What did you do to your GE fit today?
Redshift Koni/GC coilovers 350# front/400# rear
Spoon front sway bar
progress rear sway bar
cusco front strut bar
cusco lower braces
Spoon front sway bar
progress rear sway bar
cusco front strut bar
cusco lower braces
Tried to fade them last night with the new fluid, I could not. The pedal didn't get spongy this time either. I think my problem was a combination of pads that were not fully bedded + old fluid + hot night. Everything works fine now.
So I am just minutes away from installing a new decal for my gas cap from TFB Designs. Turned out fantastic! I am just wondering if the "rising sun" decal is too offensive? Some compare it to the Confederate flag...eeeks! I just like the design. Am I crazy? The red and white will look great against the VBP body color. Am I going to get obscene gestures?
So I am just minutes away from installing a new decal for my gas cap from TFB Designs. Turned out fantastic! I am just wondering if the "rising sun" decal is too offensive? Some compare it to the Confederate flag...eeeks! I just like the design. Am I crazy? The red and white will look great against the VBP body color. Am I going to get obscene gestures?
edit:... went for a test drive with the current aftermarket pump, the DW65c and managed to trip limp mode... this would be the first time I tripped it since initially installing it in early June. Don't know if it was somehow affected by my swapping back and forth, along with low fuel conditions (gauge is close to E). Guess I'll have to see later.
The following is my original message, some of which no longer holds true.
The following is my original message, some of which no longer holds true.
Swapped the fuel pump back to stock to test a thought of mine, got it confirmed and then went to Advanced Auto Parts nearby to buy an assortment of o-rings.
Found only one (out of 18) that fit, added it to the original plus the two that came with the DW65c fuel pump for a total of FOUR o-rings on the pump. Swapped it in (again) and now hoping that it no longer drains the fuel line when sitting too long. Having annoyingly long crank times was the only thing that bugged my about the new fuel pump.
I wouldn't need that many if the nozzle were smooth. Then I would be able to re-use the spacer from the stock pump. The end of the spacer can't get over the barbs. So, now I'm using a bunch of o-rings in place of the spacer.
PS. I wanted to check whether the new fuel pump, the piggyback removal or a combination of both eliminated my "hold@high RPM limp" issue. Swapping back to stock and leaving the piggyback unplugged at least clarified that it wasn't the piggyback removal alone since it limped with that setup. Eventually I might test to see of it was the fuel pump alone (by reattaching the piggyback but keeping the new pump installed).
Found only one (out of 18) that fit, added it to the original plus the two that came with the DW65c fuel pump for a total of FOUR o-rings on the pump. Swapped it in (again) and now hoping that it no longer drains the fuel line when sitting too long. Having annoyingly long crank times was the only thing that bugged my about the new fuel pump.
I wouldn't need that many if the nozzle were smooth. Then I would be able to re-use the spacer from the stock pump. The end of the spacer can't get over the barbs. So, now I'm using a bunch of o-rings in place of the spacer.
PS. I wanted to check whether the new fuel pump, the piggyback removal or a combination of both eliminated my "hold@high RPM limp" issue. Swapping back to stock and leaving the piggyback unplugged at least clarified that it wasn't the piggyback removal alone since it limped with that setup. Eventually I might test to see of it was the fuel pump alone (by reattaching the piggyback but keeping the new pump installed).
Last edited by Goobers; 07-21-2014 at 10:02 PM.
Replaced manual transmission fluid on my 2012 sport. At 17,500, first change. The shifts are noticeably smoother. The fluid looked clean when it came out. Very easy to replace. Took 1.5 quarts at 9$ per quart of honda mt fluid. The drain plug washer is the same that goes around the engine drain bolt.
Next on the least, in 10 months - brake fluid change and coolant change.
Next on the least, in 10 months - brake fluid change and coolant change.
I think the smoother shifts are in your head. Manuals don't burn tranny fluid very fast at all, so 17.5k is super early to change it, regardless of what "service manuals" might say. I changed mine at a little under 100k (probably the first time it was ever changed, I'm the second owner) and truthfully didn't feel a noticeable difference. But at least you know it's fresh and filled up!
I change my tranny's fluid every 5000~8000km at least and much more often if attacking circuits. I would never even think about going 160,000km before changing the fluid. One should be changing it as often as the engine oil, if not more so in my opinion.
I also have an actual differential and not the stock open and it needs new blood to keep it fresh and not needing a rebuild as soon. I just rebuilt it after 2 years of heavy use and abuse on circuits and it probably didn't even really need it, but since the mission was being opened for a rebuild, had it done as well.
I also have an actual differential and not the stock open and it needs new blood to keep it fresh and not needing a rebuild as soon. I just rebuilt it after 2 years of heavy use and abuse on circuits and it probably didn't even really need it, but since the mission was being opened for a rebuild, had it done as well.
When I fixed my passenger side mirror, it got a crack in the housing, and I was too broke to go and get another entire mirror assembly (because Honda doesn't sell any replacement pieces to the mirror assembly). I got sick of looking at it today, so I took the couple vinyl die cut stickers I had lying around and covered the hole. Once the whole mirror is covered, I'll post a pic.
Plus, I'm a fan of asymmetrical designs.
Plus, I'm a fan of asymmetrical designs.
The transmission is not exposed to combustion waste like engine oil, therefore I don't see the point of replacing it very often. I guess if you drive hard ALL the time then that exposure to long periods of high heat can affect it, i.e. "cooking" it, which is the other factor in oil/fluid degradation. I just don't think the tranny fluid in your average daily driver Fit is going to go bad and need replaced nearly as often as engine oil. Obviously if the car is tracked often that's a different story.
Looking for always hot wire
Just bought my third fit. I want to install a GPS tracking device, but I'm not sure how to find a 12V lead that is always hot (even with key removed). I don't want to just pull hot wire, without knowing what it does, and I can't find a wiring diagram or any help online. Any suggestions?