What did you do to your GE fit today?
got caught up with parts I had laying around for a while. got the center armrest in and was finishing the ambient light kit.. Also swapped in a leather steering wheel and realized I lost horn functionality so I'll need to pull it back off and swap back to the original wiring, no biggie. Nice to add a few little touches to the interior.
thanks bro. ive def seen your fit on here and on IG and it has me thinkn should i go air ride before the major power upgrades i agree, the depo tails suit the car better and i'll swap back to them p soon. though i do prefer the look of 17's on the car, i prefer the ride on 16's
Back seat delete - Took 2 minutes to unbolt, 20 minutes to haul the seats back up my apartment...
Weighed the back seats and spare tire, came out to around 43Kg(~95lbs) total... It caused my rear wheel wells to lift by 8mm, and around 2mm in the front, which I adjusted back on my coilovers.
Weight breakdown:
Rear Seat Large - 17.7Kg (~39.0lbs)
Rear Seat Small - 13.5Kg (~29.8lbs)
Spare Tire - 10.5Kg (~23.1lbs)
Other bits and bolts - ~1Kg
Noise increase was less then expected, more of a minor echo effect then anything else.
Weighed the back seats and spare tire, came out to around 43Kg(~95lbs) total... It caused my rear wheel wells to lift by 8mm, and around 2mm in the front, which I adjusted back on my coilovers.
Weight breakdown:
Rear Seat Large - 17.7Kg (~39.0lbs)
Rear Seat Small - 13.5Kg (~29.8lbs)
Spare Tire - 10.5Kg (~23.1lbs)
Other bits and bolts - ~1Kg
Noise increase was less then expected, more of a minor echo effect then anything else.
Last edited by eternal_fantasy; 06-06-2015 at 03:40 AM. Reason: Added weight breakdown
Cool thanks for actually weighing those parts out. Used to have the back seats out and liked it. Put them back in at one point so I could haul people around. Not doing that anymore and have been meaning to get the seats out again. This will push me to actually do it now.
Weighed the back seats and spare tire, came out to around 43Kg(~95lbs) total... It caused my rear wheel wells to lift by 8mm, and around 2mm in the front, which I adjusted back on my coilovers.
Weight breakdown:
Rear Seat Large - 17.7Kg (~39.0lbs)
Rear Seat Small - 13.5Kg (~29.8lbs)
Spare Tire - 10.5Kg (~23.1lbs)
Other bits and bolts - ~1Kg
Noise increase was less then expected, more of a minor echo effect then anything else.[/QUOTE]
Thanks, I was wondering bout that info.
Weight breakdown:
Rear Seat Large - 17.7Kg (~39.0lbs)
Rear Seat Small - 13.5Kg (~29.8lbs)
Spare Tire - 10.5Kg (~23.1lbs)
Other bits and bolts - ~1Kg
Noise increase was less then expected, more of a minor echo effect then anything else.[/QUOTE]
Thanks, I was wondering bout that info.
Cool thanks for actually weighing those parts out. Used to have the back seats out and liked it. Put them back in at one point so I could haul people around. Not doing that anymore and have been meaning to get the seats out again. This will push me to actually do it now.
Purely subjective, The car felt more sprightly. 4% of total car weight removed causes a noticeable improvement in acceleration and breaking. The rear seems slightly looser around corners, reducing the inherent understeer. It might increase perceived rear suspension damping however, which I reduced by one click on my rear damper stiffness setting.
Or it could, of course, all be in my head...
No problem! I'm also in the position that very rarely does the back seats get used, and seems simple enough to remove.
Purely subjective, The car felt more sprightly. 4% of total car weight removed causes a noticeable improvement in acceleration and breaking. The rear seems slightly looser around corners, reducing the inherent understeer. It might increase perceived rear suspension damping however, which I reduced by one click on my rear damper stiffness setting.
Or it could, of course, all be in my head...
Purely subjective, The car felt more sprightly. 4% of total car weight removed causes a noticeable improvement in acceleration and breaking. The rear seems slightly looser around corners, reducing the inherent understeer. It might increase perceived rear suspension damping however, which I reduced by one click on my rear damper stiffness setting.
Or it could, of course, all be in my head...
