Metallic tapping noise from engine
#61
Either mine doesn't make the noise, or I'm finding an unexpected benefit to age related hearing degeneration; it just sounds like a sewing machine to me.
Although it won't help you at speed, try this: roll a piece of printer paper so that you have a fairly tight tube 11" long. Place one end of the tube against your ear, and the other near or on various parts of the engine while it's idling. This may at least help you get a closer fix on where the noise is coming from. Doing this with the hood up, and someone else accelerating through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd is NOT recommended.
Although it won't help you at speed, try this: roll a piece of printer paper so that you have a fairly tight tube 11" long. Place one end of the tube against your ear, and the other near or on various parts of the engine while it's idling. This may at least help you get a closer fix on where the noise is coming from. Doing this with the hood up, and someone else accelerating through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd is NOT recommended.
#63
That noise for me is injector noise and 100% sure of it. I've had this noise for all I can remember. When changed to 310cc injectors, the noise got louder. Very noticable while in low rpm. I installed my turbo at about 18k miles and Readjusted my valves at 58k miles. I still hear it. I'm currently at 59k miles and used Shell 93 octane since I got the turbo. That video posted is not near as loud as mine. Well I can't compare since it is just a video. But lets say I almost sound like a Diesel truck. The injectors are located in front so if you open the hood, you'll hear it right away.
#65
I've had this noise since day one with my Fit. At least in my case, the noise is most definitely valve train (not pinging or injectors). With my Auto transmission Fit, the noise is evident at approx. 1500-1700 rpm. It does it in park or neutral but is most obvious in gear, light load (going slow through a parking lot). I can hear it sometimes on decel as the engine is going back down to idle. Warm or cold makes no difference.
Long story short, I've had the car checked at two dealerships on four separate occasions and have reported the issue to American Honda. The dealership adjusted the valves at 6300 miles (exhaust slightly out of spec) and checked to see if the noise was related to the drive belt/pulleys. No change. (I'm at 11,600 miles now)
When I picked up the car up after the valve adjustment the shop foreman had me pick two '09 Fits to drive off the new car line. They both had varying levels of the exact same noise.
Problem or not, I think it's important to have the issue documented.
#66
correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the fact these need valve adjustment periodically confirm they have mechanical lifters instead of hydraulic lifters (I'm not even sure this is the right term in an OHC engine or even possible). I would think some valve noise (valve lash) to be normal. Minimal in an OHC engine due to the design.
I don't hear any on mine but I'm half deaf or I'm used to hearing some on any OHC engine I've had.
edit: also, with i-vtec there's a lot going on mechanically at different times. If you have to strain to hear this noise I don't think I'd worry about it.
I don't hear any on mine but I'm half deaf or I'm used to hearing some on any OHC engine I've had.
edit: also, with i-vtec there's a lot going on mechanically at different times. If you have to strain to hear this noise I don't think I'd worry about it.
Last edited by Steve244; 02-02-2010 at 10:36 AM.
#67
Jimbob,
so after your valve adjustment at 6300 miles, the noise was still there? Did the intensity of the noise lessen after the adjustment?
Ok, just got back from the dealer, went on a test drive with the shop foreman, and he definitely heard the noise I was talking about. He then said that some noise is acceptable from an engine with solid lifter valves.
The service advisor then told me that the noise is there but it wasn't loud enough to really say "oh yeah it needs to be adjusted". Told me to swing by anytime the noise is louder than normal. I made clear to him that I have 17k miles already and what will happen if the noise becomes louder at say 30k-ish and he said that I should be covered up to 36k miles so it still should be under warranty if it happens. I then told him "Ah ok. Good. But the powertrain warranty is up to 60k miles right so it still should be covered past 36k or in six yrs. as it is part of the powertrain and Honda states it CAN go up to 100k before adjustment." He then confirmed to me that it should be covered under the powertrain warranty.
Funny thing about this car is that it is not as loud as when the car has been driven for about 20 minutes or a little bit over 10 miles. Since the shop foreman drove it for about 3-4 miles, and me being just a mile away from the dealer, it hasn't warmed up enough. As soon as I'm about to arrive at my work, there it is. The noise got louder. Will drive it a week then come back with the engine fully warmed up this time.
