What are your tips on achieving the advertised MPG
#21
06-25-2010, 12:21 PM
Silver - forgetting all the controversy surrounding the misunderstanding of "Premium" fuel how are you getting that kind of mileage???
Year/model/mileage of your ride???
I've spent time in Illinois and know it's all about straight roads and no hills - is that it?
Or do you have a sail hanging off your ride - those winds can blow in one direction for days, as I recall.
Seriously though - it can't be in the fuel or tire pressure - how you do it man?
You're monitoring with a Scangauge - how do those numbers compare to the on-board display?
Best I've seen is 40MPG in my local driving suburban/rural world.
Thanks
#22
06-25-2010, 12:39 PM
I still do calculation the old fashion way. When i filled up on gas i write down the amount filled and do the math.
#23
06-25-2010, 01:32 PM
Step 1: Never believe the advertised numbers. They are based of tests of what industry and manufacturers consider "normal" driving. Take the numbers you see posted and remove a few mpgs and you should be good.
That's pretty much it...no Step 2 needed.
That's pretty much it...no Step 2 needed.
#24
06-25-2010, 02:02 PM
I can easily find a Casio Databank online, and get one for a good price. I can't live without it. I use it for calculations, timer, stopwatch, appointment calendar, phone book, alarm, and when needed world times. The only other thing I'd like to see on it now is GPS.
#25
06-25-2010, 09:41 PM
Silver - forgetting all the controversy surrounding the misunderstanding of "Premium" fuel how are you getting that kind of mileage???
I hypermile a little but nothing sever, Premium does do what I said it does go to 1 of my last post I ended it with some info on this. There is a difference and when you find the right gas station you will understand, I use Bp ultimate because it is the best fuel for mileage. For power I use Shell V-power mix with bp and runs like it on nitrous. Some name brand gas stations use generic stuff, it is not the same. I found out a long time because I travel long distances to work and I fill up with premium and noticed huge improvement and studied everything I could find about it.
Year/model/mileage of your ride???
Had a 2008 Fit Sport MT, I averaged 37 mpg for three years average. Best way 47 mpg and worst was 32 in -25 degrees winters, It did not like the cold. The i-vtec that we are taking about
is the same in both civic lx and 2009-2010 Fit only 20 percent smaller.
I've spent time in Illinois and know it's all about straight roads and no hills - is that it?
There are hills but no mountains, remember you go up losing mileage but you have to go down too and usually gets better mpg than you lost.
Or do you have a sail hanging off your ride - those winds can blow in one direction for days, as I recall.
Helps to have a wind at your back
Seriously though - it can't be in the fuel or tire pressure - how you do it man?
Over filling tires helps a little, but not recommended for traction on asphalt roads.Concrete highways give you better mileage that asphalt roads. I filled my tires 40-42 psi
You're monitoring with a Scangauge - how do those numbers compare to the on-board display? I check the mileage the old fashion way and the scangauge is right on after a few tanks. The mileage is off, have to add a mile per hour every once in a while but the tank fillup is right on.
Best I've seen is 40MPG in my local driving suburban/rural world.
40 mpg is great, I only only want people to understand that if there is a problem premium can help so if you get 25 mpg and you fill up with premium and get 35 mpg how much did that save you. It cost more money to drive to the dealer and get no answers then when you fill up with premium gas for 2 dollars more and take the car on the highway.
Thanks
The way I understand how it i vtec works is lets say number 3 cylinder knocks the ecu retards the timing to that cylinder, the end result is that cylinder does not produce power and the other cylinders do more work burning more fuel because the 4 cylinder motor is now running on 3 cylinders. So you run premium and no knock and all 4 cylinder are working the way it should.
Last edited by SilverBullet; 06-25-2010 at 09:51 PM.
#26
06-25-2010, 10:24 PM
dont worry about it. I have a fit sport auto too in brooklyn and city driving really kills the mpg in nyc. I got 50 mpg cruising on the highway before at night in NJ and got 40 on a recent road trip with a fully loaded car of 5 ppl and gear. But the moment I go back home it is about survival on the streets and not getting wrecked. I have gotten at as low as 15 mpg driving the snot out of it on the streets of nyc and getting stuck in traffic.
