Let us know how long it takes for the light to go out. I had an unsuccessful experience getting the warning light to go out after uploading the new codes into the car computer. It drove me nuts, so I finally had the dealership whack it into shape. One should NOT have to pay to resolve this twice yearly.

 

wow really, mine hasn't gone out yet and it is irritating.. i think you have to like drive a certain amount of miles or something.. how long was yours blinking before u went to the dealer? how much did u spend?

 

oh another thing, do u guys know if i'll fail the state inspection if the light is blinking? thanks in advance!

 

I drove about two weeks, which consists of work commutes of 20 miles round-trip and weekend errands. The dealership charged $48 to turn off the light. I've Emailed Ateq for support twice, but they only responded the first time (which wasn't helpful). I've been waiting for the software to download an update that at least includes the 2010 model year. I wonder if that has something to do with it.

 

lights finally off, but i went to the dealer to get it fix.

after emails and phonecalls from ateq and tirerack support, finally narrowed down what could have caused it..
1. wrong sensor id's
2. the sensors aren't activated

i found out that when tirerack shipped me the wheels, the sensors are on sleep mode and requires a tool to activate it, the ateq vt10 trigger tool, but instead of buying it went to the dealer instead. so they just did a reset and the light is gone. and good thing too coz when i checked the sensors id again using the ateq quickset turns out one of the sensor id's that tirerack gave me was wrong so it's prolly causing the problem too

 

Thanks for the update mhaezthro! I hope yours is an isolated case, because I'm going to be mad if I run into the same problem with my set of tires from Tire Rack .

 

I'm going to be swapping wheels very soon. I'm surprised I've made it this long before the ice was more apparent.

mhaezthro: I, too, thought my sensors were inactive. The tire shop activated them and uploaded them with their own tool and it still didn't cause the light to go off after over a week. Weird. Did you take photos of your sensors, or were they already mounted in the wheels? I took photos and used those codes to populate the entries in the Windows program.

Since I know the numbers are correct in the computer (finally), I'm going to use the tool to pull them out of the car computer. My winter ID's are already in the tool, so hopefully the car will accept them, because they're the original factory sensors. Grr.

 

Don't get too confident yet. I went through this about this time last year. Unfortunately even dealer service departments don't fully grasp all the variables in TPMS, and the "solution" is sometimes to just reset the warning light, which only makes the light go away temporarily until the car travels a certain number (20?) of miles. And for those waiting weeks for the light to go off, I'm an owner of a QuickSet, and after making the change the light goes off after travelling about half a block. I'm still waiting for someone to come out with a cheap sensor reader that I can keep in the glove compartment to use when the TPMS low pressure light comes on. I tried an Autel MaxiTPMS TS301 reader but it didn't recognize our sensors and I wasn't confident an update would ever be available as promised so I returned it to Amazon.

 

dealer said they did a test drive, not sure how many miles, and the light stayed off; i drove to work , about 30mi and itstayed off.. so hopefully thats that. heh.

@BraytonAk - i got the wheels with the sensors already mounted

 

I'll just chime in with a "it doesn't work for me" either . The quickset is doing something (the TPMS light turned off, but now the low pressure light is blinking), but it seems like the same case as with mhaezthro.

I did a bit of reading and it seems the TRW sensors that Tire Rack uses for the Fits are shipped in "storage" mode, and they require activation with a tool to wake them up... so unless Tire Rack did this before shipping, I'll have to either buy an activation tool (seems like the cheap Autel doesn't work, so that leaves the ATEQ VT15) or head to the dealer.

I'll try to work through some troubleshooting with Tire Rack, but I'm not too hopeful .

 

yeah that's what they told me.. it's on sleep mode and u need the tool to start it. just make sure they gave u the right codes. coz when i checked mine after going to the dealer one of the letter on one of the codes was wrong.. best of luck

 

SO SAD . I wish Tire Rack either mentioned this (sort of how they say you need the ATEQ Quickset; if you need an activation tool they should say so!), or used the same sensor in the OEM wheels that is activated by a pressure drop.

Do you know if the sensors will go to sleep again (like when you take them off in the spring)? I'm debating whether to get the activation tool or have the dealer do it (or to return the Quickset...) -- if the sensors are going to need the tool again next winter, I'd be better off buying a tool, but if this is just a one time thing, then I'll have the dealer do it...

