Synthetic vs Conventional Oil - Any comments?
#21
I agree with Mahout. The long distance between oil changes is driven by the manufacture marketing trying to have a low "Avg Yearly Maintenance" number on the window sticker. It is not driven by the drivetrain engineer within the design group of the company. For those that are just barely able to get $177/month financing for a new car, think about what a difference it would be if the Versa & Vibe took $150/year Avg Yearly Maintenance and the Fit was $225. That is marketing folks, and the manufacturers need to compete and be equivalent in this space. I would say that the driveline engineer does specify which oil grade (like 5W-20) which should be used in the engine. There are reasons they don't want the use of 15W-40.
#22
To Put Synthetic Oil In Perspective:
Diesel truck engines run it and change at 100,000 mile intervals. Try that with dino. The weak link in using synthetic is always the filter. ALWAYS use a quality filter like Pure One, OEM, etc and RUN don't walk from garbage filters such as FRAM. These types of filters can truly cause engine failure, it's rare but it does happen because of such poor quality components, filter media, valves, etc.
#23
I've been running on Mobil1 ECO synthetic oil (Ow-20) since about 1000 miles popped up on the odometer. About 1500 miles into it, driving at high speeds sometimes, and flooring it on many occassions, idle is still very smooth, startup is quick, and no problems. I believe my oil life meter just dropped to 80% when i put about 1.5K on the oil
#24
let it break in first...
I am all for synthetic, but after a proper break-in. Synthetic will cut friction, increase HP, and increase MPG.
If you don't allow a break-in with normal oil, it will be hard to come by with the reduced friction/wear with synthetic.
I myself will go 7000 miles between changes of pure synthetic, if they are freeway miles.
City miles - stop and go.....4000 miles.
Severe use (high heat--dust--hard driving).....3000 miles.
r90s
P.S.: Please note what I said "will go" in number of miles before oil change. Under each of the stated usage conditions, I would normally change the pure synthetic a bit sooner if practical.
If you don't allow a break-in with normal oil, it will be hard to come by with the reduced friction/wear with synthetic.
I myself will go 7000 miles between changes of pure synthetic, if they are freeway miles.
City miles - stop and go.....4000 miles.
Severe use (high heat--dust--hard driving).....3000 miles.
r90s
P.S.: Please note what I said "will go" in number of miles before oil change. Under each of the stated usage conditions, I would normally change the pure synthetic a bit sooner if practical.
Last edited by r90s; 09-22-2008 at 12:18 PM.
#25
I am all for synthetic, but after a proper break-in. Synthetic will cut friction, increase HP, and increase MPG.
If you don't allow a break-in with normal oil, it will be hard to come by with the reduced friction/wear with synthetic.
I myself will go 7000 miles between changes of pure synthetic, if they are freeway miles.
City miles - stop and go.....4000 miles.
Severe use (high heat--dust--hard driving).....3000 miles.
r90s
P.S.: Please note what I said "will go" in number of miles before oil change. Under each of the stated usage conditions, I would normally change the pure synthetic a bit sooner if practical.
If you don't allow a break-in with normal oil, it will be hard to come by with the reduced friction/wear with synthetic.
I myself will go 7000 miles between changes of pure synthetic, if they are freeway miles.
City miles - stop and go.....4000 miles.
Severe use (high heat--dust--hard driving).....3000 miles.
r90s
P.S.: Please note what I said "will go" in number of miles before oil change. Under each of the stated usage conditions, I would normally change the pure synthetic a bit sooner if practical.
Last edited by FitCanada_Girl; 09-22-2008 at 12:36 PM.
#26
What is the proper break-in before going to synthetic? I'm picking up my Sport this Wednesday and will definitely be moving to Mobil1 50W20 synthetic, as soon as it is adviseable to do so. I'll be sure to pop into the Honda service department to see what they recommend...
#27
What is the proper break-in before going to synthetic? I'm picking up my Sport this Wednesday and will definitely be moving to Mobil1 50W20 synthetic, as soon as it is adviseable to do so. I'll be sure to pop into the Honda service department to see what they recommend...
I would go at least 2000 miles, and would prefer 3000. I would change the oil filter early from recommended and top up oil. Then use advised oil and filter change until the engine is loose and cool running.
be sure to pamper for first 100 miles.... partial pamper to 200 miles.. and so on..
#29
I would go at least 2000 miles, and would prefer 3000. I would change the oil filter early from recommended and top up oil. Then use advised oil and filter change until the engine is loose and cool running.
be sure to pamper for first 100 miles.... partial pamper to 200 miles.. and so on..
be sure to pamper for first 100 miles.... partial pamper to 200 miles.. and so on..
...wait to about 5000 km (exact conversion for 3000 miles = 4827 km) before switching to synthetic. Manual recommends a 1000 km break-in period (no hard starts/braking and I assume no cruise as varying speed would be recommended) so I'll stick to that....
Last edited by FitCanada_Girl; 09-22-2008 at 12:42 PM.
#30
Diesel truck engines run it and change at 100,000 mile intervals. Try that with dino. The weak link in using synthetic is always the filter. ALWAYS use a quality filter like Pure One, OEM, etc and RUN don't walk from garbage filters such as FRAM. These types of filters can truly cause engine failure, it's rare but it does happen because of such poor quality components, filter media, valves, etc.
