Hey everyone, I've got a 13 sport 5MT that just got 120k. I'm getting a stutter on acceleration from a stop. I recently did an A12 service, spark plugs are <1 year old, valve gapped around the same time. Only "mod" is a K&N filter, which I've had for 5 years. No CEL/MIL on. So the only thing I was left with is the original clutch.

What I'm really am looking for is1) what clutch/flywheel is everyone using for DD.
2) what else should I do while I'm there (ex rear main seal)
3) what TOB and fork bearing is best? I'm looking to get another 120K out of her
TIA, I appreciate the input!

 

I didn't do anything extra while in there besides the swap. I put on an exedy and a luk flywheel. timken is one of the two real bearing manufacturers. think the other is fag. so they're good for bearings.. Elected to buy a blind hole bearing puller also.
Did replace an abs sensor cuz I ripped one's wire, some sensor on the tranny when it rolled off my shins (VSS,) and re-lubed the cv bearings with some redline CV grease because pulling those went awry also. It was a terrible weekend, as well as my first time swapping a clutch on a FWD/fully removing a trans.

the exedy clutch has less surface area, so it's a little more forgiving. Also only has single springs vs. spring in a spring like the stocker. Couldn't find a machinist to resurface the OE flywheel or balance the two as a pair. Apparently the locals dont have anything with a small enough arbor to spin 'em on.
The luk flywheel saved about 1lb I think.

If you've got the pockets, you could check out Spec for a fancier clutch that they claim to be smoother than OE, or upgrade to a more aggressive one.

 

Great answer, thanks! I'm assuming you are referring to Spec-D? Are there any seals with worrying about?

 

Is the shudder felt from starting from a stop and indication that the clutch is going bad? Mine does that but it does not slip when mashing the accelerator and being in a high gear.