According to the Honda website, the navi only comes in the automatic so I am not getting it. But I don't think I'd get it anyway. I may eventually settle for an after market unit. Also, with all the changing technology of smart phones, it's probably possible now (or in the near future) to have your navi right off your phone. But I have not checked into it so please forgive me if I am wrong.

As for the MP3s, I am going to wait to get the car and sort it out. And I know what you mean about the dealers. Some buyers actually enjoy the process of buying the car but not me. I will get multiple quotes via e-mail to start and then see how it goes from there. If you guys have any advice, feel free to chime in.

 

LOL. I'm not really into the Mac vs. PC battle. I just use my Mac because it's integral to our publishing business--and I do like Mac stuff in general. This iPod Touch is my first MP3 player (late to the game) and boy am I impressed with this little device! I especially like that I can get free wifi pretty much wherever I go and don't have to pay $$$ every month to use it.

 

I read through all this back in August when I was gearing up to purchase-

CarBuyingTips.com new car buying guide, avoiding dealer scams, new cars, used car buying

After getting all those battle points firmly in my brain, I was pleased to find I didn't really need to spew any of them out. Amazingly, I had a no bullshit salesman who actually made buying the car easy. The tough one was ME! LOL! I did however walk in with the 'folder'. And that folder actually had pertinent info. Whether that's truly a signal to a salesman I don't know, but it showed that I at least had my shit together. I was amazed to see how many people just sit down cold and buy a car. No info, no folder, no nothing. Not me. If I need to produce a form, I usually have it. And I needed them because I did a cash for clunkers deal.

Anyway, I did only a few things really, before going and dealing.

- emailed for quotes
- got my credit score
- secured financing through my own bank at a very good rate

I knew what to reasonably expect price wise for my area, my budget and what my payments would be before I sat down. Email quotes only generated phone quotes- a dealer will call and follow up on an email quote if they are interested in selling the car. Then it's just a matter of knowing what you can afford and getting the car at that price. I made sure the dealer understood- the figure we came to was the out the door price, period. No extra bullshit at the last minute. I told him "I wish I could afford more but I can't." He chukled. That's a buyers line, I know. I went to two dealers and settled on the second one. The first one, which was closest to me wasn't interested in working with me. Bye bye, although that's where I test drove the car. Second dealer was great. I told him what I had as a down payment and what I could afford to buy the car for- [500 less than my ceiling].

You mentioned you've test driven the Fit. Have you talked price with them?

Anyway, it's not all too much of a pain if you know where your credit stands and you know what you can absolutely afford for the monthly nut. That's not to say you should work a deal from a monthly payment standpoint if you're financing through them, which I wanted to avoid and did. It's just knowing what your payments will be per month, and that's why securing financing before hand is great. Knowledge of YOUR financial situation is king. And securing a great loan rate before hand makes for less contemplation at the table. Not too hard really. They want to sell the car, you want to buy it. If you and sales can make that happen, beautiful thing. Good luck!

Dan

 

Dan,

This is great advice. I will be getting my folder together before I go in.

No, I made sure not to talk any prices when I test drove. I just kept telling the sales folks that I am not committed to the Fit yet so no point in talking price. They seemed to get the message and I did not get any hassles.

I am insisting on true OTD price quotes (including sales tax, DMV, etc) and I will take the e-mail quote with me in my folder in case the prices change. I am the type to walk out if shenanigans ensue. I am probably atypical in that I'd rather pay a little more and deal with a straight shooter than be jerked around to try and save $100 on a car purchase.

 

Good show ! I suspect you got a seasoned salesperson. New ones know only the organization taught process involving start high , tag on as much as possible, etc.
And yes the folder counts, especially if you expose things like NADA, Edmunds, KBB, Autotrader, and the like data. And in the salesman's defense when they come upon a prpared customer and sales are tough, making the deal is so easy its worth an extra cup of coffee. Easy commission. Unless they find out - and they will - you faked the data. (its been done and that cat paid an extra tousand for his vehicle)
Anyway again good show. nice to know there are intelligent buyers. cheers.

 

I'm 59 and previously drove a 1990 Isuzu Trooper for the past 19 years. Although stone cold reliable,the Trooper was like driving a truck. Ultra stiff and noisy. My new 09 Sport is head and shoulder's above the Trooper in comfort, amenities and quiet. The only issue I have is how low to the ground the Fit is. With the Trooper, hopping over curbs and other obstacles was no problem, After all it was a dedicated 4-wheel drive. I really have to watch getting out of my driveway with the Fit and take it slowly at an angle to avoid scraping. Other than that the amenities, comfort and handling are commendable.

 

Shockwave199 provides excellent advice on car buying, especially the part about doing your homework and bringing in a folder of information, which provides a signal to the salesman.

