What did you do to your GE fit today?
05-30-2014, 02:39 PM
Nice @ the gold emblems...
in case any one needs/wants here's the Honda Access (JDM) part # 08F20-TF0-001
and the install instructions --> https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ml#post1188625
in case any one needs/wants here's the Honda Access (JDM) part # 08F20-TF0-001
and the install instructions --> https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ml#post1188625
05-30-2014, 03:24 PM
Hopefully, I can finally unplug my laptop from my Fit soon.
05-30-2014, 09:53 PM
For the last 2 months maybe 3, I've had an intermittent VSA light and an almost constant CEL light on a '11 Sport. For free, the local auto store noted that it was a misfire in #2 and #3 cyl but offered no fix, which was fine.
Eventually I went to the dealer and for $63 they said it was a misfire only in #2 cyl and that I needed a coil pack at $165 but didn't have one. I came back and they installed it for another $57. I asked for the original and it was in a bag when I left and I threw in on the back floor to look at later. The CEL & VSA were off when I left but two days later they were both back on.
The local auto parts store said it was a misfire in #2 cyl, but that was the one with the new coil pack. ???????? The dealer wanted the car back and run through diagnostics again for $63. I was done with that route and pull out the old coil pack to look at. It smelled like gasoline and was covered in soot.
So why would something on the outside of the engine smell like the inside of the engine? I took the coil pack off of #1 cyl and it looked new and no smell. The spark plug was tight. #2 and #3 were both sooty with gasoline smell and wet condensate on them. Both spark plugs were loose. I spun both out by hand without needing a wrench to start the process. #4 cyl was clean and the plug was tight.
I tightened everything and installed the original coil pack at its "failed" position, #2 cyl, and started it up. Sounded great and no VSA light. Within 2 miles the CEL went out and over the miles, the MPG has increased and seems to be averaging 2-3 MPG better than before.
If you are getting warning these lights, check your spark plugs. I bought the car new and and took it to the dealer for the first oil change but not back until this problem (40,000 miles). Wonder why #2 & #3 would be loose after all these years / miles?
Eventually I went to the dealer and for $63 they said it was a misfire only in #2 cyl and that I needed a coil pack at $165 but didn't have one. I came back and they installed it for another $57. I asked for the original and it was in a bag when I left and I threw in on the back floor to look at later. The CEL & VSA were off when I left but two days later they were both back on.
The local auto parts store said it was a misfire in #2 cyl, but that was the one with the new coil pack. ???????? The dealer wanted the car back and run through diagnostics again for $63. I was done with that route and pull out the old coil pack to look at. It smelled like gasoline and was covered in soot.
So why would something on the outside of the engine smell like the inside of the engine? I took the coil pack off of #1 cyl and it looked new and no smell. The spark plug was tight. #2 and #3 were both sooty with gasoline smell and wet condensate on them. Both spark plugs were loose. I spun both out by hand without needing a wrench to start the process. #4 cyl was clean and the plug was tight.
I tightened everything and installed the original coil pack at its "failed" position, #2 cyl, and started it up. Sounded great and no VSA light. Within 2 miles the CEL went out and over the miles, the MPG has increased and seems to be averaging 2-3 MPG better than before.
If you are getting warning these lights, check your spark plugs. I bought the car new and and took it to the dealer for the first oil change but not back until this problem (40,000 miles). Wonder why #2 & #3 would be loose after all these years / miles?
Last edited by spike55_bmw; 05-30-2014 at 09:57 PM.
05-30-2014, 09:58 PM
You should be going back to the dealer and asking for your money back, that is quite the piss poor service department they have. How they didn't even bother to check that is pathetic and those that call themselves techs should be ashamed.
05-31-2014, 02:24 AM
Whoa.... I got the boomslang harness... Now, i have no idea what to do with it.
I was thinking of just mounting the AEM f/ic next to the ecu in the engine bay, but the cable is FIVE FEET LONG!
Looks like it was setup to be installed inside the cabin (behind glove compartment?).
So now, i have to figure out how the get the cable to pass into the cabin.
Drill a hole and stuff a grommet?
