No BP either. No Tier 1 Fuels. Nada for 30-45Mile.
Mobile Stewart's Sunoco Gulf Citco. . . . others
Interesting detail on BP. Little less ethanol.

I'm not sure changing to winter blends helps anything.
I see no difference between the two. Only premium was the V-Power on my way to the city.
Love that fuel. Two tanks at least.

 

I like Sunoco went to Washington DC and used it very close in mpg. Winter blends the aromatics are taken out for isobutanes cleaner but need to burn more gas. Thats part of the problem people comparing winter to summer mpg and they try premium but only 1 tank and say it doesn't work. It takes a few tanks for the car to adjust and for you to adjust to it. If you always put the pedal to floor then using premium will give worst gas mileage. Premium gas is denser so it will raise fuel pressure at injector tip and vaporize better at the same time cooling the valves and pistons. I never had a engine problem.

 

The GD-3s Have a compression ratio of 10.4 to 1 and I can tell there is a difference between the different octane ratings in both performance and fuel mileage as well low end torque on hills... That was when my car only had a short ram intake and larger diameter axle back pipe with glass pack muffler..... I now have the KWSC high boost kit and premium grade fuel is a must. Still I find that the reflashed ECU will advance ignition timing an average of 5 degrees with octane booster added to the fuel at cruising speeds at 25 to 30% throttle openings and accelerate to higher speed in the same distance at WOT... I have also noticed that using colder heat range spark plugs also increases ignition advance and have seen as high as 41 degrees advance on my scan gauge.... If you are looking for mileage increases with higher octane fuel while driving conservatively it isn't likely to happen because you are not asking enough of your engine but if you are the kind of driver that enjoys driving at high speeds and drive more aggressively you will see a 6 to 10% improvement, or at least that is what I have experienced with my GD-3 with manual transmission.

 

I tried to keep the mileage as even as possible with two tanks to empty on each fuel and then switch on empty. My mileage numbers vary as I went over several higher mountain passes on I-5 and would then follow it up with stretches of flat valley driving. Temps were pretty constant and I hit almost no rain. Also all fuel was summer blend.

I have noticed a slight increase in mileage over time and a decided decrease with winter blend. Almost 20K so I think my little Fit is broken-in by now.

2010 Taffeta White
5spd Sport

 

[QUOTE=Texas Coyote;882515]The GD-3s Have a compression ratio of 10.4 to 1 and I can tell there is a difference between the different octane ratings in both performance and fuel mileage as well low end torque on hills... That was when my car only had a short ram intake and larger diameter axle back pipe with glass pack muffler..... I now have the KWSC high boost kit and premium grade fuel is a must. Still I find that the reflashed ECU will advance ignition timing an average of 5 degrees with octane booster added to the fuel at cruising speeds at 25 to 30% throttle openings and accelerate to higher speed in the same distance at WOT... I have also noticed that using colder heat range spark plugs also increases ignition advance and have seen as high as 41 degrees advance on my scan gauge.... If you are looking for mileage increases with higher octane fuel while driving conservatively it isn't likely to happen because you are not asking enough of your engine but if you are the kind of driver that enjoys driving at high speeds and drive more aggressively you will see a 6 to 10% improvement, or at least that is what I have experienced with my GD-3 with manual transmission.[/QUOTE


That interesting so I am driving wrong. I will run my car harder this week and let you know. The humidity came down and my mpg going to work was 47 mpg on scan gauge. I have the gauge set up right no corrections the last 2 tanks. The van I went on vacation has a low compression motor 9.5to 1 and probably has a static compression of 8.0 to 1 and you can still notice the difference even in winter.

 

I've thought the same thing. A bit too much thinking me thinks, but you never know.

At what mileage, would you guess, will your engine be broken-in? I'm thinking 15K.

K_C_

 

HA! This is what is good to see. These engines mature.

 

Shell has a pretty extensive network in the NE, and BP has just started opening up tons of stores around my area. All other places generally use less refined "budget" fuel that is a blend from multiple refineries and regions. Here is a list of top tier gasoline suppliers that I'm sure a lot of other people use outside of the NE region - we just don't have anymore here;

More specific info here. Top Tier Gasoline

 

Based upon my mileage readings and particularly the one long trip, mileage was still increasing going over 10K miles. As I hit 20K, I expect everything to level off. With a bit of luck and the synthetic oil that will be going in shortly, I hope my mileage will stay at the current level for at least the next 50K miles. As I am driving around 30K miles per year, it shouldn't take too long to tell.

My next battle will be to find some decent rubber. Any suggestions?

