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What did you do to your GE fit today?

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  #8501  
Old 06-12-2013, 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by BMW ALPINA
May I know what brand of Stainless Steel Brake Lines,
The price and Where you bought it ?

Plus, do you feel the brake pedal much firmer or only a bit firmer after SS brake lines installed ?
and how about the pedal travel, is it shorter or still the same?

Thanks
Goodridge part #20114, bought via Ebay seller "streetrays". amazon has it listed for same price if you are concerned purchasing via ebay although it is listed only good for 09-11 though when my box came it said 2009-2010 model. regardless of the year printed it fit's mine perfectly.

i still feel an initial couple mm travel but much more firmer than stock rubber hoses. according to the reviews and research i did before purchasing, a lot of the users also switched to better brake fluid when they did the swap so that should be taken into account of when you make your decision. i'll most likely also change out to better fluids once I research up on if fluid mixes/blends make any difference other than boiling temp.

on another note, my gf who "borrows" my car when im working says it feels weird and needs to get used to.
 
  #8502  
Old 06-12-2013, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by SieGunso
Goodridge part #20114, bought via Ebay seller "streetrays". amazon has it listed for same price if you are concerned purchasing via ebay although it is listed only good for 09-11 though when my box came it said 2009-2010 model. regardless of the year printed it fit's mine perfectly.

i still feel an initial couple mm travel but much more firmer than stock rubber hoses. according to the reviews and research i did before purchasing, a lot of the users also switched to better brake fluid when they did the swap so that should be taken into account of when you make your decision. i'll most likely also change out to better fluids once I research up on if fluid mixes/blends make any difference other than boiling temp.

on another note, my gf who "borrows" my car when im working says it feels weird and needs to get used to.
Thanks for your complete information,
I do forget to ask you one more question,
Did the Goodridge kit have the same exact mounting style as the original rubber brake line?
meaning it is the same type of bracket that bolted to the front strut,
and
the same mounting style (using clip) at the point were it connect to the solid brake pipe at the rear axle?
Thanks again
 
  #8503  
Old 06-12-2013, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by krunk13
plastidipped oe emblems
doesnt look bad but i already bought these...

 
  #8504  
Old 06-12-2013, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by BMW ALPINA
Thanks for your complete information,
I do forget to ask you one more question,
Did the Goodridge kit have the same exact mounting style as the original rubber brake line?
meaning it is the same type of bracket that bolted to the front strut,
and
the same mounting style (using clip) at the point were it connect to the solid brake pipe at the rear axle?
Thanks again
everything in the box was used, i sat through the whole process as the tech did each and every one and it seemed he did not need anything outside of what was provided. i only took a glance at what was included but from what i remember was 2 new brackets for the front, 2 clips i believed was for the rear, and a couple new bolts. i forgot to take pictures of it when i got it in the mail mainly because pretty excited to finally put something on my car that'll help it's function

imo stopping distance improved drastically compared to the original lines, though that could be due to the fact i also upgraded rims and tires 2 weeks ago.

i might've misread but everything swapped looked the same and bolted back into the same oem positions except shinier and more race car than oem
 

Last edited by SieGunso; 06-12-2013 at 12:55 AM.
  #8505  
Old 06-12-2013, 01:05 AM
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Originally Posted by SieGunso
everything in the box was used, i sat through the whole process as the tech did each and every one and it seemed he did not need anything outside of what was provided. i only took a glance at what was included but from what i remember was 2 new brackets for the front, 2 clips i believed was for the rear, and a couple new bolts. i forgot to take pictures of it when i got it in the mail mainly because pretty excited to finally put something on my car that'll help it's function

imo stopping distance improved drastically compared to the original lines, though that could be due to the fact i also upgraded rims and tires 2 weeks ago.
Well, I think your stopping distance improve because now the maximum power that the brake pads clamp the rotor reached faster (and more direct) because now it is not wasted with the expansion of the rubber line,
so that is why this new brake line help your braking distance...
cause the response time is also important in lowering the braking distance (the response time here mean from the time you press that brake pedal till the brake pad fully clamp the brake rotor with full power).
so the Goodridge did help your braking distance, (that and of course your rims and tires upgrade too )

By the way, I just check the ebay seller you inform above,
and that ebay seller price is one of the best there,...
I also had checked the amazon seller, and similar price too.
so great info from you

I think I would buy the Goodridge brake line instead of the Mugen,
because the Mugen (with 4 lines) is twice the price of this Goodridge.
and since you had experience first hand that all the fitting from this Goodridge kit is going to fit almost the same as the OEM one,
there is not much point in buying the Mugen one for me,...
and the Mugen with 6 lines,... well they will not fit my custom larger rear brake...

beside, I will still need to build 2 extra custom longer brake line for my rear disk brake conversion, and I will prefer to use the Goodridge custom line for that, so might as well go with Goodridge all the way then Part Mugen and Part Goodridge

again Thanks so much for your information, you help me save cost
 
  #8506  
Old 06-12-2013, 01:10 AM
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np! btw regarding the rear lines as i saw the tech put them in, you might have some trouble replacing the 1 of the passenger side without a lift as it is tucked away behind the torsion beam.
 
