Hello everyone. I have a 2009 Fit Sport 5 speed manual with 185,000 miles. Original owner. Still love it. My mechanic is stumped and wants $350 to pull the engine apart and diagnose. Between 3100 and 3300 rpm, there is a grinding noise from the front end. It is ONLY at this rpm. It does it while accelerating up to that point and (sometimes) while rpm's are dropping through that range (like when I put in the clutch between shifts). I do not get the noise when I put it in neutral and rev up the engine. Again, this noise ONLY occurs between 3100 and 3300 rpm's. It occurs in ALL gears and does it at all speeds. 2nd gear or 5th gear, doesn't matter. It's been in the shop three times. The first time they replaced the tensioner pulley and drive belt. Second time they welded on a loose heat shield. Both times they said it was fixed but it is not. I brought it in a third time and they are certain that it is internal to the engine but want $350 to pull apart the engine for further diagnosis. They DO hear the noise, they are totally stumped. I need the Fit experts of the world to help out!!!!!! Note: I don't believe it is the valves in need of adjustment. I remember what that sounded like (someone on this forum was super helpful in diagnosing that a few years ago at 100K!) Valves are more of a chattering noise particularly at low RPM's. Thank you!!!!!!!!

 

There are several metal heat shields near the exhaust that tend to rattle on the Fit. There are some posts identifying offending shields so that might help you.

At 185k miles you are due for another valve adjustment and not all valve issues sound the same.

At that mileage, you might look at new spark plugs also. Note the loose spark plug issues with this car as there are a lot of recent posts here (I wouldn't look at loose spark plugs for rattling sound in the first instance).

 

^ Fiting.

Based on the RPM range you indicated I suspect V-TEC may be the culprit, AKA Valves..
Its an electronically activated system, but your fault would be mechanical - grinding noise/rattle, not sure. I've got a document attached to show a procedure for testing.

The valve assumption may be incorrect, but is easier than pulling the engine. in fact, it can be done on the way to pulling the engine, since all the cowls will need to come off N such. At least its easy.

What I would like to see here is better isolation of the fault BEFORE THE ENGINE IS PULLED (unless you've left out some information that the mechanic relayed that would explain why he/she wants to go straight to yanking, tell 'em to chill, or better yet. No.)


It would be ideal if someone could raise the front end of the vehicle and SAFELY put it in gear (That means jack stands, E-brake, rear wheels chocked on both sides, and no one near the outside of the car until its verified immobile), reach problem RPMS and have someone listen at the engine bay. Listen under the car, by the oil pan and transmission. Suspect transmission/drivetrain due to symptom not manifesting while in neutral. If the sound isn't resonating from those areas, assume VTEC, but given that you're in a manual we have to consider the clutch, throw out bearing, all kinds of hogwash. The load on them may increase when the VTEC activates, and perhaps that could create your issue.

• Have you ever changed your clutch?
• Have you noticed any goof-baggery when shifting/clutch engagement & disengagement?

 

I am experiencing a very similar situation. It sounds more like a rattle to me than a grind but occurs as you say. Around 3k rpm only in gear with throttle.

I figured that is the engine under load so you get different vibrations, thus the rattle.

I tried to record the noise today I’ll try to upload if it’s any good!

ive a 2010 around 180k miles in northeast us where rusted out shields is definitely a thing

 

Thank you Fiting. Yes, my first inclination was valves too, but had been second guessing it. I am indeed due for an adjustment, but have been putting it off as long as I could (probably not the best plan) because it cost about $1k when I did it with the plugs back at 100,000 miles. The fit is my commuter car and I can run it cautiously below 3k rpm so I've been procrastinating a little too. Probably just need to bite the bullet and fork it over! Your assessment that it may be valves is reassuring frankly. Thanks a bunch
-Tim

 

Pyts, this is really helpful info!! As I mentioned just now to Fiting, I probably will go ahead and do the valves.
The mechanic had searched all over for heat shields and indeed welded one back in place. The fact that it is so specific to 3100 to 3300 rpms suggests to me that it may not be a heat shield but im really just guessing here. I've had a few welded back in place and one just fall off - and I have some rust creeping up the body near the wheel wells and some underneath as well at this point.
I'll pass the document along to my mechanic and see what he can do with it!
Thanks so much!
-Tim

 

Pyts, I forgot to answer your questions!
1. Original clutch, but it still shifts smoothly and theres no slippage in the clutch.
The mechanic used some kind of special tool that consists of multiple recording devices mounted around the car. With this, he fully believes the noise is internal to the engine. I like your idea of jack stands though! Wonder if I can get them to go for it. Unfortunately, I really don't have the space personally to do it myself... or many gear head friends that might be up for that!

 

Good to have some solidarity, punx45! It'll be a few weeks before I can get the car back in the shop, but if I learn anything new, I'll post it here! Thanks

 

These are the two threads on c.3000 RPM noise I found back in the day. You may find more with search.

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...-high-rmp.html
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...any-ideas.html