6months old n 16k miles!!!
#21
11-16-2010, 08:53 PM
The MM is based on engine hours typically 200 hours, I averaged 40mph on scangauge most of the time so when the MM light came on at 7500 miles it would be a zero at 8000. My wife MM light came on at 5500 miles and she does lots of stop and go and idling. Theres probably some other things it checks too, but doesn't have a big bearing over hours. Just for reference They change the oil in my truck every 25000 miles or 600 hours and sometimes longer. I am just saying the oil can easily go to 10000 miles in highway use and as long as you check the oil level and open the oil cap and look for sludge or deposits for oil break down you should be OK. Thats basically what the MM does and oil as I see it. Honda MM is more than adequate for the new oils and gasolines.
#22
11-16-2010, 10:26 PM
Its so easy, you'll never take your car to Honda again!
The crush washer is always available at the dealer, they sell it for usually $0.25 cents each (I go and buy like 20 at a time) or you can find them at Autozone/Pepboys etc. When you remove the drain bolt on the oil pan, you'll see the crush washer on the drain bolt (or sometimes it sticks to the oil pan, just tap it and it'll fall off).
When the oil is drained, just put the new crush washer on the oil drain plug, and tighten it down. Don't reuse the old one. You can, if its an emergency, but only once is my recommendation, its a throw-away part.
The crush washer is just a sandwich between the oil drain bolt, and the oil pan.
The crush washer is always available at the dealer, they sell it for usually $0.25 cents each (I go and buy like 20 at a time) or you can find them at Autozone/Pepboys etc. When you remove the drain bolt on the oil pan, you'll see the crush washer on the drain bolt (or sometimes it sticks to the oil pan, just tap it and it'll fall off).
When the oil is drained, just put the new crush washer on the oil drain plug, and tighten it down. Don't reuse the old one. You can, if its an emergency, but only once is my recommendation, its a throw-away part.
The crush washer is just a sandwich between the oil drain bolt, and the oil pan.
If my next oil change comes up in warm weather and the MM doesn't indicate anything beyond minimal mechnical skills.
#23
11-17-2010, 10:59 AM
Oil changes on this car are seriously the easiest of any car I've ever had. The oil filter is at a perfect 90-degree angle, easily accessible, with nothing at all unobstructing a perfect grip on it by hand. This is relatively rare!
#24
11-18-2010, 03:47 AM
I disagree, I have switched between syn, semi syn and dino in my 00 v6 accord with 200k miles now, does not leak a drop.
where is your proof? different size of the molecule has nothing to do with it.
Pls educate and convince yourself at bobistheoilguy dot com.
where is your proof? different size of the molecule has nothing to do with it.
Pls educate and convince yourself at bobistheoilguy dot com.
Do not switch back and forth between synthetic and dino.
Pick one, stick with it.
Especially as your engine gets older. You will blow past seals and create all sorts of problems for yourself in the form of leaks. This goes for gear oils too.
There are other reasons as well if those aren't enough, including the fact that there are different friction modifiers and different concentrations to keep in mind with dino v. syn oils, as well as the dramatically different spectrums for viscosity over a given temperature range as well as different specific heats, different molecule size which affects particle suspension etc. and so on.
So go on and ignore me or tell me I am wrong like so many are prone to do, but this is your investment, and this is one of the easiest things you can do to marginally or significantly extend the life of your investment.
Also, and this too may be controversial for some.. while the computer can gauge the rate of oils decay/wear/fouling to an extent based on the ECU's recorded driver inputs, it is not physically sampling the oil its self as far as I am aware.
For most people, who don't let cars warm up consistently for a couple minutes before driving, who don't treat them well in terms of throttle manipulation and driving behavior both AT and MT, and don't let them idle down to allow cooler oil from the pan to circulate through the cylinder head for a while before shutting down at their destination, etc.
Basically anyone who has frequent brake dust build up on their front wheels...
You should observe severe duty service maintenance and schedules for your Fit if you want a hassle free future. This goes for any car, and I have owned many all different makes, shapes and sizes.
Even on synthetic, if you are beyond 7k miles between oil changes, don't be a cheap ass and change the oil.
I don't care if your MM says 60% or 80% for that matter. There is a service life to almost everything on your car, Oil in particular is such a common routine for a reason.
And that is because the high pressure oil films are the only thing that keeps your crank from galling and spinning your mains, the pistons from scalloping the cylinder walls or your con-rods from making windows in the engine block.
