I searched the crap out of this forum and reddit before joining and asking. Because of the corona we haven’t been driving. We went away for a while and hadn’t turned on the fit in months. We came back and the battery was dead. Fair enough. Charged the battery for an hour, set the charger to start, dash lights and turnover. Great job done. Or so I thought.

The key fobs for my 2012 fit no longer work. They are the real keys with the wide handle and lock, unlock and panic buttons on there. I tried the method of turn in the ignition and press lock 4 times. No luck. It is almost like the battery going to fully dead wiped something and the car no longer remembers my keys.

Does anyone have experiences or advice with this? Thank you.

 

Check the battery in your remote.....

 

Does the led light up when you press the buttons

 

To answer both of you (thanks btw), yes the red LED lights up on both keys. The buttons on one key have worked since I bought this vehicle from a friend. The other did not work when I bought the vehicle, but I replaced the battery 5 months ago and it started working fine.

 

I'm curious if the master window/lock control on your driver's door panel works the locks mechanically? When you use it, does it lock & unlock all doors and the hatch? If it works correctly, then I wonder if the car's remote control needs to be re-programmed, for whatever reason?

I did a quick check on the internet and saw, from a couple of sources, that the Fit's remote control cannot be re-programmed through a series of steps like other Hondas. Here is what they say....." There is no on-board programming procedure for Honda Fit 2009-2013. These vehicles require special equipment be connected to the vehicle to program the keyless remote. Please contact your dealer or automotive locksmith".

 

The locking mechanism will lock/unlock when the key is in the ignition and in the on position. It will not work if the key is not in the ignition. This is strange as well. Looks like I may need to contact a dealership. Curious, where did you find that info on the fit?

 

That makes sense- the door panel control works on keyed power- the control only works when you turn the key on and power up the control.

I was looking for the source on the internet that contained the quote in my earlier post, when I found this Youtube video from College Hills Honda....... https://video.search.yahoo.com/searc...6&action=click. They're actually talking in this video about using a Fit Sport remote on a base model keyless entry accessory kit, but towards the end of the video they explain how to program the Fit keyless entry function. Anyway it's worth a try.

Here's the link to the internet post that I quoted from in my earlier post: How To Program 2009-2013 Honda Fit Key Fob Step By Step| Free Instructions, Remote Cost And Information

 

Are we certain the issue is keys here? You havent ran your car in quite some time. what if a mouse got in there? if we're assuming the car got so dead that it forgot your keys, then you'll just hafta get em reprogrammed. mobile locksmith or dealer could help yuh.
​​​​​I haven't personally heard of this fault before..

 

I am almost 100% certain the issue is not the keys now. I was in there a few nights ago and noticed that the radio will not turn on on any setting and the overhead light will not turn on. The overhead could be a bulb, but the radio is clearly something electrical.

I pulled the manual and saw the the keyless and radio are on the same fuse. So i purchased a 7.5 amp fuse and replaced what i think is the correct fuse in spot 14. I also replaced 15 as it is right next to it and i wasn’t totally sure by the schematic. I was hoping to come back here and have a closed post to help others with a weird situation but neither the key nor the radio work after changing the fuses.

 

Here's a link to another thread that covers the same or similar woes.
I also looked up the fault more generally via google with focus on the radio and dome light not functioning and found many results from ford owners with a singular bad fuse. Some had modified their electrical systems, maybe replaced an alternator or swapped stereos. Is there anything you've had done that could encourage a blown fuse?
​​​​​​Though I'm insanely tired at present and may be missing something I'd like to offer a quick suggestion to review fuses once again with fingers crossed that a troublemaker didn't decide a certain wire was food. If you're not savvy with wire chasing, it may be best to see mech if fuses are all good.

 

I bought this from a friend and there appear to be some small electrical mods. I will ask him. I think I am going to take it to a car radio and electric guy I trust. I will report back.

 

Solved!!!

I wanted to make sure I came back and rounded this out for future users. Pyts, that thread solved it. In the top left of the fuse box under the steering wheel, there was an orange double fuse remover. It covered 7.5 and 10 amp fuses. I pulled it out and both were broken. At that point, I knew this would resolve it.

When I replaced them both and plugged the orange holder back into the proper spots, the car immediately started dinging and the overhead light went on. The key fob also works. Thank you SO much!

 

Glad you got it sorted. These things are always a PITA.

 

Outstanding!! I'm really glad you found the solution, though sorry it took so long. Those extra faults you listed really helped with the search. Having multiple issues occur simultaneously can be quite telling!
I hope you don't run into any more trouble, but if yuh do, we'll be here.
​​​​​​
Oh, and thanks for coming back to verify the fix! Because of that, I learned stuff, and I'm sure others will too.