by all means continue....I guess my sarcasm didn't come across enough...lol

EDIT: Now I see why I used the wrong smiley!

 

the computer determines mileage by calculating a certain number of revolutions. The car also ONLY knows that 1 revolution of the FACTORY DIAMETER Wheel/tire combo is a certain distance (SAY, X feet - Mom is an algebra teacher and I was a math major... now computer geek). If you change the outer diameter of the wheel, the car is still seeing 1 revolution which it thinks is X Feet but is actually less (with a smaller diameter wheel) or more (with a larger diameter wheel).

Say the circumference of the wheel is 75.4" (Fit sport Stock Diameter). What the computer sees over 1000 revolutions is actually 75,400" or 6283' Drop the aspect ratio by 5 (go from a 185/55 to a 185/50) and you lose 2" in circumference. Drive the same 1000 revolutions and the computer still thinks you went 6283' but you actually only traveled 6092' Go up to a 205/50 and you are a hair over the stock size. but go to a 205/55 and you will have traveled 6516'. All this time, the computer is reading 1000 revolutions which it believes is 6283'

This throws off your speedo, odometer, and your warranty

This is why Trucks that are lifted and have over-sized tires have to have their Speedometers re-calibrated.

~SB

 

First off thanks for coming thu for me specboy - sorry to read you wrong bmxman - I'm a bit too literal at times and still trying to get used to this crowd. I came over from the Cadillac Owners forum.

An excellent group, I suggest every one here check them out. One forum group covering all Cadillac owners - I mean ALL. I really came to appreciate the way it's all organized, those guys are on top of it.

So back to the issue at hand - if I up-size my tires I will improve my GPM but the AVG readout will show a lower GPM than the stock tires indicated.

What those numbers will be is something that only a math pro could figure [and I thank you Mom], but am I correct in how I'm seeing it? You really left me behind with that driving the exact same route part BTW but that's ok. And I'm sure there's no tweeking the ECM.
K_C_

 

The Driving the same route: On Stock Tires, the same route over a period of time will essentially have the average same number of rotations (distance). when you shrink your tires ccircumference, you increase the number of rotations it takes to get there. The Car will think it is a further distance and you'll use more fuel to get there. (the engine will have to rotate the wheels more over the same distance) This however can be compensated for by chosing lighter wheels. (takes less effort to get the car up to speed/maintain speed.... but requires more rotations... it could potentially balance out... still killing your warranty mileage though)

~SB

 

Maintain OEM Rolling Radius - what's left.
Choose Design Rolling Radius - based on what's left. Recalculate System Variables. ECU
Weight
Rolling Resistance - ECONOMY
Tire
Tread Width - Footprint
Sidewall - Economy
Wheel - Style
Width
Diameter
Offset

K_C_

 

So I'm working on relocating my front license plate, hoping it will improve my cars aero...I go to take off the factory holder and the bracket has scratched a 2" line in my bumper right through the clearcoat and paint
I have never cursed Honda's name so loud. I love black cars but one scratch looks like a damn neon sign!!!!

 

Not quite sure what the Q is here. - it's been a long week so far.

~SB

 

hmmm...2 email to H-fit and no response...I guess I'll have to call them!

 

well got a hold of H-fit...turns out I was typing their email addy wrong...lol
They asked for my address and said they would send out a replacement part ASAP

 

lets hope u bought the manual tranny.....

u do not need the battery or starter to start the car

bump starting in 5th, at low speeds is even smoother than the electric starter!!!

 

if all you want to do is change out the rubber and install the aluminum spacer then you are wasting cash.

all u need to do is use longer mounting bolts and add a nut or 2 or washers between the shifting mechanism and the floor to suit what ever height you wish your shifter assembly to sit at (that's right....you can also increase [or decrease if one wished] the height of the entire shifting mechanism alongside solid shifting action!!)

voila!! solid shifter "bushings" for literally pennies or use stainless for just a few bux or even use titanium hardware for "fuel efficiency" at a cost that is still probably cheaper than buying any kit

 

The bolt goes through a sleeve in the rubber part, so it is surrounded. If you were to just put something between the assembly and the bolt holes on the car, it wouldn't change anything (if I am understanding you correctly.) You would need an insert for the bolt to go through, that is also the same diameter as the old bushing, which is exactly what H-fit sells. I have the updated design on there now, and I love it. They still might need to revise the new GE design a little bit, as mine is still touching in 3rd when I push on the gear lever. Very close tolerances. Works fine though, and makes driving a lot easier, besides the more obvious advantages because I can leave my arm on the armrest and just use my wrist to shift.

