how to (and not to) paint your rims
#21
of my car? i'll post a couple within the week. i've got 2 projects wrapping up this week on it (painting the diffuser like yours and i did a little work to the rear garnish)
#22
Nice post... I have painted rims... try adding clear coat on the paint when done.... it will reduce oxydizing of the color and give some protection layer. a scuff could be polised or touched up with 1,000 grit .
steel wool is not bad for prep and or red scuff pads. dont forget the most important last step... tach cloth. tack cloth. if painting outside early mornings offer time that bugs will not likely be around to foil the paint
steel wool is not bad for prep and or red scuff pads. dont forget the most important last step... tach cloth. tack cloth. if painting outside early mornings offer time that bugs will not likely be around to foil the paint
#24
To second the clearing...
If you go through the work to clean and paint, spend an extra bit of time clear coating! The biggest failure mode of spray paint is chipping. You want AT LEAST 8 coats of paint on the wheel. 2 coats of primer, 4 coats of paint (or more) and 2 coats of clear (or more). Wet sand between coats of clear. Each coat will make the paint deeper and more durable.
Folks that put on a coat of primer and maybe 2 coats of paint and no clear are the same ones that complain that the wheels chip up and look cheap. Well, Duh! Teh paint looks great when it is fresh, but does not have the thickness built up to be durable, and does not have any protection against oxidation.
Zach
If you go through the work to clean and paint, spend an extra bit of time clear coating! The biggest failure mode of spray paint is chipping. You want AT LEAST 8 coats of paint on the wheel. 2 coats of primer, 4 coats of paint (or more) and 2 coats of clear (or more). Wet sand between coats of clear. Each coat will make the paint deeper and more durable.
Folks that put on a coat of primer and maybe 2 coats of paint and no clear are the same ones that complain that the wheels chip up and look cheap. Well, Duh! Teh paint looks great when it is fresh, but does not have the thickness built up to be durable, and does not have any protection against oxidation.
Zach
#25
If you want the option to remove that horrible finish, do not sand your wheels.
Of course, use osha-approved method to do the following:
1)Clean and wipe down w/acetone
2)Prime/Paint with rattle-can
note- this finish is not resistant to acetone/fuel/brake cleaner/etc
When you hate it, strip it down to the pristine factory finish with a rag soaked in acetone. Voila!
If you want to paint your wheels permanently:
1)Clean wheels
2)Use paint prep scuff pads to dull finish
3)Paint with professional automotive finish (not rattle can)
note this finish is resistant to acetone/fuel/brake cleaner
source- I was a professional painter!
Of course, use osha-approved method to do the following:
1)Clean and wipe down w/acetone
2)Prime/Paint with rattle-can
note- this finish is not resistant to acetone/fuel/brake cleaner/etc
When you hate it, strip it down to the pristine factory finish with a rag soaked in acetone. Voila!
If you want to paint your wheels permanently:
1)Clean wheels
2)Use paint prep scuff pads to dull finish
3)Paint with professional automotive finish (not rattle can)
note this finish is resistant to acetone/fuel/brake cleaner
source- I was a professional painter!
Last edited by jondotcom; 03-01-2011 at 08:49 PM.
#27
Just remember not to breath paint or even mild overspray (DUH!), and you'll be fine. Otherwise, paint [or remove paint from] your wheels the way YOU want to do it. Most people don't need governmental fools telling them how many times a day they can go to the bathroom... they can figure that out -- as well as painting their wheels -- perfectly on their own!
#28
Hey, it worked for me on bad and/or irritating days... since you've started posting here!
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