99900 miles 2013

Just bought it 6 MO ago from a Honda dealer

I had the dealer replace the plugs and do a valve adjustment.

ALL was great till 2 MO ago it started taking a few cranks for the engine to fire off.

After starting it starts with in 1 sec of less

I see the 3 to 4 sec start in the morning after a overnight stay.

No other problems with millage is good, but engine is Smooth etc.

Also since I got in in Jan 2021 I have only put 300 miles on it.

Weather is warm 60f to 95f

Using mid grade high guality fuel

Any help will be helpful

Rick from, Colorado altitude 1 mile

 

I'd say a weak battery. These cars are notorious for having the bare minimum CCA and battery capacity to start these cars.

Plus you're in Colorado, thin air and temps are also lower. I can see why a bad battery's symptoms might be exaggerated in that climate.

 

The battery was new in Jan from the dealer with a honda battery.
when using the starter the crank speed sounds good
Rick

 

Hmmm. Mind getting us a video of how long it takes to crank? A few cranks is not abnormal by any means.

Perhaps let the fuel pump prime (Key On, Engine Off) a couple seconds before cranking.

 

Air filter is clean? Throttle body is clean?
After that, you would need to check the fuel pressure, compression, go from there.

 

I just drove three Honda pilots (older models) the Honda Civic last summer when I was looking for a car. And the Honda I own in high school they all seem like they take a second to start... Idk. Maybe it's the old ones??

 

On first start (after sitting a while), the fuel pump has to prime the lines to make sure they're at/near full PSI. If you're too fast, you could be trying to start the engine before it's ready.

Next time, try turning the key to the ON II position and then wait a few seconds before cranking the engine.

 

81k 2012 Fit here myself, and have noticed the same issue over the past year. Original owner so I remember the glory days well ahem...wish I bought that Corolla. So my Fit also takes an extra few cranks to get it going; and once its warmed up, its quick on a second crank session. Past year, had valves adjusted at dealers, replaced plugs, air filter changed, even new battery this Feb was added (good cranks and amp). Still same symptom as OP.

One guess I've been pondering is this: could our A/C compressors be "on" (despite the light being off) and putting additional load on the vehicle especially on start up? I'm actually posting this on another thread, and is why I came here tonight to ask; see my profile I guess if you want to follow that...

 

When your ac compressor is receiving power the electromagnet on it will suck in the compressor clutch in the center of the pulley wheel making the compressor kick on. I know it's a little cramped on that side of the engine but you may be able to see if the middle part of the compressor's pulley is rotating while the engine is on.

The condenser fan is also supposed to kick on intermittently when the compressor is powered. when yer lookin in the engine bay, it's the leftmost large fan.
Assuming that it's running when it's not supposed to suggests you'd have an electrical relay for the compressor/ac system that's failed in the on position. but then you *should* have cold air when you have the blower turned on, unless your ac doesn't work..

Should also hike your idle rpm up. can't recall but think this little engine normally idles at 800 and jumps to about 1k with ac.

As ac systems wear from use they're supposed to lose friction material on their compressor clutch, assuming that a stray rock didnt yet ding the condenser in the lower front grill and make off with all your freon. so what a person should get from an ac system that aged naturally is actually a compressor clutch that won't engage because the distance between it and the field coil (electromagnet thingy) has increased.

If a person wanted a faster start-up, yeah, having plenty of electricity to send to the starter via a more juicy battery should ensure that power deprivation isn't the problem.. the other components involved in the exchange are the starter itself and the engine. Age could rob the starter of some of its efficiency, like wear on the starter's little pinion gear increasing distance between it and the flywheel/reducing its leverage, or uh. runout, carbon build-up gumming stuff up and worn brushes (does our starter have brushes? 😂

​​​​​​Also engine efficiency. An engine that's losing compression via headgasket or piston rings, got worn/loose spark plugs, out of spec or barely in spec valves.. uhm. vacuum leaks, intake grime.
I suppose a failing emissions system could also cause issues, more likely for those who drive salty roads. dirty old o2 sensors, a plugged up catalytic converter, exhaust leaks not bad enough to throw a code, but enough to make the engine think it's running a little lean. I think back-pressure may also be a factor, but i'm still learning exhaust stuff.

I think that's the bulk of factors without getting too crazy.
​​​​​​​Oh. electrical grounds! I know you're out there, Fiting, with your voltage drop tests and stuff that's over my head.

 

I'm in an 09 fit I've had for a year, battery sucks but I replaced the cables to it and ground and it's less prone to not starting after the lights were left on for 5 minutes. Not sure if this will help you at all, but its an easy job.

 

Maybe replace the baby battery with a man-sized one....lol
51R 500CCA
It's easy and made a big diff on my 2010 Fit.

 

I have a 2012 auto fit and its starts like this on the summer blend of gas. When the gas stations switch over to the winter blend, no problems at all starting.

 

Try a tank of 87 octane.

Higher octane fuel can actually make an engine more difficult to start.
Found this 20-year-old link that explains the rationale:
https://www.newsday.com/auto-doc-why...rting-1.756847