What did you do to your GE fit today?
With the cold air sweeping into the Mid-Atlantic States, it's time to adjusting tire pressures, so the your TPMS - Low Pressure lights don't come on. Those in Canada probably did this 2 months ago Mine were all down around 25-27 psig. Back up to ~32 psig.
Click on the link below, you will find my review after I install the Spoon Front Sway Bar
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-generation-ge8-specific-suspension-brakes-sub-forum/77705-my-jdm-disk-brake-rs-rear-axle-conversion-6.html#post1185943
and this one after I install Progress Rear Sway Bar (I did all of them in sequence, starting with Bilstein, then Spoon FSB and Progress RSB so I feel the differences with each upgrade):
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ml#post1188534
There is a few choices of front sway bar for our Honda Fit, and this thread from a member name: Zalthras, listed most of it on his thread, link below:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...r-options.html
There is one more alternative sway bar that Zalthras did not list which is the original JDM Honda Fit RS front sway bar diameter: 23mm
If you want to go aftermarket, I recommend Spoon Front Sway bar because it have the thickest sway bar diameter at 25mm vs Cusco 24mm and the Spoon Front Sway bar came with a pair of FREE End LINK (the way they are connected are different and require the link that have their end 180degree to each other), while the Cusco not only much more expensive (during the time I bought my Spoon FSB) a few years ago, the Cusco also did NOT came with a new link (you have to use your original link) and the Cusco FSB is smaller at 24mm diameter.
Here is the list from Zalthras (edited by me to add JDM Fit RS swaybar):
25mm Spoon 51300-ZF1-000 (can be use for both Honda Fit and CRZ)
24mm Cusco 386-311-A24
24mm Ultra Racing UR-AR24-397
23mm JDM Fit RS stock sway bar
22mm Cusco 386-311-A22
22mm Ultra Racing UR-AR22-312
22mm USDM Honda GE8 (2009-2011) 51300-TK6-A01
21mm USDM Honda GE8 (2012-2013) 51300-TK6-A11
18mm USDM Honda ZE2 (2010-2014) 51300-TM8-A01
And this is DIY from a member name: De36 when he install his Spoon Front Sway Bar on his thread, link below:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...-sway-bar.html
Note: I sold my original standard Front Sway Bar to a member at CRZ Forum because our stock sway bar is already larger than their stock sway bar so I recouped most of the cost of the Spoon FSB
Picture comparing Spoon vs JDM Fit GE8 RS vs. CRZ:
I bought my Spoon FSB at GoTuning, it was much cheaper when I bought them (I think it was $155 only???) but even at current price it is still cheaper than Cusco:
Go Tuning Unlimited
Here is a source if you like Cusco:
https://www.beangarage.com/cusco-fro...nda-fit-09-11/
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-generation-ge8-specific-suspension-brakes-sub-forum/77705-my-jdm-disk-brake-rs-rear-axle-conversion-6.html#post1185943
and this one after I install Progress Rear Sway Bar (I did all of them in sequence, starting with Bilstein, then Spoon FSB and Progress RSB so I feel the differences with each upgrade):
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ml#post1188534
There is a few choices of front sway bar for our Honda Fit, and this thread from a member name: Zalthras, listed most of it on his thread, link below:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...r-options.html
There is one more alternative sway bar that Zalthras did not list which is the original JDM Honda Fit RS front sway bar diameter: 23mm
If you want to go aftermarket, I recommend Spoon Front Sway bar because it have the thickest sway bar diameter at 25mm vs Cusco 24mm and the Spoon Front Sway bar came with a pair of FREE End LINK (the way they are connected are different and require the link that have their end 180degree to each other), while the Cusco not only much more expensive (during the time I bought my Spoon FSB) a few years ago, the Cusco also did NOT came with a new link (you have to use your original link) and the Cusco FSB is smaller at 24mm diameter.
Here is the list from Zalthras (edited by me to add JDM Fit RS swaybar):
25mm Spoon 51300-ZF1-000 (can be use for both Honda Fit and CRZ)
24mm Cusco 386-311-A24
24mm Ultra Racing UR-AR24-397
23mm JDM Fit RS stock sway bar
22mm Cusco 386-311-A22
22mm Ultra Racing UR-AR22-312
22mm USDM Honda GE8 (2009-2011) 51300-TK6-A01
21mm USDM Honda GE8 (2012-2013) 51300-TK6-A11
18mm USDM Honda ZE2 (2010-2014) 51300-TM8-A01
And this is DIY from a member name: De36 when he install his Spoon Front Sway Bar on his thread, link below:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...-sway-bar.html
Note: I sold my original standard Front Sway Bar to a member at CRZ Forum because our stock sway bar is already larger than their stock sway bar so I recouped most of the cost of the Spoon FSB
Picture comparing Spoon vs JDM Fit GE8 RS vs. CRZ:
I bought my Spoon FSB at GoTuning, it was much cheaper when I bought them (I think it was $155 only???) but even at current price it is still cheaper than Cusco:
Go Tuning Unlimited
Here is a source if you like Cusco:
https://www.beangarage.com/cusco-fro...nda-fit-09-11/
Last edited by BMW ALPINA; 10-21-2018 at 01:18 PM.