One time I had a high reading of 50 mpg on my average for about 40 miles or so, then when I drove for 10 miles in 'normal' NYC traffic, it brought it down to 25 mpg. So all in all it sucked about 1.2 gallons just moving 10 miles in the city.
One time I had a high reading of 50 mpg on my average for about 40 miles or so, then when I drove for 10 miles in 'normal' NYC traffic, it brought it down to 25 mpg. So all in all it sucked about 1.2 gallons just moving 10 miles in the city.
#27
06-25-2010, 10:34 PM
Something is almost certainly wrong with your car, and you may be on to something about it feeling like the brakes are dragging. Heavy traffic certainly eats into the gas mileage of an A/T Fit, but under the very worst of rush hour conditions, I have never gotten below 24 mpg. You could try jacking up each wheel to see if it turns freely. Preferably, do this when the brakes are warm from some driving. Drum brakes (rear) rarely stick, but sticky calipers are not unknown with disk brakes.
#28
06-25-2010, 10:41 PM
The way I understand how it i vtec works is lets say number 3 cylinder knocks the ecu retards the timing to that cylinder, the end result is that cylinder does not produce power and the other cylinders do more work burning more fuel because the 4 cylinder motor is now running on 3 cylinders. So you run premium and no knock and all 4 cylinder are working the way it should.
Not sure on this, however. ECU is going to retard timing, plain and simple, not cylinder to cylinder.
Knock sensors are tiny engine mounted microphones tuned to the proper frequency. A very efficient technology.
I understand your fuel rational, though I feel you might be putting too much value on it and why you using BP.
I am a firm believer in TOP TIER FUEL. Any one who is not familiar with this look it up. Shell produces a tremendous product - the only top tier close to the north east. What it does, however, is bump the detergent levels above the EPA minimums.
All raw gasoline stock is essentially the same. At the tank farms the brand name haulers come in and swipe a card that "customizes" the particular blend. That's all the additives, including octane each brand name station uses. I've got a long time buddie out in Oklahoma who does the electrical design on these distribution stations.
You are correct in that the off-named places use common, bare minimum EPA formulas. That's not only the off-named places, however. Trying to get the info is worse than asking the ciggy makers what's in the tobacco.
We just don't need to know that- sorry.
TOP TIER is trying to change that - we should all make noise on this and get it to be more common - it save engines and increases MPG.
I always try to use hi-volume stations to fill up at. Gets you the freshest fuel.
Happy Motoring K_C_
#29
06-25-2010, 11:25 PM
Thanks for all that Silver
Not sure on this, however. ECU is going to retard timing, plain and simple, not cylinder to cylinder.
Knock sensors are tiny engine mounted microphones tuned to the proper frequency. A very efficient technology.
I understand your fuel rational, though I feel you might be putting too much value on it and why you using BP.
I am a firm believer in TOP TIER FUEL. Any one who is not familiar with this look it up. Shell produces a tremendous product - the only top tier close to the north east. What it does, however, is bump the detergent levels above the EPA minimums.
All raw gasoline stock is essentially the same. At the tank farms the brand name haulers come in and swipe a card that "customizes" the particular blend. That's all the additives, including octane each brand name station uses. I've got a long time buddie out in Oklahoma who does the electrical design on these distribution stations.
You are correct in that the off-named places use common, bare minimum EPA formulas. That's not only the off-named places, however. Trying to get the info is worse than asking the ciggy makers what's in the tobacco.
We just don't need to know that- sorry.
TOP TIER is trying to change that - we should all make noise on this and get it to be more common - it save engines and increases MPG.
I always try to use hi-volume stations to fill up at. Gets you the freshest fuel.
Happy Motoring K_C_
Not sure on this, however. ECU is going to retard timing, plain and simple, not cylinder to cylinder.
Knock sensors are tiny engine mounted microphones tuned to the proper frequency. A very efficient technology.
I understand your fuel rational, though I feel you might be putting too much value on it and why you using BP.
