU's recorded driver inputs, it is not physically sampling the oil its self as far as I am aware.

For most people, who don't let cars warm up consistently for a couple minutes before driving, who don't treat them well in terms of throttle manipulation and driving behavior both AT and MT, and don't let them idle down to allow cooler oil from the pan to circulate through the cylinder head for a while before shutting down at their destination, etc.

Basically anyone who has frequent brake dust build up on their front wheels... You should observe severe duty service maintenance and schedules for your Fit if you want a hassle free future. This goes for any car, and I have owned many all different makes, shapes and sizes.

Even on synthetic, if you are beyond 7k miles between oil changes, don't be a cheap ass and change the oil.

I don't care if your MM says 60% or 80% for that matter. There is a service life to almost everything on your car, Oil in particular is such a common routine for a reason.

And that is because the high pressure oil films are the only thing that keeps your crank from galling and spinning your mains, the pistons from scalloping the cylinder walls or your con-rods from making windows in the engine block.

This is dependent upon good, clean oil when tolerances are in the tens of thousands of an inch or finer and the particles are often bigger than that after a couple thousand miles..Piston to cylinder wall clearances for a Fit are probably in the neighborhood of 0.0025"-0.0030" for example.If you do not physically drain and inspect your own oil, and I do, you have no idea what is actually going on.

You can probably get away with a 5k interval, though I would not recommend that to most people. I change the oil on all my street vehicles every 3500 miles after initial break in.

I truly believe there will be >250k mile GD Fits, and some in the 300k range, needing perhaps only a couple coil packs, a few valve adjustments, maybe a timing chain and EGR valve to be cleaned/replaced. It just takes a little participation on your part to get there.

 

How much is the "crush washer"? I've never done my own oil change (in 16 years of driving), but have helped my brother on a few occasions. And if the washer is easy to get and swap out as needed, then I might consider it doing it during the warmer months (I'm NOT doing it in winter here!)

 

Your a candidate for synthetic oil. I used Mobil1 in my Honda's but after reading up on oil, I will use regular oil and go by the MM. You drive a lot so synthetic oil will give you piece of mind even though Honda doesn't recommend it. They say you can use it if it has the starburst symbol on the oil bottle. Most of the wear and tare a engine has is at start up and short trips. Because your engine is always at operating temps the oil doesn't get moisture in their to form acids and the new base stocks is synthetic anyways. Just check the level and if no oil is used then it not breaking down and the additive are not being used. Soot would be your only problem and the filter will take most of the bigger particles out. Honda also recommends changing the filter every other oil change but I change the filter every oil change. Honda theory is by time particle filter out at 30 microns then it become more efficient as it gets dirty. Gasolines is cleaner too so less emissions means less dirt in the motor. I would change the oil every 10000 miles with a good name brand of oil and keep an eye on it. All oil and gas by definition is synthetic and you need to check the oil level to see if theres a problem.

 

We will have to agree to disagree on the MM and its bearing on actual oil condition but everything else here is spot on.

 

48k miles on my 2009 after 15.5 months of ownership. I just did my 5th oil change at 47,612. Performed my first change at 7500 miles to switch over to synthetic - been using either Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 and NAPA Gold or Purolator PureOne filters - MM hits 15% typically around the 10k mark for me, and that's when I change it.

 

Its so easy, you'll never take your car to Honda again!

The crush washer is always available at the dealer, they sell it for usually $0.25 cents each (I go and buy like 20 at a time) or you can find them at Autozone/Pepboys etc. When you remove the drain bolt on the oil pan, you'll see the crush washer on the drain bolt (or sometimes it sticks to the oil pan, just tap it and it'll fall off).

When the oil is drained, just put the new crush washer on the oil drain plug, and tighten it down. Don't reuse the old one. You can, if its an emergency, but only once is my recommendation, its a throw-away part.

The crush washer is just a sandwich between the oil drain bolt, and the oil pan.