Oh, I also want to add that the usual logic was, a Front Sway Bar will add understeer to a car like our Honda Fit GE, but it looks like USDM Honda Fit suspension is tune toward maximum freeway comfort.
It obvious when the FSB of JDM Fit RS is 23mm, larger than USDM 21mm, so a larger FSB will improve the handling (with the right larger diameter FSB in combination with the Sport rear axle that have internal sway bar plus Progress RSB).
back in 2013, I remember that several member who tracked their car (autocross) suggested keeping the stock FSB and some even suggest disconnecting the stock FSB link.
I thought differently based on my observation while driving my car and I think a larger Spoon FSB will improve turn in and understeer. (which later I found to be correct after I install the Spoon FSB on my car).
One of the member that was opponent of larger FSB was TPCColgett but later he change his mind, here is his post about it:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-generation-ge8-specific-suspension-brakes-sub-forum/79297-redshift-koni-coilovers-review.html#post1197778
and
another post about from him about it: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ml#post1197785
Copy and paste of his posts:
One more thing, MontrealFit2012,
if you want the ultimate in nimbleness and gokart like response, you also need to get lower profile tires (that also have very good compound for grip), because stock tire or tire with tall sidewall will somehow dampened the response, and stock tire compound will have "slip" that reduce the immediateness of the response, so you won't feel the ultimate result even after you upgrade to coilover and FSB.
My latest case is the opposite of you,
My previous tire setup was 215/40/ZR18 and (with all the suspension modification I made to my car), I actually feel my car response way too quick with just very small steering input, at least to my liking for regular road use,
so I change to 225/40ZR18 (not just wider but it also mean slightly taller side wall too). After this changes to tire with slightly taller sidewall, I can feel the steering response is less quick now, which what I want for daily drive anyway.
It obvious when the FSB of JDM Fit RS is 23mm, larger than USDM 21mm, so a larger FSB will improve the handling (with the right larger diameter FSB in combination with the Sport rear axle that have internal sway bar plus Progress RSB).
back in 2013, I remember that several member who tracked their car (autocross) suggested keeping the stock FSB and some even suggest disconnecting the stock FSB link.
I thought differently based on my observation while driving my car and I think a larger Spoon FSB will improve turn in and understeer. (which later I found to be correct after I install the Spoon FSB on my car).
One of the member that was opponent of larger FSB was TPCColgett but later he change his mind, here is his post about it:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-generation-ge8-specific-suspension-brakes-sub-forum/79297-redshift-koni-coilovers-review.html#post1197778
and
another post about from him about it: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ml#post1197785
Copy and paste of his posts:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by TPColgett I actually was a massive anti Front Sway Bar person. I thought it would only add more push and as I had worked so hard to dial out the understeer I was like WTF would I want to put it back!?..... Then I drove a near stock GD with a front bar and IMMEDIATELY "got it." I now have the T1R FSB on my car and the change in both effective spring rate and the dramatically improved turn in is EPIC
One more thing, MontrealFit2012,
if you want the ultimate in nimbleness and gokart like response, you also need to get lower profile tires (that also have very good compound for grip), because stock tire or tire with tall sidewall will somehow dampened the response, and stock tire compound will have "slip" that reduce the immediateness of the response, so you won't feel the ultimate result even after you upgrade to coilover and FSB.
My latest case is the opposite of you,
My previous tire setup was 215/40/ZR18 and (with all the suspension modification I made to my car), I actually feel my car response way too quick with just very small steering input, at least to my liking for regular road use,
so I change to 225/40ZR18 (not just wider but it also mean slightly taller side wall too). After this changes to tire with slightly taller sidewall, I can feel the steering response is less quick now, which what I want for daily drive anyway.
Last edited by BMW ALPINA; 10-21-2018 at 02:49 PM.