This is dependent upon good, clean oil when tolerances are in the tens of thousands of an inch or finer and the particles are often bigger than that after a couple thousand miles..Piston to cylinder wall clearances for a Fit are probably in the neighborhood of 0.0025"-0.0030" for example.If you do not physically drain and inspect your own oil, and I do, you have no idea what is actually going on.
You can probably get away with a 5k interval, though I would not recommend that to most people. I change the oil on all my street vehicles every 3500 miles after initial break in.
I truly believe there will be >250k mile GD Fits, and some in the 300k range, needing perhaps only a couple coil packs, a few valve adjustments, maybe a timing chain and EGR valve to be cleaned/replaced. It just takes a little participation on your part to get there.
Pick one, stick with it.
Especially as your engine gets older. You will blow past seals and create all sorts of problems for yourself in the form of leaks. This goes for gear oils too.
There are other reasons as well if those aren't enough, including the fact that there are different friction modifiers and different concentrations to keep in mind with dino v. syn oils, as well as the dramatically different spectrums for viscosity over a given temperature range as well as different specific heats, different molecule size which affects particle suspension etc. and so on.
So go on and ignore me or tell me I am wrong like so many are prone to do, but this is your investment, and this is one of the easiest things you can do to marginally or significantly extend the life of your investment.
Also, and this too may be controversial for some.. while the computer can gauge the rate of oils decay/wear/fouling to an extent based on the ECU's recorded driver inputs, it is not physically sampling the oil its self as far as I am aware.
For most people, who don't let cars warm up consistently for a couple minutes before driving, who don't treat them well in terms of throttle manipulation and driving behavior both AT and MT, and don't let them idle down to allow cooler oil from the pan to circulate through the cylinder head for a while before shutting down at their destination, etc.
Basically anyone who has frequent brake dust build up on their front wheels...
You should observe severe duty service maintenance and schedules for your Fit if you want a hassle free future. This goes for any car, and I have owned many all different makes, shapes and sizes.Even on synthetic, if you are beyond 7k miles between oil changes, don't be a cheap ass and change the oil.
I don't care if your MM says 60% or 80% for that matter. There is a service life to almost everything on your car, Oil in particular is such a common routine for a reason.
And that is because the high pressure oil films are the only thing that keeps your crank from galling and spinning your mains, the pistons from scalloping the cylinder walls or your con-rods from making windows in the engine block.
This is dependent upon good, clean oil when tolerances are in the tens of thousands of an inch or finer and the particles are often bigger than that after a couple thousand miles..Piston to cylinder wall clearances for a Fit are probably in the neighborhood of 0.0025"-0.0030" for example.If you do not physically drain and inspect your own oil, and I do, you have no idea what is actually going on.
You can probably get away with a 5k interval, though I would not recommend that to most people. I change the oil on all my street vehicles every 3500 miles after initial break in.
I truly believe there will be >250k mile GD Fits, and some in the 300k range, needing perhaps only a couple coil packs, a few valve adjustments, maybe a timing chain and EGR valve to be cleaned/replaced. It just takes a little participation on your part to get there.
#25
11-18-2010, 04:25 AM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 4,428
I am quite familiar with bobistheoilguy, fantastic site. My education and experience are up to par thank you, and with that I leave you this from Dr. Ali E. Haas, PhD.:
FerrariChat.com - FAQ: Motor Oil Articles by Dr. Ali E. Haas (AEHaas)
and more reference material:
Oil Data Sheets
It is a general rule to follow. Yes there are synthetic/mineral blends, they have appropriate applications, but constantly changing what oil your engine sees is a bad idea. Brand to brand there are discreet differences which matter.
I am glad your accord doesn't leak though.
No sarcasm or snark. Have you been alternating dino/synth it's whole life?
#26
11-18-2010, 08:39 PM
I have to agree with DSM, If you put synthetic oil in your car you should use the same oil all the time. From past experiences, I seen the gaskets leak and it not pretty and costs a lot in oil replacement and for gaskets when changing back and forth. Here is more info on oil The Motor Oil Evaluator | Basestocks
#27
11-18-2010, 09:21 PM
Why would a person want to switch back and forth (or even potentially mix in a single fill) in the first place?
I don't know anything about gasket leaks and all that. It just seems to me that switching back and forth creates a variable that "could" cause problems. Who needs that? Just pick one and go.
I know there are facts out there, but for me, facts or not, what's the point?
I don't know anything about gasket leaks and all that. It just seems to me that switching back and forth creates a variable that "could" cause problems. Who needs that? Just pick one and go.
