DIY: Denso IK22 spark plugs
#62
I've never had it on a dyno but I have a scan gauge that shows the amount of ignition advance or retard it is getting... There is more low end torque with higher advance that can be felt when going up a hill... Adding octane booster helps too. There is a pretty steep hill I have to go up on what has until recently been a private road. I can easily accelerate with very little throttle at 1500 RPM in 3rd gear with octane booster.. It is a little slower to pick up speed on it without the extra octane but I couldn't gain any speed at all with the stock plugs and had to always use 2nd gear... Without the KWSC kit I needed 2nd gear and 2000 RPM to be able to still accelerate.. I should get it on a dyno before I put a new intake manifold I have on it but since I already know to expect a loss of low end power with it I will probably not do it.. I generally accelerate over a known distance from 15MPH and punch it at the mailboxes and check the speedometer at the end of the fence line... I could get to 60 when stock, 70 with 5PSI and between 80 and 85 now depending on the wheels and ambient temperature.... If my butt dyno feels an increase in power I'm happy and that is more important to me than numbers on a piece of paper.... If there is ever a way for me to tune through the ECU then I'll pay for a dyno run... The Kids around here spend a fortune to get tuning time and drive 80 miles or more to do it. I have about 2 years on IK 22 plugs and they have been fine...It was 28 degrees one morning a few days ago when I went for a drive and I had to drive about twice the distance I normally do before the cold engine light went out but the plugs are fine
#63
None here. We've had a warm winter so not many days under 30 this year, but the car runs fantastic. It does seem to idle a little higher for longer and maybe takes a few seconds longer to warm up, but we let it idle for 15-20 seconds and then drive very gently through the neighborhood. Cold light is off by the time we make the 1/2 mile drive out to the main road.
#65
I'm no spark plug engineer, but I would think that the outside temperature has very little to do with the temperature rating of the spark plug. The temperature rating is for inside the combustion chamber itself. The outside temp isn't likely to affect this very much or for very long either. It likely ramps up and stays around the same temperature...
#67
I can't remember which is which but the one with wider gap is what would work best in a NA engine the tighter gap is what is recommended with boost...
#68
NGK website says this
The optimal firing end temperature is approximately between 500°C (932°F) and 800°C (1472°F). The two most common causes of spark plug problems are carbon fouling (< 450°C) and overheating (> 800°C).
Last edited by komafit; 02-15-2012 at 04:58 PM. Reason: add ngk
#69
The ambient air temp is not important to the running performance of the plug. However, the car has to get to running temp and a colder heat range plug can make it take longer. The reason this matters is you don't want the plug to get fouled while trying to get to operating temp. One heat range colder is not a problem in any normal ambient temp environment. It only becomes a problem if you are at extreme cold situations and the car takes too long to reach operating temp.
In short, the ambient temp IS important when choosing the heat range of the plug because the engine is started at ambient temp and has to reach operating temp before fouling the plug.
In short, the ambient temp IS important when choosing the heat range of the plug because the engine is started at ambient temp and has to reach operating temp before fouling the plug.
#70
The only time I have had a plug fouling problem using cold plugs except on air cooled engines with carburetors was on a BMW K100 RT at 20F.. It was a water cooled DOHC 1000 cc 4 cylinder that put out a little under 100 HP.. It had a lot of miles on it and the engine laid on its side with the head on one side and the crankshaft on the other.. I think those two things contributed to the problem.
#71
I also have a set of IK22, but wary of installing them. I'm from Toronto Canada and the winters here are harsh, to say the least.
I'll be keeping these plugs in the box until there's more info on them in this forum...wanna make sure they're ok for the winter time.
And this might come as a newbie question, but with the change of spark plugs, will I have to switch from regular to premium fuel?
I'll be keeping these plugs in the box until there's more info on them in this forum...wanna make sure they're ok for the winter time.
And this might come as a newbie question, but with the change of spark plugs, will I have to switch from regular to premium fuel?
#72
You'll get more ignition advance with premium and more than you are presently getting if you decide to stick with regular... I vaguely remember someone having a problem with them due to cold weather... Oscar Jackson replied to the guy that he shouldn't have a problem if he drives in a spirited manner, so you shouldn't have any problems doing likewise... There is a small hose that coolant flows through to the throttle body to warm the intake air so once the cold light goes off you're good to wind it out with the throttle pedal down... You will have a longer warm up period so if that is an inconvenience you may need to hold out until spring to install them...
#73
Don't worry about the cold weather thing, I put the plugs in, we get reasonably cold winters here in Pittsburgh, PA. We had a week of sub-zero temps and my Fit started and ran fine the whole time with no ill effects that I noticed, hope this helps.
#75
I will say that at my most recent AutoX I noticed that after I parked my car for a bit in the tech impound, it took it a few minutes longer to get up over 170 degrees F water temp then my fellow Fit's without the IK-22's...
I also turned in faster times But to be fair I've been doing it longer
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