What did you do to your GE fit today?
06-11-2014, 11:21 AM
Haven't been able to do much more but to enjoy the new suspension till I see what wheels I get one day
06-11-2014, 12:06 PM
image by heardthat66, on Flickr
Got some chrome/amber turn signal bulbs to clean up the headlight housing.
Both work and can be seen very well. Just hope they last
Springs and more are on their way, just sharing as the parts come in.
I notice that using a LED or Chrome-Amber bulbs for the front turn signals improve the look of the headlights.
Luis
more pictures... click on the link below...
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...tit-bijou.html
Last edited by luismycorreo; 06-11-2014 at 06:47 PM.
06-12-2014, 08:49 AM
thanks man ...
06-12-2014, 09:03 AM
Did you publish a list of MODs you applied to you car?
Luis
06-12-2014, 09:24 AM
06-12-2014, 09:28 AM
Luis
06-12-2014, 06:27 PM
Nice looking setup. Idle sounds calm and the revs dont sound ricey. Do you have another vid directly behind the car, from engine startup, idle and rev? I'm also looking for a mild exhaust just for a deep sporty sound that doesn't sound like a weedeater going down the road. I know it's only there for sound and appearance but I still want one. Nice work, Mrkeishii.
http://youtu.be/7Rv9O8YPTzw
06-12-2014, 06:49 PM
So i installed the accessory leather shift knob.. That thing is small!!!
I had decided to order a bunch of push pin clips to replace the missing bits and threw the knob in the order just for the heck of it (the rubber knob started feeling like it was peeling loose). Looks a little strange to me.
Did the install after pulling the DW65c pump to inspect and subsequently add an o-ring to ease my worries.
I had decided to order a bunch of push pin clips to replace the missing bits and threw the knob in the order just for the heck of it (the rubber knob started feeling like it was peeling loose). Looks a little strange to me.
Did the install after pulling the DW65c pump to inspect and subsequently add an o-ring to ease my worries.
06-14-2014, 08:45 AM
Picked it up from Seeker after having the transmission and differential completely overhauled. I'm quite happy to have great feeling shifts again. Ryo said my mission was on the cusp of blowing. That would have sucked if I was out on circuit. I knew it was getting worse and worse and after 19.5 months from when it first developed its problem at Central Circuit and several circuit days after, I think I really lucked out.
06-15-2014, 08:20 PM
Finally!!!
While I haven't actually done anything to the Fit, I've been waiting for the readiness code to set... Took a WEEK after replacing the fuel pump and doing some other rewiring for it to finally set.
I was just about to make a new thread about it too.
I was wondering if, during boost (Sprintex supercharger installed), I was somehow getting knock and if that was preventing the code from setting. This thought came about for a combination of two reasons, folks online say 14.7 AFR is too lean for boost (i have the factory ECU handling fuel trim and ignition timing). The other reason, when looking at the scan gauge, my timing reading drops to upper teens, low twenties during moderate to hard acceleration, which is where boost seems to come on. During cruise and very light acceleration, it goes up to 55 (which seems to be the max). Of course that goes hand in hand with the information that the Fit ECU pulls timing if it senses knock.
Of course, now that the code finally set... I'm not worried, but still a little curious.
While I haven't actually done anything to the Fit, I've been waiting for the readiness code to set... Took a WEEK after replacing the fuel pump and doing some other rewiring for it to finally set.
I was just about to make a new thread about it too.
I was wondering if, during boost (Sprintex supercharger installed), I was somehow getting knock and if that was preventing the code from setting. This thought came about for a combination of two reasons, folks online say 14.7 AFR is too lean for boost (i have the factory ECU handling fuel trim and ignition timing). The other reason, when looking at the scan gauge, my timing reading drops to upper teens, low twenties during moderate to hard acceleration, which is where boost seems to come on. During cruise and very light acceleration, it goes up to 55 (which seems to be the max). Of course that goes hand in hand with the information that the Fit ECU pulls timing if it senses knock.
Of course, now that the code finally set... I'm not worried, but still a little curious.
06-15-2014, 08:24 PM
Finally!!!
While I haven't actually done anything to the Fit, I've been waiting for the readiness code to set... Took a WEEK after replacing the fuel pump and doing some other rewiring for it to finally set.
I was just about to make a new thread about it too.
I was wondering if, during boost (Sprintex supercharger installed), I was somehow getting knock and if that was preventing the code from setting. This thought came about for a combination of two reasons, folks online say 14.7 AFR is too lean for boost (i have the factory ECU handling fuel trim and ignition timing). The other reason, when looking at the scan gauge, my timing reading drops to upper teens, low twenties during moderate to hard acceleration, which is where boost seems to come on. During cruise and very light acceleration, it goes up to 55 (which seems to be the max). Of course that goes hand in hand with the information that the Fit ECU pulls timing if it senses knock.
Of course, now that the code finally set... I'm not worried, but still a little curious.
While I haven't actually done anything to the Fit, I've been waiting for the readiness code to set... Took a WEEK after replacing the fuel pump and doing some other rewiring for it to finally set.
I was just about to make a new thread about it too.
I was wondering if, during boost (Sprintex supercharger installed), I was somehow getting knock and if that was preventing the code from setting. This thought came about for a combination of two reasons, folks online say 14.7 AFR is too lean for boost (i have the factory ECU handling fuel trim and ignition timing). The other reason, when looking at the scan gauge, my timing reading drops to upper teens, low twenties during moderate to hard acceleration, which is where boost seems to come on. During cruise and very light acceleration, it goes up to 55 (which seems to be the max). Of course that goes hand in hand with the information that the Fit ECU pulls timing if it senses knock.
Of course, now that the code finally set... I'm not worried, but still a little curious.
