High Output Alternators Accessories, 220AMP Alternator for Imports and Domestics, Fitzall-220 | PowerBastards.com

Getting ready to install a multiple amp stereo system in my fit and would like to install a high output alternator to avoid any power issues. I don't know what size I will need though. The "Fitzall" from powerbastards is advertised as a universal solution, but sounds too good to be true. Anyone have any insight on this particular alternator or know of a better solution?

 

So its a no go on an alternator upgrade? How about having it rewound, or would the ECU still keep it at the same limit regardless?

 

It is. I don't know if you went through with buying this alternator, but I made the mistake. To give them credit, they shipped it and I received it on time, however, the alternator did NOT fit my car. He sent me the single bottom mount version when my car requires two. I tried to return it, and the seller (mike) refused even though it was never installed. He even lied to me saying he installed it on a similar car and its an "easy" install, just use "spacers", never acknowledging the fact that it didn't even have the correct mounts.

Knowing that I couldn't get my money back, I used an angle grinder to modify the alternator so it would actually fit. I still couldn't get the pulley aligned with the rest of the components, but it was close enough. I started my car, it charged for a few seconds, than started making a whiny noise and burning up to the point of smoking.

All in all, I wasted $300 and had to have my old alternator rebuilt for $200.

After all the headache, I could have just as well bought a alternator custom made for me at High Output Alternator Hi Amp by HO

... Or waited a few weeks to buy a Bosch HO from jcwhitney.com

-Joe

 

Hey, no I never went through with it. Talking to some people on another forum I found out about Electronic Load Detection (ELD) with is a fuel saving tech on our Fits, it detects if there is a load on the electrical system and if there is not it shuts the alternator off. The only problem with that is it does not detect loads that are not going through the fuse panel, meaning if you have amps for a stereo or any other power draining device hooked directly up to the battery it wont see it and thus the alternator will not think it needs to run in high output mode, making an upgraded alternator pointless.

Somebody please correct me if I am wrong.....please!!! I would love to be wrong on this one

 

there is no such thing as a "fit all" application for alternators.

best way is to drop your alternator off at a shop that specializes in alternators, get it re-wired for HO.

 

This is exactly what I did. You get all the benefits from the stock alternator, with more power.

And if you go local, you know exactly the kind of people you're dealing with. Call local car audio shops - they'll be able to refer you to someone.

 

Really, so I can get more power by getting the alternator rewired? Any hard numbers here? Any problems with it cycling on and off more? I know that if I upgrade my battery for a stereo install the stock alternator would have a hard time recharging it, a modest bump in power from a re-wind would make my life a lot easier.

 

I believe the ECU just regulates how much power the alternator outputs. If the alternator can output more power, it will when the engine asks for it.

The reasons alternators fail in the first place is because the ECU tells the alternator it needs more power and since an under-powered alternator can't meet that demand, it will be always running at full power and eventually eat up.

I could be wrong, I don't claim to be an expert in this area.

 

If what you're saying is true, than I guess you would have to buy an alternator that is self exciting - which activates automatically and doesn't connect to your ECU...

However, not knowing how the ECU would behave in this situation, it is a risk- your car could turn off, your engine light would go on, void warranty, etc

 

efessel !!!

Dude......I recently purchased that 220 Fitzall...and the EXACT SAME THING happened. He included only the single foot, when i needed dual foot. They also forgot the wiring kit I ordered. Once I received everything, I asked them about the dual foot, he said I didn't need it, my mechanic said screw it and he'd modify it to work.

Once we took it all a part, it was about 2 inches too big in diameter. It simply would not fit. When I talked to Mike about it, he stated that my mechanic just not know what he's doing (He's a honda certified master tech for over 20 years) and that he's put them in my car MULTIPLE times. Mounting and pully line up is all wrong.

He FINALLY agreed to a return, however for just portion of the cost, and wouldn't refund shipping. Plus i had to pay to ship it back, PLUS had to pay mechanic some money to find out it wouldn't work.

Long story short, I haven't sent it back QUITE yet, my mechanic and I have filed complaints with the attorney general and the BBB...

I can ramble forever....but if this is normal practice for these guys it should be handled....ya know?

You should email me : kyleghanson@yahoo.com if you are curious about how the complaint is going....and maybe if we get multiple people to file these guys might have to shell out some refunds or something...either way you should get a hold of me so we can discuss a couple things...

 

So with the ECU being the established culprit, then barring an engine transplant or aftermarket ECU, will a solid aftermarket battery and capacitor do the trick for a couple amps?

 

personally, i would rather pick up a rather a stronger battery than a dinky 340 cca lawnmower battery than start changing the alternator.

 

i have a 85 chevy K20 with 2 alternators but it also rolls with a camper i had my audio guy install them and after Afghanistan the fit well need another one also they told me its no problem, i well have to get another alternator from honda and they well do the rest i showed them this thread and they dont for see any problem good luck