Maybe something like this would work:

BD Batteries Racing Batteries - AGM Racing Batteries

 

That's the most powerful battery I've seen to date in that size, and the most expensive.

Thanks for posting it.

+rep

 

The only problem with this battery is the orientation of the (+) and (-) terminals, they're on the wrong side for our Fits.

The manufacturer does custom buld orders, but you can't just buy a Total Power battery off the shelf with the terminals reversed.

It's too bad, cause for $20 more than the Braille, you get 225 additional
CCA.

 

does anyone used or try these batteries?
they have small batteries, and i wonder if it will fit

Kinetik - High Current Car Audio Power Cells
Dimensions:7" x 3" x 6.5"

Kinetik - High Current Car Audio Power Cells
Dimensions:7.6" x 5" x 6"

 

Have you had this problem checked by the dealer? Auto electrical problems can be very difficult to isolate, what you're seeng could be due to a battery, alternator/regulator, grounding, or switch resistance problem - or some other factor I'm not considering.

Considering the incredibly puny ground and power wires to the battery on the Fit, if you do go to a higher CCA battery, you might want to consider wiring upgrades, too.

 

Since I posted that battery a month ago I upgraded "the big three" in my car (Alternator lead, engine ground wire and battery ground wire). Now I think I'm going to keep the stock battery. The lights don't dim with the upgraded wire.

 

I'm still going with a new battery in the near future. Last week, I accidentally left the lights on (40 degrees F) for an hour and a half.

The battery was not completely drained (i.e. radio and nav did not lose codes) but it wasn't enough juice to turn the car over and I had to get a hot shot.

Not that upgraded wiring couldn't help, but I'm sure the system can handle 500 CCA as is.

 

I think I'm going for the 51R at Costco (made by Johnston Controls) for like $60.

The Braille is 550 CCA versus the 51R which is 500 CCA, but costs nearly three times as much. Not exactly bang for the buck, plus I've read quite a few reports of cold weather failures.

Total Power makes a battery with 800 CCA with the proper terminal orientation for our Fits. It would be my battery of choice if I had $250 to spend on a battery.

So, like I said, I'll be getting a Costco 51R some time this week, and I'll report back on "fitment".

 

Does it fit? Don't keep us hanging.

 

I picked up a 51R battery from Costco yesterday. At 9" long the battery drops into place totally wedged against the airbox on the left and the headlight housing on the right. The plastic housing around the OE battery is no longer usable with the longer 51R.

The welded bracket that acts as a battery tray is 5.5" wide at its least wide point, so no problem with the 5" width of the 51R.

The problem is in connecting the (+) terminal. The fusebox or "buss" built into the (+) terminal cannot be connected due to lack of space between the battery and the airbox. I considered trimming the ribs of the airbox to accomodate the "neck" of the fusebox that feeds the wire to the fastening nut, but the neck is too long for that to work, and I could accidentally put a hole in the airbox while breaking off the ribs. I could hacksaw the length of the fusebox "neck", and flip the wire so it feeds from the front of the battery, over the top, and to the fusebox, retightening it in this upside-down position. It works, but places a bend on the wire that with time may cause the wire to shear over time because it now faces upward instead of downward. Even then, the "neck" of the fusebox will not allow the terminal to move enough to the right to attach to the battery post. Cutting off this "neck" should allow the terminal to move enough to the right for attachment to the post, but I'm sure this fusebox is not cheap, and the "fix" then becomes irreversible. In the event of a catastrophic electrical failure, I'd like the option of reinstalling the factory battery and bring the wire/fusebox back to its original orientation to circumvent voiding of my electrical warranty.

The only other option for using the 51R is to purchase a top-post to side-post terminal adapter and attaching the side-post part of the adapter through the holes that now house the nut/bolt that tightens the ring to the battery post, leaving the ring itself unfilled by the battery post and the terminal adapter attached to the end of the ring at the holes that originally housed the nut and bolt.

This configuration should allow the fusebox to move far enough away from the airbox to negate cutting down the "neck", and rotate the right front portion of the fusebox over the top of the battery so the fusebox is supported and not hanging in mid-air behind the batteryn where it could snap off.

I guess I could return the Costco battery and go back to the stock battery and terminal/fusebox orientation, but I really want the extra cranking power for cold mornings. Another option is to go with the shorter Braille 3121 (AGM, 545CCA) for like $190, but that's alot of money, and Brailles reportedly are not the best for cold weather performance. I'm not happy with the modifications needed for the 51R to work (both aesthetically and concern that the wire will eventually shear because it faces upward and not directly across the top of the battery), but the mods are reversible if need be, and for just the cost of a (+) terminal adapter (like $10 for the set) and the $57 cost of the 51R, should do the job.

What do you all think? Any constructive imput would be appreciated. I know a photo here is worth more than my thousand words, but the wife and both our cameras are visiting the grandkids for the next week and a half, so sorry for the lack of pictures.

 

Install an intake?

 

badself-

If you have the budget, consider installing the PRM intake. It has a lot of advantages over other intakes that would justify the PRM purchase, but it also would give you all the extra room you need for the battery.

I am waiting to buy the battery until I have the PRM intake that I have been waiting months for (due to arrive in 1-2 weeks). Then I will buy the 51R Optima Yellow Top.

 

What's the cost of the intake? I'm guessing turnaround time for somebody just getting interested is probably a few months. Hopefully, use of the intake does not throw any codes.

Also, for the purpose of emissions testing, I guess I'd have to reinstall the stock setup each time I go in. If I recall, the PRM intake is not CARB certified.

Still, quite tempting, and it would solve the battery issue.

 

what's the law in md on emissions?
in cali where it's strict as hell, new cars only need to be tested in 4 years, so i doubt that's a big deal.

 

In MD, they pull you in for emissions every two years.

 

that sucks.
it's 2 years here in cali also, but not for new cars.

 

"CARB" is meaningless in MD- California Air Resources Board. Group Buy price on PRM intakes for '09 Fits is $230. Changing to after-market intakes does not "throw codes".

The delivery delay for the '09 A/T PRM intake is due to mid-stream design changes. M/T intakes are in stock. If you order the A/T intake today, you will get it the same time as those of us who paid two months ago. After that, they will be in stock because production design will be set.

 

What he said is very true. I never had a problem the two times I had to get E-checked in MD with the Grand Am, and it had aftermarket intake, exhaust, and a hi flow cat.

 

I noticed a few times that when I go to start my car it hesitates for a quick second and then runs normal. Just this morning I happened to check the voltage from my SGII right before I started the car and noticed it was 11.5v from sitting overnight in the semi cold temps of about 29F. Any idea what the deal is?

PS If I hijacked I am completely sorry. I am hoping this is related.

 

battery voltage can vary around 12v. To get a real reading, you have to look at the voltmeter while someone is cranking the starter, or also measure it as the engine is running. Even then it's not accurate as an oscilloscope to get the real voltage spikes or valleys during the startup. Most likely there's nothing wrong with your battery.