Wow I like it better without the inlet restrictor!!! It was worth the 5 hours of labor gutting the restrictor. My hands are little sole from the sanding. RPM climbs faster. 95 mph comes easier. It can be just a wee bit scary when driven hard shifting at red line through every gear. You gotta keep both hands on the steering wheel. Now only if I could lighten the car without loosing civility.

Gary, the inlet o-ring is a bit stretched and would not stay in place. I replaced with a 47.7 mm ID and 54.7 OD nitrile rubber o-ring from my box of o-ring assortment. It is smaller than the o-ring provided in the supercharger kit. It seems to be holding fine without any problems. What is the proper size for the inlet o-ring?

 

Steven,

Any issues with the evo x fuel pump since installation? Did you retune it? You didn't upgrade the injectors right?

 

Also my car died out me again!!! That's with the old church tune and oem airbox. It was working a good 2 weeks then last night I drove somewher for about an hour in traffic. Was only away from my car about an hour. In the parking lot when I restarted it, started chocking and died out. What I ended up doing was unplug the piggyback. The car stopped chocking and dying out on me after that. Managed to run it on limp and got myself home via side street.

My mechanic says since I was able to drive it without the piggyback, then it's definitely not the wiring.
He thinks that that the piggyback is losing its memory. Looks like I have a bad piggyback

 

I have no issue with the Evo X fuel pump. But I don’t think you really needed the 210 lph fuel flow. The fuel injectors are stock. Retune is scheduled tentative for next Saturday. My car is running on the Church Automotive map. I am going to load/play with Gary new map and see how lean it runs on my car. My AEM UEGO wideband will come in handy.

Do you have a USB cable inside the car connected to the SMT8L? Logging might help you find the cause of the problems. The Pin on the SMT8L harness isn’t well made. You could use an electrical Pin removal tool to help pull the Pin out then apply some dielectric grease. The procedure is very simple but tedious.

Lisle Pin Removal tool


I redid mines. You can see the Pin number written on the SMTL8 male plugs.

 

[IMG][/IMG]

Here is how mine looks like.

So when any of you guys had that pin loose, what exactly was happening to your car? What errors were you getting in your obd2? We're the symptoms similar like my car? Chocking and dying out? What was happening to mine was the check engine light went on, check battery, and check oil lights went on. Btw, I've never red lined my car nor did I drive it past 5k rpm.

 

Fuzzyfunk

Considering your mechanic had the car and didn't have to constantly re-input the mapping, it isn't losing its memory per se.

Though, there could still be a fault in the circuitry, inside the unit, in how it processes the information in and out.

Best way to find out is to find someone with a known working SMT8L and swap it for a while to test.

Could a pin be loose? Definitely. A lot of electronics don't play well when a wire or two isn't doing what's needed.

In short, it can wreck havoc and be no different than faulty circuitry (realistically, it IS the definition of faulty circuity too).

With the unit unplugged, the Fit might have a backup way of running the car with a LACK of information, a sort of default mode. However, it might take "garbage" data from the SMT8L (that isn't fully functional but PLUGGED IN) and attempt to use that, resulting in limp or flat out dying.

 

I was never able to get the Church map Gary provided to load. Steven let me use his recreated version that loaded fine (thanks!) . So after a day of driving I started getting a reoccurring p0139 error, secondary o2 slow response. Then the day after that I got those darn misfire codes again p0300-4. So I did the CKP relearn again. So far (2 days) no errors.

 

Goobers,

Thanks for the input. My mechanic will look into it. I'm honestly getting fed up with this whole issue. I might just take the hit in my wallet and go with boomslang plug and play harness and the AEM FIC 6.

No offense to Sprintex as I know they make quality products but if they already knew that the pins gets loose, then they should look into having a quality plug and play harness for the piggyback they provide.

 

My mechanic just got back to me, he says he can't run the car with the piggyback meaning the piggyback is losing memory.

 

Odd indeed! First time i've heard of a piggyback going senile!

Sorry! Not helping!

 

On a serious note,

it might not be a problem with the piggyback, or your wiring, or anything you did. It might be that the ECU is adjusting. Again. Even though we don't really want it to.

As the manual declares:

"This system constantly adjusts the ignition timing, reducing the amount of HC, CO and NOx produced."

 

I'm having them check if the uploaded map is still there or not. I was previously told it kept getting erased.

 

Hi, Ferdinand. I talked to Alex. He's going to check on some things in the car before sending out the new unit. A log will tell me for certain what's up. Did you happen to take any logs?

I've been noodling with the tuning over the last few days. 101 race fuel and 30% ethanol didn't do much. The power to be gained is in the retune, and an aggressive retune didn't feel like much. Since gutting the restrictor, it took 8-10 degrees more timing on the bottom and midrange with 2 degrees up top. A K&N drop in filter freed things up a bit. I expected more shenanigans up top, but nada. It gets to the top end revs quicker, but I'm not feeling a more imminent rush on top. It might be the stock exhaust holding up the show.