Most published guides to buying a car are boring reading. Both informative and entertaining is the series of articles on Edmunds.com, "Confessions of a Car Salesman." As well as giving you an insider's perspective on the technicques these guys (overwhelmingly male, although there are a few women in car sales) use to stay in control of the sales process, as well as the pressures that they are under. It's not a job I would want.

 

Yes, I noticed that right away and it's something I have to be careful with. The front on the Sport is low and I have a habit taking the wheels right up against the little concrete stops or curb when I pull the car in head first. I must cease and desist from that. The fit is so short that there is really no need to pull it in snug anyway.

 

Another downside is my Fit qualifies me for FEV parking close to the building so I don't get as much exercise.

 

I am actually on my 2nd FIT, someone totaled my 08 2 months ago. I went right out and bought another. I like the way it drives and looks, the seats don't bother me, I'm 5'10". I don't notice the noise much on the highway because I'm usually listening to my Ipod or Sirius radio. By comparison, my wife has a Kia Spectra and I do believe they build good cars and her dealer is excellent, but she has had it for a little over 2 years and has 60,000 miles on it. In a lot of ways, it just feels like it's wearing out too quick. It is smother and quieter but I prefer driving mine even when her's was new. I've already replaced tires, battery, brakes(twice), and one caliper on her's. My previous Hondas have never needed things like that so soon but that's just my opinion.

 

I thought I posted this earlier today but it hasn't shown up, so here goes again.

I got some good quotes and I am very close to making a deposit. I have some questions for those of you who have purchased a car recently.

- When I go to the dealer to put a deposit down on the car, do they have the car located already (of all the dealers that quoted, nobody has it on the lot) or are they taking the deposit with the promise of finding the car I want? I ask because I would like to get VIN and odometer reading on the paperwork if that is normal and reasonable.

- What do you think is a reasonable time to allow the dealer to get the car in?

- What about the deposit? I am thinking $500 should do it. What do you think?

- I am paying cash for the car with no trade in. The dealer is handling the MV registration and plates. What paperwork (including dealer paperwork, MV, etc) should I expect to see and sign? I'd like to have a checklist when I get there.

Maybe I am being paranoid but I really don't like last minute surprises.

Thanks again for you help.

 

You should have a pretty straightforward deal. Some dealers have been known to jack prices with a large "documentation fee," which may be negotiable if you push back. Now that the CARS side effects have worn off, 2010 Fits should be in good supply. Keep in mind that salesmen are often more willing to deal near the end of the month, when they are trying to make sales quota.

 

I've already got a price that I am happy with via e-mail (including doc fees, plates, reg, taxes, etc). I made it clear that I wanted an OTD price that includes everything. What I want to find out is about the process of sealing the deal as smoothly as possible when I go in with my deposit. Haven't bought a new car since for ever so I am not up on the latest.

 

Sounds like you've got a HUGE leg up on the situation. You've done your homework, have all the data in hand, and have a solid OTD quote from the dealer. The only thing left that I can think of will be their last ditch effort to tack on accessories and an extended warranty. Once your car is ready for pickup, and the dealer is done trying to sell you stuff, they will take you into a room with the finance manager to close the deal.

In my case this meeting was actually videotaped and seemed like some sort of mandatory time share meeting...he went out of his way to play with numbers and offer (warranty) discounts and everything else to get me to buy more. I politely declined everything, signed my papers and was on my way.

Reminds me of going to Jiffy Lube for an oil change....if you just pull up and say you would like an oil change, eventually they will attempt to sell you differential and coolant flushes, injector cleaning, new wiper blades, the works. All you have to do is say "just the oil change", which saves a lot of hassle. Honda may be required to formally offer at least some sort of warranty protection, but other than that just be up front with them that you are not interested in anything more than the car.

 

The internet car deal is the best! I did that with my 2003 Acura CL. They got the car in within a couple days. Had it ready when I showed up and I was probably only there about a half hour to 45 minutes.

They will run you through the paperwork and offer you credit life etc. Sounds like you have a real easy transaction lined up.

 

I'd offer $100 deposit after asking how long to get delivery. I'd think with stock rolling east these days it'd be less than a month and ideally under 2 weeks.

Driver's license and proof of insurance is all I'd worry about taking with me at delivery. Your checkbook might come in handy.

Let them worry about what you have to sign. And yeah, tell the finance guy no thanks on all the service and warranty crap. After about 30 seconds of that I just said, "Can we cut to the chase? I'm not interested in any warranties or service contracts." He wasn't offended and we concluded the paperwork in a couple minutes.