 

I just went through this process on my 2010 Base Fit. I bought rims off of ebay, the rims were stamped TPMS and were identical to the rims that were on the car. I bought Honda sensors online from Majestic Honda, plus the nuts and washers. They were the TRW sensors. I looked at each sensor and wrote down the code printed on the sensor body. I used the ATEQ Quickset tool to read out the original sensors. The orginal sensors get imported from the Quickset tool onto your computer by the Quickset software. You have to enter the four new sensor codes for your winter tires manually into the quickset software. I also wrote down all 8 sensors in an e-mail which I sent to my gmail address and archived away. Important that you do this because you can erase all sensor data stored in the Quickset software. I did this by mistake, but this may also be a feature because you no longer have a four car limit on the quickset software . You can always enter all 8 sensors by hand, which is what I did when I accidently blew away the original data. Also, the software performed an update and I lost all information and had to renter it again. I then followed the steps to load the new sensor data into the quickset tool. The quickset tool itelf almost acts like a USB drive. You actually load it with both sets of sensor data and the make and model of your car. At that point I don't think you would need to program the quickset tool again unless you "break" a sensor and need to replace it or you want to program the tool to work with a different car. I think the tool can only store one car at a time and the software has storage for only four cars.

Next I installed the sensors on the winter rims and then went to the tire store and had the snow tires mounted on the rims. Drove back from the tire store with summer rims in the back, so no TPMS warning light. Once home, I connected the quickset tool and pressed the winter button and now the TPMS light was blinking. According to quickset instructions and other sources on the net, the blinking light should go away when you drive a couple of blocks. I did not bother to take a test drive before "activating" the TPMS sensors, so I don't know if they really needed activating or not. Supposedly TRW sensors need an electronic tool to activate. Pacifica? sensors activate by quickly letting air out of each tire, which wakes up the sensor. However, Honda states you activate the sensors by letting the air out of them.

Anyway, even though I had TRW sensors I performed the deflate the tire thing on each tire and re-inflated them. I then got in the car and took it for a drive. The TPMS light stopped blinking and went out after I had passed about 5 houses. I've driven about 25 miles so far and the light is still out. If it comes back on, I'll post again.

I bought my quickset online for 97 dollars shipped. The rims were 300 dollars shipped. 152 dollars for the sensors and install kits. At 60 dollars a change over, it will take 5 years to break even, at 2 changes a season. The tire store swaps rims for free, but charges 60 dollars to mount and balance tires if you only have one set of rims. I personally do the rim changeover myself, because I can do the change over faster than driving to the store and waiting for them to do it. Of course every time the tire store mounts and unmounts a tire from a rim you take the risk they will break a sensor. I'm almost thinking the black electrical tape over the light during the winter would have made way more sense. Either that or move down south.

 

Wow, tire shops must not have the same market there as they do here. They get you coming and going here. Around $50 to change your tires, then another $50 to update TPMS. And since everyone changes tires twice a year, there's at least one tire shop in town that stays open 24 hours when the first snow hits to try to get everyone taken care of.

I change my tires myself each season and figure I'm saving $50 twice a year by using the ATEQ tool alone. It's a troublesome tool, but I've managed to get it to work this season. I've paid the dealership once to activate the brand new sensors that came from Honda and program them into the computer. Now the ATEQ tool can take over. The tool alone is paid off quickly. (Less than two years.)

 

THANK YOU base_fit_2010!

Inspired by your post, I tried the same method of activating the sensors by deflating the tires, and IT WORKED!

So in summary, this is what I did:
1. Put on winter wheels, didn't do anything to the TPMS.
2. After about 20 miles, TPMS light comes on.
3. I use the Quickset to program in the sensor IDs of the new wheels. TPMS light goes out but low pressure light starts blinking.
4. Drive about 20 miles, the low pressure light kept blinking.
4a. Came onto the forums and related my tale of woe, lamenting a possible trip to the dealer. Saw base_fit_2010's post.
5. Deflated my tires for about 15 seconds, dropping the pressure by about 12 psi. Filled them back up.
6. About half a block after leaving the gas station where I did step 5, the low pressure light goes out.