 

Well, that was interesting...

Got hit by limp mode while "over revving" in 2nd gear, but it was only 4-4.5 k on a side road getting to highway. Just paying too much attention to avoiding potholes and neglected to upshift to 3rd.

Checked DTCs... P0335 made sense, since i hadn't cleared it. P1157...?

Checked pending... P0300-304 was kinda expected. P1157 also showed up. Along with p0134. A total 7 codes.

While the car was still rolling along in gear, i shut it off and flipped the key back. The car resumed running "normally" (not limp, but CEL was on). Don't remember when, but checked codes again... This time p0300-0304 were gone and instead, replaced by p2238!

Once i got to work, i checked online... P0134, 1157 & 2238 all relate to either o2 sensor being bad and thinking there's too much o2 in exhaust or there really is too much o2 in exhaust. On top of that, my short trim is stuck at 0! I'm guessing the ecu's programmed reaction is to stop short trim adjustments.

Watching the ultragauge, i shut off the car and restarted twice. Both times, the o2 bank 1 display gauge read .990-1.000+. But after a few seconds would drop back down to typical o2 levels (0.140 or so at idle). And despite clearing the trouble codes, will pop them back up on restart (p1157 w/CEL, and p1157 & 2238 in pending).

Hum... Not sure what to think.

 

Does anyone else notice a stronger pull at nearly full throttle vs. full throttle?

Regarding the harnesses, the work fine until you work on them more than a few times. Long term durability under use and abuse is my main concern. I don't think they could handle a full season of racing or much time on potholed roads. The harness pins at the ECU don't hold their figure after being worked on a few times or if the box is left dangling loose. They're the correct length, spec, and fitment, but this wasn't really apparent until they were out there already. Sketchy voltage from a loose connection I don't think does them any favors. The harness that I repinned has been worked on a lot as I get up to speed on the car and dial things in. Supply chain management is the 1,000lb gorilla around here. You're at the mercy of suppliers, especially with high volumes of custom pieces. You would not hurt my feelings at all of you tried the AEM unit and harness. I do humbly apologize for the teething pains.

I played with the actual fuel mix, timing, and mixture a little more. I was looking more for the "end" of the fuel pump or extra injector. Since our car has less airflow mods, just a slight dose of ethanol or race fuel should get there, and it did. I pushed the 5th injector to 90% IDC up top on 101 with 30% ethanol.

Both fuels demanded a richer mixture in the first place. Their slower burn speeds require more spark advance to see any potential gains. You can run a regular pump tune on race gas, but not a race tune on pump gas. For 99.999% of you the pump tune is going to do fine. I would seriously consider a fuel pump, 410 injectors, AND a bigger 5th injector before going this route! Since our engine has less airflow mods to begin with, it was easier to find the limits of the fuel system.

The results on our car are pretty consistent. It's got great improvement to redline, but top end power leaves a bit to be desired. You guys with full exhaust are having all of that fun . I definitely understand the need for more fuel having run into the limits of it on a stock Fit so early. Nobody else to my knowledge has worked with race fuels in the L15A7 except spec racers.

 

The wiring is attached to the o2 signal. Most of you with bad connections are pitching codes related to the signals that we have touched or modified.

Ninja edit. Thanks, Goobers.

 

Hum, not recalling instructions dealing with o2 sensors, i went to look over the install instructions, the closest i could find was a "T" into the A/F signal wire.

There are instructions to intercept the MAF and RPM, but "T" into two "power" lines, the engine coolant and A/F signal.

 

Oops! Caught me on that one! Ninja edit . Even a sketchy connection borrowing that signal could cause problems.

A loose ground can cause all of them at once, too. We initially suspected the ground wiring, not the whole plug.

 

So, if i jam the connector with hot glue... It "should" steady the pins, right?

Now, i just need to find a day where i'm not feeling lazy/unmotivated and hopefully warm enough to pull the battery (easier than taking the cowl off), then the air box, reach down and deal with this.

Edit: to add, i kinda wonder if this issue might be completely unrelated too. The other day, i had to go down a driveway that had sunk a few inches, but the sidewalk that it crossed hadn't sunk at all. End result of me hitting something under my car (ie, damaging exhaust before o2 sensor?). In the past, with a different car, i had managed to burn a hole in the flex pipe of the exhaust.... Twice! But i'm assuming if the issue were the same, it'd loud as hell right now.

 

AGGHHH! NO!!! Not hot glue!

Dielectric grease! It's a non-conductive grease that helps hold everything in place inside the plug. Smear a healthy glob of it into the 2 harness plugs and plug it back into the SMT.

If you hit a bump and it acts up, that still leads me back to the harness or wiring having an issue. It's the same as failing the tap test.