I was thinking of just mounting the AEM f/ic next to the ecu in the engine bay, but the cable is FIVE FEET LONG!
Looks like it was setup to be installed inside the cabin (behind glove compartment?).
So now, i have to figure out how the get the cable to pass into the cabin.
Drill a hole and stuff a grommet?
05-31-2014, 02:33 AM
For the last 2 months maybe 3, I've had an intermittent VSA light and an almost constant CEL light on a '11 Sport. For free, the local auto store noted that it was a misfire in #2 and #3 cyl but offered no fix, which was fine.
Eventually I went to the dealer and for $63 they said it was a misfire only in #2 cyl and that I needed a coil pack at $165 but didn't have one. I came back and they installed it for another $57. I asked for the original and it was in a bag when I left and I threw in on the back floor to look at later. The CEL & VSA were off when I left but two days later they were both back on.
The local auto parts store said it was a misfire in #2 cyl, but that was the one with the new coil pack. ???????? The dealer wanted the car back and run through diagnostics again for $63. I was done with that route and pull out the old coil pack to look at. It smelled like gasoline and was covered in soot.
So why would something on the outside of the engine smell like the inside of the engine? I took the coil pack off of #1 cyl and it looked new and no smell. The spark plug was tight. #2 and #3 were both sooty with gasoline smell and wet condensate on them. Both spark plugs were loose. I spun both out by hand without needing a wrench to start the process. #4 cyl was clean and the plug was tight.
I tightened everything and installed the original coil pack at its "failed" position, #2 cyl, and started it up. Sounded great and no VSA light. Within 2 miles the CEL went out and over the miles, the MPG has increased and seems to be averaging 2-3 MPG better than before.
If you are getting warning these lights, check your spark plugs. I bought the car new and and took it to the dealer for the first oil change but not back until this problem (40,000 miles). Wonder why #2 & #3 would be loose after all these years / miles?
Eventually I went to the dealer and for $63 they said it was a misfire only in #2 cyl and that I needed a coil pack at $165 but didn't have one. I came back and they installed it for another $57. I asked for the original and it was in a bag when I left and I threw in on the back floor to look at later. The CEL & VSA were off when I left but two days later they were both back on.
The local auto parts store said it was a misfire in #2 cyl, but that was the one with the new coil pack. ???????? The dealer wanted the car back and run through diagnostics again for $63. I was done with that route and pull out the old coil pack to look at. It smelled like gasoline and was covered in soot.
So why would something on the outside of the engine smell like the inside of the engine? I took the coil pack off of #1 cyl and it looked new and no smell. The spark plug was tight. #2 and #3 were both sooty with gasoline smell and wet condensate on them. Both spark plugs were loose. I spun both out by hand without needing a wrench to start the process. #4 cyl was clean and the plug was tight.
I tightened everything and installed the original coil pack at its "failed" position, #2 cyl, and started it up. Sounded great and no VSA light. Within 2 miles the CEL went out and over the miles, the MPG has increased and seems to be averaging 2-3 MPG better than before.
If you are getting warning these lights, check your spark plugs. I bought the car new and and took it to the dealer for the first oil change but not back until this problem (40,000 miles). Wonder why #2 & #3 would be loose after all these years / miles?
>>> Agree. They should at least refund a portion of the fees. Nice job on self diagnoses and repair. I am going to have my cowl off for something else so may check mine for loose plugs even though it is running fine
05-31-2014, 04:00 AM
So my TMWorks semi coil packs arrived this morning. Installed them and wouldn't you know it, 3 of my 4 plugs were loose, was able to finger thread them out. Right now I'm purging air from the coolant system.
Anyways, might be a good idea for others that don't mind a little hands-on work to check your plugs. 1,3 and 4 were loose on mine. Guess I'll be checking this every few months. Side note my Denso Iridium Racing IK-24 plugs looked great. These are 2 steps colder than factory, J's recommended at least 1 step colder with the reflash, but I wanted another step colder. Even running through 2 winters already on them I've had no engine hiccups.
Actually hoping I may see a tiny FE improvement with all the plugs secured properly. CHECK YOUR PLUGS!!!