I know there are facts out there, but for me, facts or not, what's the point?
#28
11-18-2010, 09:48 PM
The van I have had M1 and what every the dealer put in changed every 3000 miles, When I bought it from my father in law I used M1 for years. When Katrina came through Texas it damaged the plant that produced M1. The only synthetic I could get was Syn tech so I used it and it not as good as M1. Then I started to have problems. Adding a quart every 1000 miles. So I went to the cheapest synthetic supertech(which is quaker-state) and all gaskets leak now. The van runs great no other problems motor wise.
I would not change regular oil brands either for the same reason. Synthetic oil will last up to 30000 miles if its filtered right. I am not sold on synthetics anymore because it gets just as dirty as regular oil and unless you have a turbo its not needed.
Went to the race track this summer and they had a synthetic oil leak and took an hour to clean up. They came over the P/A and said synthetics are hard to clean up they burn and scrap and still never get it all up. In an engine it can cause the rings not to seal and eventually have lots of blow-by which is oil burning and lost of compression. So my mind is changing about synthetics. Theres a need for it but its over sold and people dont get the benefits of extended oil changes anyways.
I would not change regular oil brands either for the same reason. Synthetic oil will last up to 30000 miles if its filtered right. I am not sold on synthetics anymore because it gets just as dirty as regular oil and unless you have a turbo its not needed.
Went to the race track this summer and they had a synthetic oil leak and took an hour to clean up. They came over the P/A and said synthetics are hard to clean up they burn and scrap and still never get it all up. In an engine it can cause the rings not to seal and eventually have lots of blow-by which is oil burning and lost of compression. So my mind is changing about synthetics. Theres a need for it but its over sold and people dont get the benefits of extended oil changes anyways.
Last edited by SilverBullet; 11-18-2010 at 09:50 PM.
#29
11-19-2010, 12:46 AM
I just got my fit in Aug this year and my dealership is offering me free 1st oil change. they actually told me that it's better for the car if I stay with the honda motor oil for the 1st oil change for proper break in or something but I would already have 84k miles on the car why does it still need to break in? its just so weird I don't understand why, b/c I really want to switch to a syntheic oil (right now I am thinking royal purple) what do you guys think?
#30
11-19-2010, 01:32 AM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 4,428
I just got my fit in Aug this year and my dealership is offering me free 1st oil change. they actually told me that it's better for the car if I stay with the honda motor oil for the 1st oil change for proper break in or something but I would already have 84k miles on the car why does it still need to break in? its just so weird I don't understand why, b/c I really want to switch to a syntheic oil (right now I am thinking royal purple) what do you guys think?
You bought the car with 84000 miles and they are telling you it not only still needs to be broken in, but it is still on the original oil?
Does it have a new engine for some reason? Flood/Salvage?
#31
11-19-2010, 01:36 AM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 4,428
The van I have had M1 and what every the dealer put in changed every 3000 miles, When I bought it from my father in law I used M1 for years. When Katrina came through Texas it damaged the plant that produced M1. The only synthetic I could get was Syn tech so I used it and it not as good as M1. Then I started to have problems. Adding a quart every 1000 miles. So I went to the cheapest synthetic supertech(which is quaker-state) and all gaskets leak now. The van runs great no other problems motor wise.
I would not change regular oil brands either for the same reason. Synthetic oil will last up to 30000 miles if its filtered right. I am not sold on synthetics anymore because it gets just as dirty as regular oil and unless you have a turbo its not needed.
Went to the race track this summer and they had a synthetic oil leak and took an hour to clean up. They came over the P/A and said synthetics are hard to clean up they burn and scrap and still never get it all up. In an engine it can cause the rings not to seal and eventually have lots of blow-by which is oil burning and lost of compression. So my mind is changing about synthetics. Theres a need for it but its over sold and people dont get the benefits of extended oil changes anyways.
I would not change regular oil brands either for the same reason. Synthetic oil will last up to 30000 miles if its filtered right. I am not sold on synthetics anymore because it gets just as dirty as regular oil and unless you have a turbo its not needed.
Went to the race track this summer and they had a synthetic oil leak and took an hour to clean up. They came over the P/A and said synthetics are hard to clean up they burn and scrap and still never get it all up. In an engine it can cause the rings not to seal and eventually have lots of blow-by which is oil burning and lost of compression. So my mind is changing about synthetics. Theres a need for it but its over sold and people dont get the benefits of extended oil changes anyways.
A thicker weight synthetic tike 5w30 or 15w40 would probably take care of some of the leaks if not most, or a permanent switch back to a 10w30 dino oil.
