should i buy a salvage fit?
#63
You are right though...the car has been bought and it's a done deal. No need to post "I'd never buy a salvage" at this point. To each his own regarding salvage titles. Wish the guy luck at this point and be done with it...
#64
I thought it died a natural death yesterday Or the day before...
You are right though...the car has been bought and it's a done deal. No need to post "I'd never buy a salvage" at this point. To each his own regarding salvage titles. Wish the guy luck at this point and be done with it...
You are right though...the car has been bought and it's a done deal. No need to post "I'd never buy a salvage" at this point. To each his own regarding salvage titles. Wish the guy luck at this point and be done with it...
#65
yeah a mod should really lock this thread . i have NO regrets about buying my car. it's my sister's car, but it makes a great daily driver. for reference, just make sure you get everything checked out, and go with your gut . so far, ive put a good 500 miles on it and no problems whatsoever. no leaks, no transmission falling out, no unusual tire wear that i've been noticing. just make sure you get EVERYTHING checked out.
#66
it's a really big chance worth considering, but in the end it's what worked perfect. granted, i dont have a warranty, but it is a honda. with 6k on the clock, not much can possibly go wrong *knocks on wood.*
#68
Disagree. Looks like the same poster is here:
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2603535
Buying a salvage vehicle has importance as a general thread. As I said in my post, it might be fine to buy a salvage vehicle if it's already out of warranty and runs good and is cheap. My former car (as stated previously) was worth so little that any door ding would have "totaled" it. A door bang would not have affected the engine or brakes or transmission. It's just that it was old.
And it could have been fixed up. If I'd wanted to spend the money. Instead it went to the crusher.
That is very different than buying a practically new car that is a salvage vehicle. The practically new car was SO MESSED UP that it WAS NOT WORTH FIXING. Get it?
According to their insurance, the damage done to the vehicle would exceed it's value. Which means, that the car isn't worth it. It wasn't worth the 16-18K paid originally to fix it. I know there is depreciation. That means perhaps the car was not worth fixing for maybe 10-12K.
If the insurance company thinks it's not worth fixing, why would anyone want to BUY it for the price that the insurance company already said was not worth it?
How many people said "DO NOT BUY IT"?
If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.
A base hatch, not a sport hatch. Problems with alignment. Problems with the fog lights. Maybe the OP will be lucky and those will be the ONLY problems. Then again, THE CAR WAS TOTALED. The insurance company deemed it FUBAR. And it's a NEW car.
If the OP could sell it for HALF of what they paid, they'd be lucky.
Meanwhile, everyone else who bought one that was not salvage, bought new or used, that has a warranty, no problems that can't be checked/addressed by the dealership.
And if the OP didn't listen to many people on NOT buying the darn car, why would they listen to the new advice on how to fix the problem?
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2603535
Buying a salvage vehicle has importance as a general thread. As I said in my post, it might be fine to buy a salvage vehicle if it's already out of warranty and runs good and is cheap. My former car (as stated previously) was worth so little that any door ding would have "totaled" it. A door bang would not have affected the engine or brakes or transmission. It's just that it was old.
And it could have been fixed up. If I'd wanted to spend the money. Instead it went to the crusher.
That is very different than buying a practically new car that is a salvage vehicle. The practically new car was SO MESSED UP that it WAS NOT WORTH FIXING. Get it?
According to their insurance, the damage done to the vehicle would exceed it's value. Which means, that the car isn't worth it. It wasn't worth the 16-18K paid originally to fix it. I know there is depreciation. That means perhaps the car was not worth fixing for maybe 10-12K.
If the insurance company thinks it's not worth fixing, why would anyone want to BUY it for the price that the insurance company already said was not worth it?
How many people said "DO NOT BUY IT"?
If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.
A base hatch, not a sport hatch. Problems with alignment. Problems with the fog lights. Maybe the OP will be lucky and those will be the ONLY problems. Then again, THE CAR WAS TOTALED. The insurance company deemed it FUBAR. And it's a NEW car.
If the OP could sell it for HALF of what they paid, they'd be lucky.
Meanwhile, everyone else who bought one that was not salvage, bought new or used, that has a warranty, no problems that can't be checked/addressed by the dealership.
And if the OP didn't listen to many people on NOT buying the darn car, why would they listen to the new advice on how to fix the problem?
#69
Disagree. Looks like the same poster is here:
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2603535
Buying a salvage vehicle has importance as a general thread. As I said in my post, it might be fine to buy a salvage vehicle if it's already out of warranty and runs good and is cheap. My former car (as stated previously) was worth so little that any door ding would have "totaled" it. A door bang would not have affected the engine or brakes or transmission. It's just that it was old.
And it could have been fixed up. If I'd wanted to spend the money. Instead it went to the crusher.
That is very different than buying a practically new car that is a salvage vehicle. The practically new car was SO MESSED UP that it WAS NOT WORTH FIXING. Get it?
According to their insurance, the damage done to the vehicle would exceed it's value. Which means, that the car isn't worth it. It wasn't worth the 16-18K paid originally to fix it. I know there is depreciation. That means perhaps the car was not worth fixing for maybe 10-12K.