I am a firm believer in TOP TIER FUEL. Any one who is not familiar with this look it up. Shell produces a tremendous product - the only top tier close to the north east. What it does, however, is bump the detergent levels above the EPA minimums.
All raw gasoline stock is essentially the same. At the tank farms the brand name haulers come in and swipe a card that "customizes" the particular blend. That's all the additives, including octane each brand name station uses. I've got a long time buddie out in Oklahoma who does the electrical design on these distribution stations.
You are correct in that the off-named places use common, bare minimum EPA formulas. That's not only the off-named places, however. Trying to get the info is worse than asking the ciggy makers what's in the tobacco.
We just don't need to know that- sorry.
TOP TIER is trying to change that - we should all make noise on this and get it to be more common - it save engines and increases MPG.
I always try to use hi-volume stations to fill up at. Gets you the freshest fuel.
Happy Motoring K_C_
Thats what i-vtec sands for. intelligent variable timing engine control. Individual control of timing and fuel, cylinder to cylinder plus can advance cam timing too up to 50 degrees 0,10,20,30,40,50 and control fuel and engine timing. I think it can handle premium gas.
That how they can run regular in a high compression motor Go to hondata and read flashpro help file, read everything there is a lot of info on the whole website. The problem is you dont know when your car knocks. The knock sensor is designed to prevent knock, so if you hear knock then damage can occur. Bad gas mileage is the first sign.
I got a few bad tanks of premium so I went to a station that I know sells ultimate, what a big difference. BP is top tier, they just dont use over 8 percent ethanol in all their blends. I used all of them bp gave me the best mileage, and bp had a good name at one time because it was own by Standard oil which own at one time all the others. Gas is different all over the country so it does not apply to everyone.
#30
06-26-2010, 12:39 AM
wow, thats super low mpg...i drive in los angeles where im always in traffic and i still get about 36mpg at the end of my tank. last time i put in air was about 38 psi. i dunno how you are getting such low mpg o.o good luck bro
#31
06-26-2010, 12:49 AM
dont worry about it. I have a fit sport auto too in brooklyn and city driving really kills the mpg in nyc. I got 50 mpg cruising on the highway before at night in NJ and got 40 on a recent road trip with a fully loaded car of 5 ppl and gear. But the moment I go back home it is about survival on the streets and not getting wrecked. I have gotten at as low as 15 mpg driving the snot out of it on the streets of nyc and getting stuck in traffic.
One time I had a high reading of 50 mpg on my average for about 40 miles or so, then when I drove for 10 miles in 'normal' NYC traffic, it brought it down to 25 mpg. So all in all it sucked about 1.2 gallons just moving 10 miles in the city.
One time I had a high reading of 50 mpg on my average for about 40 miles or so, then when I drove for 10 miles in 'normal' NYC traffic, it brought it down to 25 mpg. So all in all it sucked about 1.2 gallons just moving 10 miles in the city.
I'll be traveling down to Queens in a few and will be interested in seeing wazz-up.
"don't worry about it." I love it hobbes87 keepin it real!!!!
#32
06-27-2010, 07:35 AM
anime2k3 - Just a thought., does you FIT rev freely?? Question is are you reaching any limit when revving the engine in neutral or park.
#33
06-27-2010, 12:15 PM
To the OP? Your mileage is so far under the recommended EPA that something is wrong somewhere. If we were talking just a few MPG's? Then I think investigating techniques and minutia or computation procedure valid. But in your case? Unless you are somehow totally miss-calculating your mileage..you do have a problem. Don't let the dealership bully you into ignoring it just because they can't easily find the problem. 1/2 the EPA MPG's is just not a fluke or a slight adjustment.
#34
06-27-2010, 04:20 PM
To the OP? Your mileage is so far under the recommended EPA that something is wrong somewhere. If we were talking just a few MPG's? Then I think investigating techniques and minutia or computation procedure valid. But in your case? Unless you are somehow totally miss-calculating your mileage..you do have a problem. Don't let the dealership bully you into ignoring it just because they can't easily find the problem. 1/2 the EPA MPG's is just not a fluke or a slight adjustment.