Anyways, might be a good idea for others that don't mind a little hands-on work to check your plugs. 1,3 and 4 were loose on mine. Guess I'll be checking this every few months. Side note my Denso Iridium Racing IK-24 plugs looked great. These are 2 steps colder than factory, J's recommended at least 1 step colder with the reflash, but I wanted another step colder. Even running through 2 winters already on them I've had no engine hiccups.
Actually hoping I may see a tiny FE improvement with all the plugs secured properly. CHECK YOUR PLUGS!!!
05-31-2014, 06:57 AM
Well... in the middle of the night, I went out to putz with the AEM f/ic harness.
Found the factory grommet where the "right engine" harness enters the cabin. Partially popped it out and shoved the end of the harness in.
Man, there isn't a lot of room to attach the boomslang harness to the ECU. It's both too long and too short. It's too long in that all those wires take up a LOT of room and there isn't much room when you still have the stock airbox. It's too short in that, you can't plug in the OE harness facing one direction, have the harness do a 180 back to the ECU.
So yeah... having BOTH AEM and PerfectPower piggybacks in at the same time isn't a good idea. The Fit went bonkers (P0102, P0107 and the P0335). I was hoping the default map in the AEM was a "zero" map (as in, doesn't do anything)... but I guess not. Suffice it to say, plugging in the AEM bypass let my car run (albeit, still needing my laptop). Without undoing the first harness, I can't run only AEM because I don't have a bypass plug for the other unit.
I don't want to take out the older piggyback harness yet because I still need to figure out what to do with all the stuff the AEM isn't connecting to (5th injector, 1 bar MAP, 3 bar MAP and IAT sensor on the Sprintex manifold).
Sure, the f/ic has a built-in MAP sensor that could replace the 3 bar MAP... but I don't have a long enough tube to run from the front of the engine all the way into my glove box (where the AEM will be sitting).
The harness from BoomSlang has only one leftover wire for a 0-5v input (which most people use for a wideband O2 sensor). Everything else was taken out... wires for the 5th and 6th injectors, GONE! Who knows what else, besides the "MAG vs HALL" sensor wires, are gone also. For the MAG vs HALL sensor wires, while I don't know which the Fit uses, I understand only one set can be used and the other set can't at all. So for that, I don't mind taking out.
I suppose I could wire up the IAT to the leftover wire and go buy a ridiculously long tube for the boost pressure... Either that, or pull the harness out and then add the missing wires back into the 5' long bundle (not something I want to do).
In the end, this harness is a bit goofy. They wired ALL the pin in the three ECU connector patch (147 wires), even though some 46 are not used at all (101 wires cover both MT and AT Fits). Then they turn around and REMOVE wires from the AEM harness that could've been used (leave the wires and just tape it off). Considering the price of the harness, that's just not cool.
Found the factory grommet where the "right engine" harness enters the cabin. Partially popped it out and shoved the end of the harness in.
Man, there isn't a lot of room to attach the boomslang harness to the ECU. It's both too long and too short. It's too long in that all those wires take up a LOT of room and there isn't much room when you still have the stock airbox. It's too short in that, you can't plug in the OE harness facing one direction, have the harness do a 180 back to the ECU.
So yeah... having BOTH AEM and PerfectPower piggybacks in at the same time isn't a good idea. The Fit went bonkers (P0102, P0107 and the P0335). I was hoping the default map in the AEM was a "zero" map (as in, doesn't do anything)... but I guess not. Suffice it to say, plugging in the AEM bypass let my car run (albeit, still needing my laptop). Without undoing the first harness, I can't run only AEM because I don't have a bypass plug for the other unit.
I don't want to take out the older piggyback harness yet because I still need to figure out what to do with all the stuff the AEM isn't connecting to (5th injector, 1 bar MAP, 3 bar MAP and IAT sensor on the Sprintex manifold).
Sure, the f/ic has a built-in MAP sensor that could replace the 3 bar MAP... but I don't have a long enough tube to run from the front of the engine all the way into my glove box (where the AEM will be sitting).