I will be getting my (actually my wife's" '09 Fit Sport today or tomorrow! I'm going keep the break in oil for the complete first interval, then switch to Mobil-1 0W-20. You will get better mileage from synthetics.
#31
What is the proper break-in before going to synthetic? I'm picking up my Sport this Wednesday and will definitely be moving to Mobil 1 5W20 synthetic, as soon as it is adviseable to do so. I'll be sure to pop into the Honda service department to see what they recommend...
#32
I've found that most mechanics, when it comes to oil, will be old school and tell you synthetics are a waste of money. Don't believe them. No one can tell you that synthetics are not compatible with a certain car or engine. It's just not and never will be true.
#33
Add to the longevity the fact that synthetics don't contain parrafin (wax) that can thicken and sludge up your engine. Synthetics were developed for jet engines. You will need a bypass-oil-filter from Amsoil to go 100K on the same oil, but the oil never breaks down. I like Wix (Napa Gold) filters.
I will be getting my (actually my wife's" '09 Fit Sport today or tomorrow! I'm going keep the break in oil for the complete first interval, then switch to Mobil-1 0W-20. You will get better mileage from synthetics.
I will be getting my (actually my wife's" '09 Fit Sport today or tomorrow! I'm going keep the break in oil for the complete first interval, then switch to Mobil-1 0W-20. You will get better mileage from synthetics.
#34
I like Wix filters also. ( to the other guy)... On oil, I like Motul, and Royal Purple. Thoughts anyone. (I bet there are a number of good ones).
Fit north country girl, It sounds like you have it down. Thats it, vary speed, let it coast down through the gears, then go up through the gears. Don't of course go nuts and get hit in the rear because of need to pamper car. Slowly increase loads on engine and drive train as engine breaks in. There is no definite miles (number) for all this, but when you first get the car, you will be able to feel and smell that it is tight and hot.
Fit north country girl, It sounds like you have it down. Thats it, vary speed, let it coast down through the gears, then go up through the gears. Don't of course go nuts and get hit in the rear because of need to pamper car. Slowly increase loads on engine and drive train as engine breaks in. There is no definite miles (number) for all this, but when you first get the car, you will be able to feel and smell that it is tight and hot.
#35
That works out to 7.5K. That's a little too convenient. Is it fake or actually based on oil condition or engine operation? Noob question here with '09.
#36
FWIW, I've kept my last 3 Hondas until circa 175K miles and never used a drop of synthetic in any of them. Engine life was never the reason for selling, and some of them I beat the snot out of them. 30 years ago, sure, there were problems with deposits, but with modern detergent oils, I have not encountered any gunk building up. I don't think there's any doubt that synthetic is a better oil--the question is whether it's worth it for your particular usage.
I am thinking of changing the oil in my Fit early (maybe at 50%?) depending on what the maintenance minder says. But, I will only be using dino oil. I'd rather change it twice as often when the oil costs 1/10. I usually get dino oil for 50 cents a quart after rebate. Synthetic costs $5 a quart. I would only consider synthetic if I tracked the car.
#37
BINGO! I don't think it has any kind of synthetic sensor It will be interesting to see what the maintenance minder actually shows over time and usage.
FWIW, I've kept my last 3 Hondas until circa 175K miles and never used a drop of synthetic in any of them. Engine life was never the reason for selling, and some of them I beat the snot out of them. 30 years ago, sure, there were problems with deposits, but with modern detergent oils, I have not encountered any gunk building up. I don't think there's any doubt that synthetic is a better oil--the question is whether it's worth it for your particular usage.
I am thinking of changing the oil in my Fit early (maybe at 50%?) depending on what the maintenance minder says. But, I will only be using dino oil. I'd rather change it twice as often when the oil costs 1/10. I usually get dino oil for 50 cents a quart after rebate. Synthetic costs $5 a quart. I would only consider synthetic if I tracked the car.
FWIW, I've kept my last 3 Hondas until circa 175K miles and never used a drop of synthetic in any of them. Engine life was never the reason for selling, and some of them I beat the snot out of them. 30 years ago, sure, there were problems with deposits, but with modern detergent oils, I have not encountered any gunk building up. I don't think there's any doubt that synthetic is a better oil--the question is whether it's worth it for your particular usage.
I am thinking of changing the oil in my Fit early (maybe at 50%?) depending on what the maintenance minder says. But, I will only be using dino oil. I'd rather change it twice as often when the oil costs 1/10. I usually get dino oil for 50 cents a quart after rebate. Synthetic costs $5 a quart. I would only consider synthetic if I tracked the car.
#38
Turbo engines high heat require synthetics. Mechanics will tell you horror stories about coke buildup in a turbo that used conventional. A very costly mistake indeed.
#40
I used synthetic on both my fits and civic as well, now all the cars in my household run synthetic. The oil lasts way longer than conventional oil. Burns much cleaner. Before, I would change the oil every 3000-4000 miles (conventional) and with synthetic, you can actually go to close to 10,000 for every change, color, burn, and smell is beautiful at that mileage, go figure. I change it every 5-6k though. But yes, synthetic is the way to go.