2nd Generation (GE 08-13) 2nd Generation specific talk and questions here.

???A/C Effect on MPG???

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  #21  
Old 09-03-2010 | 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Krimson_Cardnal
On my third tank of premium. Looking good, but I'm not sure it's the fuel - more simple old technique me thinks. I'll soon go back to regular and catch a look-see before the season changes. Right now I'm not thinking premium is cost effective from the MPG point of view.
I went back to premium and my mileage went up to 40 plus again. I drive the same route on newly pave roads so my driving is consistent. I also did a few full throttle passes on the highway and thought my mileage would drop but it went up by 7 mpg on the scan gauge. I learned that the MAF in closed loop adjusts the fuel and when I did the full throttle passes past 3500 rpm the ecu uses the speed density settings which I think are more accurate. Also I think any carbon deposits were cleaned out too, so that helped my volumetric efficiency of the motor. In the winter I will go back to regular and start over.
 
  #22  
Old 09-03-2010 | 01:26 AM
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Silver - I've not heard that carbon build-up is an issue w/ the Fit.

Now, with the 275HP northstar engine cadillac has it can be. The solution to 'clearing the carbon' is to perform a WOT [wide open throttle] exercise.

*** I am not suggesting this on the Fit - extreme stress on the engine, not sure the Fit could tolerate it, I'm talking 275HP V-8, so don't be foolish.

*** I post this only because carbon build-up can be an issue with some engines and it's one of the reasons I love the northstar engine. WOT in a cadillac is way too much fun_

The exercise that I think works best for many things is to select manual 2nd gear on an isolated stretch of expressway. This takes the transmission shifting out of the question if you are worried about hurting it. Start at 55 MPH or so and go to WOT in 2nd gear and hold it until the RPM reaches near the normal shift point - i.e. 6500 for an L37 and 6000 for an LD8. Hold the throttle wide open until the engine reaches, say, 6200 for an STS and then just let completely off the throttle. Leave the transmission in 2nd so that the engine brakes the car and creates some pretty heavy over-run conditions at high vacuum levels. Let it slow until it is about 55 or so and then go to WOT again and repeat. This exercise really loads the rings, allows variable RPM operation at WOT for several seconds continuously, creates heavy over-run which tends to unload the rings and make them move and thus exercise them in the ring grooves and it will blow-out carbon and the exhaust - all without creating a spectical of yourself and attracting the attention of cops. You can do it on most any freeway and stay within the 70-75 MPH range allowable. Once a week like this will keep the engine cleaned out and healthy and is DEFINITELY recommended for the Northstar in particular.
Source link: Cadillac Forums: Cadillac FAQ and Technical Reference

What you see out the rear view are clouds of brown smoke billowing behind as you hang on with all you've got.

What you see in the front hall mirror every time you look for the next day is one big sh%&t eating grin_

With the Fit, the ECU is smarter than most understand. It will give you the best return for your driving profile.

Back to on topic time now.
 
  #23  
Old 09-03-2010 | 11:55 PM
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I think Honda could have a carbon problem, because only 3 valves work and the 4 valve doesn't open up until 3500 rpms. If your trying to save gas you drive below 3500 rpm.
Thanks for the link KC. I know Honda motors love to rev and think its a cheap fix to do once in awhile.
 
  #24  
Old 10-04-2010 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by SilverBullet
That one reason cars get bad mileage in the winter, heater on and engine burns more fuel to maintain heat
Running richer ('burning more fuel') would lead to the engine running colder. A leaner mixture produces more heat, while using less fuel. But the engine temperature isn't controlled by the fuel mixture...

The bad winter gas mileage vs summer is attributed to the gasoline, which is changed slightly from normal "summer" gasoline mixtures.
 
  #25  
Old 10-04-2010 | 05:41 PM
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Ya know, I was just looking at that winter/summer and after the recent changes I'm confused. I always thought that as well, but things are different now?
 
  #26  
Old 10-06-2010 | 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Koala Yummies
Running richer ('burning more fuel') would lead to the engine running colder. A leaner mixture produces more heat, while using less fuel. But the engine temperature isn't controlled by the fuel mixture...

The bad winter gas mileage vs summer is attributed to the gasoline, which is changed slightly from normal "summer" gasoline mixtures.
Ive already had a few cold mornings around 35 and gallons per hour at start up was .96 gallons an hour. Cold temp, the intake sensor picks up the temp outside and dictates how rich it will be until warm. 1 mile and 5 minutes later it still was at .36 gallons an hour but when I got off the highway 25 miles later and .18 to.22 gallons per hour. What I am getting at is that during warm up more gasoline is needed because not all the gasoline burns until it warms and thats 1 reason ethanol is put in because the ethanol will just go out the tail pipe lowering emissions during warm up. Depending on how many short trips in the winter it can cause very bad gas mileage. They use a more butanes in the winter because because it vaporizes at a low temp with a high pressure to produce a faster warm up. Butanes replace aromatics in winter. Aromatics have a higher boiling point and get denser when colder and become hard to burn. Aromatics are what help produce better mpg in summer.
 

Last edited by SilverBullet; 10-06-2010 at 11:42 PM.
  #27  
Old 04-22-2011 | 07:50 PM
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I'll be riding the vehicle pictured below when A/C or rolled down windows is needed None the less I was just watching the CBS news and they said using A/C does not really affect your MPG Oh really? Even with a Fit?

Name:  PICT0052.jpg
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  #28  
Old 07-11-2011 | 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by SilverBullet
I think Honda could have a carbon problem, because only 3 valves work and the 4 valve doesn't open up until 3500 rpms. If your trying to save gas you drive below 3500 rpm.
Thanks for the link KC.
I'll give this a try to see if it helps with mpg during AC use. I've been getting between 37.5 - 40.5 actual mpg with AC off in "city driving", and indicated mpg is not off by more than .3 - .4 on the fuel computer. Shifts done normally at 3800 - 4000rpm driving very conservatively on the 5-speed.

Outside air temps are now 105 -110 degrees and with air on I'm seeing indicated fuel computer readings hovering between 31 - 33mpg and I'm beginning to wonder if this Fit has an issue. I haven't confirmed actual mpg as of yet. Seems like a radical drop in efficiency. All of this is on 91 octane premium.
 
  #29  
Old 07-11-2011 | 05:05 AM
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I hope this link maybe help

Mythbusters' mistakes in AC vs windows down episode — Autoblog Green

AC off, windows up = 11.7 MPG
AC off, windows down = 11.3 MPG
AC on, windows up = 11.7 MPG
 

Last edited by guailifit; 07-11-2011 at 05:15 AM.
  #30  
Old 07-11-2011 | 12:24 PM
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Good link, what it shows is what happens on this forum so often.

Someone starts out with a simple question and the feedback blows it to pieces and the number of additional variables takes the initial thought out the window.

This thread has held up quite well, thanks to all.

When it's hot I run AC. When I turn on the defroster the AC comes on. I like it that way, it works as it's supposed to. I'm not going to sweat for a few cents a mile.

Oh yea, I'm the OP.
 
  #31  
Old 07-11-2011 | 10:53 PM
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  #32  
Old 10-06-2011 | 01:23 PM
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It's only about 2-3 less.....I can live with it....nothing too serious with AC on.....
 
  #33  
Old 10-25-2013 | 06:43 PM
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located in AZ and can't live without AC
 
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