Dash Cam Hardwire Earth Point 2012 Jazz
#1
Dash Cam Hardwire Earth Point 2012 Jazz
Hi all, I have a 2012 Jazz. I'm hard-wiring in a Nextbase dash cam to the fuse box under the steering wheel, and have two questions:
1. Which is the most suitable fuse? I was thinking of using the "cig lighter" one. Is there a fuse that turns on ONLY when the ignition is fully started, as opposed to when the accessories come on? It's fine if not. (I'm aware not to use an "always-on" fuse).
2. What is the most suitable eating point? (For the forked "U" style black lead). This needs to go under a screw or bolt that connects to bare metal, however I only see BIG bolts under there, and most don't connect to metal.
saw in a video some dude somehow routed his to the passenger side, however someone else mentioned there's apparently a suitable bolt under the panel that covers the headlight angle switch / bonnet lever? Need a bit of advice on this.
Bear in mind I'm an amateur at car fiddling, so try not to get too technical!
1. Which is the most suitable fuse? I was thinking of using the "cig lighter" one. Is there a fuse that turns on ONLY when the ignition is fully started, as opposed to when the accessories come on? It's fine if not. (I'm aware not to use an "always-on" fuse).
2. What is the most suitable eating point? (For the forked "U" style black lead). This needs to go under a screw or bolt that connects to bare metal, however I only see BIG bolts under there, and most don't connect to metal.
saw in a video some dude somehow routed his to the passenger side, however someone else mentioned there's apparently a suitable bolt under the panel that covers the headlight angle switch / bonnet lever? Need a bit of advice on this.
Bear in mind I'm an amateur at car fiddling, so try not to get too technical!
#2
Picking an electrical circuit to tap into can be done by you. If you have a simple electrical test light, you can test the fuses quickly and determine for yourself which one would work the best. Since you want a keyed power source, ground your test light and leave the key off. Use the test light on both sides of the face of fuses in the fuse box where the electrical probe points are located. You want a circuit that doesn't light up the test light when the key is off. If the test light lights up when you turn the key to the on position, you have a keyed circuit. The fuses are marked under the dash as to what circuit the fuse protects and the amp rating.
To tap into the fuse box you're going to need to buy a "add a fuse" adaptor. You can find them at auto part stores or on Ebay. The adaptor adds a new circuit to an existing circuit and protects your new circuit with it's own fuse.
To tap into the fuse box you're going to need to buy a "add a fuse" adaptor. You can find them at auto part stores or on Ebay. The adaptor adds a new circuit to an existing circuit and protects your new circuit with it's own fuse.
#3
Thanks mate. Unfortunately I don't have a tester or any specialist equipment, this is just a one-off.
I've found a fuse that's not always-on already, was just wondering if anyone familiar wit the car knew of one that's only on when the ignition is fully started, rather than when the accessory sockets and other electronics are switched on.
I've already got all the adaptors and everything I need in the Nextbase kit so I'm all good with that. Though I'll buy a normal mini-fuse as this car has the micro ones.
I've found a fuse that's not always-on already, was just wondering if anyone familiar wit the car knew of one that's only on when the ignition is fully started, rather than when the accessory sockets and other electronics are switched on.
I've already got all the adaptors and everything I need in the Nextbase kit so I'm all good with that. Though I'll buy a normal mini-fuse as this car has the micro ones.
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