If the insurance company thinks it's not worth fixing, why would anyone want to BUY it for the price that the insurance company already said was not worth it?
How many people said "DO NOT BUY IT"?
If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.
A base hatch, not a sport hatch. Problems with alignment. Problems with the fog lights. Maybe the OP will be lucky and those will be the ONLY problems. Then again, THE CAR WAS TOTALED. The insurance company deemed it FUBAR. And it's a NEW car.
If the OP could sell it for HALF of what they paid, they'd be lucky.
Meanwhile, everyone else who bought one that was not salvage, bought new or used, that has a warranty, no problems that can't be checked/addressed by the dealership.
And if the OP didn't listen to many people on NOT buying the darn car, why would they listen to the new advice on how to fix the problem?
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2603535
Buying a salvage vehicle has importance as a general thread. As I said in my post, it might be fine to buy a salvage vehicle if it's already out of warranty and runs good and is cheap. My former car (as stated previously) was worth so little that any door ding would have "totaled" it. A door bang would not have affected the engine or brakes or transmission. It's just that it was old.
And it could have been fixed up. If I'd wanted to spend the money. Instead it went to the crusher.
That is very different than buying a practically new car that is a salvage vehicle. The practically new car was SO MESSED UP that it WAS NOT WORTH FIXING. Get it?
According to their insurance, the damage done to the vehicle would exceed it's value. Which means, that the car isn't worth it. It wasn't worth the 16-18K paid originally to fix it. I know there is depreciation. That means perhaps the car was not worth fixing for maybe 10-12K.
If the insurance company thinks it's not worth fixing, why would anyone want to BUY it for the price that the insurance company already said was not worth it?
How many people said "DO NOT BUY IT"?
If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.
A base hatch, not a sport hatch. Problems with alignment. Problems with the fog lights. Maybe the OP will be lucky and those will be the ONLY problems. Then again, THE CAR WAS TOTALED. The insurance company deemed it FUBAR. And it's a NEW car.
If the OP could sell it for HALF of what they paid, they'd be lucky.
Meanwhile, everyone else who bought one that was not salvage, bought new or used, that has a warranty, no problems that can't be checked/addressed by the dealership.
And if the OP didn't listen to many people on NOT buying the darn car, why would they listen to the new advice on how to fix the problem?
that's not even me?
i fixed my foglight problems weeks ago. it just turned out to be burnt bulbs. quick trip to autozone fixed that. i haven't had any problems so far. *knock on wood.* alignment problems? sounds like nothing a camber kit can fix. base hatch on a sport? mhm, besides the keyhole, what's the big problem? sure theres the keyhole, but if it really bothered me that much i could always bondo it off and paint it. seems like you're spreading false information. i haven't had a single problem so far and probably won't. as i said, i looked at the car VERY closely with a FINE eye as well as my mechanic. if you're not willing to take a chance, okay that's cool with you, but as i said, ZERO problems.
#73
that's not even me?
i fixed my foglight problems weeks ago. it just turned out to be burnt bulbs. quick trip to autozone fixed that. i haven't had any problems so far. *knock on wood.* alignment problems? sounds like nothing a camber kit can fix. base hatch on a sport? mhm, besides the keyhole, what's the big problem? sure theres the keyhole, but if it really bothered me that much i could always bondo it off and paint it. seems like you're spreading false information. i haven't had a single problem so far and probably won't. as i said, i looked at the car VERY closely with a FINE eye as well as my mechanic. if you're not willing to take a chance, okay that's cool with you, but as i said, ZERO problems.
i fixed my foglight problems weeks ago. it just turned out to be burnt bulbs. quick trip to autozone fixed that. i haven't had any problems so far. *knock on wood.* alignment problems? sounds like nothing a camber kit can fix. base hatch on a sport? mhm, besides the keyhole, what's the big problem? sure theres the keyhole, but if it really bothered me that much i could always bondo it off and paint it. seems like you're spreading false information. i haven't had a single problem so far and probably won't. as i said, i looked at the car VERY closely with a FINE eye as well as my mechanic. if you're not willing to take a chance, okay that's cool with you, but as i said, ZERO problems.
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...tml#post682338
And it's obvious it's a base hatch, and your keys don't work. That IS a problem. That nobody who buys a car from a dealership has to face.
AND, you mentioned the alignment.
That is not "zero problems".
Does the automatic lock and unlock work with your hatch? Yes or no?
My BASE Fit has a remote that works with the hatch, it was dealer-installed.
Does this work at all in your vehicle? If so, great. If not, how exactly do you intend to open the hatch if the key doesn't work by inserting it in the lock or by clicking the key itself?
#76
That's not true. You posted you had problems with the fog lights:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...tml#post682338
And it's obvious it's a base hatch, and your keys don't work. That IS a problem. That nobody who buys a car from a dealership has to face.
AND, you mentioned the alignment.
That is not "zero problems".
Does the automatic lock and unlock work with your hatch? Yes or no?
My BASE Fit has a remote that works with the hatch, it was dealer-installed.
