A Little OT, but worth watching. This is our first really viral video. 300k views already. It's a Smart car with our 210 blower doing a wheelie against a Shelby Mustang.

 

I would've thought the car would just spin the tires furiously... I'm surprised it had enough weight on the back end to keep it from doing just that.

 

They have a rear-mid engine layout.

 

Oh, I see.

I had been assuming it was front mounted. And until that video, thought it was front wheel drive too.

 

Anyone know offhand what size the tubes (fuel line and 3 bar MAP sensor) are?

I bought a couple of parts to add the fuel pressure sensor already, but I bought 3x 3/8" and 3x 1/2" barbed connectors that will attach to a three-way -8AN adapter that actually has a fourth connection in the middle (1/8" npt port). So, I think I'm covered in the case of the fuel line. Depending on the thickness of the tube, either could work. But there's no installing until the sensor itself gets here, otherwise I'll have to deal with gas spraying twice.

The boost pressure line, on the other hand... The connection for the AEM is quite clearly smaller than the sensor and tubing already on the supercharger. So I'm gonna need a reducer to connect the two.

In other news, i decided to run the car with zeroed out maps, replacing the previous conservative map. No surprise then that my trims went up. Anything else i need to check/change besides the F1-F8 maps?

I'm also thinking of buying a 10 & 12 pin molex connector and then just adding two wires to loop the MAF and RPM back for the ECU. This would a "poor man's" replacement of the shorting plug that I decided not to get because it was also being shipped from South Africa. It would take a month to get here, but i need the emissions test before that.

While this won't indicate whether its the wiring or the unit that's bad, it should allow me to run without my laptop for a while.

As for the AEM, I'm also thinking of adding the wiring back for a few of the features Boomslang decided to not leave wires for... Analog B for one. Still checking what else might be usable.

Oh, not sure anyone cares... But the f/ic6 has a setting that you can wire up... its a switchable 12vdc line. And in some versions of the user manual pdf, its labelled as VTEC activation (with TPS + RPM trigger). So it seems you could set it up to activate VTEC at lower RPM if you so desired.

Edit: speaking of left out features... The pinouts indicate the SMT8-L has an AFR out signal, wouldn't that mean you could modify it so that the Fit's ECU would run the car leaner or richer (depending on how you change the signal)? Who wants to add the wire?

 

So my car died out on me while at idle waiting at a stop light a few weeks back, didn't think anything of it much since no cels thrown and I was able to start it off right away and go.

Happened again to me last week as I was pulling in to parallel park and then just today as I waiting again at a stop light.

Did the wiggle test on the piggyback harness, no issues it seems there. Thinking it's the piggyback again

Don't think it's the spark plug since I was easily able to restart the car again.

Seems it only happens when I am at idle but it is random.

Can I car die out if you are running rich?

Any clues or ideas would be helpful! Thanks!! I messages Gary about this just now also.

 

Oh yeah, i just read about it yesterday... Too rich and it might not ignite. And at low idle, the car just stalls out.

I've had a few stall outs here there too. Honestly, i think unless you change the AFR signal to the ecu (adding that wire i mentioned to change what the ecu sees), all the maps are basically fighting with the ECU.

The ECU will always want to keep its AFR reading close to its ideal (assuming 14.7) and will enrichen or lean out on top of whatever the maps put. Even if you map it so the trims are close to zero, the ecu will "spot" check and adjust during closed loop, and i think thats causing a hicup during idle.

So, to adjust what i just said, its not so much fighting, but getting occasional hicups (maybe both doing too much of the same thing or opposite thing at that moment).

When i zeroed out my maps, i got less idle dips. And it definitely has a more stable take off from start.

 

Thanks Goobers! I appreciate the feedback! I'll wait and see what the Gary says but you may be on to something there!

 

many wideband AFR and gauge combos allow you to calibrate what is sent to the ecu and sends raw signal to a gauge

I believe one of the Innovations offerings do this. It looks like a brick of plastic, you have the oem style plug on one part, and above is wiring directly to the gauges


Calibrating it most likely requires an initial free-air calibration

 

Well, i'm a newbie and doing a lot of guessing, so I could very easily be wrong.

 

Occasionally the rpm at idle would drop suddenly from ~800 to ~500 and then shoot back to ~800 while sitting in traffic. My car has never stalled out and no DTC. There is no swing in air fuel ratio to overly rich from what I see on my Uego wideband o2 gauge. My suspicions are ignition coils or the IAC might be the culprit on my car with 105K miles.

 

Steven,

That is what I see sometimes on at idle, the rpm at idle from ~800-500 would suddenly drop and shoot back up. I don't get dtc when I stall out though.

