My project this morning is to replace the coil packs and spark plugs on my 2012 Fit. I ordered everything from Rock Auto.

I could really use some advice. The gap on the new plugs is different than the OEM that came in the Car.

The part number from Rock Auto as noted on my invoice is NGK 97138. The NGK number on the Spark plug is ZFR6AIX-11S.
The OEM Spark Plug is IZFR6K 13.

Should I gap the new Spark plugs to 1.3mm or leave them at 1.1mm?

Thanks

 

I bought Denso plugs when I did mine, gapped them to factory OEM spec, been fine ever since.

Good luck with the plug job, that's a right pain in the gooch. Consider doing your valve lash adjustment at the same time, it requires 99% the same steps as doing the plugs and coils as far as things that get removed from the car.

 

Thanks not a bad idea.

 

All of the info you're requesting here can be found on NGK's web site- that's how I found it. The oem spark plugs are #6774 laser iridium- part # 1ZFR6K13 and should be gapped at .052". The plugs you bought from Rock Auto are #97138 Iridiun IX- part number #ZFR6AIX-115 and should also be gapped at .052".

NGK lists four plugs for the 2012 Fit and the recommended gap is .052" for all four plugs. I hope this is helpful.

 

Yes. Very helpful. What I did not expect was spark plug on cylinder #2 being so loose. That's probably why cylinder #2 would occasionally throw a code and put the car in limp mode until I turned it off and restarted.

 

You're probably right about the trouble code and cause. The torque on your new plugs is very very important. The spark plugs in Fits are known to back out of their threaded bores over time- as you're finding. There are lots of posts on this forum about this issue. The last post I read about torquing the plugs into the Fit's aluminum head suggested 20 ft. lbs instead of the original 13-14 ft. lbs. Some are even using a small amount of blue thread locker on the plug's threads to help with this problem.

My suggestion is for you to do your own search on this site about the spark plug loosening issue, and then decide for yourself how tight you want to torque the plugs and if you're going to use thread locker or not.

 

My research agrees with everything you said. I probably would have used blue thread lock on cylinder #2 if I could have found it (just moved and I can't find anything). I did torque the spark plugs to about 16 FT/LBS and even gave cylinder #2 a double click. If I have other problems I would probably definitely use blue thread lock with NGK Ruthenium HX plugs. They might outlast the car.

I have about 120,000 miles on the car and other than maintenance I've had to very little trouble since I purchased it used. It had 7300 miles on the car and was a rebuilt/ salvage title. This is the fifth salvage fit I've bought and I've yet to be burned. Two of my boys still drive the ones I found for them a couple of years ago.
Thanks for your help.

 

Has anyone tried the cheaper NGK 2756 BKR6E-11 V-Power Plug?
This plug here:
https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9328

 

Our 2009 Fit Sport went 211K miles with the original spark plugs.

That was about 1000 miles too far. The plugs were working perfectly until we parked the car for 4 weeks. Upon return there was a slight miss upon acceleration. After a week or two of "I better look into that" with no check engine indication, the missing turned much more severe. This was picked up by the computer and the engine was put into a safe mode, limited to 2500 RPM and very low power.

For anyone running original plugs past the service interval, here's one data point: 210K miles. Be advised the deterioration happens quickly. I'll go with the recommendation of 105K from here on.

Plugs and coils, I thought, because the missing was so bad and so suddenly severe. (I had 1-2 coils fail on a 2001 Civic, fouled by oil leakage into the plug tubes, and replaced with some identical units taken off an Acura at a junkyard). The Fit coils are less widely used across the product line and very few Fits are available for parts in this part of the country (South). I was girding up for for the $100-$130 cost each for OEM coil.

But one step at a time: let's change the plugs and see what happens.

I chose NGK's Ruthenium HX # NGK 94279 from NAPA, cost $11.19 each after a 20% "buy 3 or more items" promotion. Rock Auto has them for $8.02.

The new plugs were the solution. No problems with the coils, at all; the car now starts and drives the way it did in 2008 when I picked it up new. The old plugs were all snug but not too difficult to break free, and with none of the loosening described by others. I used Loctite Blue 243 upon replacement and applied the OEM torque of 18 n-m (13 ft lb).

Other Tips for Honda GE 08-13 Fit Spark Plugs

• dielectric grease — I used this on a Civic once and ended up burning out a couple of coils. The grease is intended to help the insulation parts keep the voltage contained, but I suspect some grease actually got into the contacts. I skip dielectric for plug coils now.
• remove cowling on the GE 08-13 Fit — Take it off. Some report success in pulling the towers and plugs by reaching in from the side, but I have neither the anatomy nor the trust in my remote skill at breaking loose and torquing when reaching up under there. I removed the cowl with the wiper transmission still attached, but had to separate the wiper mechanism to get it back in.
• cowl clips — I recommend buying a pack of these 90602-TA0-003 ($1.64 each from wholesale Honda parts or aftermarket for $10-15 for 10-20 pieces).