So in the mean time, I have an open case with them that I will be monitoring the noise and in the event it gets louder, I will come back. It's annoying to hear the rattle but for now, my ass being covered will have to do.
so after your valve adjustment at 6300 miles, the noise was still there? Did the intensity of the noise lessen after the adjustment?
Ok, just got back from the dealer, went on a test drive with the shop foreman, and he definitely heard the noise I was talking about. He then said that some noise is acceptable from an engine with solid lifter valves.
The service advisor then told me that the noise is there but it wasn't loud enough to really say "oh yeah it needs to be adjusted". Told me to swing by anytime the noise is louder than normal. I made clear to him that I have 17k miles already and what will happen if the noise becomes louder at say 30k-ish and he said that I should be covered up to 36k miles so it still should be under warranty if it happens. I then told him "Ah ok. Good. But the powertrain warranty is up to 60k miles right so it still should be covered past 36k or in six yrs. as it is part of the powertrain and Honda states it CAN go up to 100k before adjustment." He then confirmed to me that it should be covered under the powertrain warranty.
Funny thing about this car is that it is not as loud as when the car has been driven for about 20 minutes or a little bit over 10 miles. Since the shop foreman drove it for about 3-4 miles, and me being just a mile away from the dealer, it hasn't warmed up enough. As soon as I'm about to arrive at my work, there it is. The noise got louder. Will drive it a week then come back with the engine fully warmed up this time.
So in the mean time, I have an open case with them that I will be monitoring the noise and in the event it gets louder, I will come back. It's annoying to hear the rattle but for now, my ass being covered will have to do.
Last edited by onemiglandicho; 02-02-2010 at 02:06 PM.
#68
correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the fact these need valve adjustment periodically confirm they have mechanical lifters instead of hydraulic lifters (I'm not even sure this is the right term in an OHC engine or even possible). I would think some valve noise (valve lash) to be normal. Minimal in an OHC engine due to the design.
I don't hear any on mine but I'm half deaf or I'm used to hearing some on any OHC engine I've had.
edit: also, with i-vtec there's a lot going on mechanically at different times. If you have to strain to hear this noise I don't think I'd worry about it.
I don't hear any on mine but I'm half deaf or I'm used to hearing some on any OHC engine I've had.
edit: also, with i-vtec there's a lot going on mechanically at different times. If you have to strain to hear this noise I don't think I'd worry about it.
You're right about some noise as being acceptable with engines that require valve adjustment. It just bothers me to hear it and would like to get it documented so that if something prematurely wears out, I'm covered with Honda knowing that I opened a case on it.
#69
This is all good info--I know the sound of pusling injectors and that is definitely NOT the noise I hear. I also don't think my noise is valve chatter either--it's just a different kind of noise--it's almost like a rattle/buzz but toward the engine and only at that specific RPM Range. I'm starting to have mine at more varying temps--but for some reason it's not as loud as it was. If you guys get anything out of this--or if I feel it is getting louder, I will go to the dealer.
It kind of freaks me out--but the dealer is over an hour away so I don't want to waste a trip, you know?
Anyways, thank you all for your input and good luck to you all as well.
It kind of freaks me out--but the dealer is over an hour away so I don't want to waste a trip, you know?
Anyways, thank you all for your input and good luck to you all as well.
#70
Wow, the dealer being 1 hr. away is kind of a stretch. But this will give you more time on really trying to isolate the sound you're hearing instead of just going to the dealer immediately.
Last edited by onemiglandicho; 02-03-2010 at 01:26 PM.
#71
Ok, so I think I've got the same noise (clatter) as what you guys have explained. I first experienced it while going over speed bumps or while driving on a bumpy road while in a lower gear and at slight acceleration as I explained in my post.
Now listening more carefully, I can hear the clattering on even roads too, not all the time, and mostly after the engine has warmed up nicely. I first thought it may be gearbox related, but now that some of you have mentioned valve train, it very well could be.
So after driving home today, I let the car idle in the driveway, while in neutral I slowly stepped on the gas and let the revs clime, between +- 1500 and 2000 RPM I can hear a distinct change in engine noise. I would describe it as a clattering sound?