I doubt it is the ignition coils on mine or the iac since my car is only a year old and barely passed a total of 11k miles. This issue only happened when I got the new piggyback. The first issue with the original piggyback was it was losing memory and therefore started throwing all these errors.

Could someone email me the original church map that we all got the first time? According to Gary, the new piggyback I got was a different map than the church map. Not sure why but I had a suspicion that the new map is too rich due to the way the car handles and the soot I see from my exhaust which I didn't get before while on the church map.

Please message me privately and I can give you my email. Thank you!

 

Yeah, I don't have any trouble codes either (full blown or pending) when it did that idle dip/stall.

I would think that if the ignition coils were the issue, it would throw a misfire trouble code. Not sure about the IAC.

Steven, did you trying saving your current configuration and adjusting your maps closer to zero? I don't know if you can completely zero out your maps with the other mods you have.

~~~~~~~~~~~~

Onto other news... I used the AEM f/ic6 and made a log on a drive and forced the high/hold RPM sputter. Loaded it up in AEMdata (not a direct process). But for the life of me, can't see what the trigger would be. Can't prove my fuel pressure theory until I get the fuel pressure sensor.

The injectors lock at 16%... even after sputtering out. Bank 1 O2 voltage barely varies much away from 2.18. Bank 2 does a kind up and down oscillation throughout the whole drive.

Throttle, MAF and MAP were all pretty steady right up to the sputter and then drop at the same time. RPM was steady too but the drop at/after limp is slower until I lifted of the peddle. Just realized that whole thing was just a hair below the 5400 VTEC threshold (assumed)... need to do another test above 5400.

The thing about the injectors... throughout the entire time I held the RPM, the injectors did vary a little, never really staying at a given percentage for more than a second. It peaked at 80 earlier in the drive (accelerated hard from stop), but only peaked at 30 when I attempted to force the sputter (peaked as the RPM was still climbing). Mostly settled between 11 and 18 while I held the RPM.

But the log shows it pegging at 16 for about a second and a half before limping and then continuing about another second afterwards. I eased off the throttle around there.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/bue95gz8e8...limp%20log.zip (the raw log, a trim of the raw log to where it limped and stf converisions of the two, 770kb unpacks to 20 mb). need to import into AEMlog to view the raw log and do the conversion to stf type file (download as part of AEMPro), can use AEMLog or AEMData to view the stf files... AEMData looks really nice and both are free to download (too bad neither can read the log file from LetRipp). If you use AEMData, you'll need to change a few settings in there as the channel names won't match the log (ie "Engine Spd" vs "Engine Speed")... changes have to be done wherever the graph/chart/gauge references channels.

 

Goobers,

Did you end up buying a new oem ecu harness to connect to your pnp aem fic harness? Or did you unsolder the smt8l harness?

 

Neither, i'm running both smt8-l and f/ic6 at the same time... But both have zero maps, so they shouldn't be doing much of anything and letting the ECU do its thing.

Replacing the wiring harness is quite a lengthy process as i will have to remove the battery, ecu, airbox and the supercharger itself to get to the wires connecting to the injectors.

Doing the unsolder isn't as bad, but still takes a bit of time. I really wanted to use the shorting plug to check the wiring before yanking it out... Now, i need to find time to unsolder the smt8-l harness.

Edit:

Oh, i did the forced limp at a higher RPM earlier... Had to do it twice because i forgot to log the first one. Oops. The limp the other day occurred after some 16 seconds in second gear (i was going 50 on a 40 mph road through a forest preserve). Today's attempts were in first gear going around 25-30 mph... I never got a chance to hold the RPM. Because 1st gear is so short, it revs up fast. I had to gradually rev up from 2500 to about 6100 RPM, took only 6 seconds according to the log, but it limped as i was trying to level out by then. This time, the logs should the MAP and MAF dropping before limp, but haven't checked to see if its normal or not.

 

Goobers,

Do you happen to know the part number of that oem
Ecu harness? And how much?

I think I found out my dying out issue. It's the harness!

I redid the wiggle test bit by bit in each section and there is one section that seemed loose and when I wiggled that just a bit the car died out. I didn't do that the first time. I only wiggled it at the ports and no issue came up.

It' seems to be where it was soldered not at the ports itself, it's where the electrical tape is covering the open wires.

Anyways I will be bringing it to my mechanic to recheck that area under the tape and likely will have to do a little more rewiring.

I really wish that sprintex had come out with a plug and play harness in the first place and save everyone all this trouble. I wonder if that plug and play harness is ready yet from sprintex? Gary any news when that will be ready? You think us pioneers can get rm for free?

 

Honda Fit Parts - Bernardi Honda Parts and Accessories

That should help future searches for OE part numbers. I did post a part number earlier, but it was for a manual trans. You have an auto, right?

32110-RP3-A50 (auto)

32110-RP3-A00 (manual)

oh, it's $313.35 (same price for either, comes with clips, ties and covers also).

It's possible that the OE harness got partially cut when they stripped the wires. I know that was definitely a worry when I did the initial install. You had to be careful to strip only the insulation and not cut the wire where it needed to be tapped into. Doing an intercept was a little easier in that, you just flat out cut the wire first.

As for the harness... that's a little bit of an iffy. If they do it like the Boomslang harness (and they probably would, since it's the simplest), it's gonna be really cramped unless you relocate the ECU a bit. I guess I didn't post it here, but I did complain about the boomslang harness a bit. It's "too long" in a sense that it takes up a lot of room and you can't simply push the OE connectors back an inch or two. But it's also too short in that you can't route the whole thing in any kind of manner to fit without worrying about snapping wires off. It's hard trying to maneuver a 6" long chunk of plastic (one end of the harness).

Fuzzy, have you hooked the piggyback to a laptop yet? Cause I wanted to see what would happen to your Fit if you used a zero tuned map, since it smoothed out idle for me.

 

Thanks for the part number and that link Goobers! Yes it's an automatic.

I have not attempted linking the piggyback to my PC yet but might do so in the near future as soon as I get this wiring issue fixed.

I think my idle issue really has to with the wiring. I wiggled it multiple times today to check that it wasn't a fluke. When I wiggled it in that particular area, the same symptoms came up where the rpm suddenly drops and goes back up.

I also noticed that when I tried to stabilize the wiring with extra tape and then I test drove it, the car felt a lot more alive and had way more oomph than before I touched them. The car accelerated much faster from idle than before the. I managed to make it throw a cel and cause the car to loose that oomph as I was driving. When it threw the cel it felt like that car was in stock form. I Managed to clear the cel. I think I put too much tape and the wires didn't like that so I took most of it off again and car ran fine like before.

Where did you buy your pnp harness? I might just go a similar route you did and not buy a new oem harness if it works as you mentioned. 500 bucks is better than 600 bucks Haha!

 

I ordered it from https://www.proimporttuners.com/part...ontroller.html. It's actually a link created by selecting a 2010 Fit, but they group 2009-2013 as they'll use the same AEM unit and wiring.

The harness is application specific... Honda Fit GE + AEM f/ic 6. So if you plan on using a different piggyback (or the current SMT8-L), it won't work without redoing the wires (at the very least the plug end with new plug that goes into the piggyback). But I suppose at least you have a patch cable to mess with. Maybe remove the AEM wiring portion and put in the appropriate wiring.

Oooh, the price went up a little. It was 496.95 when I ordered it, now its 537.95.

Oh, on their page they say unless otherwise noted it's in stock in their warehouses... except the harness got shipped directly from Boomslang. I just thought it was funny.

