"Subwoofers" in GE8 rear doors?
#1
"Subwoofers" in GE8 rear doors?
Hey.
Will 6.5" "subwoofers" work in the GE8 rear doors for low end?
Originally my plan was this:
HU
4ch amp
Components in front doors
unplug rear speakers (nothing)
10" sealed in trunk (bridged)
but now I see that eD has a sale on their e3.6 6.5 "subwoofer". I'm considering dropping a pair into the rear doors and send only low frequencies there. It saves me from fabricating a box and taking up rear space.
Thoughts?
Will 6.5" "subwoofers" work in the GE8 rear doors for low end?
Originally my plan was this:
HU
4ch amp
Components in front doors
unplug rear speakers (nothing)
10" sealed in trunk (bridged)
but now I see that eD has a sale on their e3.6 6.5 "subwoofer". I'm considering dropping a pair into the rear doors and send only low frequencies there. It saves me from fabricating a box and taking up rear space.
Thoughts?
#2
Hey.
Will 6.5" "subwoofers" work in the GE8 rear doors for low end?
Originally my plan was this:
HU
4ch amp
Components in front doors
unplug rear speakers (nothing)
10" sealed in trunk (bridged)
but now I see that eD has a sale on their e3.6 6.5 "subwoofer". I'm considering dropping a pair into the rear doors and send only low frequencies there. It saves me from fabricating a box and taking up rear space.
Thoughts?
Will 6.5" "subwoofers" work in the GE8 rear doors for low end?
Originally my plan was this:
HU
4ch amp
Components in front doors
unplug rear speakers (nothing)
10" sealed in trunk (bridged)
but now I see that eD has a sale on their e3.6 6.5 "subwoofer". I'm considering dropping a pair into the rear doors and send only low frequencies there. It saves me from fabricating a box and taking up rear space.
Thoughts?
#4
You'd probably have better luck going with the 10" in the back. The 6.5"s would work well, however you would need to sound deaden and seal the inside of the doors for it to sound good(a couple of pics of my front stage install to give you an idea)
You certainly don't have to go as crazy as I did but you need to close it up pretty good to get any real bass response. Also adding some sound deadening to the inside of the plastic door panel is a good idea, they tend to rattle a bit.
You certainly don't have to go as crazy as I did but you need to close it up pretty good to get any real bass response. Also adding some sound deadening to the inside of the plastic door panel is a good idea, they tend to rattle a bit.
#5
damn man u went all out on that door. just throw a 10" in the back. a small box really wont take up much room. theres a good chance it will sound better, and its a lot less work. if ur fiberglassing skills are up to par make an enclosure on the right side of the trunk
#6
Wow! Nice job. I am doing this to my doors this week. Before you did this layer, did you reach through and put a layer on the sheet metal that touches the outside of the car? (so when you knock on the door, it doesn't resonate) Still deciding between a simple Dynomat "door kit", and getting a bulk pack and covering every square inch inside and out...? Also do you have any pics of where you placed the sound deadening material on the inside plastic panel? Thanks.
#7
Yeah i have the outside skin abut 75% covered, the outside is very important. I covered the inside of the plastic door panels, but you really dont have to do that, 25% coverage would be enough, just make sure you get the area around the speaker grille and a few pieces up top.
This is my back door, fronts are a little different.
This is my back door, fronts are a little different.
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