200-250 dollars to get it repaired... iam going to go ahead and either order a new one off of ebay OR get it from honda.. which would be like 400-500~bux

EDIT.. man i got not much of a choice here.. if i order it from ebay it will take forever to get here.. iam going to go ahead and just go to honda and bit the bullet.. this sucks because i plan on getting all new 4 rims someday... but i need to use the car ALOT and to get to work and all this crap...

 

Price for an OEM rim is $349.19 from College Hill Honda and $377.70 from Bernardi Parts. The part number is 42700-TK6-A91.

 

Here's a way to justify new wheels... Get lighter weight wheels and you'll save on fuel - it's an economical choice.

there are some "inexpensive" wheels out there that might meet you needs. The Drag DR31's are nice in white and are 16.7 lbs for the 16" wheels. mated to some Hankook Ventus wheels and you are in for $771 with $115 back in rebates (so it's $656) This is from Discounttiredirect.com

~SB

 

i just went ahead and called the honda dealership here and let them order it, the tire is like 111bux, so total its going to cost me a little over 500bux... kinda a rip off IMO... but it seems like theres no other way to get this done in a reasonable time other then to pay out the ass...

it just sucks i need the car soon so i can travel like 100 miles a day for school and work purposes... right now iam taking like a 2 day break.. which is kinda a bit.. especially how i just started this job.. and it didn't feel too good calling in telling them that my car is down for several days and i can't get back to work for a few days.

if this happened during the summer or maybe during a time when iam going to school ONLY and not working, i think i would have just bought me a set of all bronze rims, but the older i get the more responsibilities i have to hold myself up too, and i just can't wait for a week or so to get a good price on some OEMs or aftermark rims. and plus if i did rims i think i would have gone ahead and lowered the car as well.. and if i lowered the car, i might as well get some new struts and shocks... just too much stuff to nock out at one time that i currently don't have time for =(

thanks for all of your help guys... i wanted to save myself some money but i don't think i got that much of an option.. looks like the honda dealership +1 on me on this one...

 

ouch...$500+ for ONE wheel and a tire

You could have bought a complete wheelset and tires for about $150 more. You don't have to lower it I don't understand that logic. Exactly what was posted above about discount tire direct....they could have helped you out and they ship next day if everything is in stock.

 

i figured it would cost 200bux for a refurbished wheel (which is the price of those wheels on ebay that someone provided in this thread) and then 100bux for the wheel tire.. (actually 111 from honda)

so... that means 300bux.. actually more... because tire will need tax added on to it.

So i get a steel wheel for 50bux.. a tire for... lets be generous and say another 50bux. so 100 bux for somenoe to keep me running while i wait for all that stuff to come in.

thats 400-450bux now.. vs 500~.. probly 550bux i'll have to pay right now at the dealership, so i would only save about 100bux anyways.

 

You're ahead of the game with a sound set of stock wheels.

 

I got mine from a junkyard in great A0 condition for $90 after I curbed my rim to hell. I checked the junkyards in NC for you and found 3 in high point, NC for 125 each in A0 condition.

2009
Wheel
Honda Fit(alloy), 14 spoke000A
0X373$125
actualAAA Auto Salvage USA-NC(High-Point) Request_Quote 1-336-886-5076 1-800-672-5810 Request_Insurance_Quote

 

++++1 :-----0'

 

If I were going to buy one of these used wheels from a junkyard/salvage yard, I would take it to a wheel/tire place first to have it checked for bends, cracks, balance and straightness before I'd use it, after all, they are coming off wrecked (total loss) Fits.

At least with the brand new wheel he has nothing to worry about.

 

I'm selling a whole set off of my 2010 Sport with less than 200 miles on them (no scratches or abrasions).
Wheels, caps and lug nuts 450.
No tires or sensors though.
Sorry shipping would probably be prohibitive.

 

darn i wish you replied sooner my friend. i was in a hurry to get back to school and work i went ahead and got it from honda... they took a chunk of money out of me... 622 dollars to be exact... this honda dealership by my parent's home is such a rip-off... we didn't buy the fit from them because they wouldn't bother pre-ordering us the honda fit..

I actually bought my honda out in Highpoint NC, which is a close by city, and it was also the same place that we bought my sister a honda... kinda sucks.... but hell... a dealership has to make money.. (my whole family drives honda except my dad.. which he has a toyota truck)

again, thanks for all the help guys... it sucks that something like this is needed prety quickly..

