I just may have one of the highest-mileage '09 Fits around (Car was purchased in October '08 in Calgary and has been to Vancouver once, San Diego once, New Brunswick twice (where I now reside), PEI once, Nova Scotia twice and Washington DC once) so here's a maintenance/reliability report thus far:

- 5 oil and filter changes (Castrol Syntech full-synthetic oil and Napa (Wix) filters (NEVER Fram).

- One air filter change.

- One air-cond. filter purchased but not yet changed. (anyone know where this filter is installed and how accessible it is?)

- One windshield replaced by insurance at $1700. (I paid the $100 deductible).

- One fog light lens cracked on drivers' side. (I've repaired with clear vinyl protectant film until an aftermarket source can supply a replacement at a more reasonable price than Honda will).

- Replaced tires with 205-50-R16s after a pothole caused bulges in three of the originals at 30,000 kms. The plastic skid plate attach point at the aft end under the left side of the engine was cracked in this same incident. Must fix, even though it is still functional.

Bought a set of Honda stamped-steel 15" rims for the set of winter tires I'm about to buy for the car tomorrow. No sense running those nice factory mags in the snow, ice and salt.

- 12V power outlet at base of console is now in-op as of very recently. May be a blown fuse, but I've so far been unable to locate which one. Owners' manual is not very clear on this, and even though there is mention of a second fuse box in the engine bay, the only fuse panel I've been able to locate thus far is the one on just above the lower left kick panel. None of the fuses appear to be labeled "12V power outlet."

- Last week the engine warning light came on while I was in DC and then went out today. No apparent reason for this, and the car continued to run fine. I thought it might be a warning for scheduled maintenance, but according to the owners' manual that warning was supposed to come up on the maintenance-minder screen as a number 1 or 2 depending on maintenance items due. None of these indicators have come up yet though, even at almost 30,000 miles. Go figure. Is this normal?

- When the engine is cold it tends to start on the third of fourth flop rather than the first. This has been going on since the first few weeks of ownership. But once warm it starts as soon as I turn the key. I *think* this is normal.

Other than the above this seems to be a very reliable car with none of the issues and glitches common to new domestic makes. Oil consumption is nil, performance is bang-on and the car still feels tight and free of squeeks and rattles. Even the brake fluid is still clean.

 

Interesting point on the cold start. Same here...instead of "flip/flop, flip/flop varoom" it's become "flip/flop, flip/flop, flip/flop, flip/flop varoom" Muscle memory had me backin' off the key at a point i never thought about, then one day the engine no longer started when my hand would instincively back-off.

I guess you haven't changed the engine coolant yet...or is it even close to that time...? Just curious about which anti-freeze folks are using. The owner's manual says to only use Honda coolant, if other brands are used, then flush it out as soon as possible, and replace with "genuine Honda anti-freeze." Eh....really? I'm skeptical...what say you?

 

Good write-up! How's the clutch been holding up?

 

I was told Honda uses "world coolant" instead of the Dexcool type long life coolant that goes bad and ruins engines. Apparently this "world coolant" is available at stores like Advance Auto and Autozone. My mechanic advised replacing the Dexcool stuff in my Chevy 2500HD and my mother-in-laws Taurus with it before we have problems.

 

Thanks! Clutch has been holding up just fine, still feels new. From past experience, a clutch that's not abused can last over 150,000 miles. But one that's mis-used or flat-out tortured can go as early as 20,000 miles, maybe even less.

Coolant is still original. With mileage racked up on long hauls like this there are far fewer heat cycles (warming up from cold and then cooling down again) than there would be for cars with half the mileage but driven only short distances per day). Still, even though Honda's motives for insisting on buying "ONLY HONDA COOLANT" may be ulterior in nature (a possible escape route from a warranty claim perhaps?) there's no question that if this new coolant differs from what has previously been standard in the industry it would be wise to use the "Honda" coolant, at least until an after-market equivalent that states "meets all warranty requirements" is available.

Still, the onus is on the dealer network and manufacturer to prove that a warranty-related failure was caused by improper maintenance/parts installed before denying a claim. In other words, they can't deny your busted crankshaft claim because you installed an after-market fart-can muffler.

Has anyone else had their engine warning light come on with no apparent anomalies in performance?

 

By "air conditioning filter", I assume you mean the cabin air filter. Changing it is really easy. Unload the glove compartment (the lower one), and press in on the sides to release the bin from the dashboard. The glove compartment bin will swing down, and if you look in the opening behind the glove compartment, you will see a drawer. Press on the edges of the drawer to release it and pull it out. The cabin air filter is inside the drawer. It's easy and only takes a minute to do.

 

Yup, that would be the one. I looked under the dash on that side but didn't see it. I'll get on it after supper. Thanks. Now if I can just find the fuse for the 12V power supply outlet, assuming that's what caused it to fail.