So I’ve also tried to find this noise by looking under the hood. After the engine had cooled down a bit, I gripped the top of the engine in both hands over the black i-VTEC intake and rocked it backwards and forwards with not too much force. I could distinctly hear a clicking kind of sound that seems to come from the bottom part of the engine. Sounds like its coming from the gearbox again. So is it just me hearing the clicking sound and is it related to the clattering or is it just normal. I don’t think it’s an engine mounting, one would hear a knock every time on acceleration?
I also took it to the dealer for inspection, who could also her the sound while we went on a test drive. He first thought it may be brake calliper related, but we ruled that one out. So he said he would drive one of their demo cars and let me know if it too makes the sound. Still waiting, need to follow up again.
Now listening more carefully, I can hear the clattering on even roads too, not all the time, and mostly after the engine has warmed up nicely. I first thought it may be gearbox related, but now that some of you have mentioned valve train, it very well could be.
So after driving home today, I let the car idle in the driveway, while in neutral I slowly stepped on the gas and let the revs clime, between +- 1500 and 2000 RPM I can hear a distinct change in engine noise. I would describe it as a clattering sound?
So I’ve also tried to find this noise by looking under the hood. After the engine had cooled down a bit, I gripped the top of the engine in both hands over the black i-VTEC intake and rocked it backwards and forwards with not too much force. I could distinctly hear a clicking kind of sound that seems to come from the bottom part of the engine. Sounds like its coming from the gearbox again. So is it just me hearing the clicking sound and is it related to the clattering or is it just normal. I don’t think it’s an engine mounting, one would hear a knock every time on acceleration?
I also took it to the dealer for inspection, who could also her the sound while we went on a test drive. He first thought it may be brake calliper related, but we ruled that one out. So he said he would drive one of their demo cars and let me know if it too makes the sound. Still waiting, need to follow up again.
#72
My AT has this same noise, I would characterize it as a "dieseling" sound, kind of a rattling noise from the valvetrain area. I hear it through the firewall or windshield or both. I hear it in the same RPM range, roughly 1800-2000 rpm most. Warmer is worse. I am using 0w-20 Amsoil and a NAPA filter, I will see if 5w-20 and a different filter make a difference. I also have driveline vibration I don't get when driving other GEs and plan to check my valve clearance once I have about 4 hours to do it.
Last edited by rhyneba; 03-15-2010 at 12:20 AM.
#73
Justdev,
I might try rocking my engine and see if I can hear some clicking sound but, I highly doubt that the valvetrain noise that I am hearing is coming from the gearbox. I'm just going to compare the two.
I've given up on going back to the dealer to have them check it again as the noise is not any louder than before. I might still contemplate on going back but right now I'm planning on adjusting it myself once I hit 15% on my oil life monitor so that after the adjustment I can get the oil changed a.s.a.p.
Rhyneba,
We both and as others in here have the same experience. I aslo get the noise when the engine has already warmed up. I already changed my filter. I was using Puolator Pure One before and now I'm using Wix a.k.a Napa Gold but the noise is still there. You could try changing the filter, I'm justing giving you my experience that changing the oil filter didn't result in any change in my car.
How many miles (both of you) have on your cars?
I might try rocking my engine and see if I can hear some clicking sound but, I highly doubt that the valvetrain noise that I am hearing is coming from the gearbox. I'm just going to compare the two.
I've given up on going back to the dealer to have them check it again as the noise is not any louder than before. I might still contemplate on going back but right now I'm planning on adjusting it myself once I hit 15% on my oil life monitor so that after the adjustment I can get the oil changed a.s.a.p.
Rhyneba,
We both and as others in here have the same experience. I aslo get the noise when the engine has already warmed up. I already changed my filter. I was using Puolator Pure One before and now I'm using Wix a.k.a Napa Gold but the noise is still there. You could try changing the filter, I'm justing giving you my experience that changing the oil filter didn't result in any change in my car.
How many miles (both of you) have on your cars?
#76
Selden, if you have any hearing loss you probably don't hear this my friend.
I'm just now working on the problem for myself, I have had no customer complaints about this noise. I am relieved, however, that others hear the same noise.
First I removed the right-side mini-wiper, just to eliminate the possibility of wind noise from it, then removed both. Neither cured the noise but I left the right one off and retrofitted a 32" blade to the left side. Rain-X did the rest, I think it looks cool and will remove the guts to the right side when I adjust the valves...