I really didn't want to repair this because my plan was to get new wheels maybe when all my tires go bad... OR get all new tires that are different sizes so it would be easyer to buy tires for now on... because that OEM 185/55/16 is hard to find and if this ever happens to me again, i would HAVE to wait for a tire shop to actually order a 185.....

what REALLY sucks is that these 3 tires have 15k miles on them already i got the OEM Dunlops... and i keep these things inflated at 40-50 i always check my tire pressure every 2 months or so because we have a compressor at home.. and i always fill it up to 50 PSI each time... and the tires are showing some hardcore wear already... as if i already driven this car like almost 30k... this is my first experiance with dunlop.. and iam not sure if i will return to dunlop again when its time to change all 4's... at this rate it looks like i'll change my tires around 30k if this keeps up....

ohhh well.

 

Vash,

I've had good experiences with dunlop but to be honest, I've never had good experiences with ANY oem tire so don't judge based upon the OEM. I've had Sp Sport A2's Direzza DZ101's from Dunlop and both were GREAT! the DZ101's had mass amounts of Grip on the GS-R (summer only though) and the sp sports had great grip for the civic and lasted forever(all seasons). I had Bridgestone Turnaza's on the altima and they SUCKED something Fierce but the OEM Bridgestone's (still turnaza's) are better. Not as good as a dedicated summer tire which is what will happen when I get my snows and these wear out.

As for the cost and the need for it right away, It's what I refer to as the Gotta-have-it-now tax. when I worked retail, people used to ask why they would pay more in a store VS online.... I told them... if you gotta have it now, it's gonna cost a little bit more. if you can wait, you can save a few $$ Most people bought b/c they had to have it in their hands and right away.

In NC, you are at a tough spot as dedicated Summer & winter tires aren't needed and unless you have another vehicle, all seasons would be the only option with occasional snow. Yokohama makes some decent low cost all seasons that perform well but my preference would actually be the Dunlops (not the OE tire) or the Bridgestone Grids if I had to do all season again.

~SB

 

I live near Burlington NC and I have a spare wheel you can have for $88. It may have a tire on it and that would be free. It ain't pretty but it a 08 alloy one. Check junkyards around Charlotte is another possibility.

 

wow 50 psi...is that what the recommendation is??

 

its what the maximum is.. therse no really a recommended tire pressure on the tire it self so... i figured i might as well fill it up to specs.

it actually gets me SUPER good MPG like this.. i do a little over 40 MPG and my car is a MANUAL which manuals aren't supposed to be as good as automatics, and i have CAI to make the MPG go worst..

 

cool if it works for you but I would prefer to have a bit more contact patch I never run more than 40 psi. and I'm still getting good gas mileage.

 

It is not recommended to run the maximum pressure listed on the tire. That is really bad. The recommended tire inflation pressures are listed by Honda on a sticker in the driver's door jam. The recomended pressure for a Fit Sport with the OEM 185 16" tires is 33psi front and rear.

Both overinflation, and underinflation will lead to irregular, and faster tread wear.

 

Most autocrossers on stock tires run 40 to 50 psig for enhanced cornering because that reduces sidewall roll that results in less tread contact area.
My Fit benefits from 50 psig on 15" tires and 40 psig on 17" tires. where sidewall height is much reduced and stiffer.

 

Real men don't race in parking lots :P, and when they're done doing their racing in parking lots, they should reduce the pressures in their tires back to the recommended pressures set by the manufacturer.

Vash asked why his Dunlops are showing "hardcore wear already" stating it is: "as if i already driven this car like almost 30k... this is my first experiance with dunlop.. and iam not sure if i will return to dunlop again when its time to change all 4's"

Its because he's filling his tires up to the maximum pressure listed on the tire, which is not safe. That's why the tires are wearing fast, because he's over-inflating the tires, reducing the effective tread contact patch with the road.

Disadvantages of Overinflation

An overinflated tire is stiff and unyielding and the size of its footprint in contact with the road is reduced. If a vehicle's tires are overinflated by 6 psi, they could be damaged more easily when encountering potholes or debris in the road [hole in wheel anyone?], as well as experience irregular tread wear ["hardcore wear"]. Higher inflated tires cannot isolate road irregularities as well causing the vehicle to ride harsher and transmit more noise into its interior. However, higher inflation pressures reduce rolling resistance slightly and typically provide a slight improvement in steering response and cornering stability. This is why participants who use street tires in autocrosses, track events and road races run higher than normal inflation pressures.

Tire Tech Information - Air Pressure - Correct, Underinflated and Overinflated

If Vash had 50 PSI in his tires at the time of the wheel damage, that would explain a lot. Recommended pressure once again is 33 psi. He's over-inflating by 17 psi.