 

ok here are some numbers I have so far:
Stock F spring= 3.5lbs
Stock R spring= 2.4

Eiback Sportline F spring= 4.6
Eibach Sportline R spring= 3.6

Stock F rotor= 10.2
Powerslot F rotor= 10.2

Stock Air intake with mounting hardware= 5.5
I have not had a chance to weight my PRM intake yet.

Stock OEM wheels 16x6 w/ Dunlop SP Sport 7000 A/S 185/65/16= 37.8
Drag DR16 wheels 17x7 w/ Continental Extreme contact 205/40/17= 38.8
Volk CE28N wheels 15x7 w/ Toyo Proxes 4 205/50/15= 29.2

So far I have really only saved weight swapping out wheels. I did gain 31 extra KM`s per tank though once I swapped to lighter wheels and the intake.

 

I took off my stock muffler today and I actually like the sound. It's a lot quieter than I was hoping but I'm guessing the resonator has a lot to do with that. The muffler weighed in at 10.4lbs with exhaust flange and 2 mounting bolts. I ended up putting the muffler back after I took some temperature readings. It was heating the underside of the car quite a bit. I think my plan is to get a custom exhaust made from the cat back. Just straight tubing with a nice tip at the end. This weekend I'm going to take off everything from the cat back and see how the Fit does.

 

Yeah I bet it was hot, I was contemplating removing the muffler till my J's order arrives, but after looking at it, the damn exhaust would be dumping right on the rear brake line (rear brakes actually have 2 soft lines each side). So that wasn't going to happen, just wanted to hear how the L15 sounded with less restriction.

 

Ok so i contacted H-fit nearly a month ago about my defective Kit...they said they would send out a replacement ASAP! Well the mailman just came today and still nothing. Now I know sometimes things can take a while due to customs but not a small adapter that weighs less than 6oz.

Looks like I have to call H-fit again, but right now I don't have a lot of faith in the company.

 

Picked up some Mugen visors today and I saw a set of wheels I must have....the search in on!!

 

Hate to be the messenger but you expect too juch from doing so little. Its not that saving 600 pounds (273 kg) in weight won't get you another 60 miles per tank but it will be extremely difficult for you to reduce your Fit weight by even 200 pounds (90 kg) without compromising your family safety. After all, on an Integra that 600 lb is nearly 25% of the weight of the car.
Just isn't there unless you replaced the frame with lightweight aluminum, allsuspension parts with aluminum. and replace the seats with lightweight racing seats. Or you could strip the car and sandblast a couple hundred pounds off and reassemble tho safety is well and truly compromised.

You've got the right idea with lightweight wheels (hopefully < 10 lbs and lightweight tires which are more important), the K&N won't be that much help. but you don't have much working room. Even some aero help womn't be much gain.
Here's a better project thought:
add a couple or more batteries powering an electric motor to the front wheels via the engine flywheel belt; expect to recharge the 12v batteries overnite. eureka its a plug-in hybrid. Before you give up be aware it has been done with a 89 Geo Metro xfI. rAISED MPG FROM 50 TO 60 MPG BUT BEING A MANUAL SYSTEM TOOK A LOT OF DRIVER EFFORT. DO PUT AN AUTOMATIC POWER BREAK ON THE BRAKE PEDAL; THE ELECTRIC MOTOR DOES PROVIDE OPPOSITION TO THE BRAKES IF STILL POWERED.
CHEERS AND GOOD LUCK.

 

well yesterday driver side rear window switch stopped working!!! I think I may head to the dealer for my 1st oil change so they can fix all the problems I have accumulated in the last year or so....window switch, gas lid, arm rest...etc.

 

I just picked up some Mugen MR5 rims 15x6 w/ 45 offset, Mugen front bumper and Mugen mirror cover. I'm trying to find someone local who sells Odyssey batteries.