Driving my new '10 Fit I noticed the clutch doesn't engage at the floor. I've never driven a new car where the clutch engaged when the lever was only halfway down. My friend just bought a new Scion Tc and his clutch engages at the floor which is what I like.

Anybody else notice this on their new 5-speed Fit?

 

My 08 doesn't engage at the floor either. If you really want it there its an easy adjustment to make, just takes some toying to get it the way you like it.

 

if you ever driven a stiff clutch, you will be able to drive any stock clutch even during your first release.

 

He's not saying he can't drive it, just saying he likes it to engage at a different point.

 

i mean what i was getting too was that every car is different, I was kinda picky at first too, like my first manual transmission car (my first car when i was 16) i drove it for 5 years with never really getting a good feel for the clutch, and it felt like i could never predict where it released, it wasn't untill I drove a spec stage 2 clutch for my new clutch (when i got boosted) is when i finally felt like i learned how to drive a car, because the release point was so quick.

After i shreaded that clutch, i went for a Centerforce which was even more aggressive then the spec stage 2, but what it came down too i could adapt faster by getting used to driving 1 clutch, and then getting used to a different one.

now i get in so many cars and they almost all feel the same too me, unless its a really stiff clutch to where the release point is prety strict.

Just my experience.. i used to complain about each of the clutches i ever owned all the time.. but you never really realize how nice your current clutch is untill you start trying out other ones. I have to admit tho... stock clutch for honda is by far one of the best i driven, and the easyest to adapt too.. which is so weird because iam so used to clutches that are designed for Tremec transmissions.

when you start going for performance clutches it starts to become hit or miss on the release style.. i had a spec stage 2, and the release was so close to the floor, an then the center force was really high up... but they both had the same type of forgiveness on release points (which was barely any forgiveness)

 

My first car was a Honda Accord (1992). It had a clutch that would engage when you had let the pedal ALMOST all the way out. it did mean that you didn't have to push it far to disengage the clutch, and it the travel on the clutch pedal was rather long.

As long as it engages when the pedal is all the way out and disengages when the pedal is at the floorboard, you'll get used to the difference. As with most cars, after about 6 months, your mind and muscle-memory will fully acclimate, and it will feel "normal" to you.

 

Out of the 6 manual transmission cars I've owned, the Fit is the hardest to drive smooth. The whole thing is like playing a video game. Disconnected pedals, light throttle, numb clutch uptake, rev hang, etc.

 

Get a throttle controller and the accelerator pedal will work right and believe it or not what it doesn't fix you will get used to and in time not even notice it. Being able to hear the engine also helps to adjust so think about an intake or exhaust change.

 

Every Honda I have owned the clutch pedal never had to be pressed down to the floorboard to disengage the clutch. What you need to find is the point where you don't need to press the pedal any further to disengage the clutch and go from there. I think maybe many people are pushing to the floorboard unnecessarily and then complain about the clutch feel because they are applying the gas and the clutch has yet to engage with the pedal fully depressed. The best feel of clutch I had was with the Teggy 5R and even more so when I swapped out the clutch with a carbon ORC. The disengagement point was like 20mm of pedal travel, I loved it. Shifts were very quick and the layout of the pedals positioning was absolutely perfect for heel/toe when out doing gymkhana and touge. The Fit is not bad, but the pedal position could be better, but then again, this car was not made for ripping around circuits even though it has one of the best chassis' ever released by Honda.

 

I'm actually going to get a throttle controller, which I wasn't planning on doing when I bought the car. When browsing carview, I see that just about every Fit on there has one. I've always thought they were sort of novel, but after looking into it more, I think I "get it."

I wish I could make the car louder, but it's not really a possibility. I have a K&N panel, and am thinking about removing that air box resonator cover just so I can hear the engine with the a/c on. The Mugen exhaust might be in my future as well since it is seems quiet on youtube clips. Thanks for the suggestions!

 

I'm not sure I follow you here - is your complaint that:

- There's "rev hang," as in, the engine holds speed when upshifting more than you want?

- The rev drop going into second - first and second are too widely spaced?

- when letting go of the the clutch shifting into second, the engine is dropped too far out of its peak torque band, and it seems to lag?