 

Do NOT take your check book, nor give them cash for the deposit. Put the DEPOSIT on a credit card. This way, in the unlikely chance they jerk you around you can dispute the charge with the credit card company. You give them a check, it's cashed and gone- nothing you can do at that point if the deal goes south. The only thing you should be paying is a 500 deposit at the table, period. Nothing more until the car is in and you're in front of it. Try for less, but it'll be 500 bucks for the deposit. You'll be signing off on a PO and giving them that deposit. Don't sign that PO until you read through it line by line with your sales person. Make sure it's the car you want with or without what's been promised to you- color and all- all LEGABLE, not scribble. Ideally, you want the VIN number of your car on that PO. I wouldn't give any money or sign a thing unless they can tell you the VIN number of the car. Otherwise, you're just depositing on a car that will be in sometime or another- not YOUR car. The VIN number is important because if you're shopping for car insurance, they need it to give you an accurate quote. So, a VIN number on your PO is the best case because you know it's your car coming in- not some car. Dealers can locate the car while you're at the table. Deposit and sign off on a real car with a VIN number.

A lesson learned by me- ASK how the car will be arriving at the dealer, by car carrier or driven. I failed to confirm that detail and my car was driven to my dealer and I received it with mileage to the tune of 190 miles on it. That's freakin high. I said it's a damn used car at that point! All this, after the fact and nothing I could do about it. The car has been a perfect gem regardless, but confirm this detail. If it's far away, try and get something for your inconvenience- like floor mats, etc.

That's all you need to do for the first round- put down a deposit on a credit card and sign off on the PO for your car. I waited for my car for a week, if I'm remembering right. Not long. The minute the car is in, get insurance right away for it- before you go buy the car. Have the insurance DEC page faxed to you, so you have it at the table at the dealer. They will handle the DMV paperwork at a price. I think mine was around 80 bucks. Don't overpay for that. The DEALER will send you via mail the reg for your car, so be on the lookout for it within a month after purchase- usually in three weeks. Until then they give you a temp sticker.

When the car comes in, go over every square inch outside and in. Look for any cosmetic problems, which they'll probably be none. If the car is driven to the dealer, get on your knees and look at the AC condensor and confirm it's clean and in good shape. Do a search here and read up on the front grill mod for the AC condensor to know more about what I'm saying. Just give the car a thorough once over before sitting down to finalize the purchase.

When you sit down with the financial closer, you'll probably have no trouble with sneaky extras shit, but they may ask or offer- especially the extended warranty. That's your choice. I passed- it IS a Honda! They'll probably offer the new car price on it for up to 30 - 60 days, should you wish to purchase it later.

I wiped at the moment- this is all I can remember for now. Keep us posted how things progress. It's more than likely you'll have a smooth transaction with no trouble. Dealers like to make the customer happy, not screw them...in general...the good ones.

Dan

 

Know-N, Where are you located?

I'm in VT and picked up my TW fit Sport at the very beginning of C4C (we didn't do the C4C deal but that's when we got ours). I talked with the Sales guy one week, gave him the ultimatum on what I was willing to spend (and let them keep as profit while trading in my altima) Gave them a week to figure out if they wanted me as a customer (again - got the ridge there) and when they called, they said let's talk. Went back the following weekend and they agreed to my deal. Deal was, if I put down $500, they would find me the car I wanted (didn't have any Sport 5MT on the lot). I said fine but I wanted White or Orange, white Preferable. In 10 miuntes they told me there were 4 white and 12 orange nearby and I said, make some calls. they told me the next day they had secured a car 180 miles away in white. 4 Days later it was in my driveway.

We went into the dealer to sign the paperwork and they showed us the different extended warranty packages. We picked up the base 90K mi warranty with Roadside assistance, we opted not to Renew our AAA and the warranty/roadside is costing us about $8 more a month once all is said & Done. we were getting back money from the 100K extended warranty on the Altima so we figured we'd put some of that towards extended coverage on the Fit.

Paperwork took about 1/2 hour, the Dealer called my insurance, (Progressive), Put me on the phone to verify my info and then they took care of the rest since I was essentially transferring coverage from the Altima to the Fit. (no policy changes, just vehicle change). Said goodbye to the altima (but saw it on the lot for about 2 months after we traded - for exactly what I told them they could put it out for - my bargaining tool) and now it's gone.

~SB

 

Guys, this is stupendous advice. Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much. The dealer has been great so far, so I am not spoiling for a fight. I just like to play defense (that's the way I drive too).

Anyway, the same dealer that provided all the test drives and treated me the best also came in with the best price. I asked them to put everything into the quote including all dealer fees, conveyance and finder fees, and of course, sales tax, and they obliged. I just need to pass on the extended warranties when I get there and all should be well.

Dan, thanks for the tip about the mileage too. I will definitely ask about locating the car while I am there and also about whether it will be driven or trucked to my dealer. I need to look up the AC condenser thing because I don't know what that is about.

I'll get back to you sometime this coming week with an update. Wish me luck.

 

Could you please identify the dealer? Good dealers need recognition. I had a similar experience with Martin Honda in Newark, Delaware last summer; in fact, after we closed, I told the salesman this had been the pleasantest new car buying experience I had ever gone through -- no surprises, no pressure.