The noise is very high pitched; a random-ish tapping. it seems most audible when the torque converter has locked and the RPM are low, 1400-2000 under light load or light acceleration. There is a bulletin about some Accords and Odysseys (I think it only works in IE) for a similar sound. It varies between a rattle, tapping, faint detonation and wind noise lol. The other night I was on new section of pavement with about a 30mph tailwind and 30lbs in the tires. I thought the noise might have been loud enough to be recordable on my cellular but it wasn't.
I think DO my car has more mechanical noise than I find average on other Fits I drive day-to-day. I changed the trans fluid at 15k (when I got it) because it looked darker than I would like to see. My transmission makes a sick crunching sound when put in drive after reversing AND stopping completely. If I sit still in gear after shifting to drive the noise does not happen every time, but still does occasionally. It is NOT brake pad shift, I have not moved yet nor applied the brakes. My transmission shifts strangely when cold both environmentally or operationally. It also makes a "shshing" sound when I put it in gear, either reverse or drive. Mine also has the stop lurch which I circumvent by coming to a stop in neutral. How I wish for a paddle combination to invoke neutral. My valves are a bit noisy, the first owner drove it like an ass. I would have adjusted them by now were it a GD.
I will try to adjust the valves this weekend and see if it makes any difference. It'll give me a chance to clean the throttle body and relearn the idle...
You guys are all great, BTW, even Sexydrive555, lately
b
Last edited by rhyneba; 03-15-2010 at 08:34 PM.
#77
Ah, didn't know you work at a dealer. LOL.
Yeah same here, if only I had a GD3 would have already adjusted my valves. Hehehehe. I'm not that sure but I think we (GE owners) could get away w/o removing the cowl when adjusting the valves, "I think".
I am eagerly waiting on the result of your valve adjustment. Please drop by and give us your opinion if the noise has gone away. And also, If it is possible for you to post at a thread I made in the maintenance section for GE8 about torque specs for valve adjustment and so far, with almost 100 views, no one has adjusted valves in their GE. I think the specs is the same as the GD but you never know right. Hehehe.
I would have adjusted it a.s.a.p. if only I lived at a house and not at an apartment. I'm planning on doing it at our apartment complex's parking lot. LOL!!!!
Yeah same here, if only I had a GD3 would have already adjusted my valves. Hehehehe. I'm not that sure but I think we (GE owners) could get away w/o removing the cowl when adjusting the valves, "I think".
I am eagerly waiting on the result of your valve adjustment. Please drop by and give us your opinion if the noise has gone away. And also, If it is possible for you to post at a thread I made in the maintenance section for GE8 about torque specs for valve adjustment and so far, with almost 100 views, no one has adjusted valves in their GE. I think the specs is the same as the GD but you never know right. Hehehe.
I would have adjusted it a.s.a.p. if only I lived at a house and not at an apartment. I'm planning on doing it at our apartment complex's parking lot. LOL!!!!
#78
My transmission makes a sick crunching sound when put in drive after reversing AND stopping completely. If I sit still in gear after shifting to drive the noise does not happen every time, but still does occasionally. It is NOT brake pad shift, I have not moved yet nor applied the brakes
Dan
Last edited by Shockwave199; 03-16-2010 at 02:40 AM.
#79
Sorry in advance lol....
I adjusted the valves on the blue hamster today. I couldn't wait for the weekend after reading the thread and things were slow at the dealership. The job was not very hard but the plastics part is most challenging. Every valve was very loose. The idle is silent now, I can hear the injectors pulsing distinctly. I let it run for ten minutes to relearn idle....
Then I locked it up and drove another car home to check a diag. So I have no idea if the noise is still there. SOAB.
Tomorrow.
b
Then I locked it up and drove another car home to check a diag. So I have no idea if the noise is still there. SOAB.
Tomorrow.
b
Last edited by rhyneba; 03-16-2010 at 09:17 PM.
#80
Interesting. So people with this noise could be very specific about what it is from your work, when brining it into the dealer. Could this be warranty work? I sure hope so. I may have had this noise when the car was new, but I don't hear it now. Or, I've gotten used to it. But I've been listening and I don't hear it.
Dan
Dan