Weather cleared up and I was able to get to install my Koni rears. Followed the instructions from the Honda Manual. Worst part was untorquing the bolts.
Here they are installed:
This is the cylinder that needs to be grinded off with a dremel. You can see the notch where it holds the bolt in place. Once its ground off, use a 5 mm hex to hold the screw and place and turn the cylinder with a wrench and it will screw right off.
Dumb ass me planned to use the new spacer and nut from Koni but I dropped them behind the damn panels. I'll go fish for them some other day. I don't hear them rattling anywhere.
Took a spin and the back is less bouncier than before. Hopefully my fam comes through and buys me the front Konis for my birthday!
Here they are installed:
This is the cylinder that needs to be grinded off with a dremel. You can see the notch where it holds the bolt in place. Once its ground off, use a 5 mm hex to hold the screw and place and turn the cylinder with a wrench and it will screw right off.
Dumb ass me planned to use the new spacer and nut from Koni but I dropped them behind the damn panels. I'll go fish for them some other day. I don't hear them rattling anywhere.
Took a spin and the back is less bouncier than before. Hopefully my fam comes through and buys me the front Konis for my birthday!
The rear bumper is a replica of the Mugen Fit RS bumper. Costs 1/3 of buying the actual JDM RS rear bumper and the Mugen bumper addon... which being a bumper are subject to inevitable "bumping" by the swarm of scooters lane splitting in Taipei.
Purely subjective, The car felt more sprightly. 4% of total car weight removed causes a noticeable improvement in acceleration and breaking. The rear seems slightly looser around corners, reducing the inherent understeer. It might increase perceived rear suspension damping however, which I reduced by one click on my rear damper stiffness setting.
Or it could, of course, all be in my head...
Or it could, of course, all be in my head...
(Taiwanese equivalent of eBay) As a comparison the real Mugen fog light costs over $400 USD...
I have mine wired to perform as 4th break light, and was surprisingly durable. 3 years of use and no moisture damage or dead LED.
Well 4hp is sometimes the difference between a good dyno run and a bad one... although of course any weight reduction will help.
Last edited by eternal_fantasy; 06-07-2015 at 12:57 AM.
figured i'd give my car a wash. lotsa bug splattage from my trip to Niagara Falls two weeks ago. got a small dent on my hood too and more scratches from last year. meh. my foam sprayer works now, wish it really foamed more. bug and tar got most of the bug stuff off. need to claybar one of these days. figured while i'm at it might as well wax. nice and shiny again.
The the bumper fog light came with the bumper... although I think you can find them on some auction sites for around $30 USD. ÅS¤Ñ©ç½æ-¥xÆW NO.1 ©ç½æºô¯¸
(Taiwanese equivalent of eBay) As a comparison the real Mugen fog light costs over $400 USD...
I have mine wired to perform as 4th break light, and was surprisingly durable. 3 years of use and no moisture damage or dead LED.
(Taiwanese equivalent of eBay) As a comparison the real Mugen fog light costs over $400 USD...
I have mine wired to perform as 4th break light, and was surprisingly durable. 3 years of use and no moisture damage or dead LED.
Also, does it really flash and have 43 leds? Doesnt look like 43. I wonder if the cops here would have a problem with the flash.
Last edited by connor55; 06-07-2015 at 11:02 PM.
It has 2 lighting modes. With normal wiring, it lights up to levels matching the tail light when headlights are on, and flashes(VERY Brightly) 3 times then stays very bright when you step on the brake, until the brakes are released. However I'd hate to be behind one when it contentiously flashes and blinds you.
Here is a clip showing a similar light on a Civic https://youtu.be/vVjEl8-sSZc?t=15s
I have it wired so that it only lights without flashing and at low levels when break is applied.
I've made a bump steer kit out of 7075 T6 Aluminum since there are no steering tie rod bump steer kit for the Honda Fit because of the knuckle design. There is noticeable bump steer after installing the extended ball joint(Roll Center Adjuster). It is essentially power steering rack shims that raises the entire rack by 8mm.
It awaits sand blasting and hard coat anodizing. Hopefully there is enough room above the steering rack...
Last edited by eternal_fantasy; 06-08-2015 at 12:40 AM.