  #8507  
Old 06-12-2013, 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by SieGunso
np! btw regarding the rear lines as i saw the tech put them in, you might have some trouble replacing the 1 of the passenger side without a lift as it is tucked away behind the torsion beam.
Thanks for the warning,

but hopefully it won't give me problem cause I am going to replace my torsion beam anyway,
here is my thread about it:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...onversion.html

but it is far from finished though...
 
  #8508  
Old 06-12-2013, 02:09 AM
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Originally Posted by SieGunso
i still feel an initial couple mm travel but much more firmer than stock rubber hoses.

Have you looked into "firewall flex" as the cause of that initial travel? It was a big problem on the GDs.

Have someone sit in the car and press hard on the brake pedal and you watch the master cylinder maybe with a ruler set beside it. On the GDs you could see the end of the master cylinder move out toward the enginebay just with your eye it moved so much. turns out that the firewall was moving just from foot pressure on the pedal causing some movement that wasn't going into the master cylinder.

Making a "stop" pressing against the master cylinder "pre-loading" it so it can't move forward cured the problem and gave the pedal a much firmer feel.
 
  #8509  
Old 06-12-2013, 02:31 AM
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Got retrofits HID night visions fogs and headlights installed yesterday, got DRL dashboard indicator today and check engine from it...?
 
  #8510  
Old 06-12-2013, 03:28 AM
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i just touch up my front end, got a big chip
 
  #8511  
Old 06-12-2013, 09:26 AM
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Just drove from Denver, CO to Omaha, NE. First longer trip for my Fit. Took 8 hours to get here.

I was going 80mph the whole time with an avg of 35.1 mpg in the end.
DOPEE
 
  #8512  
Old 06-12-2013, 09:38 AM
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At the tint shop gettn the roof matte blacked out at the moment. Will post pics of the finished product.

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still have to install the carbon duck bill spoiler later today and pick up my carbon hood next week in nashville. not looking too bad for only being 3 months old and 1800 miles on her.
 

Last edited by kudakev615; 06-12-2013 at 11:47 AM.
  #8513  
Old 06-12-2013, 01:40 PM
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Ignoring it :/
Weather finally got nice in texas so ive been riding my zx6r a lot. I need to get my jdp duckbill put on asap though and remake my front lip. My poor fit needs some love!
 
  #8514  
Old 06-13-2013, 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Clownfyre
Got retrofits HID night visions fogs and headlights installed yesterday, got DRL dashboard indicator today and check engine from it...?
Pics my hometown brother
 
  #8515  
Old 06-13-2013, 12:35 AM
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^Not sure if this is the reason, but did you pull the fuse out? (#15)
 
  #8516  
Old 06-13-2013, 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by connor55
^Not sure if this is the reason, but did you pull the fuse out? (#15)
Yeah I did later that day and it went away along with the check engine light. Then today I plugged the fuse back in, the DRL came back but the check engine light is gone.
 
  #8517  
Old 06-13-2013, 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Clownfyre
Yeah I did later that day and it went away along with the check engine light. Then today I plugged the fuse back in, the DRL came back but the check engine light is gone.
You should leave that fuse out if you have any hid setup (even bi-xenon). The lower voltage from the DRL will eventually mess up your ballasts.

I have no idea why your check engine light came on however..
 
  #8518  
Old 06-13-2013, 12:59 AM
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Desoldering the FIC harness

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Tidy enough

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

FIC is now up for sale.

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/sale...-f-ic-6-a.html
 
  #8519  
Old 06-13-2013, 01:01 AM
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Originally Posted by j1nNju1c3
Pics my hometown brother
Here's a few pics. Think you guys can meet up tomorrow night? Hang out? PM #'s.
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  #8520  
Old 06-13-2013, 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by connor55
You should leave that fuse out if you have any hid setup (even bi-xenon). The lower voltage from the DRL will eventually mess up your ballasts.

I have no idea why your check engine light came on however..
I'll take the fuse out again before I head out for work again.
 


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