 

I believe an engine is almost broken in at 1000 if that, The reason I think this is the sensors are deteriorating the moment you start your new car. Engine are make to exact tolerances and ran on a electric dry run dyno to make sure its Ok to sell. The materials are more forgiving than steel blocks of the past.

 

I would agree that modern engines are held to tighter tolerances than in the past, and require less of a break-in.

Moon

 

I remember in the past that you would have to change the oil after the first 1000 miles to get the metal shavings out, It takes about 1 year for the computer to set the long term fuel trims due to changing weather but thats not engine break in and the sensors are deteriorating at the same time. New engines are so complicated.

 

Wow. Hard to imagine an engine being broken-in in just 1Kmiles.

I'm not thinking metal shavings so much as all those moving surfaces becoming seated. The tolerances are high and I interpret it as a 'tight' engine. All those surfaces still need to get to know each other real well. During this process metal is worn, more in the beginning. The amount is a whole lot less in today's engines and some mfg's are better than others.

From what I glean it's near 7-8K. My 15K is way off.

This recommended initial oil change sequence has opened my eyes to the technology present.

Honda is out of the synthetic oil business. [not for any models??]

Synthetic oil guys say switch over after 10K or so miles dino. That initial engine wear or break-in. Crucial to the longevity of the engine.

--------------------------------------------------------

The sensors. Each monitoring system operates within an acceptable range of values.

All those codes represent something functioning to spec. If something go wack - it records that.

Could be a measurement going out of spec - a system failing - a sensor failing - all sorts of things. User is alerted something is up.

Not sure what/where sensor deterioration fit's in. It is designed into the system, no?

 

I agree with some things but I believe the bearings set after a few heat cycles because of tighter clearances, the problem is protection not on these parts as for pistons and rings Honda plateau honed and uses ion piston rings. Read somewhere that they set after startup.
I just checked my oil at 3500 miles it getting dark but when I put on finger theres a lot left. Mobil1 is factory fill in the Acura RDX . A new engine computer doesn't have the maps to run the car in close loop, that takes 600 miles to get enough maps to not hurt the motor. The carbon on the piston equalizes at 15000 but thats not brake it in. Any time you have electricity going into or fluids going across sensors it is deteriorating, That doesn't mean it not going to last 100,000 miles or more. I am not sure about synthetics any more, Ive put m1 in at 3000 on 2004 civic no problems at 45000 miles 38 mpg traded it for the Fit.

I guess if you put it all together and its around 10000 and call it break in, I guess I agree.

 

You finish with a good point - call it break-in. What ever it means. I see it in simple terms. Honda makes the motor to a high standard. The forst 7-8K are with dino and all the parts 'seat' themselves. After that switch to synthetic. Better wear/life characteristics than dinon Honda has no issue with this, it's just interesting that they don't recommend synthetic oil.

 

I am loving this thread... Intellectual interaction instead of name calling and put downs over what wheels are cool or ricer...

 

Is this the never ending debate? Premium vs. Regular? Of course when I bought my new Fit I felt obligated to experiment. I've stayed to "Top Tier" stations...in my area Chevron but tried full tanks of regular and premium. No scan guage, not much hard information to provide, but my simple empiracle feedback has been that I noticed little to no improvement in mileage with the premium, and I actually felt the engine ran a little rougher with the premium. Oddly and unexpectedly, I thought it ran smoother with the regular. So regular it is. I do not pretend to have the definitive, scientifically supportable evidence on this, but IMO if Premium doesn't seem to be aiding in mileage or in how your engine is running? Then why pay extra?

 

If you were to disconnect the negative cable on your battery and reconnect it to reset the ECU after changing over you may or may not feel the difference and see an increase fuel mileage.... I am not going to say that you definitely will, but I did... I agree with not paying the extra money if no positive difference is experienced... It is hard to know how much of the added octane in todays fuel is from the percentage of ethanol being used, that stuff kills fuel mileage....All of the pumps in this area have a sticker stating that up to 10% methanol has been added to the fuel.... People are being killed by high fructose corn syrup and our fuel mileage is being killed by the same product being used in ethanol production..... Corporate greed sucks.

 

Them big boys - ConAgra - Cargill - Arcer Daniels Midland - Farmland - have us clean and simple. They are our government, at least they have bought congress. Put the oil boys next to them and you see where we are. Oh yea, don't forget Insurance and of course, the Lawyers and Bankers.

As to the ECU, I'm wondering how much of a learining curve it has to an individuals driving habit/style. I'm sure that my FIT is learning how I drive a bit more than I'm learning how to drive it.

 

I was thinking of Bob Dole and ADM on my last post.... Most farmers I know make more off of the crop rotation program than crops and then bitch about federal programs that are administered by the Department of Agriculture that help feed the families of the people they pay crap wages to.