#35
06-27-2010, 05:27 PM
My tires are at the correct psi, I drive pretty normal with mixed driving I've been getting over the hwy rating. My last tank netted 36.3 mpg with the a/c on too
Over inflating the tires does two things, one makes the tires wear out faster in the middle, thus costing you more money and two, makes the car ride bad, why would you wanna do such a thing
Wait till its broken in more but try not using the mpg counter in the car, use the "old fashioned" method
Over inflating the tires does two things, one makes the tires wear out faster in the middle, thus costing you more money and two, makes the car ride bad, why would you wanna do such a thing
Wait till its broken in more but try not using the mpg counter in the car, use the "old fashioned" method
#36
06-27-2010, 07:32 PM
True but 40 plus isn't over the 51 manufacturers max PSI. So you're putting your tires in no real danger by adding a little more than Honda's suggested compromise PSI. Less resistance will equal more MPG, while at the same time too, it won't do handling, ride and braking distance much good. Although the ride in my car is fine with me and the noticable MPG improvement is great too. When the time comes, I'd like to replace my rubber with low resistance rubber.
#37
06-27-2010, 08:52 PM
True but 40 plus isn't over the 51 manufacturers max PSI. So you're putting your tires in no real danger by adding a little more than Honda's suggested compromise PSI. Less resistance will equal more MPG, while at the same time too, it won't do handling, ride and braking distance much good. Although the ride in my car is fine with me and the noticable MPG improvement is great too. When the time comes, I'd like to replace my rubber with low resistance rubber.
#38
06-27-2010, 09:00 PM
Maybe I sound like an ass for asking such an obvious question, are you sure the hand brake isn't on?
The light comes on halfway up to the first click, but I'd guess by then there's plenty of pressure on the wheels, which would account for that "feels like brakes are on" feeling you are getting. Have the dealer inspect your brakes. Make sure the brake shoes/pads are actually coming off the drum/discs. Yank the all of the brakes then reinstall then after inspecting each one for clearance. Check brake fluids, master cylinder and the booster to see if everything is releasing properly.
I'm rusty when it comes to a manual transmission car, so I've had to work it quite a bit to even pull off the EPA's numbers, but I'd have a fit (no pun intended) if I got the same mpg as the 1999.5 Nissan Pathfinder I finally stopped driving.
FYI, I do deliveries, all short hops too. So yeah, have the car checked out by someone else if necessary.
The light comes on halfway up to the first click, but I'd guess by then there's plenty of pressure on the wheels, which would account for that "feels like brakes are on" feeling you are getting. Have the dealer inspect your brakes. Make sure the brake shoes/pads are actually coming off the drum/discs. Yank the all of the brakes then reinstall then after inspecting each one for clearance. Check brake fluids, master cylinder and the booster to see if everything is releasing properly.
I'm rusty when it comes to a manual transmission car, so I've had to work it quite a bit to even pull off the EPA's numbers, but I'd have a fit (no pun intended) if I got the same mpg as the 1999.5 Nissan Pathfinder I finally stopped driving.
FYI, I do deliveries, all short hops too. So yeah, have the car checked out by someone else if necessary.
Last edited by Goobers; 06-27-2010 at 09:03 PM.
#39
06-27-2010, 10:03 PM
I tried running 40 psi for a few months, and could measure no difference in calculated (not reported by the meter) mileage compared with recommended pressure. However, the ride was notably harsher at 40 psi, so. I backed off to 35F, 33R; the ride is better, and the gas mileage is not measurably different.
Re the OP, have you checked your tire pressures? Under-inflated tires can cut into your mileage.
Re parking brake, an alarm sounds if it's engaged while moving.
Re the OP, have you checked your tire pressures? Under-inflated tires can cut into your mileage.
Re parking brake, an alarm sounds if it's engaged while moving.
#40
06-27-2010, 10:45 PM
I'm sure anime2k3will be back with us, but I'm guessing it's driving in NYC that's killing his MPG's. For those who aren't familiar with Brooklyn, it's unlike any place else in the world. Driving is a challenge beyond understanding. Add summer heat and you've got a classic: MySpace Player