06-15-2014, 09:43 PM
At the upper rpms, definitely don't be running 14.7:1, even NA doesn't like running that lean when pressing the go pedal. If I were you, I would look to be running at the minimum about 12.5:1 under boost. Some will say that is too lean even. I've never had a boosted car and probably never will unless that new CTR does come to Japan and I allow my wallet to spit out $45k. Anyways, hope you get your tune all sorted out.
Anyways, hope you get your tune all sorted out.
06-15-2014, 10:14 PM
factory setup wont run at 14.7 AFR, Honda has it running richer than that.
I think someone on this forum stated it shoots closer to 11:1 under anything other then a steady cruise. Cruising steady speed, it probably will be leaner then 14.7 AFR
I think someone on this forum stated it shoots closer to 11:1 under anything other then a steady cruise. Cruising steady speed, it probably will be leaner then 14.7 AFR
06-16-2014, 12:01 AM
For the last few days, I've been trying to figure out how to get an AFR reading out of either the AEM f/ic 6 or the Ultragauge... but no dice.
The AEM unit only gives voltage readings, which isn't useful since the primary O2 is a current based wide band O2 sensor.
And until just now, I thought the UG gave O2 sensor 1 readings, but finally understood, it's sensor 2. What threw me off for the longest time was the fact that it's a narrowband sensor, but gauge goes beyond 0-1v range, tops out at 1.250v on the UG. I started thinking it might be lambda... but that got dashed when I realized the gauge name "O2 2" and reading the repair manual, telling me that secondary O2, when operating normally, has a voltage range of 0.05-1.27v (which matches the gauge).
The odd thing is... it doesn't mesh up with the AEM unit's O2 secondary reading. In pretty much all my logs from the AEM unit, the secondary O2 voltage never varies much more than the 0.4-0.5v range. But then again, the AEM unit says it's Bank 2, as opposed to the UG calling it Bank 1 sensor 2. Hum... strange.
Anyway, I decided to order the new version of the Ultragauge, the "EM Plus" version. I ordered it last night because it has a few new "experimental" features... namely, checking readiness and "additional oxygen sensor readouts." But of course, now my Fit set the readiness code, it isn't immediately necessary. In the UG gauge availability estimator, it says only the EM Plus would have "Bank 1 Wide Oxygen Sensor 1 lambda Current" reading for the 2010 Fit, even though a different page claims the classic UG had "Bank 1 Wide Oxygen Sensor 1 Lambda" (I'll tell you this much, I can't find it).
Hopefully, the new UG will give me something to work with.
The AEM unit only gives voltage readings, which isn't useful since the primary O2 is a current based wide band O2 sensor.
And until just now, I thought the UG gave O2 sensor 1 readings, but finally understood, it's sensor 2. What threw me off for the longest time was the fact that it's a narrowband sensor, but gauge goes beyond 0-1v range, tops out at 1.250v on the UG. I started thinking it might be lambda... but that got dashed when I realized the gauge name "O2 2" and reading the repair manual, telling me that secondary O2, when operating normally, has a voltage range of 0.05-1.27v (which matches the gauge).
The odd thing is... it doesn't mesh up with the AEM unit's O2 secondary reading. In pretty much all my logs from the AEM unit, the secondary O2 voltage never varies much more than the 0.4-0.5v range. But then again, the AEM unit says it's Bank 2, as opposed to the UG calling it Bank 1 sensor 2. Hum... strange.
Anyway, I decided to order the new version of the Ultragauge, the "EM Plus" version. I ordered it last night because it has a few new "experimental" features... namely, checking readiness and "additional oxygen sensor readouts." But of course, now my Fit set the readiness code, it isn't immediately necessary. In the UG gauge availability estimator, it says only the EM Plus would have "Bank 1 Wide Oxygen Sensor 1 lambda Current" reading for the 2010 Fit, even though a different page claims the classic UG had "Bank 1 Wide Oxygen Sensor 1 Lambda" (I'll tell you this much, I can't find it).
Hopefully, the new UG will give me something to work with.
06-16-2014, 01:00 PM
Takeda CAI
I swapped out the factory air box on my 2011 Fit Sport M/T with a Takeda TA-1003P cold air intake. I couldn't say whether it helps performance, but it's way more fun to drive.
Last edited by JonStewartMill; 06-17-2014 at 11:14 AM. Reason: obsolete slang removed
06-16-2014, 08:22 PM
My A/C button broke on me...
Moved my vent controls so air would come out the dash vents... pressed the A/C button.
Decided it wasn't strong enough and I would flip it back to the way it was before... vents to windshield and button OFF (even though A/C would still be ON).
As soon as I pressed it to toggle the A/C OFF, I felt something snap... and now the button is stuck pushed in.
Onto related "issues." I'm not sure if they're actual issues or just my impatience at the time. Fan speeds 1-3, while still working enough that you can feel each is different, they seem kinda weak. Back in 2011, I had that resistor blow out and lost speeds 1-3 altogether.
And the other is, the "cold air" from the A/C isn't particularly cold... might need a recharge or something (I've never done it before on any car, at least not personally).
Moved my vent controls so air would come out the dash vents... pressed the A/C button.
Decided it wasn't strong enough and I would flip it back to the way it was before... vents to windshield and button OFF (even though A/C would still be ON).
As soon as I pressed it to toggle the A/C OFF, I felt something snap... and now the button is stuck pushed in.
Onto related "issues." I'm not sure if they're actual issues or just my impatience at the time. Fan speeds 1-3, while still working enough that you can feel each is different, they seem kinda weak. Back in 2011, I had that resistor blow out and lost speeds 1-3 altogether.
And the other is, the "cold air" from the A/C isn't particularly cold... might need a recharge or something (I've never done it before on any car, at least not personally).
06-18-2014, 02:47 PM