The first would imply that the flywheel is heavier than you want.
The second is self-explanatory
The third - yeah, low displacement engine tuned for high end over low end...

In the automatic, the gears seem oddly spaced. 3-4-5 seem VERY close together, while 1-2 is a huge jump. It almost feels like a four speed with an extra gear inserted in between 3rd and overdrive. When merging into traffic, it often feels like there should be an extra gear between 1st and 2nd.

 

I don't understand either, do the revs hang or drop? Sounds very contradictory.

The big drop off from 1st to 2nd is because of the ratios used between the 2 combined with the final drive. The Japanese tranny ratios are different in 1st, 4th, 5th and final drive. We have a lower theoretical top speed of 133mph to the US model's 145, but 1st - 3rd should net an overall higher top speed in those gears with a lower rpm drop off going from 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th. From 3rd to 4th to 5th each drop still leaves the motor in VTEC when shifted at redline whereas no gear change in the US model leaves the engine in VTEC no matter if shifting at redline and the lowering of VTEC would be very beneficial as well as some slight altering of the fuel and ignition timing to compensate for the change in transition point or a slightly higher redline, but at least to 7200 and even this will only let the motor stay in VTEC from 4th to 5th.

 

What I like most about the the 10PSI high boost upgrade over the 5PSI base kit from Kraft Werks is that the Hondata reflash has altered the VTEC timing, upped the rev limiter to 7200, eliminated the speed governor as well as changing the A/F ratios and ignition timing to handle the added boost without melting down.

 

It took me only about 500 miles to get used to it. BTW, the Yaris I test drove was very similar. Having owned a 1971 Chevy pickup with sloppy mechanical linkage and several rear engined VW's with a long cable, the Fit is by far the easiest to drive. Rev "hang" is due to emissions tuning. The old VW had a vacuum device that really hung the throttle open.

 

The rev hang thing does exist and has even on 70cc Honda Passport motorbikes of the early 80s.... The Fit would be much more responsive with a lighter flywheel but the rev hang thing is in the drive by wire thing I am pretty sure as a means of emission control or possibly due to the length of the intake runners or a little bit of both.... I think one of the problems that affects acceleration is the large diameter heavy wheels and wider than needed tires.... I reduced the rotating mass just under 10 lbs per axle by getting the lightest wheels I could find and using performance touring tires in the stock size and the difference amazed me.

 

[QUOTE=555sexydrive;865615]I don't understand either, do the revs hang or drop? Sounds very contradictory.

He means the revs stay up as he depresses the clutch. They don't drop like a lot of other MTs.

 

my s2000 has a stiffer (but smooth) clutch. has a lot more travel and a higher take-up/engagement point.

been drivin it for 4 years so i prefer it. i think the fit's travel is too small and engagement point is too low. obviously feels less grabby as well.

however, its an unfair comparison of a pure sports car to an economy sub-compact.


my old sentra se-r had a cable clutch, and changing the engagement point could be done in 30 seconds by adjusting the a control point in the engine bay. (i could do it by hand)

 

this statement is very true, i too have hade 6 stix in my driving time

 

There is a reason it's not set to engage at the floor. If it engages really close to or at the floor then the clutch might not be fully disengaging when the pedal is depressed. Same thing goes if its set too high, then the clutch might not be fully engaging, and either way it will lead to rapid clutch wear and more. There's a reason for the space between where the clutch rests unpressed, the engagement point, and the floorboard. I found the point at which the clutch grabs is very similar to the 4 other M/T Hondas I've owned. The feeling is not, and the electronic throttle control takes getting used to, but as far as how far up or down in the clutch pedal travel the clutch engages, its very consistent for Honda.

If you want to do it, you'll have to do a lot of playing around with adjusting the point, and testing, adjusting and testing back and fourth. By barely letting the clutch out you can feel where its engaging, but too close to fully depressed or not and you will have clutch wear, and transmission wear issues (if the clutch isn't fully disengaging you'll be working the synchros and gears overtime when you shift).

 

Well said Koala...
Yes Honda screwed us with a crappy transmission, with crappy gearing too. If it holds up to 200k I'll get over it though.