I know they wear really slowly, but I drive 'spirited'....already changed the front pads 3 times, and would like to do the rear shoes just for shiggles..

Looked at them and it looks pretty complicated to change them......I've done drum brakes before but these are way more involved I think.

Any advice on doing the job.......other than one side at a time.....lol?

 

How do they appear more involved than other shoes?

Two shoes, a spring on top, the spring on bottom, an auto-tensioner in-between, a parking lever and two pins w/clips to help hold it all up. I've never changed any brake shoes until my recent replacement a few months ago... I don't see how it could be "way more involved" than any other shoe though.

 

I've only done the drums on mine once (threw them away for disc brakes) but it's exceedingly easy to get apart. Only tip I have is to get yourself some 10x1.5 (or 1.25, i dont remember) bolts to ease the removal of the drum. Mine was stuck on pretty good, two screws turned in just a few turns was more than enough to pop it off.

 

Take a picture or two before taking things apart. It's easy.

 

have the E brake disengaged.. be careful when setting in new pads. frickin.. one of the springs up top was a nightmare for me to get on and off. all screwing around with a flathead and locking needle nose pliers. when stretching the spring between the pads i had to pull so hard i compressed one of the pistons back there so much that the other shot out, spraying brake fluid.

Keep an eye on those damned pistons during reassembly. Oh, and the bishko manual has the image all jacked up for how the assembly.. is assembled. shows p brake linkage on the wrong side n such. Won't go in depth on how wrong that went. surmise to say, suddenly it was dark out.

take the pic and match it, disregard the manual. also, pick up some uh. ceramic brake lube. called for molykote 44 but HIGH TEMP (to lube where metals rub, slide n such. youll see old grease in goop form). If you use regular molykote 44 youll be way off on temp range, folks use the reg for like.. plastic on metal or plastic, light duty. You wont get molykote from anywhere quick save maybe the dealer. Napa had an equivalent that other mechs vouched for. was super blue in color I believe. get the ceramic brake part lubricant if you go aftermarket, not that ultra tacky no squeel grease trash.

I dont recall the method there for adjusting the e-brake. I know the spec is 5-7 clicks of the lever for full engagement.

If you dont overthink or overdo, its easy.
Do also recommend said bolts for removing the drum/cover.

 

I have never replaced the rear brakes on my 09 Fit with about 145K miles, checked them a few months ago and shoe thickness was still within spec.
This video shows a Civic but Fit has the same rear brake setup. One of the better Honda rear brake replacement videos I have watched.

 

Well, they look a lot more 'involved' than say a 73 Chevy C-20 .........lol

z

 

And fwiw.....if you can't add anything constructive, you could better spend your time, than trolling posts.......

z

 

Thank you Pyts!!...........I knew those springs would probably be a pain......I've got a brake tool.........and some ceramic anti seize that I'm hoping will work......it was freaking $18 or something for a brush on jar........lol

z

 

Hey.......Thanks for that Vid!!!!!

 

That's considered trolling?

Please, by all means, report it to the admins then.

 

Red 05 – Are you sure the holes in rear drum to assist in removal are threaded for 10mm bolts? My '07 Fit Sport MT holes are 8 x 1.25mm. I needed l-o-n-g bolts to get my drums off after 220K miles. 8 x 1.25 x 35mm long.

 

Yeah I'm sure. In the face of the drum it's threaded, I went maybe 3/4 of one rotation and the drum popped off the hub bearing, it doesn't take much at all.

 

Must be Honda used 8x1.25 threaded holes for the '07-'08 Fit and changed to 10mm for your '09? I found it impossible to
loosen the star adjuster wheel to relieve pressure on the shoes and the lip on the edge of drum from wear made it a bear
of a job to get the drum off. I bent the tang of the connector rod and the star wheel bolt in forcing the drum off. Dumb design.

 

Well I'm removing the foot from my mouth and admitting I got the measurement wrong, they're 8x 1.25mm bolts. I don't know where I got 10 mm from, that day is somewhat hazy. I ended that day in the hospital passing a 7mm kidney stone.

 

I just did rear brake shoes on a 2014 Fit, same issue as yourself, the while pulling the top (long) spring, the pistons kept popping out and leaked some fluid.

Got everything done, but now when I am pressing the brakes there it goes till the floor, there is no pressure and car does not stop! (Unless I repeatedly pump the brakes, then I get maybe 10-15% stopping power)

If any one has any idea what it can be, PLEASE HELP! Lol

 

When the wheel cylinder pistons popped out, you got air in the brake line. You need to bleed the brakes now.
Youtube the procedure if you're not familiar with the process.

 

I dont even remember doing the rear brakes on the fit, much less this thread. What a life.

But I do remember screwing up a brake job in exactly the way you describe. Still king of weird screw ups, and as a result i think i have your answer.

Place a piece of 2x4 under the brake pedal when you bleed 'em.. or something similar, just keep the brake from reaching the floor when depressing it and as a result letting air back in.

otherwise you can go around the car 3 or 4 times, putting multiple bottles of fluid through your system and never getting more than, as you stated, 10-20% pressure, all while secretly suspecting that your assistant friend is screwing up and not telling you.​​​​​​

 

Using something like this makes bleeding the brakes a 1 person job https://smile.amazon.com/JohnDow-Ind...-no-redirect=1

 

For 1-person brake and clutch bleeding, I've had good luck with Mityvac products.