~~~~~

I'm not sure why having "too much" tape would be an issue... unless it's bound so tightly that circuits are crossing/interfering. In which case, you'd need to isolate them anyway (ie, MORE tape on/between the interfered/-ing wires).

When I was installing the Boomslang harness, I re-did the etape on the connections. On one, I didn't have much tape covering anything (I couldn't find my normal etape and tried to re-use the tape I took off). On another, I had a yellow tape, which I'm not really sure if its even etape (seemed very thin). The Fit seemed to like it a little bit after the fix, but I'm sure that's more placebo than anything.

I've always had good luck with just using crimped bullet connectors (hum, is the plastic heat shrink-able?) when I did past re-wiring (two car radio installs, some Ruckus mods among others)... but was always told soldering is a better method. And yet, here we are with soldered wire issues.

I feel like chopping all the wires we intercepted/tapped into and crimping on bullet connectors to make the connections. Then, if you plan it right, you can unhook the piggyback wires, and rehook OE wires back together.

 

Using the bullet connectors might be a great idea! I'll see what my mechanic says about that but he still needs to remove the tape to look under to see how much needs repairing. I'm too afraid to mess with it since I need to drive it over there still either today or tomorrow.

Wait so are you saying that if I bought the boomslang harness and aem fic 6 that I still have to do rewiring?

I thought I could just unplug/remove the SM8TL, leave the SM8TL harness there unconnected, then connect the boomslang harness as a plug and play to the oem harness and plug in the aem fic 6 and it should work? no? yes?