The harness from BoomSlang has only one leftover wire for a 0-5v input (which most people use for a wideband O2 sensor). Everything else was taken out... wires for the 5th and 6th injectors, GONE! Who knows what else, besides the "MAG vs HALL" sensor wires, are gone also. For the MAG vs HALL sensor wires, while I don't know which the Fit uses, I understand only one set can be used and the other set can't at all. So for that, I don't mind taking out.
I suppose I could wire up the IAT to the leftover wire and go buy a ridiculously long tube for the boost pressure... Either that, or pull the harness out and then add the missing wires back into the 5' long bundle (not something I want to do).
In the end, this harness is a bit goofy. They wired ALL the pin in the three ECU connector patch (147 wires), even though some 46 are not used at all (101 wires cover both MT and AT Fits). Then they turn around and REMOVE wires from the AEM harness that could've been used (leave the wires and just tape it off). Considering the price of the harness, that's just not cool.
05-31-2014, 01:20 PM
Had a short drive this morning and found my ipod keeps disconnecting, I have a feeling I have a bad cable but I reset the Ipod anyway. Will be buying a new cable today and hopefully that fixes it.
I also got all of my parts installed on Wednesday but need to wash the car today and snap some pics to show
I also got all of my parts installed on Wednesday but need to wash the car today and snap some pics to show
05-31-2014, 04:03 PM
AHHHHH.... fixed my "SMT8-L and f/ic6 not happy together" issue.
Turns out, the settings I changed in "system" were the problem. I would've thought leaving the various signals (MAF, ignition, analog A/B) to their matching types (again, MAF, ig, A/B) would directly pass the signals through. But clearly, I was wrong. MAF is dependent on MAP as input and THEN outputs MAP as Analog A!
So, once I changed that back... no more limp/engine codes.
Talk about diving in head first!
Now, to figure out how to convert the datalog into a graph.
Turns out, the settings I changed in "system" were the problem. I would've thought leaving the various signals (MAF, ignition, analog A/B) to their matching types (again, MAF, ig, A/B) would directly pass the signals through. But clearly, I was wrong. MAF is dependent on MAP as input and THEN outputs MAP as Analog A!
So, once I changed that back... no more limp/engine codes.
Talk about diving in head first!
Now, to figure out how to convert the datalog into a graph.
Last edited by Goobers; 05-31-2014 at 04:07 PM.
05-31-2014, 04:58 PM
received my TYC headlights today. goddamn it was a big box from rockauto. retrofit kit coming in on Monday. went out today to accumulate some more stuff for the retro. bought a power supply from bestbuy. bought a heat gun from lowes. i test fit a headlight into my oven and it fits however the headlight ends up touching the walls. so i don't want to risk melting it. so heat gun it is.
05-31-2014, 09:49 PM
05-31-2014, 11:30 PM
i have no idea. i'm hoping that the cable is just loose or something. ill check it out tomorrow. maybe time to get change lights and get the World One Light bars.
06-01-2014, 01:18 AM
Installed my FormFit hood deflector and headlight armor fog protectors.
Also found a good spot to mount my Sirius radio >>>
Couple strips of velcro on the back side of the unit and it fits next to the power outlet perfectly. Still have access to the cubby as well. Just need to tuck the wires away now. Sorry for the blurry pics.
Also found a good spot to mount my Sirius radio >>>
Couple strips of velcro on the back side of the unit and it fits next to the power outlet perfectly. Still have access to the cubby as well. Just need to tuck the wires away now. Sorry for the blurry pics.
06-01-2014, 02:14 PM
3 horns
Installed the OEM horn back to its original location and relocated my Piaa Sport Horns on the top of the vertical AC condenser mounding bar. With 3 horns, it is much louder with a higher pitch.
06-01-2014, 11:01 PM
06-01-2014, 11:04 PM
Washed/waxed the 2012 today. Looks incredible.
20140601_140630 by gbaby2089, on Flickr
20140601_140653 by gbaby2089, on Flickr
20140601_140630 by gbaby2089, on Flickr20140601_140653 by gbaby2089, on Flickr