Sound Deadening Step #1
#1
Sound Deadening Step #1
I spent the whole day laying Dynamat on the trunk area. It took 5 sheets and I have some bruised knuckle and cut fingers. I only drove locally so far and I cannot really tell the difference. I will take it on the freeway tomorrow and try it out.
Step #2 will be doing the doors. Hopefully with 4 sheets left, I will have enough. I am planning to change the speakers at the same time.
Here are some pics:
Step #2 will be doing the doors. Hopefully with 4 sheets left, I will have enough. I am planning to change the speakers at the same time.
Here are some pics:
Last edited by vwli; 03-15-2009 at 01:39 AM.
#3
Each to their own. If you want your Fit to be as quiet as a Lexus I guess that stuff will do the trick, but the car is plenty quiet for me. I actually expected it to be noiser on the freeway so I've been pleasantly surprised.
#4
For some reason I found the Fit noisy. May be I got the manual sports. Especially on freeway. Depending on the road surface, it makes a lot of road noise (the low profile tires on Sports?). Also the engine rev a little higher on 5th than the automatic and it makes more noise.
Last edited by vwli; 03-15-2009 at 10:52 AM.
#6
Thanks for sharing the pictures. Can't wait to hear what you think of the results. I find the Sport M/T a little noisy on the highway, too. It's a lot quieter than our '90 Miata, though, and the engine turns the same RPM at highway speed.
Cheers.
Cheers.
#7
Just took my Fit on the freeway for a spin. A lot more quiet than before. I used to set the volume to 6 on the radio, now I can listen at 4. I am very satisfy with the result. I think I am going to order the speakers and work on the doors soon.
Quiet Fit is a Happy Fit!!!!!!
Quiet Fit is a Happy Fit!!!!!!
#9
Looks great man, nice job! This may become a summertime project for me; these photos will be a nice reference. This would also help cut down on any excessive exhaust sounds (should you ever consider this, I know I will )
After reading countless comments about cuts and other injuries during these installs, I will definitely wear gloves! Thanks again, enjoy!
After reading countless comments about cuts and other injuries during these installs, I will definitely wear gloves! Thanks again, enjoy!
Last edited by reako; 03-16-2009 at 12:22 AM.
#11
I did not snap any pic of how to remove the trim panels. But you can check out this thread:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...heel-well.html
Basically just use the trim removing tool to pull the snap pin off. No screw there. This is the removal breakdown:
- spare tire
- tire jack
- cover panel for spare tire
- trim panel at bottom of hatch
- pull off a little of weather trim strip at rear doors which overlap quarter panel on both sides
- remove covers for rear struts and lights on quarter trim panel
- pull on rear quarter panels to loosen panel + use trim removal tools to pull snap pin off
- disconnect cargo light on driver side panel (pop light assembly off from panel before disconnecting, use screw driver cover with cloth to pry it off)
Good luck. BTW, after you done the sound deadening of the front doors, is there any significant improvement? Is it easy to take front door panel off?
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...heel-well.html
Basically just use the trim removing tool to pull the snap pin off. No screw there. This is the removal breakdown:
- spare tire
- tire jack
- cover panel for spare tire
- trim panel at bottom of hatch
- pull off a little of weather trim strip at rear doors which overlap quarter panel on both sides
- remove covers for rear struts and lights on quarter trim panel
- pull on rear quarter panels to loosen panel + use trim removal tools to pull snap pin off
- disconnect cargo light on driver side panel (pop light assembly off from panel before disconnecting, use screw driver cover with cloth to pry it off)
Good luck. BTW, after you done the sound deadening of the front doors, is there any significant improvement? Is it easy to take front door panel off?
Last edited by vwli; 03-17-2009 at 09:16 AM.
#13
Excellent write-up,
I'll be doing the same thing soon, summertime project that'll go along with when I'm ready to to make my fiberglass enclosure in the spare tire area (slim sub set-up). I've used Dynamat before but switched over to a company called Cascade Audio Engineering (Automotive Noise Control - Soundproofing). I really like this stuff used it on my last three cars. You can get different thicknesses so you can adjust the damping level and watch the amount of weight you put into the vehicle. They also have a spray for those hard to reach areas (a little messy though) Oh yeah and it doesn't stink
Anyways thanks for the write-up and the pics, showed me what I have to look forward to this summer.
I'll be doing the same thing soon, summertime project that'll go along with when I'm ready to to make my fiberglass enclosure in the spare tire area (slim sub set-up). I've used Dynamat before but switched over to a company called Cascade Audio Engineering (Automotive Noise Control - Soundproofing). I really like this stuff used it on my last three cars. You can get different thicknesses so you can adjust the damping level and watch the amount of weight you put into the vehicle. They also have a spray for those hard to reach areas (a little messy though) Oh yeah and it doesn't stink
Anyways thanks for the write-up and the pics, showed me what I have to look forward to this summer.
#14
I did not snap any pic of how to remove the trim panels. But you can check out this thread:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...heel-well.html
Basically just use the trim removing tool to pull the snap pin off. No screw there. This is the removal breakdown:
- spare tire
- tire jack
- cover panel for spare tire
- trim panel at bottom of hatch
- pull off a little of weather trim strip at rear doors which overlap quarter panel on both sides
- remove covers for rear struts and lights on quarter trim panel
- pull on rear quarter panels to loosen panel + use trim removal tools to pull snap pin off
- disconnect cargo light on driver side panel (pop light assembly off from panel before disconnecting, use screw driver cover with cloth to pry it off)
Good luck. BTW, after you done the sound deadening of the front doors, is there any significant improvement? Is it easy to take front door panel off?
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...heel-well.html
Basically just use the trim removing tool to pull the snap pin off. No screw there. This is the removal breakdown:
- spare tire
- tire jack
- cover panel for spare tire
- trim panel at bottom of hatch
- pull off a little of weather trim strip at rear doors which overlap quarter panel on both sides
- remove covers for rear struts and lights on quarter trim panel
- pull on rear quarter panels to loosen panel + use trim removal tools to pull snap pin off
- disconnect cargo light on driver side panel (pop light assembly off from panel before disconnecting, use screw driver cover with cloth to pry it off)
Good luck. BTW, after you done the sound deadening of the front doors, is there any significant improvement? Is it easy to take front door panel off?
Yup mid bass did improve a lot. As for the road noise, not much of a difference.
#16
I was making some measurements. 4 shts of 18" x 32" of dynamat extreme left over should be enough for 4 doors on the outer skin. I just ordered 2 packs of CAE DK-1 to cover 4 doors on the inner skin.
#19
Dynamat is extremely overpriced! And what you laid down only cuts out low vibrations for the most part. Different materials will cut out different frequences, from the low to the high. I use eDead at edesignaudio. It's a great value and you can buy by the sq. ft so you'll only buy as much as you need. Since you've done the mat, all you need is v3 (liquid that dries hard great for hard to reach places and contours) and v4 (cuts out high frequencies like wind noise)