Thanks again base_fit_2010 for your post!

 

If you don't mind, I have a couple questions regarding the quickset.

How does it work? I know each TPMS sensor has its own ID. How did you reset the new Honda TPMS sensors without telling ECU? The ECU will only remember 4 IDs. How your new sensors ID get record in the ECU? Otherwise, it seems to me that quickset simulate the sensor ID to me. Please advice.

 

This worked for me, too. Thanks for all who posted above.

I am still suprised that Tire Rack isn't more DIY friendly. When I bought my winter tires with TPMS sensors, I asked them to send me the sensors IDs. They did not do this (I had to call them to ask for the #s). They also don't include any information about the TPMS sensors, like the brand, or the fact that they are in "sleep" mode and need to be activated, etc. If it wasn't for the internet and my patience to look this stuff up, I wouldn't have been able to get this done.

This is my first car with TPMS.

TPMS should be such a mystery or a "back to the dealer" thing.

 

I know your post is 2 years old so you probably don't need this info anymore but here goes (for other readers):

1. The ATEQ Quickset allows you to program in the sensor ID #s for each of the 4 TPMS sensors (in your new wheels). You do this first by typing in the sensor IDs -- which you get from the place which sold you the sensors (in my case, from Tire Rack). You type them in to the Quickset software on your PC and the #s get downloaded to the Quickset device, which is connected to your PC with a USB cable

2. Then you unplug the Quickset from your PC and plug it into the OBD-II port on your car and transfer the sensor ID #s to the TPMS control unit on your car by pressing a button on the Quickset.

3. Then you take your sensors out of "sleep" mode. In my case, I did this by deflating each tire from 35 to 20 psi and then refilling them back to 35 (or whatever pressure you use). (Handy to have a compressor at home)

4. Then drive a few blocks, getting above 25 mph or so. I only needed to go a few blocks, not 10 miles or 10 minutes. Just getting to the end of my street was enough.

When I switch back to summer tires in the Spring, I expect I will have to repeat steps 2 -4 above. The quickset retains the sensor #s you programmed, with one set of 4 ID #s for Winter and one set of 4 ID #s for Summer. Be sure to write them down or email them to yourself (as suggested above) so you don't lose them.

Transferring the numbers after you've entered them into the Quickset the first time should be quite easy. All you have to do is plug the Quickset into the OBD-II port and press the "snowflake button" on the Quickset for winter (to transfer the 4 winter wheel sensor IDs to the car's TPMS control unit) or press the "sun button" on the Quickset for summer (to transfer the 4 summer wheel sensor IDs to teh car's TPMS control unit).

It is pretty easy once you've done it once, woken your sensors out of sleep mode, etc., but it was a bit of a pita to figure out the software, second-guessing whether I was doing it right, not knowing that I needed to "wake up" my sensors, etc. Next time should be much easier.

This is definitely something DIYers can do. Just save up some patience and plan for some frustration and you should be fine.

 

I've been living with the blinking low pressure light for a few weeks now. I really don't even notice it much anymore other than to confuse it with the turn signal at times. I'll attempt to deflate the tires and re-inflate them to wake the sensors. I've had so much trouble with the QuickSet tool that I would be shocked if this helps. I've hated Honda's implementation of TPMS since I bought the car.

 

I just want to say thanks for the help here - and post my experience.

I have a 2013 Fit which turned the TPMS light on 5 miles after purchase - so instead of heading back to the dealer I read here to drop the pressure - pump them back up and bingo TPMS light went out.

So now that it's winter I bought - wheels and rims from TireRack, Rubber from Costco, ATEQ Quickset from web.

Used ATEQ to read the Summers while they were still on (One gotcha for me was the ATEQ tool needs the ignition to be in RUN mode just engine off.) - took car to Costco to have the Winters installed - then left with blinking Low Pressure warning light.

Used ATEQ to capture the Winter TPMS code and they were different from the summers - now have all 8 codes. Back to Costco and they say - we have no idea - take it to Honda.

But I read this - deflated the tires and pumped them back to 33 and bingo after 20 feet - no more low pressure light.

So - Two different light patterns with same problems - thats what got me.