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; 11-19-2010 at 01:39 AM.
#32
11-19-2010, 03:55 PM
Sounds like you have read more than moi, pls quote us where Dr Haas says mixing dino with syn is bad and switching oil - brand/type is bad?
When I mentioned bobisthe site, I did not have Dr Haas and his $250k pretty boy cars in mind but dozens of other average joes with corollas, hondas who buy whatever oil is on sale (like me) and use it with outstanding results and NO LEAKS ;-)
tough little 01 corolla - Bob Is The Oil Guy.
tough little 01 corolla - Bob Is The Oil Guy
if you read the post from "bill in utah" he uses dino mostly but put in syn...yada.
there are many posts out there where users have confirmed oil leaks going away with syn oil.
Yes sir, I put in whatever I have handy in the sump, synpower, M1, shell dino. I do the SAME to my Chevy Dmax, M1 Delvac in winter and Delvac Dino in summer or Rotella.
Oil is Oil,
but in cold temp, pour point matters, hence I preference for syns in winter, I don't LET my vehicles warm up, I start it up and get situated and take-off slowly and not punish the engine till it reaches temp.
The main aim of having oil in your sump is to lubricate the engine and NOT prevent leaks. So going with a thicker oil you are risking excess wear, once again in cold temp.
I have switched from dino to syn back and forth on the following vehicles and NO LEAKS at all.
So you draw your own conclusions
sienna 06 - 5w30, syn, dino - 5k OCI - no leaks @ 80k miles
ridgeline 07 - 5w20, syn, dino - 6 to 9 month OCI - no leaks @16k miles
dmax 08 - 5w40/15w40, syn, dino - 4 OCIs till now, 5k OCI in future - no leaks @8k miles
accord 00 v6 - 5w30, syn, dino - 4k to 5k oci @ 200k miles no leaks
same for my honda ohv chinese copy lawn mower, no leaks
I have to go now and change diapers, so if you have time pls do the research and educate us. Thanks,
When I mentioned bobisthe site, I did not have Dr Haas and his $250k pretty boy cars in mind but dozens of other average joes with corollas, hondas who buy whatever oil is on sale (like me) and use it with outstanding results and NO LEAKS ;-)
tough little 01 corolla - Bob Is The Oil Guy.
tough little 01 corolla - Bob Is The Oil Guy
if you read the post from "bill in utah" he uses dino mostly but put in syn...yada.
there are many posts out there where users have confirmed oil leaks going away with syn oil.
Yes sir, I put in whatever I have handy in the sump, synpower, M1, shell dino. I do the SAME to my Chevy Dmax, M1 Delvac in winter and Delvac Dino in summer or Rotella.
Oil is Oil,
but in cold temp, pour point matters, hence I preference for syns in winter, I don't LET my vehicles warm up, I start it up and get situated and take-off slowly and not punish the engine till it reaches temp.
The main aim of having oil in your sump is to lubricate the engine and NOT prevent leaks. So going with a thicker oil you are risking excess wear, once again in cold temp.
I have switched from dino to syn back and forth on the following vehicles and NO LEAKS at all.
So you draw your own conclusions
sienna 06 - 5w30, syn, dino - 5k OCI - no leaks @ 80k miles
ridgeline 07 - 5w20, syn, dino - 6 to 9 month OCI - no leaks @16k miles
dmax 08 - 5w40/15w40, syn, dino - 4 OCIs till now, 5k OCI in future - no leaks @8k miles
accord 00 v6 - 5w30, syn, dino - 4k to 5k oci @ 200k miles no leaks
same for my honda ohv chinese copy lawn mower, no leaks
I have to go now and change diapers, so if you have time pls do the research and educate us. Thanks,
The plural of anecdote is not data. One data point is not a trend.
I am quite familiar with bobistheoilguy, fantastic site. My education and experience are up to par thank you, and with that I leave you this from Dr. Ali E. Haas, PhD.:
FerrariChat.com - FAQ: Motor Oil Articles by Dr. Ali E. Haas (AEHaas)
and more reference material:
Oil Data Sheets
It is a general rule to follow. Yes there are synthetic/mineral blends, they have appropriate applications, but constantly changing what oil your engine sees is a bad idea. Brand to brand there are discreet differences which matter.
I am glad your accord doesn't leak though. No sarcasm or snark.
Have you been alternating dino/synth it's whole life?