Does this work at all in your vehicle? If so, great. If not, how exactly do you intend to open the hatch if the key doesn't work by inserting it in the lock or by clicking the key itself?
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...tml#post682338
And it's obvious it's a base hatch, and your keys don't work. That IS a problem. That nobody who buys a car from a dealership has to face.
AND, you mentioned the alignment.
That is not "zero problems".
Does the automatic lock and unlock work with your hatch? Yes or no?
My BASE Fit has a remote that works with the hatch, it was dealer-installed.
Does this work at all in your vehicle? If so, great. If not, how exactly do you intend to open the hatch if the key doesn't work by inserting it in the lock or by clicking the key itself?
Yes, the automaic lock and unlock does indeed worth with my hatch. i can indeed unlock the hatch via the remote. i never said i couldn't did i?
Yeah, actually all this works perfectly with my vehicle. the only problem you have specified was the keyhole which to me are three possibly four solutions.
1) leave it like it is which is basically just a random keyhole which looks hideous imo.
2) shave it. best solution out there.
3) get my key to fit in there. pointless when my remote works.
4) cam?
as i said, you have no valid point to this argument. you are under the assumption as to i am experiencing problems which i am not. problems under warranty? i'm already looking to purchasing a helms manual (i like to wait til the '10 models come out so i can get a good price on the 09 manual). i'm very much mechanically inclined as to fixing my own car.
#78
wow, bunch of questions. mhm h11 bulbs 15 dollars a piece. easy fix. alignment. again, i'm still in spec of my alignment. i never said i wasn't, i just said it wasn't alignmed to my likeing (im VERY ocd which is why i'm getting a rear camber kit). i didn't go to my tech to align it which is another problem. my tech knows i am VERY ocd about my alignments.
Yes, the automaic lock and unlock does indeed worth with my hatch. i can indeed unlock the hatch via the remote. i never said i couldn't did i?
Yeah, actually all this works perfectly with my vehicle. the only problem you have specified was the keyhole which to me are three possibly four solutions.
1) leave it like it is which is basically just a random keyhole which looks hideous imo.
2) shave it. best solution out there.
3) get my key to fit in there. pointless when my remote works.
4) cam?
as i said, you have no valid point to this argument. you are under the assumption as to i am experiencing problems which i am not. problems under warranty? i'm already looking to purchasing a helms manual (i like to wait til the '10 models come out so i can get a good price on the 09 manual). i'm very much mechanically inclined as to fixing my own car.
Yes, the automaic lock and unlock does indeed worth with my hatch. i can indeed unlock the hatch via the remote. i never said i couldn't did i?
Yeah, actually all this works perfectly with my vehicle. the only problem you have specified was the keyhole which to me are three possibly four solutions.
1) leave it like it is which is basically just a random keyhole which looks hideous imo.
2) shave it. best solution out there.
3) get my key to fit in there. pointless when my remote works.
4) cam?
as i said, you have no valid point to this argument. you are under the assumption as to i am experiencing problems which i am not. problems under warranty? i'm already looking to purchasing a helms manual (i like to wait til the '10 models come out so i can get a good price on the 09 manual). i'm very much mechanically inclined as to fixing my own car.
I do still think it's a good idea to have a salvage thread running, as general interest.
*I* am not mechanically inclined. So that were *I* to buy the vehicle, I'd be totally clueless and end up having to pay dealer labor costs for everything.
As far as what to do with the hole if you remove the lock? I suggest choice 5. Friggin' huge CZ:
eBay.com.sg: 381CT+ HUGE CZ WHITE ROUND 40.0MM#CZW-372 HIGH QUALITY (item 120379342456 end time Jun 12, 2009 19:35:14 SGT)
The bigger, the better.
#79
While back, I had suggested that this thread had reached its useful life cycle and should be allowed to die a natural death.
Now, I feel even more strongly about that, to the point that I respectfully ask the moderator to review it for the purpose of locking it. It's become mostly an exercise in defensiveness and sleight of hand on the part of the member who started the thread. For instance, the tolerance interval for toe on the rear wheels is 0.00 to +0.24 degrees. In his previous post regarding rear alignment on the salvage car, he stated:
Personally, I don't care if his car is in or out of spec, only that he is disputing his own written word to convince himself and others that the car is virtually flawless. I could further cross-examine his written posts, but what's the use. He first opened the thread for the purpose of seeking advice (I think). Since he has already purchased the car, the purpose to this thread has already been served, and any future "contributions" he may make to it would only serve an "agenda". Others may disagree and that's OK, this is only how I see it.
Now, I feel even more strongly about that, to the point that I respectfully ask the moderator to review it for the purpose of locking it. It's become mostly an exercise in defensiveness and sleight of hand on the part of the member who started the thread. For instance, the tolerance interval for toe on the rear wheels is 0.00 to +0.24 degrees. In his previous post regarding rear alignment on the salvage car, he stated:
just had it checked out today. i had my mechanic look at it and he said it looks good, but i should go check the alignment. we went to just tires and had the alignment checked out. the rear was .44 i think. the front right was aligned. the rear couldnt be aligned because it can't be adjusted.
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