Oh, and one more point: I change my oil when the oil life-remaining indicator reads 60% remaining (not 60% used up, ie: 40% remaining) The first change I let go until 50% remaining, but the visual state of the oil at that time told me that Honda's oil life cycle may be just a tad optimistic---- often enough oil changes to get the engine well past warranty and keep customers, but not often enough to make the engine last "too long" and hurt sales in that direction.

 

Remember that your "break in" oil has additives to it that make the oil seem dark even off the showroom floor. I too was skeptical, but i guess reading over the owners manual made me think twice.

 

I bought my 09 fit the last week of May 09, and I'm about to hit 15,000miles. I'll be passing your number here soon enough during my 3,700mile/month commute.

 

Holy crap, is that one way or round trip? And how often?

 

Yup, I noticed that when I pulled out the dipstick the day after I bought it. But at 10,000 kms (6000 miles) it was not only black but also contaminated with the usual break-in shavings. At that point the life-remaining meter read 50%, and break-in period oil consumption had dropped to nil, where it remains.

 

Here is a pic of the fuse box. Maybe someone can identify the one you need to check. The white thing in the bottom right next to the yellow and red fuses is the fuse puller. Just squeeze and pull to remove it.

 

Hey thanks. I don't know how I missed the fuse puller at the bottom--- I assumed the one in the glove box was it until I tried it on these ones and found it to be the wrong puller.

I did find the under-hood fuses (under the red cover that's over the positive battery terminal--- so small that I at first didn't recognize it as a fuse box) and I already knew about the under-dash fuse box pictured above. The only two fuses that looked like they *might* be the correct ones for the 12V power outlet were #'s 12 and 13. But when I pulled them they checked out serviceable.

Now that I know where the proper fuse puller is I'll check all the others just for grins. If it's not one of those I'll have to assume it's a warranty issue and pay Honda a visit. thanks again.

 

Have fun. I do know the one for radio,dome light and door lock is under the orange thingy on the top left. I blew that one adding some lights.

bill

 

What about the rest of the car? No sense running that nice factory fit in the snow, ice and salt.

 

It is mostly plastic so will not rust - lol Mine will sit in driveway on those real sloppy days and I will drive my Dodge Caravan. Being retired I can be choosy when I want to go to Wal-Mart or Crappy Tire

Aviator - how much did you pay for your rims? I take it you got them at a dealer? Supposedly my dealer will have a deal on rims and tires later this Fall.

bill

 

I paid $81 each for mine, plus an extra buck-fifty or so for each valve stem, which were not included with the rims.

Yeah, I know--- this dealer gouged me (list price I heard elsewhere was supposed to be $65 each, but I'm not sure if that was in Canada or the states where it would have been cheaper anyway) but I didn't want to wait for them and then get caught in the rush for mandatory winter treads in October/November. You can probably get a better price in Ontario where there's more competition than I paid here in Fredericton.

I then went to Walmart for the winter tires (no sense springing for performance treads when driving in conditions where "performance driving" can get you seriously killed), which cost a grand total of just under $330 for four tires installed, balanced, taxed and enviro-levied. If winter tires are mandatory in your province get 'em before they're all gone. Seriously. They were certainly disappearing fast where I live.

As for parking my Fit for the winter, that's not what economy cars are for. I'll be selling mine in five years and buying another anyway.

 

I just called my dealer. Wheels and Michelins installed are $821 + tax plus $24 Environment. Almost $950. Wheels are $61 each + tax. So about $276 for the wheels. I think I will get the wheels and go elsewhere for the tires. Maybe Crappy, WalMart or local tire dealer I have dealt with before. Tire size they put on is 175x65x15.

Snows are not mandatory here but the other provinces do drain the supply so I will be getting mine very soon.

bill

 

Excellent price on those rims. For winter tires I'd go to walmart though vs. crappy tire---- Walmart services the tires they sell free of charge, ie: if you get a puncture they'll fix, and if it's in a location that can't be patched or plugged they'll replace. I went with 185-65R-15. But 175s would certainly work and (being narrower) may even provide better traction in snow than the 185s.

 

I saw post about cold starts, and having to turn over several times before start. It may be totally unrelated to your problem, but for any one reading this remember:
The ignition is not made to plug the key in and instantly just throw in to start. The fuel pump,line,rail must pressurize (you can hear this if your quiet). If you will switch to the run position for a second and wait your car will start better when you hit the ignition. The is more prominent on thirstier V engines(dual fuel rail) . I had a 300zxTT that you would swear had problems if you did not let the pump finish its "wirrrrring" noise before hitting the fire. On many expensive sport cars the start up is automated, and can take a couple seconds just to get ready for ignition. Give your car one second in run, and it will pay you back. My fit always starts on first turnover every time, but I live in the south US with mild winters.