I am quite familiar with bobistheoilguy, fantastic site. My education and experience are up to par thank you, and with that I leave you this from Dr. Ali E. Haas, PhD.:
FerrariChat.com - FAQ: Motor Oil Articles by Dr. Ali E. Haas (AEHaas)
and more reference material:
Oil Data Sheets
It is a general rule to follow. Yes there are synthetic/mineral blends, they have appropriate applications, but constantly changing what oil your engine sees is a bad idea. Brand to brand there are discreet differences which matter.
I am glad your accord doesn't leak though.
No sarcasm or snark. Have you been alternating dino/synth it's whole life?
#33
11-19-2010, 04:08 PM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 4,428
For the same reasons I cited, there are distinct discreet differences between grades and manufacturers, and especially when you are going to switch between syn/mineral.
As another posted pointed out, it is adding untold variables to the equation.
You admit to routinely not letting the engine warm up, and then suggest that thicker oil is the culprit for engine wear? You are right in the sense that the thicker oil on cold start is not good for the engine.. which is why you should use the thinnest you can get away with that will still meet your engines oil pressure/fil surface requirements. Usually to the tune of ~10psi/1000rpm. But starting and warm up procedure are crucial to engine life, as is driving slowly while the oil and coolant get up to temp. Those water block sandwiches many OEs put on the oil filter housings are to help speed up the process of bring the oil up to ~250F.
Idling before shut down is also key, and even more crucial in turbo cars, to avoid oil coking in passageways and on bearings.
Also, having leaks go away when switching to synth is usually opposite of what occurs, but if you went to a thicker synth that would likely create such a scenario.
As another posted pointed out, it is adding untold variables to the equation.
You admit to routinely not letting the engine warm up, and then suggest that thicker oil is the culprit for engine wear? You are right in the sense that the thicker oil on cold start is not good for the engine.. which is why you should use the thinnest you can get away with that will still meet your engines oil pressure/fil surface requirements. Usually to the tune of ~10psi/1000rpm. But starting and warm up procedure are crucial to engine life, as is driving slowly while the oil and coolant get up to temp. Those water block sandwiches many OEs put on the oil filter housings are to help speed up the process of bring the oil up to ~250F.
Idling before shut down is also key, and even more crucial in turbo cars, to avoid oil coking in passageways and on bearings.
Also, having leaks go away when switching to synth is usually opposite of what occurs, but if you went to a thicker synth that would likely create such a scenario.
#34
11-19-2010, 04:33 PM
Like you, I drive a lot. I'm averaging about 25K miles per year. I've had my GE8 for 2 years, 1 month and 8 days. I'm close to hitting the 54K mark on the odometer. I change my oil/filter every 3K miles and change my AT fluid every 10K. I don't rely on the MM at all.
#35
11-19-2010, 11:18 PM
I use M1 10w30 in the van, Every one has there personal experiences and situations and are different from car to car and oil to oil. I used M1 in all my Honda's and after reading up on the subject there is no real benefit in the long run. I am getting around 40 mpg with regular motor oil. With the low sulfur fuels and better oil base stocks and aluminum blocks the oil will last longer and if the oil level drops then theres a reason. Fuel has more of a bearing on how long the oil lasts. The more gas used means more combustion by products in the oil.
#36
11-20-2010, 01:48 PM
54,000/3,000= 18 oil changes.
54,000/~8,000= 6.75 oil changes.
Lets say you buy Mobil 1 5w20, and it cost $5 a quart straight (under-estimate), and you get a $6 filter. Each oil change costs $26.
You spend $468 to do all the oil changes up to 54K.
Everyone who's going by the maintenance minder spends $175.5, to get to the same 54K miles on their odometer.
The numbers will be much more when you factor in real world prices for these items, sales tax, and god forbid not doing your own oil changes.
It's not B18C5 with hand-torqued rod-bolts, and its not a K20 in a DC5R race car. We're talking daily driven 1.5L L15A powered Fits.
I also drive a lot [29,000 miles a year], and I've spent less than half the amount of cash on oil, that you have:
Lets not forget about the waste-oil. You're also producing more than twice the amount of waste, as those going by the maintenance minder.
#38
11-20-2010, 05:25 PM
I usually run the defroster so the engine fan cycles then shut it down. AC is the same thing but the defroster usually cycles more than the AC. I do the same thing in my semi to bring down engine temps before shutting it down too. You dont want to idle too long to cool down injectors for heat soaking issues. I also turn off all accessories so there is no load memory in the battery.
Last edited by SilverBullet; 11-20-2010 at 05:42 PM.
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