I got her back to stock. Bolted everything up. Checked vacuum lines. Made sure the all the sensors are plugged in. Unplugged and replugged all the sensors in. And she is running bad. It runs okay in open loop when you first start it except the rpm surges to about 1800-200RPM. then it goes back to about 1200 until it hits closed loop and goes down to about 1000. It starts to sound rough like its skipping so I checked misfires. I was getting over 20 misfires in each cylinder. Once it hits closed loop the AFR sensor keeps getting leaner and leaner. If you give it some gas it kinda goes back down to less lean. I have no idea whats up. Fuel trims are stuck at 47 just like when the piggy back was on my car. Before i started uninstalling the supercharger I took out the piggyback and reverted to factory wiring to the ecu and all the sensors and AFR seemed to be fine. SO i suspected the piggyback was causing the problem...Seems like a vacuum leak but idk where from nor do I have a way to check that. To me it doesn't sound like spark plugs or injectors because of the misfires across cylinders.
I blew out the fuel line and did my best to blow of the intake manifold and plenum before reinstalling them. Anyone have any ideas? Ill attach a video of what the car sounds like after starting it up. Its already kind of warm so it doesnt stay in open loop for long in the video. You can hear the popping which i suspect is a misfire.
Video of exhaust after startup with the popping.
2nd video right after startup.
While idling in closed loop every so often the RPMs surge a little high and the fall like the car is trying to give it more fuel but then it goes lean again. I should also mention that i haven't done the idle learn or the crankshaft position sensor learn since cleaning DTCs. The car also is not throwing any codes but im not running it for every long to try to make sure nothing breaks.
I blew out the fuel line and did my best to blow of the intake manifold and plenum before reinstalling them. Anyone have any ideas? Ill attach a video of what the car sounds like after starting it up. Its already kind of warm so it doesnt stay in open loop for long in the video. You can hear the popping which i suspect is a misfire.
Video of exhaust after startup with the popping.
2nd video right after startup.
While idling in closed loop every so often the RPMs surge a little high and the fall like the car is trying to give it more fuel but then it goes lean again. I should also mention that i haven't done the idle learn or the crankshaft position sensor learn since cleaning DTCs. The car also is not throwing any codes but im not running it for every long to try to make sure nothing breaks.
Last edited by GE8girl22; 10-23-2018 at 06:27 PM.
GE8girl, I think you are on the right track with the vacuum leak. I'd probably do a smoke test to see if you spot a leak.
There are lots of possibilities, but I'm also suspect that there could be something wrong with the MAF sensor. Any chance you have access to another GE to swap sensors?
There are lots of possibilities, but I'm also suspect that there could be something wrong with the MAF sensor. Any chance you have access to another GE to swap sensors?
GE8girl, I think you are on the right track with the vacuum leak. I'd probably do a smoke test to see if you spot a leak.
There are lots of possibilities, but I'm also suspect that there could be something wrong with the MAF sensor. Any chance you have access to another GE to swap sensors?
There are lots of possibilities, but I'm also suspect that there could be something wrong with the MAF sensor. Any chance you have access to another GE to swap sensors?
Well I checked everything I could think of and I finally called one of my friends who also likes to mod cars and he came over and took a look. He listened for vacuum leaks and traced a hissing sound to the throttle body. Guess what I forgot to put back on from the supercharger intake elbow... The throttle body gasket. So there was a huge vacuum leak there. Now the car runs perfect just like how it was meant to. I feel dumb but i'm super glad we got it fixed!! Rookie mistakes
Well I checked everything I could think of and I finally called one of my friends who also likes to mod cars and he came over and took a look. He listened for vacuum leaks and traced a hissing sound to the throttle body. Guess what I forgot to put back on from the supercharger intake elbow... The throttle body gasket. So there was a huge vacuum leak there. Now the car runs perfect just like how it was meant to. I feel dumb but i'm super glad we got it fixed!! Rookie mistakes
No it wasn't the same. They were both running lean but the misfires were different. Also no the TB gasket was in place on the supercharger manifold. But it's possible the leak from the map sensor could have caused it to lean out. I'm going to get the bolt fixed and then probably go the ktuner route.
A little ghetto looking but I really don't care. I keep my wheel keys and extra lugs for the spare underneath the magic seat. Even in a bag with power towels, they keep bouncing around making sound. I just used some leftover foam from the bed project I was working on earlier. Floral foam would have worked better but I didn't have any.
A little ghetto looking but I really don't care. I keep my wheel keys and extra lugs for the spare underneath the magic seat. Even in a bag with power towels, they keep bouncing around making sound. I just used some leftover foam from the bed project I was working on earlier. Floral foam would have worked better but I didn't have any.
When I changed the stock navi on my fit, I accidentally blew a fuse and burnt my hazard button illumination. Went to the local Honda Dealer, ordered one for 270yen and picked it up the next day! Got free coffee and Halloween tissue! Might go back just for the freebies! lol
Last edited by Kitsken; 10-28-2018 at 07:13 AM. Reason: Wrong image uploaded!