GD3 Mugen Sport Suspension on the GE8
#42
Yeah, it's definitely something with the anti-roll bar, I taped my iPhone to different places on the front end, and it's coming from either the end links, or the anti-roll bar.
I've gotta fix this before I put the poly bushings on the front anti-roll bar, otherwise it'll be impossible to find. We'll see if the stainless steel washers on the upper end link mount works.
If anyone knows of someone about to get rid of some GD end links, tell them I need them.
I've gotta fix this before I put the poly bushings on the front anti-roll bar, otherwise it'll be impossible to find. We'll see if the stainless steel washers on the upper end link mount works.
If anyone knows of someone about to get rid of some GD end links, tell them I need them.
#43
if its the end links... you should be able to hear it when you shake them... hold the sway bar still and shake the end links at each end... if it doesnt make a noise then shake the sway... although i doubt its the sway, unless you took the bar out if the mounts...
#44
The end links don't rattle anymore, not after I put some Stainless Steel washers on the part where it mounts to the struts. I've been doing what you suggested, pulling on the wheel and seeing if it rattles, and it doesn't.
I compared the GD end links to the GE endlinks, and the GD end links are much shorter, probably about an inch. With the lower ride height, and the strut-mounted end links, I have a feeling I need to get some shorter end links.
The rattle/click/tap doesn't bother me as much as it used to.
I compared the GD end links to the GE endlinks, and the GD end links are much shorter, probably about an inch. With the lower ride height, and the strut-mounted end links, I have a feeling I need to get some shorter end links.
The rattle/click/tap doesn't bother me as much as it used to.
#46
I notice that the Fit GE has spring rates of F1.7k / R 2.0k and the GD has spring rates of F 3.1 / R4.9. Mugen must be harder than stock.
When I bought my BC Coilovers for my GE the standard springs were F5k / R4k which I thought were going to be way too hard. Anyway, after fitting I found out that they weren't too hard just firm.
How come there is such a big difference in spring rates on the GE between Stock and my coilovers, but the springs don't feel it while driving.
Now that you have GD Mugen suspension on a GE does your car really feel hard and bumpy or just firm?
When I bought my BC Coilovers for my GE the standard springs were F5k / R4k which I thought were going to be way too hard. Anyway, after fitting I found out that they weren't too hard just firm.
How come there is such a big difference in spring rates on the GE between Stock and my coilovers, but the springs don't feel it while driving.
Now that you have GD Mugen suspension on a GE does your car really feel hard and bumpy or just firm?
Last edited by Lek; 09-13-2009 at 09:08 AM.
#47
Just firm and responsive. My mother stock BMW 328i sedan is a rougher ride. My coworker who drives a 2004 M3 coupe says that his is probably 3x rougher than the fit.
I don't have spring rates, but I can tell it's much more stiff than the stock, because of the way it handles rumble strips, buzz-bars, speed bumps, and pop-up barriers (I work on a military installation.) When I go over a pop-up barrier, the front feels a little stiff, but when the rear goes over it.... Wow, talk about a stiff rear end. It's like the rear is solid-mount.
I'm not saying a nice stiff rear won't be good on the track, but I have a feeling it's not the best for on-the-street driving. Passengers in the rear tend to complain about the stiffness, even though it's not as bad as a BMW.... I just say it's a little car, and bumps are big in relation to such a little car.
I don't have spring rates, but I can tell it's much more stiff than the stock, because of the way it handles rumble strips, buzz-bars, speed bumps, and pop-up barriers (I work on a military installation.) When I go over a pop-up barrier, the front feels a little stiff, but when the rear goes over it.... Wow, talk about a stiff rear end. It's like the rear is solid-mount.
I'm not saying a nice stiff rear won't be good on the track, but I have a feeling it's not the best for on-the-street driving. Passengers in the rear tend to complain about the stiffness, even though it's not as bad as a BMW.... I just say it's a little car, and bumps are big in relation to such a little car.
Last edited by awptickes; 09-13-2009 at 01:32 PM.
#49
I'm glad I don't have to air-up the tires in the rear anymore to stiffen the rear-end. This suspension makes me happy.
The brake line brackets I need are:
46428-SLN-A00
46429-SLN-A00
I'm going to order them tomorrow at my local honda dealership.
The brake line brackets I need are:
46428-SLN-A00
46429-SLN-A00
I'm going to order them tomorrow at my local honda dealership.
#51
GD has spring rates of F 3.1 / R4.9
Last edited by Lek; 09-13-2009 at 08:39 PM.
#52
No, it doesn't rattle anything in the car that didn't rattle before. If I have wrenches in the trunk, they'd rattle normally, so I don't see a big change. I haven't noticed a big difference in noise, just handling and high speed stability.
#53
Just picked up a local car magazine and I saw Fit GE Mugen sports suspension. I called the company and they wanted $1,100 for everything including installation.
I still think a good full coilover kit would be better value and do a better job.
I still think a good full coilover kit would be better value and do a better job.
#54
Yes, there is a GE8 mugen suspension, but the GD was cheaper because I could find it used. I'm happy with what I got for the money I spent. All in all, I didn't spend much more than it would have cost for a cheaper adjustable coilover setup.
But, with an adjustable coilover setup, you would be able to corner weigh the car, and change weight distribution. I suppose I could get it corner weighted with some shims, but that could take a day or two or three or maybe more to do, so I won't bother.
Personally, I prefer swapping non-adjustable parts, then never having to worry about them again. I don't have the desire to change ride height, again, personal preference, your mileage may vary.
But, with an adjustable coilover setup, you would be able to corner weigh the car, and change weight distribution. I suppose I could get it corner weighted with some shims, but that could take a day or two or three or maybe more to do, so I won't bother.
Personally, I prefer swapping non-adjustable parts, then never having to worry about them again. I don't have the desire to change ride height, again, personal preference, your mileage may vary.
#59
I got the GD3 brake line brackets. Short story: You need the GD3 brake lines too. :/
I was able to bend them to work for the ABS sensor, so it wasn't that big of a deal, but the brake lines are a little taut. Not sure how long it'll last. Next thing I order is GD3 brake lines. I'll take pictures of it tomorrow.
The GD3 end links fit like a charm. They are about an inch shorter than the GE8 end links. I'll see tomorrow if they get rid of the banging noise....
I was able to bend them to work for the ABS sensor, so it wasn't that big of a deal, but the brake lines are a little taut. Not sure how long it'll last. Next thing I order is GD3 brake lines. I'll take pictures of it tomorrow.
The GD3 end links fit like a charm. They are about an inch shorter than the GE8 end links. I'll see tomorrow if they get rid of the banging noise....