tpms light bye bye
#1
tpms light bye bye
As many of you know, my fit came with tpms wheels, so I was anxiously awaiting the day to switch my alloys to aftermarket .i really didnt wanna switch the sensors everytime i switched the wheels that tpms light kills me lol so i came up with this from another forum
so now I have the TPMS sensor light on the dash gone by creating a PVC pipe small enough to put behind the seat, under the car inside the frame, or pretty much anywhere. Pictures at bottom of post.
Total expense: $12.00.
Here's what I did:
Grocery List:
Steps:
Warning: I am not responsible for any damage done to the sensors, your tools, your hands, or your brain (glue smell). I performed this modification for my own enjoyment and sanity.
Here are some pictures of the completed pipe. Enjoy!
ps. i have these for sale with screw on caps for $50 shipped if you guys dont wanna make them pm me for details
so now I have the TPMS sensor light on the dash gone by creating a PVC pipe small enough to put behind the seat, under the car inside the frame, or pretty much anywhere. Pictures at bottom of post.
Total expense: $12.00.
Here's what I did:
Grocery List:
- 3" PVC SCH.40 Pipe (about 4 to 4 1/2" in length)
- Two (2) 3" PVC SCH.40 End Caps
- One (1) Can Heavy Duty PVC Cement (glue) (green label - to contain pressure in tube)
- One (1) Small Valve Stem (yes, like for a tire)
- Optional: Bubble Wrap (to keep the sensors for clanging together)
- Fine Sand Paper
- Drill
- Drill Bit (size can vary depending on Valve Stem width)
- Jigsaw
Steps:
- Take the jigsaw and cut the 3" pipe down to about 4 to 4 1/2" in length. It can be longer if you would like.
- Sand down the ends where you cut the pipe so they are smooth to allow for a good bond to the end caps.
- Take the cement (glue) applicator and rub it around one end of the pipe and the inside wall of the end cap.
- Quickly put the end cap on, pushing it as far as you can onto the pipe. The cement sets quickly, so work fast.
- Cut the bubble wrap into strips long enough and wide enough to wrap around each sensor like a diaper. (around the plastic part)
- Wrap the bubble wrap around the plastic part, then tape it so that it stays around the sensor.
- Repeat this for each sensor. Set them to the side.
- Take the valve stem, and hold it up to a drill bit to find the right size. What you want is a bit that will allow the valve stem to be pushed through the end cap from the inside out, but small enough to stop it from passing all the way through. (You may want it a little snug when passing through so it will be a little tight on the valve stem.)
- Drill the hole in the end cap.
- Take the sand paper and smooth down the inside and outside of the end cap where you drilled the hole. On my end caps, there was writing. I sanded that down also to give a smooth surface. (see picture)
- Push the valve stem through from the inside out with the smaller end facing up, away from the end cap.
- Once in, make sure you are unable to pull it through with a reasonable amount of force.
- Slide each sensor into the pipe with the stem pointing up. Once all four are in, you may have to jiggle it to get them to settle better.
- Optional: If you would like, you may put extra bubble wrap at the end to make them fit snug.
- Take the cement (glue) applicator and rub it around the end of the pipe and the inside wall of the last end cap.
- Quickly put the end cap on, pushing it as far as you can onto the pipe. The cement sets quickly, so work fast.
- ATTENTION!!! Allow the cement (glue) to set and dry over night before filling with air. ATTENTION!!!
- Fill the pipe with air. It should take one to three seconds to reach +-30 psi.
- Check the pressure with a tire gage. You should be able to "trick" the system with anywhere from 25 to 30 psi.
Warning: I am not responsible for any damage done to the sensors, your tools, your hands, or your brain (glue smell). I performed this modification for my own enjoyment and sanity.
Here are some pictures of the completed pipe. Enjoy!
ps. i have these for sale with screw on caps for $50 shipped if you guys dont wanna make them pm me for details
#2
so i take it you tested it and it works with success?
the reason i ask is i was under the impression they also had
to be spinning. i guess.
i say this being done on the TRD forums but i never did it.
the reason i ask is i was under the impression they also had
to be spinning. i guess.
i say this being done on the TRD forums but i never did it.
#6
That was my first thought; building a pressure tank seems like using a shotgun to kill a mosquito.
#7
I haven't taken mine apart, but I think the indicator lamps are LEDs and, if so, are most likely mounted to a circuit board. If so, there are no "bulbs" to remove. Back to the black tape, I guess.
#8
okay i understand removing the light is easy. but doesn't that
still not defeat the purpose. cause even though you took out the
bulb the system still thinks you have no air. thus making some kind
of code to pop up in your computer which could cause other stuff
to happen. what if it affects abs or traction control etc..?
with this system the car is tricked into all is good. has no codes and
runs fine.
still not defeat the purpose. cause even though you took out the
bulb the system still thinks you have no air. thus making some kind
of code to pop up in your computer which could cause other stuff
to happen. what if it affects abs or traction control etc..?
with this system the car is tricked into all is good. has no codes and
runs fine.
#13
When I first started reading this I thought it was directions on how to make a pipe bomb. I'm glad it's not
I think I would spend the extra few bucks on sensors though. But this is a very ingenious idea. Way to think outside the box!
I think I would spend the extra few bucks on sensors though. But this is a very ingenious idea. Way to think outside the box!
#15
x2 ur right.
it's not as easy as people say. just get another set of
tpms sensors and your set. it's not that easy cause every time you
switch wheels you have to go to the dealer and pay to have them
synced to your car. at dealer rates thats a lot of money.
this idea is far better and cheaper. especially for the people in the
north that like to switch to winter treads. or track days
#16
okay i understand removing the light is easy. but doesn't that
still not defeat the purpose. cause even though you took out the
bulb the system still thinks you have no air. thus making some kind
of code to pop up in your computer which could cause other stuff
to happen. what if it affects abs or traction control etc..?
with this system the car is tricked into all is good. has no codes and
runs fine.
still not defeat the purpose. cause even though you took out the
bulb the system still thinks you have no air. thus making some kind
of code to pop up in your computer which could cause other stuff
to happen. what if it affects abs or traction control etc..?
with this system the car is tricked into all is good. has no codes and
runs fine.
its possible but doubtfull but ofcourse you never know. im not saying do it (take the bulb out) but ive rocked my tacoma like that since one of sensors went bad and i didnt want to spend 100 per sensor + getting it sync'd. since i did it i have not had one problem at all as far as everything you mentioned. ofcourse its a toyota haha so try at your own risk.
#19
sorry guys been working alot, tpms came back on, the wheels need to be spinning there is a battery inside of the sensor that turns off when it stops spinning i tried lol sorry for the late update, just lefted the light on lol i got used to it